Special tools are expensive and of limited utility by nature, so I usually try to make them from common stuff before I give in.
From top to bottom:
1. Chain whip, made from a metal rule and some parts of an old chain. Its sole purpose is to flay the flesh, also to remove the sprocket from my Shimano 7 speed bike. 2. Burnishing rod made from an old worn out bastard file, with the edge ground smooth for burring my cabinet scraper. 3. Marking knife filed out of a spade bit.
But from OPs pic it might be a heat transfer foil print/embossment/transfer. When I used to do it at work. We placed a copper plate with the design on it into a heated cradle and placed that in a hiedleberg windmill press. Ours was mostly just stationary type paper. Could possibly screen print it too assuming you could find a decent ink.
>>942054 Top do this on the cheap the process isn't that complicated, it's exactly what you'd think, just push a metal negative into the book, then apply gold ink or whatever to the channel.
If your use a leather cover then this is super easy, otherwise if you are using a thinner cloth cover you might have to drive the depression into the book board itself. Not a huge hurdle if you are getting into bookbinding and have a proper press.
But if you want to do this the traditional way then it's considerably... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I want to build a very specific thing for my sound setup.
I'm pretty good with soldering stuff and following instructions as well as doing conversion things - but I never really built anything "from the ground up", so I have a lot of questions but really look forward to do this.
Basically I want to put a soundcard and headphone-amp into one unit, but also want a few special things:
-has to have mic-in -headphones and (balanced) pre-out have to be usable at the same time -completely passive but regulatable rca-in to balanced/unbalanced pre-out
(I'm planing to use that with my active speakers that accept balanced in: M-Audio BX8 D2)
of course I could buy a few different devices and chain them together to get all of this working, but why not simply diy my own solution to only have one device and no cable clutter ... also, I want to build it for fun
my plan is to order a bunch of connectors and potentiometers for the front/back panels and some off-the-shelf hardware for the three internal components (which I'd rip apart to arrange their internals in my build, soldering everything together with some wires).
I need help with selecting the right components and especially what kind and resistance of potentiometers I'm going to need.
here's my plan so far:
-audio interface: random decent USB soundcard stick with 3,5mm in and out (any recommendations for a cheap one that doesn't suck? has to be plug'n'play, no drivers)
-headphone amp: a stereo amp kit from ebay or something. the amp obviously needs some power (I haven't put that into the mockup-schematic yet)
-DI unit: likely the Behringer MicroHD HD400, because I have one and it works well
any recommendations for the usb sound card or some other things I haven't considered or should watch out for?
i think that you want a decent usb interface if im not mistaken, http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-302USB-Xenyx-Mixer/dp/B005EHILV4 this one seems to have all you need and even has phantom power and eq, all in's and out's and 2 inputs , what do you want this for anon ?
Have we hit the maximum power draw from a wall socket for computer power supplies?
American current is 120V at 60Hz and most houses allow for about 15 amps per circuit (correct me if I'm wrong) so this means: watts = 1 × 15A × 120V = 1800W
Of course the wiring and breakers in a house will never be perfect, and there will usually be other things using power from a circuit in a house other than the PSU (lights, TV, ceiling fan, etc). So, if you had a 1600 watt PSU in your computer taking in the maximum power draw (which is completely possible, 4P board... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>941976 Before anyone else says anything, I'm just talking about home usage. Of course more powerful PSUs exceeding 2000w can be purchased but they are usually for server environments where the available amperage coming from the wall outlet would be much higher. There have been a few "home use" PSUs 2000 watts and higher, but I have never found one that isn't either complete shit or doesn't require two separate plugs from two separate circuits in your house.
Pic related, external 2000 watt PSU,... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>941976 if anything we'll see more people putting in dedicated circuits for their PCs since obviously most people run them longer than 3 hours and you don't want to fry anything I don't see any one upping the power on these because they don't want to risk anything
After hunting down what was wrong with breakers in my new apartment (badly burnt insides of a breaker), I was wondering - is there a safe way to trip someone's breakers without harming the electronics and live through the ordeal?
at the 100A fuse box just after the meter, you can reverse one phase with the neutral. this places 220V across plugs and lights, and should definitely pop the breakers without doing TOO MUCH damage to TVs and stereos.
