Generally ill do: >3 or 4 of the large Jumex Mango juice (i think they're 64oz) >1 can of pineapple juice >and a carton of orange juice >then add sugar (or honey) to get to the right brix >for yeast I'll use the 1136
Sometimes the store will have pineapple... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Hey ya'll. Anybody ever use jb weld or similar epoxy to repair electric motor shafts? I pulled this armature to replace bearings and found this pitted section where the front bearing was sitting. The strangest part is the inside race of the bearing didn't show any sign of wear... anyway, i've been told you can apply jb weld then take off the excess once dried and it should work for awhile. Anyone try this?
It's been said but I want to emphasise that the best solution is to turn down the diameter and install a sleeve. Gonna get more life from the shaft that way. Also, was there some sort of compound between the bearing and the shaft? I'm no metallurgist but to me that looks like some kind of corrosion. The fact it wasn't on the inner race of the bearing suggests to me it isn't wear. Possibly a chemical reacting with the shaft material which the bearing material was non reactive with.
I've managed to keep spiders out of my house quite easily, but coming into summer they've infiltrated all the crevices outside my house, and I just want to kill the bastards. What is the best method for such a thing?
Local stores sell premade sprays for like $20 a litre, but I got a lot of areas to spray, and I'm sure most of the price is just in the packaging. I have a sprayer I use to spray weeds, what can I fill/dilute my sprayer with?
>>1085287 Have it done by someone. I work in lawn care and we have a service where we spray 3 feet out and 3 feet up around the base of the house. Then spray around the eves of the house and around all the doors, windows, and anything that goes through the walls. Shit works pretty well. So well that people complain about "NOW MY HOUSE HAS DEAD SPIDERS AND BUGS EVERYWHERE"
We use Talstar liquid insecticide. I think it has bifenthrin. Mix it up at 1oz per gallon. 2oz per gallon if you want to nuke the place. I imagine it's like $40 for a gallon of the stuff. I'm not sure about your area but I don't think you need a license to buy it where I'm at; just to apply it commercially.
Don't use a sprayer that has had herbicide in it so you can spray the bushes and plants around your shit too. If you get it on any vegetable plants, WASH YOUR SHIT BEFORE YOU EAT IT. take a shower after. That shit will make your skin tingle and muscles twitch if you get it on you. Also wear a respirator.
Hey, I was messing with a Bluetooth speaker but I broke off the charger port. Is there anyway I can switch the battery for normal ones(AA,AAA,C, etc...)? Would it be worth it? Would a normal battery run out to fast?
>>1085203 looks like that is a 3.7 volt lithium battery, but you should measure it. The thing with batteries is that they aren't a constant power source, A fully charged 12 volt measures around 14 volts, and around 10 or 11 when it's about dead. If you get a voltage that is close it may still work.
Is is possible to buy an offshore oil rig and create a real life Mother Base? And make an MSF/DD style organization around it, contracting work from around the world while still being a home for soldiers?
How big? With the right tools and enough time probably a million square foot house, at least 2 levels.
>why arent there more "homes" threads Because most of us here on this Swedish canning forum either don't have enough money to buy a house, don't have the skills to build a house, or don't have the money to /diy/ their own house.
Despite the seemingly invaluable nature of the tool, I hate using it because the cut quality is utter shit. The blade is always deflecting whenever I make a curve and the jagged finish left behind always requires extensive sanding.
I'm not expecting glass-smooth table saw cuts, or even bandsaw quality cuts, but is this normal? How much better of a cut will I get by going to a higher-end Bosch/Makita/etc jigsaw?
It sounds like you're going too fast with a shitty blade. That's usually the issue. And, yes, I speak from experience on this one.
The only other likely scenario is, as has been pointed out, an incorrect blade selection. It's unlikely that the saw itself is responsible, and there isn't really any noticeable difference between a low-end and high-end saber saw in terms of cut quality. Other than excessive slop/wobble in the drive shaft that the blade connects to, there isn't much,... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1085055 It is important to note that there are two major types of stucco and they act differently. The old type (I mean really old, but you can still find them) are a lot of work but are very durable and don't dry fast. The new type are much easier to make but don't hold up as well. And now they got this even newer stuff that is essentially just glue (and shouldn't even be called stucco) but promises to do everything (I have learn not to trust such grand promises without proof). There is actually a lot of chemistry... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1084572 No but i am interest. 10 air horns currently installing and leaving room for 5 more. Other anon. How loud is your train horn when comparied to say. The little red plastic wolo air horns? Does it sound like the expensive ass real ones?
How would /diy/ pump ferric chloride for spray etching?
Any kind of commercially available pump will die after a few uses because the ferric chloride will etch away the metal axle and/or destroy the rubber gaskets.
Would it be possible to build an all-plastic pump with a cast resin impeller with an encased magnet (which, since is encased in epoxy, never touches the ferric chloride), which would be made to spin using an HDD motor just outside of the etching tank via some kind of magnetic coupling? Kinda like a magnetic stirrer, only instead of stirring liquid it spins an impeller.
Imagine an impeller like this, but with a few neodymium magnets on the other side, which are attracted by matching magnets on a disc bolted to the HDD motor. I have a small pond pump that works by a similar principle. The impeller and the axle have no direct connection to the driving coils, so the water never gets in contact with the electronics inside it.
That impeller would then be stuck to one of the walls of a tank like this, which would also have other laser cut acrylic parts in order to function as a pump. At the top of the plate there would be several holes of small diameter, so that the pumped ferric chloride would spray against the board I'm currently etching. This would be repeated on the other side of the tank to etch double faced boards.
