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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 102. page
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File: 20160603_191611-1.jpg (3 MB, 2063x2424) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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So I just cut my grass and I want to make it look nice. I'm going to go to Lowe's and buy some fertilizer/grass feed to clear up some dead spots, but I have an issue.
There are holes like pic related scattered in my backyard, but I'm not sure what they are from. I poured some water out of the hose into one of them to see how far it went down and I didn't manage to overflow it.
I googled a little and I think they might be voles or something. I had a problem with burrowing wasps last year but I don't think this is them. I was wondering if somebody...
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Hmmmmmmmmmm strange, dank, deep, and dark holes you say?

Stick your dick in it.
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another pic

maybe another time
Would help if you mentioned which country.

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hello /diy/
im trying to make leather pouch, but well, i dont know

should i cut it to make better shape or just take circle and cut holes around?
or in best case, do any of you have pettern icould use? please :)

also, what thread for stitching would you suggest my to use? same thin rope or go and buy something leather origin?
11 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
Synthetic sinew is great for sewing leather.

For leather pattern, it's really straight forward. You can either just cut a large circle and use some leather cord to synch it up, or get more elaborate and cut/sew the leather.
Your call, what's the end goal? How much effort do you want to put into it?
cinch not synch
A few tips for you to save you some hassle in stitching and various other things. I don't know what your experience level is, so no insult intended if this is painfully obvious.
* Lay out the placement of your holes beforehand, then use an awl (or roofing nail) to pre-punch them.

*Since you'll need to flip the pouch inside out after sewing, definitely make sure to make the opening is a little larger than you think it needs to be. Leather can be a bitch to try and reverse in this way.

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File: 20160602_194126-1.jpg (3 MB, 2809x1780) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Didn't see anywhere else appropriate, so here we are.

Pic related is louder than God's revolver, and I have hella sensitive ears. I already have tinnitus from being in HS marching band, and the ENT I go to says I gotta stop wearing earplugs.
So that leaves me with over-ear style stuff.
I'm currently using some 20 dollar 3M ones, the red ones you see everywhere, but they only have a 21db noise reduction, which apparently isn't enough.
Anyone have any suggestions? Cost isn't really an issue, it's going on my tool bill.
13 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
Also open to ear plugs suggestions, really. ENT said not to put anything bigger than your elbow on tour ear but he can fuck himself.
2 seconds on google


28db nrr. That's massive
double up, plugs and exterior ear wear.

A couple notes:
1. if your leaving your mouth open, you can damage your hearing because of the Eustachian tube and thin skin and membrane near your auditory system
2. Outer ear wear should cup the bone that sticks out of your skull slightly behind your ear. I forget its name right now, but it can transfer sound into your inner ear and cause damage. They even make some hearing aids that are drilled into this bone, because of its harmonic abilities to transfer noise...
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My family owns a pc repair shop and someone dropped off a dead Korean monitor. 2560x1600 resolution, 30 inch. I cracked it open to try and fix it, and after a while I finally found what appears to be a blown resistor?

I'm looking for a heatgun so I can replace it, but I have no idea what the value of the resistor is.
Beside it, it says 24v 403, I'm assuming that means it's 24 volts, and that 403 is the identifier for the resistance of the resistor?

Pic related, thanks in advance for any help.
45 replies and 14 images submitted. Click here to view.
Here's a pic with a torch instead of flash, it looks clearer but has shadows.
That looks like an inductor not a resistor(note the L403). Also usually resistors in SMD packages have their resistance printed on top. The best thing to do right now is to find a service manual that actually has a schematic in it and find the exact value of this part. Failing that you could remove it and measure but if it has really blown you won't get something meaningful.
Since it's L403, it's much more likely a ferrite bead.
Ferrite beads generally have no markings, but the replacement isn't probably critical and even a piece of wire is likely to work (even if it won't fulfill the legal requirements for emissions).

The thing is that ferrite beads do not fail on their own. You either have a short circuit downstream or the stuff before the bead is fucked.

File: cnc simulator.png (34 KB, 428x73) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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does anyone here know some FANUC or have experience with CNCsimulator that can help me troubleshoot problems with a program?
21 replies and 5 images submitted. Click here to view.
There's a lot of cnc people here, stick around though they tend to have jobs and not post until the weekend
post your fanuc issues
What's up?