So, i'm thinking of doing a bear coat, like Blake uses in the second episode of Workaholics Thing is, the coat part is prett easy to make, just sewing and stuff, but it's the bear part that kinda makes me a bit worried Should i model it out of foam and then glue the faux fur on top? should i make the entire thing out of fur and then just stuff it with those fiber things that you get on pillows? And for the teeth and claws, should i do it in clay and paint it later?
>>941913 Yeah, this is the "official" one, even tho it doesn't look anything like the one he uses(it's just a shitty cash grab, actually) The original is 100 dollars cheaper, but it's really difficult to find The original looks like it's made of foam, instead of the plushy one from your pic, but i'm scared i'm gonna fuck up the fur when i try to glue it on the foam(and btw, is insulation foam the best foam to carve this out of?)
I'm painting the plastic parts of my car interior, but the paint keeps doing this. Does anyone know why this happens or how it can be prevented? I applied 2 coats of plastic primer first, so that can't be it. Is it just shitty plastic?
Those are "fish eyes" caused by impurities on the base. If it's automotive interior then it needs a major cleaning before any spraying due to numerous chemicals containing silicone, Armor-All to be specific. A good wax and grease remover and some elbow grease will get it off. DX-330 from PPG is my go to for cleaning interior panels. Remember to clean BEFORE you sand or else you risk embedding impurities into the substrate and you'll never get them out.
Ok, thanks. I guess I didn't clean or sand the material good enough beforehand. This rubberish stuff tends to build up on VW MK4 interior plastic and maybe I didn't get it all off. Is there any way to fill most of these holes up? Do I just try to apply more layers of paint until most them are filled or would this be futile?
How hard is it to make your own motorized backets for digital panels?
I have two ideas for what I want, but I can't actually find the designs that I have in mind for sale.
I want to have a a bracket that can hide behind ceiling panels and fold down then lower to a comfortable viewing height, I can find brackets that do one or the other but not both.
I also want one for a desk that holds three monitors and a tv bracket above that, hooked up so the side monitors can rotate to be flush with the wall, then the tv can swing forward and down so it can be at a lower more comfortable angle for viewing.
Only the ceiling one needs to be motorized though, because the room has 10 foot cielings and I want a way to mount a tv above the bed comfortably, the desk+wall mount would be easily done with just something you could move around by hand, which would make construction simpler.
>I can find brackets that do one or the other but not both. find and purchase bracket 'function one' find and purchase bracket 'function other' bolt bracket 'function other' to bracket 'function one' = complete new bracket 'function one & the other'
Everthing you are looking for exists, just, join the dots. Motorised platform riser that supports a fold-out bracket is gonna have to be pretty heavy duty/expensive tho, they exist for projectors, but, depending on TV size, you may... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Not sure if this is the right board, but where do I shop for all my /diy/ needs? Specifically, small springs. The local place closed down several years ago and my weak googlefu wants me to buy in bulk.
I'm looking to replace the spring in picrelated with something weaker (it injects too fast as is). Alternatively, I want to make a variable speed autoinjection device, but I don't know where to start. The only one on the market I know of is the LISA, and it's too expensive for me on top of not being compatible with my syringes.
In my experience, this is the hardest kind of thing to find. It's the perfect storm of "good fucking luck" factors: There's no standard, the equipment used to make them is specialized, and they're almost always made-to-order.
Honestly, the "buy some music wire and make your own" tends not to be that bad a suggestion. I keep a couple spools for this purpose, although I keep finding the stuff extremely useful for... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
hello /diy/ i have old dr martens boots and i want to do something similar to pic related to them (pic 1 or 2, haven't decided yet) so can you tell me what is the best way to do that, which materials/techniques to use?
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