[Boards: 3 / a / aco / adv / an / asp / b / biz / c / cgl / ck / cm / co / d / diy / e / fa / fit / g / gd / gif / h / hc / his / hm / hr / i / ic / int / jp / k / lgbt / lit / m / mlp / mu / n / news / o / out / p / po / pol / qa / r / r9k / s / s4s / sci / soc / sp / t / tg / toy / trash / trv / tv / u / v / vg / vp / vr / w / wg / wsg / wsr / x / y] [Home]
4chanarchives logo
Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 18. page
Images are sometimes not shown due to bandwidth/network issues. Refreshing the page usually helps.

File: getfile.jpg (348 KB, 1280x960) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
348 KB,
Are these still worthy of existence? Is there a modification one could perform to delay their inevitable perishment?
10 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
hell I could use one
I would just sell them $10 a piece on CL if you don't need them and they still work
I set one up to work as a radio in my room. There's nice aesthetics on some of those, especially when you prefer analog radios to digital ones for that comfy feel. Mine in particular is a Sherwood CRD-90; I can't even find a picture of that online. It makes it feel really personal.
Keep your eyes open for a Phillips DC-777 (DIN style) automobile radio. It's an early 1990's vintage unit. It was one of the rare dashmount radios that was AM/FW & Shortwave.

Is it difficult to cut nice smooth curves from MDF?
10 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
Using hand tools that should say. I have no particular machinery.
a little, just sand it down well and you shouldn't have any problems.
Jigsaw do ok though?

File: upgraded lighting.jpg (615 KB, 2477x1196) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
upgraded lighting.jpg
615 KB,
Sup /diy/cks, anyone know if I can substitute in a waterproof solar panel for the one that comes with the set of lights? (see pic)

More questions:
>The 12v solar panel appears to put out 1.26W, but the lights appear to require just 0.7W; will they only draw what they need or will the 12V solar panel melt them?
>Would I be able to splice in some wire between the power source and the first LED? I want to put the panel in a sunny place that will be removed from where I actually want to put the lights, do I need...
Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
4 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
Also, is the panel that comes with the light good enough to support the splicing-in of additional wiring? Would the easiest thing to do in this situation be to build some kind of upgraded housing for the panel that comes with the set of lights? What would be the best material to cover the panel with? Clear plastic like the kind used to frame artwork?
It would probably be easier to start from scratch than to mod some cheap shit

But what about a suitable casing? He'll have to either buy one or build one, with the risk of leaks.

Might as well see if you can hack something up, no need to reinvent the wheel and all that...

File: electromagnet-nail.gif (6 KB, 213x136) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
6 KB,
How much electricity would you have to run through something the size of a nail to support/restrain the weight of a person?
Lets say for electric lock hand cuffs
26 replies and 4 images submitted. Click here to view.
None, if you nail their hands to a wooden board

too soon
It's a fucking shitload of current. Think about a 120V solenoid. As beefed up and torque-y as they get, you could still push it in with your hand. You want something that would mechanically latch into place.

File: IMG_20160129_141030917-min.jpg (1 MB, 3006x5344) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
1 MB,
Currently in the process of repainting and building an old start knockoff I had lying around. (Msrp: around $100)

I know I'd probably be better off just buying a cheap fender, but I wanna see what I can do with this.

Any luthiers or Guitar players have any tips or suggestions? I have yet to decide on all of my new parts, or even how I'll paint it.
Is a new bridge important? I also heard people saying to replace the pots for the controls, so that's a consideration.

Pic related is its original appearance with all the old parts intact.
37 replies and 13 images submitted. Click here to view.
File: _IMG_000000_000000.jpg (2 MB, 5344x3006) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
2 MB, 5344x3006
As for pickups, I was originally planning on getting the fender vintage strat noiseless pickups, but a much cheaper alternative would be better.
Up to here, there was nothing too fishy about this guitars construction.
Budget? What kind of music do you play?
Sorry, should've clarified.

Going for under $100 in terms of new parts.
Probably gonna go for a cheap GFS setof pickups

I use my actually good tele for blues and lead stuff, so hoping to use this for more shoegaze, drone music.

I'll post another pic after work, started peeling the paint off and found something unusual.