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How do I keep motivated? I have done the electrical, insulation, tore our and redid the kitchen, plumbing, but this fucking drywall is killing me. It's my first time and after my first total retarded wall it isnt nearly as bad, but it takes so fucking long and then you have to sand and sand I just want to fucking leave it.

Holy shit I am never doing this again.
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Just think about the money you're saving and the result in the awesome.
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God I guess. Looking at what people charge for this its crazy. The kitchen actually almost looks decent, but I have to do the flooring still, but trying to get all the walls done before I bother with floor and trim because of this little shit.

Trying to build a fucking 400 liner foot fence at the same time as well. Holy shit its like so many projects I just want to shitpost and relax a while ;w;
I'm in the same boat, replacing old shitty plasterboard and wood sheating. I have a few shit spots and have to take my time in some areas with cardboard shims and a 12 pack. It looks to me like you're doing too many cuts and need to just slow down and fill larger areas as you're going to have to do a shitload of taping as such.

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Hey guys,

I'm making a coil gun. I plan to start with two stages powered with capacitors. Any tips for me? Where should i look for wire? (eurofag here)
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>eurofag here
>two stages powered with capacitors
timing will be a real pain.
My plan is to use arduino and photoresistors or phototransistors placed in the middle of each coil. I think it should work.

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Any cheap isolation tips? Want to play drums in there, got acoustic insulation foam and was thinking of drywalling and acoustic caulking. Maybe 3 inch styrofoam on the outside and just put some stucco mud on it
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>its another rape dungeon thread
well technically the dungeon isn't underground yet so it's just a rape shed.
Put the lotion in teh basket!

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Look, I don't give a shit if you won't buy anything that isn't branded "Snap-On" or "Festool" but one cannot deny there are some real gems lurking among the aisles at Harbor Freight for stupid cheap.

What are some things you've picked up from /diy/'s favorite store that represent solid performance/value?

I will start.
Their 8-piece HSS Windsor Design lathe tools are literally rebadged (highly regarded) PSI woodturning tool starting kit. Thought it's the same price as Amazon, you can combine it the 20% off coupon.

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3/8" Spot Weld Drill - works great, did at least 40 spot welds on a toyota, still sharp (only one side used too )

Carbide Drill Assortment - resharpened pcb bits, work great as long as you get the sizes you need.
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HF airless paint sprayer: worked perfectly, everything was serviable, painted my whole house in like 3 hrs. 260$ bux?
Electric pole saw: works perfectly.80$ Don't even need my gas chainsaw anymore.
Most of their quick grip style and assorted clamps work just fine as well.
50$ dado stack
2$ 100 security bit set
Also, their chisels and other misc. woodworking tools are cheap as fuck and you can't go wrong.

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Hey /diy/.

I need some tips on how to scavage this piece of tree trunk, that is still hatched to the ground bu it's roots.

The tree is a "Agave Americana" (i'll post a pic in a bit) that someone cut to make a didgeridoo. I had the idea to use this leftover piece to make a resonance box for a stringed instrument. But turns out that trees aren't very easy to pull off the ground... Although I can get it to wiggle quite a bit.

Any tips? I don't really have a machete that I can use... I do have a saw though.
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Here's a closer look. Sorry, the pics were taken in a bit of a rush.

Also I should mention that electric tools that produce a lot of noise are out of question.
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Here's what the trees look like fully grown.
Tie it with a towing strap and rip it out of the ground. This is your only option if you can't use power tools (the fuck?).

Where I can find the the same system of a knife switch ( pic related ) but has a potentiometer ( for speed control )
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>Where I can find the the same system of a knife switch ( pic related ) but has a potentiometer ( for speed control )
You won't find any potentiometer that can handle 30 amps. Potentiometers are low-watt devices (usually <2 watts or so, most are less than half a watt) that you apply a low voltage to, and then you use that low voltage or current output to control a power-dividing circuit.

You could use a rheostat.
A rheostat works just like a potentiometer (it's...
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it's called a chadburn

and you shouldn't switch engine power directly with a potentiometer. use the potentiometer to control the power circuit.
A Chadburn is a signalling device, not a control device, and not a potentiometer. The linked article constrasts an EOT with a remote throttle.


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Okay /diy/, longtime reader, first time poster. First of all, forgive my non-standard MS Paint wiring diagram. I've been Googling my ass off to learn about how to make circuits, and I feel like I've learned just enough to get myself hurt or damage my car, so I'm coming to you to check my work and tell me how wrong I am.

