You guys know how its bad for lithium batterys to stay at 100%.
Most people leave they're laptops plugged in or its a hassle to keep plugging it in and out, also just taking the battery out can be bad in case of a power outtage you loose the date.
Why isn't there a thing to detect current draw and cut power when it reaches a certain draw ? (li ion current draw tapers off near full charge, so it's likely to be able to detect battery %/capacity this way and cut it at 80% or so lets say)
Does noone need this or don't they even know they need it ?
>>907475 It's fine for lithium batteries to stay at 100%. The only thing that effects lithium is the actual number of charge cycles. Good batteries track this and will report this. Your battery capacity almost certainty isn't going down outside of the expected further. I just replaced my Lenovo at 1800 cycles. It had gone from 7 hours to 7 minutes.
Has anyone here ever looked into building a power plant for home use? I am looking into building either a bio diesel generator, steam generator or something in that order. Has anyone looked into or built anything like this?
I've got some questions about casting silicone and urethane. This can be a general too if you so wish.
So I'm making a small creature for a scupture, that I'd like to cast as a single part. Preferably in skinlike silicone.
>What would be a good sculpting medium if I want to take a urethane mold from it? >how would you deal with casting limbs in a complex pose (my creature is supposed to be in a fetal position, and while it would be much easier to cast laying flat, I don't know how I'd... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
If I were just building a silicone model, I would cast a wire armature in to make the thing poseable... but I hope to work my way up to casting some light animatronics into the thing--just a servo or two to make it twitch a limb.
I'm pretty sure u need to make model or texture of exactly you would like it to look like then you need to make a cast of that with silicone just make a wooden box to fit your model in to then pour in the silicone I know at my work we use a chamber and vaccume pump to get the air out of the silicone it makes it more dense therefor lasting longer then after its done curing take the silicone out of the box and carefully cut in half making sure to bypass the sculpture inside after that you have your mold I would use latex for skin and silicone for textures
I want to add a weed whacker engine to my bike, saw the above photo and wondered what the diy community thought of attaching a pulley directly to the spokes in a similar fashion to how that sprocket is attached. Please ignore my double post, my fingers are too fat for this phone
>>907347 I didn't think you could OP without text, are you a wizard?
Meanwhile, why belts? Unless you're planning to put the engine on a pivot so it can be tensioned onto and off the pulley to disengage drive, chain drive using the snippers centrifugal clutch should be good enough.
>>907347 You can do that. Just be aware of the torque of your engine or it'll rip the spokes out of their place or bend them at least.
The way it's attached in your picture is usually done with weak engines, that are more like helper in wind, uphill or work as slow sustainer when you're already at speed. If your engine can skid the bicycle from standstill, under your whole weight, the drive-train should be quite robust.
>>907280 if you're going to use fluxcore for some reason, lincoln NR211-MP is worth the expense over generic white boxed wire, even if you're in europe and paying $20/lb for it.
more generally: turning the power up to 'lightsaber' and laying another pass over the top of a bad weld is WRONG. grind that shit out to base metal and start over.
sparks and spatter fly everywhere and can ignite dry wood on contact and melt through 1/4" of plastic before they cool down, so move all your oily rags,... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>907253 How much? You'll have a very, very hard time matching the leg to the others, and if you don't it will look like shit. Plus, doing felt yourself will look like shit, and taking a wild guess, I'd bet pool table felt is retarded expensive.
>>907253 Felt is easy as fuck to do if yd just the bed and not the rails. If you can repair the leg with wood glue and clamping/staining I would say go for it. But I'm a pool junkie and love to fix pool tables. If it's not an actual slate pool table (3 piece slate, or 1 piece for a bar top pool table) then it's shit and will warp on you
Hi /diy/ I don't usually go out of my boards asking for help, but I tried googling and I found nothing. Sorry if this is shitposting.
My problem is simple, I dismantled a Coin Mechanism of a Gumball machine and I can't rearrange it. I THINK I have all the small pieces, but I can search agian, I made it jump when I took it out the last gear, know nothing about the inside.
I would like to ask to help to assemble it again making it turn, disposing bgums, etc. . .I would like to make it work again.
This is the pieces I have, and what I want to assemble,... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>907275 To be clear, I mean a clear shot of the part on the left, and the other side of the part in the blue circle. All I need is to see where the spring and the round end of the coin detect lever sits, we'll be in business from that point.
I'm looking for a bit of advice. I'm looking to make a chess set a bit like the one in the picture, but out of wood. I just wanted to see what would be the best wood to use, preferably lighter and darker woods obviously. Also what do you reckon the whole project would cost?
>>907180 Change the wiring. Make sure its rated for the amount of amps you are going to put through it to power the horn its going to of you will melt it or the wires going to it and possible start a fire.
Looking to make small cubes with plexiglass and maybe something else at the edges. The purpose would be to hold insects (I would drill some holes in the sides) and I can't really find anything like this because all the ones online are curved or for plants. How hard would it be to make something like a 4-5 inch cube with thin plexiglass walls and removable top? How much would it cost per cube?
Pic is about what I expect it should look like, but I am also unsure how to make the removable top, maybe a hinge? Any suggestions would help!
1/4" Acrylic sheet is very strong. PV Glue is like a chemical weld that melts the sheets together. Makes a strong joint. If you can get your pieces laser cut then they will be nice square and edges ready to glue cleanly.
>>907129 Shouldn't be hard. If you don't care about identical ones, you could get a piece and curve it into a square with a heatgun (or pot of boiling water if you have a big enough pot) and then silicone the bottom on and silicone a top on. Cut a square out of top, attach it with hinge, pull handle, and stops. Use non-mildew resistant regardless. Poisons and shit.
a thrift store will have all kinds of boxes and glassware in the decoration section cheap. i got this kind of flask for 25 cents to use as a case for a Raspberry Pi. in the toys section, you will occasionally find insect observation kits with a box, magnifier, net, etc, for a couple of bucks.
>>907079 Fun gimick for hardware reviewers. Not really practical for people.
You still need a radiator. The performance gain the reviewers see is from the huge sink it is. Once its at capacity its not much better than water cooling.
You're also not running up against any sort of performance wall with air cooled boards any more. This might have a use if you need to get one more .1v out of your cpucore to get another 200mhz. Realistically that's not a worthwhile gain and you could probably get it by just... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>907093 I did it. It was cool. Had a small fish tank with a rounded front sitting around. The oil was very expensive, though. Wouldn't do it again, although it cooled the components fairly well. It's too risky with kids, and I can't fathom submerging expensive parts in it.
Started reading up on electronics about a month ago, reading a couple books that I got off tpb. I'm currently working on a battery tester, using a ИB-15 lamp that I found with some scrap electronics (pic related). However, I can't make heads nor tails of how to actually get the bulb to start glowing. The best info that I've come across is this page: http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_iv-15.html, but like I said, I can't figure out how to translate this into an actual circuit. Any explanations would be awesome. I've already tried googling the terms... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>906869 Does this tube not require a ground then? I understand that ИB-15 is used in logic circuits, but I've got a generic LED stuck in my head when I try to light it up, with a positive lead and a lead going to ground/negative
>>906782 Make her a boyfriend who pays enough attention to her to know what she is into, so should he choose to, he can make her a gift off the cuff without needing to ask a board full of strangers what his girlfriend (who none of the strangers know) would like.
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