I'm going to make a pic related >Fire pit with steel wheels I already have all the materials needed except a day not frozen over
Just wanted to run it by diy before i give myself autism from paint fumes or something.
Taking two steel wheels flipped end to end. Grind and bevel the edge. Weld on stupid high amps because my welder is rated for sheet steel only, will probably have to do three runs. Use torch or maybe cutoff wheel if im feeling ballsy to cut a decent hatch to feed wood. Bolt drum brake hub to bottom... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1087804 >Weld on stupid high amps because my welder is rated for sheet steel only, will probably have to do three runs.
one pass is probably fine for something like this. they're stamped sheet steel anyway.
>>1087813 >I wouldn't cook on it and I'd be concerned with how long it will last but other than that it sounds fine. after everythings burned off it seems like it'd be okay... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1087013 i remember when we were poor my mom bought security blankets and put them with the heat-reflecting side out on our windows in the summer. it kept it cool and also blocked a huge amount of the light. barring that, just get a thick blanket and nail it to the wall around your window.
Me and my girlfriend are looking at apartments here in The Overland Park area and near by (Close to Kansas City). Yes, we live with her mom. Anyway....
What things should I look for when looking at these shit holes? I been going over a lot of them the past few weeks and reading reviews, but most of the reviews are 6 months to a year+ old.
Next is security. I dont need people stealing my shit. I looked around at a few things online and thought about getting a few (2ish?) wifi cameras or maybe going super cheap and setting up some old android phones as wifi cameras.... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
It's just an apartment, if it seems clean and dry, look for any water leaks, just basic stuff like that.
As far as temperature goes, thats going to be dictated more by the building construction and what floor you are on. I'm in leafland, the highest floor I lived on was the 7th, and i never once turned the thermostat up, and that was a concrete building. Basements are the comfiest but then you have to worry about your shit because your on ground level.
Find a concrete building or cinder block, wood construction... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1086967 >Me and my girlfriend are looking at apartments you must consider what would happen if your girlfriend wasn't in the picture. you would say "i am looking" not "me am looking" therefore you should have said "my girlfriend and i are looking"
Looking for a miter saw but I'm a bit of a dumbass. Is a miter saw different from a compound miter saw?
Have my eye on a 10' sliding compound miter saw to build a floating deck with a pergola next summer, waiting to see if I can get a good deal on black friday. I have plans for a design on the decking, something like herringbone with alternating colored planks. I would need tight beveled cuts for that, right, or would that be an angled cut?
I have a 20 yo. Delta non slider and have been looking too. I like the makita because it has dual slides, also I think Hitachi has a dual slide. I am really wanting a Bosch with the articulated arms. I have a workbench built around the saw so the sliding is a concern. This was my basis
>>1088599 This was actually my first time doing anything electrical on a vehicle other than the stereo head; I was just extremely surprised. The actual module contacts were rusted the fuck out, hilariously, but I new-guy'd the fucking wires together (after ruining 4 butt splices) and taped them up, so we'll see how many fires start over the winter.
I have a wooden drawer that had incense stored in it for a few years. There were a bunch of papers and stuff sitting in the same drawer. Now the drawers and their contents smell heavily of incense. I can't stand the smell. I've disposed of the incense and removed, cleaned, and let the drawers and contents air out for a few weeks, but I can still smell it. Is there a way to get rid of the smell completely? If nothing else, will it go away over time now that the incense is removed?
I've got an 80 gallon air compressor similar to pic related and something is messed up. I let it run and it doesn't fill up (gauge doesn't rise from 0). The motor definitely sounds different when it runs. I found the oil cap popped off and the cover for the air filter loose. What do you think? Normally I'd think it's the check valve but now the motor sounds different.
Alright, /diy/hard woodworkers, I've at my wit's end. I've made box joints with the table router, I've made box joints with the table saw. I've make more jigs than I can count for both.
They all work to varying degrees with pine. But I can't get a decent box joint with oak. I think it's because pine is soft enough that nothing really needs to be perfect. It can be a mil off here or there, and it all just mushes together when you tap it together with a mallet. But I just can't get a decent box joint with oak. Halp?
>>1087936 >Get more accurate then. Anything more specific? I'm currently using a jig that attaches to a very accurate sled, but the "teeth" it makes aren't consistent in size. There's a tiny difference no matter what I do. With pine it's close enough, but oak is like working with hardened steel.
Hey guys, I'm driving a couple of 7-segment displays of a 2s lipo, in a nerf rapidstrike, with a max7219. The blaster fires darts with two flywheel motors, and when I rev them the max7219 sometimes gets corrupted.
I have the capacitors on the max7219, and the cable for clk/load/din is 24 AWG silicone hobby wire, it's about 15-20 CM I'd estimate to the arduino.
I tried putting capacitors on the motors, and I've currently got a .1 mf ceramic capacitor between each terminal and the motor case, plus an additional .1 mf ceramic between the... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1087879 It is a rats nest, but it doesn't corrupt unless I rev the motors, and if I use a different blaster with the same kind of motors, and rev it right next to it, it also is unaffected, so I didn't think it needed shielding.
Perhaps I need a bypass cap on the arduino battery pads also? Although I thought it already had one.
By LC filter, do you mean something like this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/RTF-LC-FILTER-3AMP-2-4S-FPV-DC-Power-Filter-Noise-Eliminate-/131557375492?hash=item1ea16e3e04:g:qvsAAOSw~gRVpmH7 I'd... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1087864 >The blaster fires darts with two flywheel motors, and when I rev them the max7219 sometimes gets corrupted. maybe during revving the battery voltage dips down below your digital electronics minimum required voltage causing glitching
I have a dimmable 6-bulb chandelier hanging in my kitchen and I recently decided to change the stock incandescent bulbs for dimmable LEDs. After I did that I noticed a loud humming sound coming from the bulbs and I thought it was because I need to install a LED compatible dimmer switch. I did that as well but still hear the humming and can't figure out what's wrong.