I want to add ambient footwell lighting to my car. I have four LED strips that I will wire in parallel. Each has 15 LEDs, for a total of 60--I'm not sure if they're 5050 or 3528, but the difference shouldn't be important....
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In case the wiring diagram doesn't make it clear, I'm accomplishing the "always on" by running the negative side of the switch's "On" output straight to ground, bypassing the factory dome switch. When I do this, if I want the lights dimmer, I know I need to give them less current, so what kind of resistor do I need to put in to accomplish this? I figured a 10 Ohm resistor would add 10 Ohms of resistance, effectively doubling the resistance of the circuit by my figuring, and therefore making the lights half as bright.

I know only enough...
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I'll be bumping with cute animals and additional questions. Stuff like: Is parallel the way to go for connecting the strips together? I've heard LEDs actually cause a voltage drop, so I figured wiring them in series would make them progressively dimmer and not matching.

I'll also add that I have a multimeter, and only a very rudimentary knowledge of how to use it.
i cant says YES or NO coz the switch is a mystery. you need to redraw it with a standard notation so we can tell what connects to what inside the switch. use either the left or right representation in the pic provided. personally i prefer the right coz you can follow the current flow, instead of it being a black box.

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Any tips on growing produce such as potatoes?
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Rich soil with good drainage, and you need potatoes to start potatoes.
You can grow stuff in bags if you don't want to dig up your yard or you don't have much in the way of open ground, they are a kind of plastic fabric and with care can be reused for a few years, you can let your seed potatoes "bud" on a window sill and then plant them out, compost mixed with some well rotted manure (60 - 40 mix) will give them plenty of food to get on with, plant the seed potatoes in a half full bag then as the plants grow almost cover them over (leave a few leaves poking out) to...
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dig a little hole and put potato in it.

when the plant appears and grows some, pile good loose soil around the plant. leaving the top half the plant exposed. Keep repeating this every few days. Till your mound gets about a foot and half or two feet high.

when the plant above ground dies. tear the mound apart to get potatoes.

Are tattoos DIYable?
20 replies and 9 images submitted. Click here to view.
If you want them to look like shit
of course, they do it in prison
Sure just buy a tattoo engine on amazon and go ahead. You may want to practice on a pork-belly or a drunk friend first.

File: Raaco Parts Cabinet.jpg (148 KB, 600x600) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Parts Organizer Advice Needed!!

What do you use for parts storage/organization?

I'm about to be making my first massive order of electronic components, which will likely come out to around 200 different types of components in various quantities.

Considering buying pic-related parts organizer. I've got a full-size Husky toolbox that could do the trick, if I used organizers.


Could it be easier and more cost-friendly to make my own pic-related type out of pine or oak with glass insert style panes?

Just needing some advice,...
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10 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
I use those for my components. I dont know how much shit you ordered but definitely buy enough cabinets so you can keep your different values organized. Keeping your resistors and shit organized takes up a lot of drawers. You're also gonna want something bigger to store whatever big shit you accumulate, batteries, power supplies, cords, wire, etc. Save the husky box for tools. A parts organizer like the one in your pic is like fifteen bucks at harbor freight so I don't think you're gonna get a better solution for less.

Whatever organizer you get, ensure that the "ceilings" of the drawers is solid. That is to say, completely enclosed. I like the organizers I have on the basis that they were cheap (like $20 for 64 2x5.5" drawers), but the cutouts in the drawer slots that were put in to save material means that things can get caught/stuck after you close the drawer. Not to mention the fact that if I ever knock the thing over (god forbid), parts are still going to be all over the place even if every drawer magically...
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For most through-hole components, I use these:
For surface mount, the compartments are way too big. I use these instead:
...and since I have like 100 of each, I keep them neatly store in map cabinets, aka 'flat files':

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Looking for a good socket set that i can keep for years. My boss has a Craftsman set he got at Orchard Supply for about 130 iirc and it seems pretty solid.
I dont know anything about what names are quality but i know i wont be buying some snap-on 400 dollar set.
Any suggestions?
18 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
You didnt specify a price range, or what kind of sockets you are looking for.
All you have said is that you want good sockets that will last, and then contradicted that statement by saying that a chinese craftsman set seemed solid.
>from OSH
I doubt he got a Sears brand from Orchard
>Sears brand

The CEO that moved all production of Craftsman to china, he also started farming out Craftsman sales to other hardware stores.

