>>939767 I set one up to work as a radio in my room. There's nice aesthetics on some of those, especially when you prefer analog radios to digital ones for that comfy feel. Mine in particular is a Sherwood CRD-90; I can't even find a picture of that online. It makes it feel really personal.
Sup /diy/cks, anyone know if I can substitute in a waterproof solar panel for the one that comes with the set of lights? (see pic)
More questions: >The 12v solar panel appears to put out 1.26W, but the lights appear to require just 0.7W; will they only draw what they need or will the 12V solar panel melt them? >Would I be able to splice in some wire between the power source and the first LED? I want to put the panel in a sunny place that will be removed from where I actually want to put the lights, do I need... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Also, is the panel that comes with the light good enough to support the splicing-in of additional wiring? Would the easiest thing to do in this situation be to build some kind of upgraded housing for the panel that comes with the set of lights? What would be the best material to cover the panel with? Clear plastic like the kind used to frame artwork?
>>939732 It's a fucking shitload of current. Think about a 120V solenoid. As beefed up and torque-y as they get, you could still push it in with your hand. You want something that would mechanically latch into place.
Currently in the process of repainting and building an old start knockoff I had lying around. (Msrp: around $100)
I know I'd probably be better off just buying a cheap fender, but I wanna see what I can do with this.
Any luthiers or Guitar players have any tips or suggestions? I have yet to decide on all of my new parts, or even how I'll paint it. Is a new bridge important? I also heard people saying to replace the pots for the controls, so that's a consideration.
Pic related is its original appearance with all the old parts intact.
As for pickups, I was originally planning on getting the fender vintage strat noiseless pickups, but a much cheaper alternative would be better. Up to here, there was nothing too fishy about this guitars construction.
What I have right now is a coathanger antenna , VHF/UHF converter, coaxial cable, a vcr, a RCA video out and a projector. in an attempt to get local channels.
The VCR won't work as a converter because it's old as hell. I believe that i need a converter rather than an old VCR to take the signal coming in from the antenna and bring me footballs.
My question is, would an old cable box work? like something from charter or cox or time warner? something like that? or does that only take in X provider's... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
old boxes are made for analog broadcast signals. The entire US switched to digital several years ago. You're either going to need a newer converter box or a newer TV with a digital converter already in it.
That said I made a similar antenna and the reception is great. It works better than the shitty $15 box/antenna combo my roommate got from walmart.
google the manual for your TV to see if it's capable of receiving digital signals, aka ATSC. if so, use the settings to set it for digital, connect a wire to the RF input (or your coat-hanger monstrosity) and you're good to go.
if not, you need a $30 gadget, an ATSC receiver, like the super cheap DTA1080D. (dont get that one, it's just an example.)
>>939674 >2 wires in, 2 wires out At first glance it looks like a low voltage power supply for accent lighting or comm/security equipment. The board reminds me of the power supply I've installed in large fiber converters.
can someone please explain to me how these things actually work? all the instructions i've found online so far have just left me with more questions than answers
the arduino libraries allow you to daisy-chain them together and address each one individually. how is that possible? from what i understand so far, the only control signal they accept is a 24-bit RGB value. there's no back and forth communication with the microcontroller. each one has only one input and output, so how can they be individually controlled if all they do is accept a value and then hand... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>939613 If you check the datasheet for the ws2811 ic that is used you see that you send three bytes and that sets the first pixel. The next three bytes the first pixel is already set so it sends them to the next in line. A reset resets everything.
At first I thought it was just a shift register type deal but the datasheet is such shit engrish its one way or the other.
So not exactly addressable, you have to throw everything out and reprogram all of them to change one led
Simple. You send a string of 24 bit values to te first LED input. Each 24 bit 'word' is 8 bits each of RGB values. The first LED picks the first 24 bits off the string and sends the rest to the daisychained LEDs. Each one picks 24 bits off and sents the rest on.