File: 20160201_142250.jpg (3 MB, 5312x2988) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
3 MB,
What can i do with this broken smart tv?
22 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
Target practice
Buy another of that exact model and make. Keep that one for parts.
There's okay money to be had by selling parts on ebay. Power supplies and main boards for sure

File: antenna.jpg (76 KB, 800x556) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
76 KB,
I am tired of streaming the superbowl.

What I have right now is a coathanger antenna , VHF/UHF converter, coaxial cable, a vcr, a RCA video out and a projector. in an attempt to get local channels.

The VCR won't work as a converter because it's old as hell.
I believe that i need a converter rather than an old VCR to take the signal coming in from the antenna and bring me footballs.

My question is, would an old cable box work? like something from charter or cox or time warner? something like that? or does that only take in X provider's...
Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
17 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
old boxes are made for analog broadcast signals. The entire US switched to digital several years ago. You're either going to need a newer converter box or a newer TV with a digital converter already in it.

That said I made a similar antenna and the reception is great. It works better than the shitty $15 box/antenna combo my roommate got from walmart.
google the manual for your TV to see if it's capable of receiving digital signals, aka ATSC. if so, use the settings to set it for digital, connect a wire to the RF input (or your coat-hanger monstrosity) and you're good to go.

if not, you need a $30 gadget, an ATSC receiver, like the super cheap DTA1080D. (dont get that one, it's just an example.)
OP here. My main question is can i use an old cable box from 2012 that was given by a cable company as the converter?

hey /diy/

This is my first time posting on this board, I was wondering if there's any way I can build my own weightlifting gym in my backyard?

pic unrelated
7 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
use google before us. That might help.
You are much better off buying a used rack off of craigslist.
Its one of those things that everyone buys, and then it sits around and then you sell for cheap

Youll spend more money and end up with shittier equipment if you diy it.

File: IMG_20160201_131253.jpg (2 MB, 3120x4160) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
2 MB,
Anybody knows what kind of electrical circuit this is?
14 replies and 4 images submitted. Click here to view.
Not exactly sure but that seems like a power supply of some sorts. Where did you find that circuit?
>what kind of potato is this?
- door-coms, alarm, who knows. Try a steady-cam, pull the fuse, see what stops working, or RTFM/instruction sheet bottom left of the mount box.
>2 wires in, 2 wires out
At first glance it looks like a low voltage power supply for accent lighting or comm/security equipment. The board reminds me of the power supply I've installed in large fiber converters.

File: 2659-03.jpg (506 KB, 970x728) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
506 KB,
can someone please explain to me how these things actually work? all the instructions i've found online so far have just left me with more questions than answers

the arduino libraries allow you to daisy-chain them together and address each one individually. how is that possible? from what i understand so far, the only control signal they accept is a 24-bit RGB value. there's no back and forth communication with the microcontroller. each one has only one input and output, so how can they be individually controlled if all they do is accept a value and then hand...
Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
4 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
If you check the datasheet for the ws2811 ic that is used you see that you send three bytes and that sets the first pixel. The next three bytes the first pixel is already set so it sends them to the next in line.
A reset resets everything.

At first I thought it was just a shift register type deal but the datasheet is such shit engrish its one way or the other.

So not exactly addressable, you have to throw everything out and reprogram all of them to change one led
>address each one individually.

Simple. You send a string of 24 bit values to te first LED input. Each 24 bit 'word' is 8 bits each of RGB values. The first LED picks the first 24 bits off the string and sends the rest to the daisychained LEDs. Each one picks 24 bits off and sents the rest on.

So you can set each LED to a unique RGB value. You cannot send a single RGB value down the string addrressed to one LED in the middle. You have to pack the string with at least...
Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
thanks for the responses, it makes a lot more sense to me now.

so if i'm interpreting this correctly, each LED has a 24 bit input buffer that retains its contents temporarily so long as it's receiving a data/clock signal. once the buffer is full, the overflow gets passed to the output until the signal stops, then the buffer automatically clears after a specified period

for example if you had three leds you wanted to first make red, green,...
Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.