Getting ready for the inevitable of killing Sears off completely.

Saw this in another thread. Do any of you have some more stuff like this. Looking for inspiration on my room renovation.
10 replies and 3 images submitted. Click here to view.
Aren't you looking for a battle station thread on /g/ ?
Goodluck hiding your jizz-rag in a blacklit room like that
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Here to help.

My current room. Gonna diss the blacklights when I finish building my bedroom in the downstairs basement.

Still gonna keep the grey walls though.

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So my laptop doesn't come with a CD drive, but it has this placeholder thing, and a cd-tray sized hole in the side. The placeholder screws came out so I can put whatever I want in there. There's access to some sort of SATA connection inside.
I'm looking for ideas for what to put inside! I don't do enough drugs to make it a stash though.

What I came up with so far:
-a physical calculator
-offline password keeper (push a physical button and it writes it out)
-spare beef jerky stash

Any other ideas? I want to do something interesting
22 replies and 4 images submitted. Click here to view.
>offline password keeper (push a physical button and it writes it out)
Writes on what? Can you actually fit a spool of paper in there?
I put a second hard drive in mine.
I think he means on the computer itself using the sata connection, which is an awesome idea.

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I was wondering what type of material I would use to make a custom mold for gold. Thanks in advanced.
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No answer from me, but on this same topic, I was wondering if it's possible to remove the impurities from, say, 18k gold and make 24k gold out of it.
milled a block of graphite for a mold because its what I had on hand but I think most people would use investment casting.
3rd cucked fag interested - getting tied in Oct.

I've contemplated doing a silver coin ring, just not digging the symbolism of being tied to the Federal Reserve.

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A Bluetooth keyboard with terrible range. So I was wondering if there is a way for me to boost the signal?
Perhaps dismantle another Bluetooth device and use the transmitter?
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Backside of the chip

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Hey /diy/, quick question. My forklift at work, an electric Yale 4-wheel is compromised due to me. I yanked on the cable rather than the anderson connector to unplug the battery cable from the lift, and now the black cable is a little loose in the connector.

How fucked am I, and how can I fix it myself? I can see copper showing on the black cable now, I just want the damn thing reseated. Pls help

Connector looks exactly like pic related
24 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.

You either:

A.) Pulled the cable out of the crimp. In that case, not really your fault; that should have been essentially impossible to do. Stuff it back in and crimp it better.

B.) Pulled the contact out of the housing. Again, not your fault if you were able to do it; Anderson plugs lock in once assembled and shouldn't be able to come loose without deliberate effort. See if the pawl that holds the contact in is okay and push it back in if it is.

C.) Pulled the insulation back on the cable. Yet again, shouldn't really have been possible unless it was cut too far back in the first place. Cover it with some suitable tape and it should be alright.
thank you for your response. I was trying to push it back in before I closed the store, but I'm not sure if I accomplished anything. As far as I could tell, I couldn't at this point easily pull the cable or anything else from the connector. The black cable just jiggles a lot, and I can see copper which I don't like. Any tips on a fix?
Oh and I should have added, from my brief experience before I got frustrated and went home, situation A seems most likely

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I feel that makeing my own cf blade would be cheaper than buying one i'm just not sure about a few thing:
1. number of layers i would need
2. if theres some other material it's made out of or if its just carbon fiber
3,advantages/disadvantages of the different mounting options
4. dimensions
10 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
don't shoot your girlfriend
Don't cut off your leg OP, it's not worth it. Post pics.
1. at least four, less than nine
2. epoxy usually helps
3. you'll need to cut off your lower legs for optimum performance
4. 3 by 12 by 2

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How would this work in reality?
30 replies and 3 images submitted. Click here to view.
The rods will corrode, that's kinda how a battery works.
What I mean is how would this be assembled, the copper and zinc rods being combined with a chargers cord.
.25 x12 inch Zinc extrusion:15$
.25 x 12 inch copper: 8$
Wire: 5$, free
USB: 5$, free

23-33 dollar experiment OP. Amazon has everything you'd need. Hell, you cpuld probably source copper for free. Zinc may be harder.

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>tl;dr: my toilet has this connection that I don't understand and I would like to know more

Good morning /diy/

Is anyone here experienced with toilets? Replacing them more than using them, specifically.

