>>997093 Nope. Manufacturing jobs are going to be going away worldwide over the next century. Labor costs in the third world are raising, international shipping ain't getting any cheaper or faster, and the cost of automated manufacturing is going down year by year. The factories will come back because, with labor costs much reduced and infrastructure in the first world being better, it will be cost competitive and simpler to produce nearer your customers. That said, those factories will being employing dozens of people and... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>997109 look forward to a bright future with universal basic income. You can afford a cubical sized apartment that will make the one on fith element look spacious. But its ok you'll be zonked out on legal pot and staring into your oculus rift all day.
>>1004453 what a waste, the books look like they will collect a lot of dust and you cant even read them. This is a stupid idea. If you use bad books make it seem like you read that shit, If you use good books it is sad that you destroyed them.
How are you going to clean your floor without the books getting wet you should have put a baseboard How stupid are you.
Besides why are there 6 twilight books in there. I would not want that on my bookshelf and you put it on your wall. How did you even get these books?
I have a robot toy that I never threw away. Now I want to salvage it for the electronics inside and the motors in his limbs but I have no idea what these electronics are and if they are worth salvaging. What are these? Also will post more if you want me to.
>>1003984 those are all basic parts. If you have a multimeter you can test if a lot of those are good. The transistors will be a bit hard to use without datasheets but you can test the values of those too (although that would require a little knowledge of electronics and building circuits)
Hello there /diy/, I'm looking for some sort of information that serves as an all encompassing guide to woodworking/carpentry. Essentially, I want to get to be able to make simple furniture, tables, chairs, desks etc.
Does anyone know of any books that serve as a good introductory guide?
It's quite literally a box, wiring, drivers, and cones. Driver and cones will end up costing the most if you want the same ones in name brand cabs. The housing is shaped and designed with acoustic physics in mind so your best bet is to copy one exactly. Then all that's left is to wire it up and make it pretty.
>>1003802 >It's quite literally a box, wiring, drivers, and cones.
What are cross-overs? What are amplifiers? Please, tell me how you can have a bass, treble and volume adjustments using only wires? Do you just throw some drivers in a box and call it a day? Cause you sure are making it sound simple... But it ain't. The only thing simple here is you.
This is my attic I'm trying to convert into a loft bedroom. Just finished getting closed cell insulating down and put up vapor barrier. I wanted to put up wood paneling for the walls but all my local home depot and rona have is shitty looking knotty pine and it's expensive as hell. I'm in Canada if that means anything.
sup /diy/ need some help finishing up this very incomplete diagram of some lights I need for night fishing, trick part is that one switch needs to turn on both lights, while the other on switch needs to turn only the back light on for anchor.
>>1002544 Every fucking year we have a nice little gardening festival in our neighborhood. Guess who shows up and wrecks up the place with their little plastic fucking tracks and their little scale models of Santa's shitty workshop? TRAINFAGS. You faggots have no decency, sitting in your yard chairs huffing and puffing about those kids trying to get past your shitty rope tied to two by fours that protect your stupid little plastic trains. They're not special you cunt. You special snowflakes don't belong at a FUCKING... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Where can I get steel plate for general cut/weld diy stuff. Thinking of 3/16" hot roll plate 4' x 8' for starters, maybe 11gauge cold roll would be cheaper though. My company buys from Samuel in Houston once every few months for various projects, so I could probably place a small order and pay with my CC, but I don't want to call and be a "whats the cheapest option you have available right now" douche...
I order my steel using email for quotes and only call them to pay for the order via cc. Email seems to be the best way for us small fries because we're not on the phone with a sales rep for half an hour for a sub $1000 order.
Honestly this is barely worth starting a new thread, but I wanted some input from you guys.
Since last thread I have replaced my home made wrist and elbow seals with some cheap Chinese silicone drysuit seals. I now have a workable vacuum seal on the gauntlet.
Next step is figuring out how to mount the heatsink and pressure gauge through the PVC pipe while maintaining a good seal.
I haven't done anything like this before so I've got a few ideas for you guys to tear apart before I waste time and materials testing them.
