I am working on building an APC for airsoft/paintball. The plans I made call for sheet metal. but first I have to build the frame. This is what I have so far. And I'm asking. will an 18 horse power engine be powerful enough to pull the weight of 3 people and all the metal for the armor? thin sheets of steel. The full frame will utilize the hollow pipes you see the base frame is made out of. the crude handles used for steering are For rest driving Purposes untill I have a proper steering components. go ahead and laugh at the flames on the bicycle forks...I'll wait.......ok... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Here are the frames for the pontoons(that I am also fabricating).
This is where I need some advice. I plan to cover the frames with osb and fill the cracks with something like Spackle or plaster. The issue is that I need something to cover the entire bastard in(something hard, like a liquid plastic type material), so that it creates a water tight seal.
Everyone I ask for advice from say I should fiberglass it, however that defeats the purpose because it greatly exceeds my budget. I was thinking polyurethane but my father says it might not be water tight, what do... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Don't let this deter you from trying, but this shit looks jank as fuck. Your nails/screws are going to be gone in a year unless they're stainless or brass. If you're aiming for dirt-cheap ghetto chic I say look up wooden ship building techniques for getting the seal right. This is something you really should have researched before you started just tacking shit together, though.
>>1002454 > kids are capable of more than that. No they aren't. The best they will come up with by themselves is gluing junk together. You will need to give them guidance for some of them to get past that level, and from what you're saying it looks like nobody but you has those skills (even then your skills don't seem to be too great since you don't even get 3D printing). The question is do you have the time?
>>1002454 So this is for an elementary school? Arent the oldest kids there like 3rd graders?
Regardless, if you want to run a 3D printer dont buy a makerbot. Lulzbots sell to a lot of schools ive heard, and youll be a lot better off.
When you buy a decent prebuilt printer like the Lulzbot, you will have decent software and references for print settings which makes printing easier. The only maintenance you will need to do is clean the occasional print head jam, or level the bed. Easy stuff.
There are different... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1002482 It's K-5. The 4th and 5th graders would be able to handle this I think, or at least the magnet program kids would (I think roughly 50% of the student body?)
Thanks for the advice on the printer. I'm sure there's a bunch of resources for pre-made designs, right? Any value in just letting students print something (no modeling) to be exposed to the concept at this level?
If it's super important, I usually pick through until I find the straightest wood I can. Some places will have pre-picked over lumber where you can pay a little extra to get mostly straight wood without having to sift through the whole pile.
Hey /diy/, I'm looking for anyone who has some boatbuilding experience.
This past weekend I bought a 30-year-old 15' bass boat in pretty bad shape with the intention of making it last at least a few years before I decide if I want to step up to something nicer (I'm new to boating and fishing). Aside from a lot of superficial problems, a good section of the boat's floor is fucked up from multiple years of water. I'm currently ripping it all out of the destroyed plywood and foam and trying to figure out what I do next.
What's the best... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1001412 The boat is a 1985 FiberKing Bomber. I literally just started ripping the floor/wood/foam out today. It's interesting because only the wood from the stern to slightly in front of the cockpit; at a certain point, everything moving forward is totally fine.
Hey /diy/. I don't normally drop by here, but I've got a bit of a conundrum, and I figured who better to help than the faceless masses of 4chan?
So, I go through about two gallons of milk a week, and I have to imagine there's something better to be done with the jugs than just tossing them out. However, Google's not giving me a lot to go on. I live alone in a tiny studio apartment. I don;t have a garden, I don't have a workshop, and I definitely don;t have kids to entertain with a small, misshapen igloo. Any ideas as to how I can put these things... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1001298 if you have a refigerator in the garage or basement, or even your main one. You fill them up like 3/4 the way with a drop or two of soap in them and freeze them.
The idea is that it not only takes up dead space that would otherwise disappear when you open your frig, but also since it will be cool it will cause it to kick on less to maintain temp. Works best in ones in the garage where you have to deal with hot summers.
So I have this idea since I love coffee so much. I want to make a brewer that either:
A) Brews from the top of my cup, straight into the cup (think like a flat disc that sits on top of my cup, with the brewing components above), but maybe a K-cup size filter apparatus can sit below the top of the cup, underneath the disc like base.
B) Far less cool, but maybe something that brews from the center console, and pumps to the cup in the cup holder
Both would plug into the outlet in the car (usb).
Much more interested in option one, but this would be my... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1005416 Sure. Works for Corona when they make bottles. Why didn't I think of that.
In all seriousness though, I was thinking of printing on to glossy photo paper and using heat to transfer the design to a glass bottle, just like making a pcb, but I wonder what kind of special ink I would need to print with.
Maybe just silkscreen to the bottle instead? Maybe treat the area with glass etching acid first?
I was going to use the track cutter but a 28 inch would have warped the metal so I cut squiggles into it 7 inches at a time and cooled it in our dunk tank. After cutting I used and angle grinder to polish it up.