File: wallcrack.jpg (1 MB, 2304x1720) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
1 MB,
/diy/ Do you know what this crack in my wall is? It's as the side of the house (semi detached) Home insurance have said that it is not an insurable event and is not subsidence.
29 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
Crack is narrow and even along its length. Its just a crack, they happen. Get a good mason to freshen up your points and replace the damaged bricks and it will be good for years to come.
It's from ground settlement. The slab has sunk slightly and is cracked also.
>is not subsidence.

HAHAHAHAHA! What fucking jews they are. That is classic subsidence. Get a lawyer and have them jewbattle for your insurance. That insurance company is full of shit.

File: $_35.jpg (9 KB, 300x300) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
9 KB,
I got one of these bt recievers to 3.5 for my 1980s car with cassette.
It has a small battery that lasts 4 hours and charges in 1.5.
How improbable would it be, that if I hardwired this to a 5v point on my car so it charges 24/7 it wouldn't drain my battery if I drive daily?
On another note I could add a powerbank to it and have the car charge that when powered on.
Another thing I thought of was removing the battery and simply have it power on when I turn on the radio soldering where the battery would be to some 5v point on the radio (probably the backlight...
Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
23 replies and 6 images submitted. Click here to view.
Pretty trivial except your car is almost certainly 12v. So then you just need a Usb car charger and plug that into your cigarette lighter.
Or get this you just plug in a 2 sided 3.5 jack from phone to cassette player. Skip the middleman. No batteries of moving parts. Its the technological revolution apple doesn't want you to know about.
Bluetooth is a technology ahead of it's time. It may be viable when we get decent super capacitor batteries, but for know it's just a shiny thingy too slow to be useful but to cool for school.
It's mjust a pain to take my phone out of my pocket and connect the 3.5 jack every time I want music.
Right now I soldered the BT chip to my radio so it actually works, the only problem is battery and turning it on every time.

File: 20160201_020952.jpg (481 KB, 2048x1152) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
481 KB,
Anyone keen on helping make me this space more hospitable?
I bought this place 3 years ago and have the kitchen/dining, living, and bath rooms un-bachelorish. But,honestly, I am just stumped in the bedroom. I just got the bed off of the floor last month (and I have a skirt for it somewhere).
When I scoped the place out, they had some sort of fabric lined board against the wall (as a sort of head-board) that had lights (sconce) attached to it. I'm guessing that they were plugged into a socket behind the board thing (not hard wired). I thought that was a good look.
Anyways, I want to get rid of the baby TV, put one at the foot-board wall of the bed, and... that's where I'm stuck. There is a 3/4 bath to the left of that mirror that needs to be put back up on the bedroom door, and a sliding two-door closet running next to it on the same wall.
I'd prefer not having night stands (not a lot of room for them), but I'd like some light besides the overhead (dimmable).
I can't hardwire stuff without massive amounts of cursing, fixall, and tears. I have a drill. And a ladder. I know enough about DIY and home improvement to know that I shouldn't go it alone.
I can show more pics, but it's pretty much this square.
15 replies and 4 images submitted. Click here to view.
Your text is hard to read if you are not trolling, so basically you want us to decorate your room, you need to show us more pictures and tell us the size of the room and the windows and the door and how many people sleep in it, etc
Insufficient data for a meaningful answer.
File: 20160201_024729.jpg (477 KB, 2048x1152) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
477 KB, 2048x1152
sorry, wasn't expecting immediate replies.

>so basically you want us to decorate your room

Well, if you want to or have the time...
Sorry for not enough info. Here's a pic standing in the corner where the CRT TV is. Room is 11' x 12'.

File: 1291692340731.jpg (66 KB, 800x514) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
66 KB,
old thread hit bump limit: >>933576

pastebin: http://pastebin.com/9UgLjyND
355 replies and 83 images submitted. Click here to view.
File: gaming_reciever.jpg (220 KB, 600x431) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
220 KB, 600x431
Comming here because i don't know where else to ask.

My Xbox360 wireless receiver for PC recently died after a few years of use. I searched around and it was most likely a fuse. So i soldered across it, and now it works again.

However, i dont want to fry my USB ports.