Before I get going on this I want to preface with my body (physically) is absolutely fucked as far as manual labor goes. I did a lot of it when I really shouldnt have an I'm leaning towards disabled. (I have to get someone else to pick something up for me if its over 30lbs or the next day I wont be able to walk. (Its very embarassing and even still on occassion ill pick things up anyways just to not have to embarass myself. Im usually on a cane the next day so it never really does work out in my favor.)
My wife wants to build a catio onto our house like pic related.... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
So I moved into an apartment with some cool dudes and there's a bit of a roach infestation.
I've been spraying the ones I've seen, but they're persistent little fuckers. The enemy has set up a compound somewhere and I've yet to find it. I've deployed a few fearmongering tactics, but they seem unphased. This zealot army remains unshaken by my insectoid genocide. They're small little bastards too, so I can't crucify them like I normally would. Salting their fields has proven ineffective, they must have a steady imported supply of... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
If you have to ask, no. Not in any way they'd hold up to use, at least. Gears are one of those obnoxious things you either need a ridiculously expensive machine to make any kind of, or hassle with a much less expensive machine and semi-complicated setup in order to just make one kind.
They're ALSO one of those obnoxious things that are present in damn near everything mechanical, but have virtually no standards defining their properties.... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
What is the best way to get these fuckers out of say an attic? I've tried a few methods but the best seems to be trapping them in a cage and really the easier way to deal with them then is to kill them. Is there a better way to get them to not come back into the attic?
Seal all entry points after ALL squirrels that were going in there have been eliminated. Take it from me, you don't want to close up an entry while a squirrel with babies is nested in there. It will sit there all day and chew through whatever you put up. I've had them chew through an entire 2x4 in a few hours.
May be salvageable Focus on keeping the circulation going Put a clear plastic bag or container over it to raise humidity so some leaves recover. Gradually increase the airflow. Be careful not to overwater. Distilled water can help distressed plants.
Sudden drops in humidity are harmful to plants. Looks to me like that's what happened. Lack of light would cause yellowing.
>>1083190 That's about the going rate unless you buy them by the box for a discount. Pretty cheap unless you're building a large furnace or kiln or something. If you have to order them, the shipping's not too bad because they're pretty light.
Making a Remote controlled tentacle? My wife is REALLY into tentacles. I'm wanting to build a remote controlled tentacle for her. How would I go about doing this? Mostly interested in the inner workings, something I can slip a pre-existing tentacle over. Or doesn't need to be too complex or anything. It might even be better if it's something with a pre-defined set of motions that activate when a flip is desired.
>>1082800 Or he could just google the question and delete this thread? Because a google search will tell him more then anyone on here.. Only one who might know anything remotely related is the RC guys and six axis sex robot guy.
>>1082040 >I prefer copper pipe myself. My dad is the same way. I personally love those little plastic connectors. Easy to work with, easy to replace, and they hold up to the abuse when I worked at a water bottling place.
Next project needs careful investigation and I need help here. I'm going to build an extension boom for my 23ton excavator. The rough plan is outlined in the pic. I'm considering either a 3m+3m or maybe an 2m+2m+2m manually extendable extension. Now the welding and such will not be a problem but I need help on choosing a material. At the moment my eyes are on a 200mm*400mm steel box section and the extensions will then be smaller than that so that they can slide back and forth so that I can choose an appropriate length for the job needed. I'm thinking that... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1081659 >>1081660 I plotted the lifting capacities of the machine. In the image the blue line is from the table, up to 9m and the thinner is extrapolated from that data. The red line is the calculated max weight that will (might?) tip the machine. Now I'd like to have the boom to withstand the tipping weight to that it wont break, and I will feel it when it gets light on the back when the max reach will be close. Rather that than having the boom breaking. So I'd like to know if someone has mad calculation skills to figure out the tube size(s) and the material thickness. As stated earlier 200*400mm is in my mind at the moment with thickness around 8mm but is this overkill or ridiculously flimsy? Also input of supports in the end of the machine would be nicer than nice. So that I can reinforce it to be as strong as possible with minimum weight. I'm considering adding a fin to the top side of the first boom to strengthen it but I don't know if it has any real significance. As the load will inevitably swing a bit it needs to be strong enough sideways also to that it wont bend, but the main force will be predictable...
This is a lathe screw on faceplate that came in a box of parts when I bought my ShopSmith. I don't have a head end adapter for this faceplate but it would be nice to turn bowls. Any idea what the threading is on this? No one in maintenance at my work knows.
Until now I've done simple serial circuits or step-by-step projects, now I want to make a paralel circuit with 81 LEDs, 8 different colors (Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, White, Pink and Violet) I now little about resistors or the voltage I need. Any help? I need to finish this in less than a month.
>>1079781 Ok well where the fuck to start The ' effective resistance' of an led decreases as it heats up, a warm led draws more current which causes more heat. This is called thermal runaway and it kills leds. That's why you need a resistor. The resistor value is determined by the difference in voltage between the source and the led (the voltage that the resistor will have to drop (voltages add up in a series circuit and are equivalent in a parallel circuit, google kirchoffs laws)) and the current the led... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.
This is a 4chan archive - all of the content originated from them. If you need IP information for a Poster - you need to contact them. This website shows only archived content.
If a post contains personal/copyrighted/illegal content you can contact me at email@example.com with that post and thread number and it will be removed as soon as possible.