I'm planning on using furniture grade PVC to build a shelf/ cargo storage frame in the back of a jeep-type vehicle. Unsure of what size to use, and if 1/2" will be sufficient. Needs to support 40 lbs. minimum. Maximum horizontal pipe length around 2 feet (but can make shorter if structurally necessary). Any experience?
>>1005981 >in the back of a jeep just make it out of steel extrusions and weld it together. or buy a shelving system http://www.katshelving.com.au/images/stories/katshelving/frontslider/Van-Side.jpg
or just use totes. if you plan to store shit permanently, make sure its tied down because you dont want a bolt flying through your head at 100km/h when you rapidly brake or whatever. dont forget cars vibrate and experience frequent dynamic loads from bounding around constantly. that system... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1005984 It's a very low HP suzuki 4x4. Weight is a big concern. It's mostly to put the dog bed on (he's 25 lbs), and to give us more room underneath for plastic totes, camping gear, fishing poles, etc. Plan on mounting it to the existing hardware for the rear seat and rear seat belts (removed). Hoping the PVC will give some flex for offroading with pupper.
>furniture grade pvc I lold, but if you lurk here you should know by now the only furniture grade pipe is black iron.
Really though, half inch might be fine, I'd do 3/4 just to be sure. It's probably not a big deal at all, but if you're going to keep a dog by it is would use cpvc, that's what's used for water supply because pvc supposedly releases some chemical or something when wet that could potentially be harmful. I never looked into it but I only use cpvc for my supply lines anyways. My only thought is dogs... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Hey broskis. Was hoping to find some general contractors to help me put an estimate to what I want to do. Not having amazing luck finding anything nearby so quickly.
Found an amazing underdeveloped property going for super cheap so trying to get the ball rolling fast.
Looking at making a house out of shipping containers. 3 40'x8'x9.5' containers. Mocked up a rough(really rough) draft on paint of what I want. Would like to use the exterior walls plain but take out the inside walls, possible weld?(not sure how to best do it) them together somehow.... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
For your sake, just delete this thread. It's going to get shitposted into oblivion. I promise you. You will not get any useful information, bingo sheets will be posted, and people will post images of arduinos, crab meat, lawnmowers, and so on.
Hey /dyi/, google couldn't help me so I come seeking your wisdom. I have a vest thats made of 100 percent cotton and it curls up on the edges of the vest, how can I prevent that? Tried ironing in out but that only made it worse, Im open to all advice, thank you before hand!
For those of you who don't know, I'm the anon who was initially looking for some type of rigid chain to extend straight out when unrolled. Further research and some experiments with tape measure blades now lead me towards using 1095 spring steel. In the 60's, NASA researched and developed prototype sand working models of basically the same thing I'm trying to design. The principal is that a bi-stable material (can maintain two rigid structures) can be rolled into a spool, and upon exiting the spool it rolls into a stronger cylindrical shape.
So does this mean that my work comes to an end? Hell no. There is no design that can effectively extend 5-8m in all directions. Also, few designs can transport more than 30 pounds fully extended. And last but not least the pull strength is almost never accounted for except in a few NASA prototypes/Working models, (but no gravity lol).
The picture is a mockup design and will most likely not be the final product. What makes this design different from the rest is the addition of a children's toy, a slinky. The slinky is a low torque tension spring that will be anchored to the barrel as well as the hook end of the device. As the spring steel is unwound and bent into a cylindrical shape, it will pass through the barrel where it is already preset to be in a cylinder. It will also be preset into the retracted tension spring and a cylindrical end cap as it's fed out. As the steel cylinder gets longer, the spring will automatically stretch and fill in the gaps creating reinforcement bands around the tube. When a tube or pipe bents, the width becomes wider at the failure point. If you give the cylindrical tape no room to unravel, bend or kink, it has no choice but to maintain it's shape and rigidity. The slinky can also be tightened around the tube by twisting the anchor end.
So I bought some spring steel and slinkies of various sizes. I got the steel today and I think it's going to be too thick to form in a tube. I want the tube to be 1 inch in diameter, so I bought some .018 inch thick steel at 4 inches wide so I get a nice curl. The problem is that shit is tough! I think I need .010, but I don't know shit about spring steel. That leads me to why I'm here, I have run into a few other problems as well. Questions:
1. What thickness of 1095 blue tempered steel... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1005698 read my post, it goes into the mechanics of it in great detail. The spring supports the tape so that it can't bow out and kink. The blue thing connected to the gears is the spool of spring steel connected to a shaft that is connected to the gears. Again it's not the final design. Purpose: So many I can't count, here's a few for example; lighter and stronger telescoping poles, control arms, assembly belts, lifts grappling hook to name a few.
I took a shitty airsoft gun and used it like one of those. All you have to do is make a wad out of some paper towel or someshit and shove it down the barrel before the salt, and another one after if you don't want it to fall out. Or just make the wads and salt as one cartridge. Worked on wasps.
I already have babby's first electric powered Karcher, but I'm thinking of just buying a good Gas engine 4000psi machine, one of those 270gal/1000liter caged water tanks and a pickup truck, and cleaning driveways and houses and such.