Would it be better to plug it into a USB hub -> PC? Do most standard cheapo hubs have a fuse?
our company took on a job of reconditioning an old SCR control system for an oilrig a few years ago.
really old shit. diode matrix cards, relays and everything.

we bought a small batch of metal cap lm741's
they where all good and legit national components, so we ordered much more from the same supplier.
like half of them failed in circuit because the offset pin did nothing, and we had issues all over.
a colleague pulled the cap it, it was a smaller brandless metal op-amp with national cap stuck...
Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
File: amp2.png (47 KB, 1680x852) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
47 KB, 1680x852
So I did what I should have done originally and put this on a breadboard before trying to solder it all together, and figured out how to get rid of the high frequency oscillation. Instead of trying to fuck around with a bunch of caps for local feedback in the voltage gain stage, all I needed was one from the op amp output to the inverting input (C6). -3db fall off is right before 20 kHz, but since it's a bass amp wired to a big woofer it's unlikely I'll need nearly that high response, even. I also had some pretty heavy DC offset on the output (150 mV), but that...
Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.

File: guitarmount.jpg (13 KB, 522x254) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
13 KB,
Hey /diy/

Want to add guitar mounts on the side of stack. I dont want the mounts to be sticking out unless i need them, I want them to be able to fold up and lock in that position when not in use. How do I go about doing that?

Its like the one in the pic, the mount screws into the faceplate so it would have to be added in there between the plate and the mount
2 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.

Buy one of these. Adding something like that looks cheap and tacky and if your amp were ever to fall over(and believe me it happens), It'll take your guitars with it and leave you in tears.

Pages: [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10] [11] [12] [13] [14] [15] [16] [17] [18] [19] [20] [21] [22] [23] [24] [25] [26] [27] [28] [29] [30] [31] [32] [33] [34] [35] [36] [37] [38] [39] [40] [41] [42] [43] [44] [45] [46] [47] [48] [49] [50] [51] [52] [53] [54] [55] [56] [57] [58] [59] [60] [61] [62] [63] [64] [65] [66] [67] [68] [69] [70] [71] [72] [73] [74] [75] [76] [77] [78] [79] [80] [81] [82] [83] [84] [85] [86] [87] [88] [89] [90] [91] [92] [93] [94] [95] [96] [97] [98] [99] [100] [101] [102] [103] [104] [105] [106] [107] [108] [109] [110] [111] [112] [113] [114] [115] [116] [117] [118] [119] [120] [121]
Pages: [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10] [11] [12] [13] [14] [15] [16] [17] [18] [19] [20] [21] [22] [23] [24] [25] [26] [27] [28] [29] [30] [31] [32] [33] [34] [35] [36] [37] [38] [39] [40] [41] [42] [43] [44] [45] [46] [47] [48] [49] [50] [51] [52] [53] [54] [55] [56] [57] [58] [59] [60] [61] [62] [63] [64] [65] [66] [67] [68] [69] [70] [71] [72] [73] [74] [75] [76] [77] [78] [79] [80] [81] [82] [83] [84] [85] [86] [87] [88] [89] [90] [91] [92] [93] [94] [95] [96] [97] [98] [99] [100] [101] [102] [103] [104] [105] [106] [107] [108] [109] [110] [111] [112] [113] [114] [115] [116] [117] [118] [119] [120] [121]

[Boards: 3 / a / aco / adv / an / asp / b / biz / c / cgl / ck / cm / co / d / diy / e / fa / fit / g / gd / gif / h / hc / his / hm / hr / i / ic / int / jp / k / lgbt / lit / m / mlp / mu / n / news / o / out / p / po / pol / qa / r / r9k / s / s4s / sci / soc / sp / t / tg / toy / trash / trv / tv / u / v / vg / vp / vr / w / wg / wsg / wsr / x / y] [Home]
[Boards: 3 / a / aco / adv / an / asp / b / biz / c / cgl / ck / cm / co / d / diy / e / fa / fit / g / gd / gif / h / hc / his / hm / hr / i / ic / int / jp / k / lgbt / lit / m / mlp / mu / n / news / o / out / p / po / pol / qa / r / r9k / s / s4s / sci / soc / sp / t / tg / toy / trash / trv / tv / u / v / vg / vp / vr / w / wg / wsg / wsr / x / y] [Home]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.
This is a 4chan archive - all of the content originated from them. If you need IP information for a Poster - you need to contact them. This website shows only archived content.
If a post contains personal/copyrighted/illegal content you can contact me at wtabusse@gmail.com with that post and thread number and it will be removed as soon as possible.