So you can set each LED to a unique RGB value. You cannot send a single RGB value down the string addrressed to one LED in the middle. You have to pack the string with at least... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>939625 >>939627 thanks for the responses, it makes a lot more sense to me now.
so if i'm interpreting this correctly, each LED has a 24 bit input buffer that retains its contents temporarily so long as it's receiving a data/clock signal. once the buffer is full, the overflow gets passed to the output until the signal stops, then the buffer automatically clears after a specified period
for example if you had three leds you wanted to first make red, green,... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I got one of these bt recievers to 3.5 for my 1980s car with cassette. It has a small battery that lasts 4 hours and charges in 1.5. How improbable would it be, that if I hardwired this to a 5v point on my car so it charges 24/7 it wouldn't drain my battery if I drive daily? On another note I could add a powerbank to it and have the car charge that when powered on. Another thing I thought of was removing the battery and simply have it power on when I turn on the radio soldering where the battery would be to some 5v point on the radio (probably the backlight... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>939591 Or get this you just plug in a 2 sided 3.5 jack from phone to cassette player. Skip the middleman. No batteries of moving parts. Its the technological revolution apple doesn't want you to know about. Bluetooth is a technology ahead of it's time. It may be viable when we get decent super capacitor batteries, but for know it's just a shiny thingy too slow to be useful but to cool for school.
>>939612 It's mjust a pain to take my phone out of my pocket and connect the 3.5 jack every time I want music. Right now I soldered the BT chip to my radio so it actually works, the only problem is battery and turning it on every time.
Anyone keen on helping make me this space more hospitable? I bought this place 3 years ago and have the kitchen/dining, living, and bath rooms un-bachelorish. But,honestly, I am just stumped in the bedroom. I just got the bed off of the floor last month (and I have a skirt for it somewhere). When I scoped the place out, they had some sort of fabric lined board against the wall (as a sort of head-board) that had lights (sconce) attached to it. I'm guessing that they were plugged into a socket behind the board thing (not hard wired). I thought that was a good look. Anyways, I want to get rid of the baby TV, put one at the foot-board wall of the bed, and... that's where I'm stuck. There is a 3/4 bath to the left of that mirror that needs to be put back up on the bedroom door, and a sliding two-door closet running next to it on the same wall. I'd prefer not having night stands (not a lot of room for them), but I'd like some light besides the overhead (dimmable). I can't hardwire stuff without massive amounts of cursing, fixall, and tears. I have a drill. And a ladder. I know enough about DIY and home improvement to know that I shouldn't go it alone. I can show more pics, but it's pretty much this square.
>>939525 Your text is hard to read if you are not trolling, so basically you want us to decorate your room, you need to show us more pictures and tell us the size of the room and the windows and the door and how many people sleep in it, etc
>>939511 our company took on a job of reconditioning an old SCR control system for an oilrig a few years ago. really old shit. diode matrix cards, relays and everything.
we bought a small batch of metal cap lm741's they where all good and legit national components, so we ordered much more from the same supplier. like half of them failed in circuit because the offset pin did nothing, and we had issues all over. a colleague pulled the cap it, it was a smaller brandless metal op-amp with national cap stuck... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
So I did what I should have done originally and put this on a breadboard before trying to solder it all together, and figured out how to get rid of the high frequency oscillation. Instead of trying to fuck around with a bunch of caps for local feedback in the voltage gain stage, all I needed was one from the op amp output to the inverting input (C6). -3db fall off is right before 20 kHz, but since it's a bass amp wired to a big woofer it's unlikely I'll need nearly that high response, even. I also had some pretty heavy DC offset on the output (150 mV), but that... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Want to add guitar mounts on the side of stack. I dont want the mounts to be sticking out unless i need them, I want them to be able to fold up and lock in that position when not in use. How do I go about doing that?
Its like the one in the pic, the mount screws into the faceplate so it would have to be added in there between the plate and the mount
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