I know this is quite a common business in America or England but I've never seen anyone doing it where I live. If anyone has pressure washing experience they'd like to share I'd really appreciate it.
>>1005541 I have done it to make cash on the side. I did my sister in laws drive way for free and put a sign in her yard. I was busy the next 3 weekends. Her neighborhood is 500k plus homes. I charged 150 for the driveway and sidewalks and an additional 75 for back patio depending on size. Made about 2500...all cash
>>1005545 Thats pretty encouraging because my marketing plan is a lot like your experience. Only the wealthy neighborhoods have paved driveways here, so I'm going to drop leaflets in their mailbox and hope someone bites. Then when I'm in the neighborhood, they'll hopefully see my truck and will want their house washed too.
I definitely can't charge as much as you though. I'm still deciding between charging a minimum of €70 for the first hour, then €25/hr. Or something like €5... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I'm assuming this counts as DIY, so I got a job over the summer being an electricians helper, so I'm gonna need to know what to expect during my employment. it's 10/hr for 10hr a day, sometimes 6-7 days a week. I'm in still in high school (18 tho) so this is big money for me. I don't wanna screw it up
>>1005398 expect a lot of 'get me this' and 'bring me that' and 'we're outta the other stuff so i need you to run to the hardware store and get some more' and 'go down to the truck and lug another spool of wire' ... basically what >>1005399 said.
>don't wanna screw it up Then learn shit while you work. Show initiative. If you prove to the boss that you want to expand your skillset, you might... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Hey /diy/ I could use some ingenuity. There's a decently steep slope around the back of my parents house that they want to stabilize/terrace so as to have a nice little walkup patio for them and all their old friends.
Considering the steepness of the hill and how much rain the area gets (a lot) and the fact that the soil is primarily clay with some silt, I'm a little nervous about destabilization and sliding.
I talked to an engineer friend who suggested pic related, geogrids. Layer them between the dirt and they help stabilize it and make it a hell... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1005339 easiest solution is just to plant it. Look up plants for erosion control or slope stabilization. Anything else is going to require permitting/money. The tallest retaining wall you can build in most areas is 3ft high, and its going to cost exponentially more once the wall gets higher than that. If you want to terrace and maintain code it needs to be done like pic related, but its going to require digging and back filling. Often times taller walls also require railings so people dont fall but idk if that even applies... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1005056 I prefer a very big L shaped desk, because I use my desk for lots of shit. So I guess I have to make it very big. Unless that somehow is twice as expensive as a normal one, then I could maybe change some furniture so I just have my 2 monitors and some electronic devises on it.
So I think it will need to be able to lift maybe 10 or 20kgs at a minimum, but preferably more.
Of course just with a press of a button, one to go up in height one to go down in height. And something that it automaticly stops so... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1005057 You would need a motor to move it and some sort of raising system to lift it. Consider looking at the system treadmills use to incline and expanding on it so the range is greater. They can incline with a 200lb+ person so weight isn't an issue
You could also use something like a rack and pinion set or just a hydraulic pump.
If you're not opposed to actually doing the lifting manually you could use gas springs to offset the weight so you would only be lifting a fraction of the weight. I've... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I hate to be the 'Buy It Yourself' guy. But some things are really just best to buy instead of fix. Think about the cost to longevity of something, say you fix these jeans, patch them up, they are already going to be weakened and will need constant repairs, you'll patch one hole and another will spring up and soon you'll be wearing nothing but patches, buy a new pair and it will last you months if not longer (don't know what you're doing to wear... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1004550 i see your point. its more of knowledge id just liek to have in general.
plus the pair of pants in question is already mondo reinforced in the areas i need it to be (crotch), and the only places where its compromising is in the weaker areas, liek the ass, and at the bottoms of the pocket areas. if i can spend $5, rather than $20+, thatd also be nice.
i also disagree with buy cheap pants, especially since im outdoors a vast majority of the time, but again i understand where youre coming from.
A recent storm had knocked down an oak tree, and someone had chainsawed it up and left big logs by the dumpster.
I picked them up and immediately crosscut them into sections, the ripped them as close to the pith as possible. I want to turn them some day, but until then, I need to seal the end grain to let the wood dry as slowly as possible to minimize checks and splits.
People seem to like a certain product called Anchorseal for this purpose but I ain't buying any more chemicals until I use up the stuff I already have. I don't even have candles to cap... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
The poly should be ok, as is something like enamel paint or something similar like glues- epoxy, wood glue etc. What you want is the ends drying at the same rate as the rest of the mass, so some permeability is ok in that regard
>>1003100 Oil-based polyurethane absorbs into end grain rather well, so getting a seal would take several coats. I'd just get paraffin, but paint should build up better than polyurethane. Otherwise... maybe silicone caulk?
Wanted to pick your guys brains on building a cabin out in the boonies. Idea is buy 5 acres near a lake, build a 2 bed 1 bath cabin, well, septic, and solar power. Id like to do as much as i can of that. Im an electrician now but was a framer for a short time. Main questions are: >can it be built for less than 50k? >are there any shortcuts like building plans for sale with parts lists? >what bits are best left to the pros?
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