A quick run down for those not familiar with my project, the aim is to create a highly portable medical device which will dynamically manage a person's core body temperature when climate, required PPE/activity, and/or medical conditions would have resulted in hyperthermia/heatstroke.
It achieves this using a peltier cooler applied to a heatsink in direct contact with the skin, along with a partial vaccum chamber to prevent local vasoconstriction under the heatsink.
I want to build a skin-on-frame kayak (pic related), and I'm looking for a suitable (and cheap) material to build the frames. Usually, marine plywood is used for this. However, this is not locally available, and shipping cost would almost double the price, which is just ridiculous.
So I'm looking for a suitable alternative (if there is one).
One thing I have tried, I kid you not: I glued together three scrap pieces of high density fiberboard to the desired thickness, made a frame from that and tested how strong it was. I put it on two pieces of lumber and jumped around on it. To my surprise, it hardly budged. Now this would be an incredibly cheap way to do this, and it seems to work well enough (I'd have to seal it somehow, I guess), but it also is an incredibly stupid way to do it.
>>993818 Yes, I'm aware of that. However, the process of gluing those pieces of HDF together was just some wild experiment I did because there was nothing else around. It's highly unpractical.
I'm interested in alternatives that come in the desired thickness (1/2 inch) and are comparable in strength to marine ply. Water resistance isn't really an issue since I can just treat it, like you suggested.
Hey /diy/, I'm about to make a clay pot dedicated to 4chan out of pure dirt. I've been clearing it out of grass, sticks, rocks, etc. I haven't made one since high school so imma bit rusty. Are their any dos and don'ts along with protips that you can provide. P.S Imma post the whole process on this thread.
I fucking love this stuff. Every two weeks I spray it on both the soil and the plants and they just explode. Even with my super crowded garden my yield is going to be amazing. I already have about 30 sunbursts on the vine and my heirloom tomatos should be sprouting any day now. Is there a better product? Everybody I have talked too swears by this.
hey guys, I have a problem with my shingle, pic related, anyways, somehow, one of them cracked a little and was raised, I noticed this because I went to check my roof after I found water leaking in through my roof , I'm planning to replace it myself, I've read a few tutorials on the internet, and already have a general idea of how to, I don't have any actual experience though. are there things I should avoid? anyone have any tips?
I've got a small jack hammer in need of oil. The manual says I need 40# Rotella oil, but i can't find it anywhere except online, and I don't want to order a big jug of it. I asked around and was recommended to use Rotella 15w 40 instead. My question is, will it make much of a difference, or will I fuck up the tool?
Thanks for your help.
Pic related. Harbor freight, i know. They had no idea how to help me.
so i think i mixed my resin wrong, im making a small teardrop bead with a bee i found encased in the middle, this isnt the first bug ive encased, but its the first one ive done that was so small. Normally its done by now, but it isnt, and i was wondering if i mixed it wrong, missed some kind of step, or if smaller things cure slower.
>>1003399 You can apply a little extra heat. Epoxy is one of those things that cure with heat. Just leave it in in a container on the dash of your car out in the sun. (or wrap in foil. Uv will fuck epoxy unless its got blockers)
i've stretched a transparent greenhouse tarp on a frame and i need to paint it. the tension is even rendering the surface less prone to any deformation. problem is, it's nearly impossible to make paint adheres to polyethylene-type plastic, and at some point, i need to use a very soft kind of painter tape to delimit an area. also, at some other point, i need to apply a certain type of acrylic using a paint roll.
i've resorted to painting some parts of it with basic white spray paint, which adheres better than acrylic applied with a roll.... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Got this old Pratt & Whitney 16" x 54" lathe hooked up. Set the feed rate to 60 TPI (slow as it goes) and engaged power feed on a light surface pass on a rod of crap hot rolled, and lo and behold terrible surface finish. I think it's feeding too fast.
Any ideas why? No I'm not using the half nut as a power feed.
What is this? It's connected to a coaxial cable. I found it in the box outside. There don't appear to be center pins in the sleeve thing and the end with the thread. I was thinking it was a spacer to turn off the cable but the end bit that's threaded makes no sense. Anyone know what this is.
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