Would anybody know what the problem may be? Does it have something to do with my chandelier or the wiring in the house?
A temporary fix might be to just install a normal non-dimmable switch... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I need a replacement for pic related. It's maybe an inch long and goes in a plastic gearbox, the "process drive" for a Xerox Phaser 8560 laser printer. I bought a whole used unit on ebay, but the part is showing the exact same problem. So what would be the best way to replace it, 3d print it or what?
>>1087674 Could it just be replaced with a flat piece of plastic with three holes? If so, just take a strip and drill it. If not, that is if the protrusions/bumps(how do I call that?) are essential, just cut them from another strip and glue one on top of another. Or try to "machine" them. What sort of equipment do you have? This "machining" could be done with a simple dremel and file.
Anons, loser from ex soviet shithole on the air. I know its wrong board, but I hope there are some profis here who could help me. At first I wanted to start greenhouse business but it needs millions of dollars and also i am alone, even if i could get help from government. So i decided to start/open small fashion line. The main idea if that business can shoot is to make less cheaper techwear/ "stylish'' workwear aka carthartt/dickies. As a first attempt geschäft macher first I want to make a line of cheap rucksacks for schoolkids and uni students which price would be suitable for local folk/ plus play on patriotic senses. Yes alot of people here hunt for local made products. If this first attempt will be successfull i just want to make/copy brands like picrel,savotta,buschcraft brands. Is my idea without any future? Can you criticize, help with advices? Is starting with 5-6 tailors at first suitable?
As we all know, red loctite makes it so that bolts are impossible to remove without the application of heat. To do so otherwise you risk the likelihood of rounding off the corners or even twisting the head of the bolt right off.
The purpose of anaerobic threadlockers is to prevent fasteners from loosening themselves through vibration or shock, and to a lesser extent, protect threads from corrosion and galling. That being said, are there any real situations where red must be used over the blue? I can't really think of any. I have a bottle of red that I only ever... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
2 small exhaust bolts on a high performance 2-stroke, the heat causes the blue loctite I use on the other fasteners to fail and the vibrations cause the exhaust to rattle loose. I cannot think of the temp range either loctite are rated for but the red shit is the solution for me. I have also managed to loosen the bolts with minimal fuss as well.
>>1087408 >I cannot think of the temp range either loctite are rated The general-purpose blue(243) and red(268) are rated from -65F° to 360F°. There's also a high temperature blue(246) and red(272) for -65F° to 450F°, or Ultra High Temperature blue(2422) and red(2620) for -65F° to 650F°.
In related news, did you know they'll just send you whatever catalogs you ask for? Henkels is neat.
I'll preface this by telling you this: don't fucking do it. It's cool when you're in junior high, but then you grow up and realize you've got a shitty tattoo that you need to deal with. You absolutely will regret it. The only tattoos I have that I regret are the ones I did myself.
That being said, here's how I did it:
You need: A pencil (un-sharpened) A sewing needle Some thread India ink
Simply use the thread to fasten the needle to the end of the pencil, leaving about 1/2-3/4" sticking past the end of the... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1086943 Alternatively use a chopstick with preferably a crack in it to fit the pin into. Chopsticks tend to be thinner than pencils and allow for greater accuracy.
Also dude I know the feeling, made my own prison style tattoo gun out of an alarm clock, phone cable, electric toothbrush, a pen and some sweatbands. It was crude but it did the job, filled in my tattoo's nicely. I acknowledge my own design was shit in comparison to professional standards but I still felt a sense of pride. Shit was cash.
My wife and I are thinking of buying a Dyson Cinetic canister vac.
Should I bite? Everyone I know who has a Dyson swears by them. I don't want to deal with shit like bags, ongoing maintenance costs, or inferior suction/dust gathering ability. Though the vacuum mafia declares brands like Miele, Riccar and Kirby are superior, they actually cost more and require bags.
>>1086819 I have a Bissell 1646 PowerGlide Pet Vacuum. I've been very happy with it. It has some minor flaws but its also only $110 on Amazon right now, which is about $15 cheaper then when I bought it.
>>1086725 Depends on what part of detroit to be honest.
Fencing, run of the mill security systems, wifi stuff so you can record movement and check on the place from your phone. I spend a decent amount of time there and there are areas it seems like nothing would matter in, as you won't get cops anywhere near it in less than a half an hour.
Bars on windows would probably do the trip for the most part though if it's getting shit stolen that you're worried about.
Figured this would be the best place for this thread, not exactly DIY though.
I got a new job recently, where I was expecting to do marine electrical work, but the owner of the company heard that I used to run a few different cnc machines and wants me to learn how to run pic related, made in 1998.
Cast iron frame 3 axis router, 8 magazine auto tool changer, pneumatically stabilized spindle, vac table, made in 1998. 7" CRT display.
Far beyond what I used to run (8 foot by 8 foot plasma cutter table, 1 foot by 1 foot desktop mill, 3d printers, etc.).
I'm fishing for good advice and resources on learning how to control this thing.
My biggest fear is the zero point getting out of whack/tool calibrations, resulting in a head crash.
Machine will be used to cut foam core and solid carbon fiber pieces for boat building (Using an extremely interesting diamond bit).
Company uses Rhino and a custom cable to drip feed the machine, since it is so old. Apparently it was being run off of an ancient 8086 or something similar until recently.
first, CNC routers don't normally have super tight positioning tolerances. second, FANUC control is a FANUC control. as long as you are good with the CAM software (i've never used rhino) you should be okay.
is it a custom post processor or just a generic router one?
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