I'm wanting to have a set of LEDs turn on when I enter a room so I'm going to get a PIR sensor. Now the part I'm not 100% sure about is how it wires in to my circuit, I'm hoping it works like a button/switch, like I have drawn in my shitty diagram but I doubt I'd be so lucky. Searching around I can't get a straight answer because I can only seem to find setups for several sets of lights around a house instead of just powering one thing.
So what I want to know is, would my shitty schematic work so that when someone walks in to the room... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
so basically a motion sensor? you can get one of those cheap outdoor light fixtures for your yard that turn on when someone walks by... and just rip out the sensor...
but the problem with room sensors is when the motion stops the lights will go out... so if you are sitting watching tv or something the lights will keep going off or if you are doing your homework or anything that you arent moving around
>Arduino announces Arduino/Genuino 101, which is positioned at the same demographic as Arduino Uno >Arduino 101 uses Intel Curie instead of Atmel AVR >more advanced version that allows on-chip step debugging introduced (Arduino Zero) >uses Atmel ARM chip
AVR is being flushed from Arduino product line-up.
>>940336 They aren't dropping AVR at all from what I can see. There is only one through hole design left, but there are plenty of 8bit AVRs there. Got a link to some article showing our claiming they're ditching AVR?
>>940316 Nope. but that's because I started picking up a ton of offcuts of plywood since buying them. Jointer was a huge help turning palletwood into nice boards, got planer after that and haven't had a reason to really use it yet :/
Can anyone explain why pic related is frying my 555 timer? I'm using the CMOS TLC555CP. It works fine at 6 volts but 9 fries it immediately. The highlighted 10 ohm resistor is actually a DC motor. The diode in parallel with it should be protecting the rest of the circuit from the voltage spike caused by the inductor. It's a 4148 diode rated at well over the frequency at which the circus operating. Any ideas?
Ok guys and gals and otherkins and A10 warthogs… I need help.
>have pic related, as well as another 25 gallon air tank, for a total of 55 gallons of air supply. >want to sand blast like a bastard. A dozen old cast iron radiators, my rusty truck, an old bicycle, etc >can't find any good sand blasters, and don't know if harbor freight shit can keep up with the volume of stuff I want to blast.
Ideally, I would have an industrial sand blaster and do literally... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
You can blast with that compressor but not very fast. 10 CFM would be a minimum and even that is low. You will get a few minutes of blast time with a small gun nozzle, then wait for your tank to fill up, then a few minutes, then wait for compressor to cool, then fill up. That's not a constant duty cycle compressor. They even say 1000h pump life; industrial compressors will go many times that, screw compressors can run contiuously for years.
>>940210 Serious blasting requires serious power. I can afford an industrial blast pot and all the gear plus a compresor to run it,, but that's not worth it when the alternative is easy.
I take my truck and motorcycle frames etc to a local monument company. Monument companies use industrial sandblasters to cut artwork and letters in gravestones. They nearly all do sandblasting because it's good side cash.
You will die of old age trying to do it yourself with babby blasters. All they are good for is small parts. Don't even bother for radiators and large truck parts. I wouldn't use a hobby blaster for those jobs if everything were free.
You can rent an industrial compressor, blast pot and gear and buy blast media from a rental center if you want but I wouldn't do that for those jobs either because you'd have to hurry insanely to get it all done in reasonable time so you don't rent for extra days.
Some things are DIY. I have a lathe, mill, welders, and a shitload of gear. No way would I bother with blasting unless I had very high profitable volumes of work.
Pay the nice man. My last Harley frame and swingarm was fifty bucks. Even if you spend a few hundred to do your listed load that's a LOT less than a serious compressor and blast pot.
I'm building this wardrobe. The interior is made of OSB boards to have freedom of arrangement of shelves and hangers later on. However, I'm a bit concerned about the rough surface of the boards. Splinters coming loose may damage clothes. I don't mean my jeans or polyester but rather my gf's sexy things.
Any ideas what kind of paint would seal OSB well? Is it worth sanding beforehand?
>>940175 Sanding, yes. Osb can finish up quite nice once properly sanded. Plenty of example of it being used in furniture around. Only got a link to a stool but a quick Google should give some wardrobe examples
>>940175 plaster it, theres a way i heard of working, by mixing a plaster and kiltz paint, no vinyl based plaster.. if its chalky then add a coat without plaster to seal it.. i understand kiltz will work ok by itself if you dont care about texture.
I want to play a really loud and high note on a speaker to annoy the idiots at a club 50 meters away from my house, i live on a second floor, have a fully functional balcony and can point a speaker directly at them if it's needed, so how should I do it?
What speaker should i use? What tone should i play to make it as annoying as possible? Is doing this legal?
I live in argentina, and 10 years ago my neighborhood was a residence place, but now it's filled with fucking night clubs. What they do is perfectly legal, they play music loud all the night,... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>940108 But to answer your questions as they are, just get a megaphone, and constantly babble annoying things into it while pointing to the place you want to annoy, alternatively record an mp3 and then play it constantly
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