I'm supposed to replace the toilet in our house soon - it works fine, it's just old and we're gradually upgrading and modernising the place.

I've replaced toilets before but I've always encountered a flange that's flush with the floor, and used two long bolts to fasten the new toilet....
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That is odd. What country, how old, what style toilet? More pics would be great.
Australia. The house was built in the mid 1980s so I assume the toilet is original.

The brand on the bowl is "Fowler Ware" for what it's worth.
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Need to sound proof one or two of my walls in my rental house so I cant just Rip off the jib and re-insulate the wall so any tips or help would be awesome
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You just posted what you need in the avatar. What the fuck.
not exactly cheap mate, and from what ive read its a misconception on how much the deaden the sound they just stop re-verb and echo

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Where did I fuck up?

I want a mallet I could pound the absolute fuck out of, any suggestions?
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Buy one.
Should lend you my wife OP

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Please help me before I fucking snap. I live above a pool at an apartment complex. It's so fucking noisy and I cannot deal with this anymore. Can a sliding glass door be sound proofed? I am totally at fault for choosing this apartment I thought it would be nice to stare at hot chick's but I got were screaming kids. I am going to break my lease and eat 2 grand penalty if I move. I also can move into the back of the apartments but I would like to try and sound proof if possible. I am a terrible handy man, here's a pic of the door. Please help me before I fucking...
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bungee cord a matress against it
Short answer is no, you can do things like >>1000854 if you want but it won't help a whole lot, it will just dampen the sound, the most obvious choice is just get some ear plugs (Especially for sleep) or some good headphones if you want to watch tv/listen to music.

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How the fuck do these mother fuckers keep getting into my apartment?

My place is spotless and usually always is, sink is empty, bathroom is dry, no leaks in any pipes, the only place I can think of is the dishwasher that's backing up, but I never use it and it seals closed so I don't bother

I don't have plants or any fruits/veg laying around. All my food is in the fridge or in the counter.

I put out vinegar traps and in two weeks, they caught about 10 total. So it's not like I have an infestation, but they're getting in somehow

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It's the same one all the time, the ones in the traps are decoys
It's trying to claim the apartment as it's own by convincing you you're crazy
It's how they do it in the wild, nature is wonderful
They may be drain flys, not fruit flies. We once got a small "infestation" in our clean apartment because they did some maintenance on the pipes and these fuckers showed up.

The problem is that they reproduce so quickly, like in a matter of hours, so you have to get rid of all of them at the same time. What finally worked for us was leaving lit candels right next to every drain in the apartment, then turning off all of the lights. Since the only light the flies could see was the candels, they would...
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Ive had a straight infestation fixed by putting some old fruit or wine in dish soapy water, in a jar with a cone or seran wrap trap, anything with a small opening. They cant resist the scent of fermentaion, and they cant eacape the surface tension of the soapy water

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What design for a selfmade helicopter would be the safest?

Aka. what design won't make an automatic beheader.
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The designs already in use obviously thats why we use them.
>what design won't make an automatic beheader
i think you have to worry more about not crashing
> What do you think of Helicopters?
> I think they're a great way to get killed.

No matter what you do your homemade one will be a deathtrap.

How do you guys who live at home embark on diy projects?

I am 25 but live with my parents because this area is economically very expensive and I don't make enough to live alone. I want to do DIY to try and make home feel like I belong here but am having difficulty in doing so

My main idea is that I want to build an outhouse in the back garden primarily for myself. My parents deny me however, and insist I am not allowed to do so.

Their primary arguments against the outhouse are ridiculous and all have very easy, logical counterpoints.

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I can't imagine how disappointed your parents are in you. You're 25, living at home because you don't earn enough to move out, and your solution to the situation is to build yourself a private shithouse in their yard? Outstanding.

You should have told them you want to build a shed for other projects, then dug a pit inside and shit in that without them knowing.
Acually I would have thought they should be proud of me.

I was NEET for 2 years and managed to get a job and I work harder than either of them. I pay rent. And guess what?

They caught me shitting in the garden about 5 months ago. Which is why I want an Outhouse. I don't like shitting indoors. I am solving a problem with the households ability to function.
I will grant that building an outhouse would be preferable to seeing their son secretly shitting in the garden, but lets be honest here, both are well below the threshold of acceptable behavior for an adult trying to make their parents proud.

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