>>1080046 I tried to make it vague for many open ended options. The meaningful answer would hopefully someone who imagines building a cool camoflaged cottage/shack/outpost on the side of a mountain/cliff where there might not necessarily be any soil. Just rocks jutting out with some trees around to make 2x4s and a few sandbags for fun and a piece of scrap corrigated steel. (Only enough soil for 5-10 sandbags). Think old mines and their scaffolding.
So I'm gunna be dad. (no need to congratulate me) I thought I'd have a go at making a cot. Design pic related. I've got most of the timber already. Using mostly recycled hardwoods (Australian).
Basically the design is 4 frames that will screw together so that it can be disassembled, and if this situation arises again in the future we can drag this thing out from under the bed and put it back together.
I was thinking it would be nice to do some interesting joins for the frames themselves, but I never really know which joint to choose for... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
As far as joints in each individual section I'd think mortise and tenon would be about as far as I would take it. I mean you want to get extra fancy do a pegged version on each corner facing out, sanded flat.
It looks like you might be using dowels on the long sides? I'd reconsider that unless tightly spaced. Kids like to try and get their body parts through there, a square/rectangle is going to be better. I'd visit the local store and check out a manufactured crib to make sure you are getting... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1079393 >> Look up this https://www.google.bg/search?sourceid=chrome-psyapi2&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8&client=ubuntu&q=why%20hydrogen%20is%20not%20used%20as%20a%20fuel&oq=why%20&aqs=chrome.0.69i59j69i65j69i57j0l3.1204j0j7
Also consider that to extract 100 w of power you need to spend at least 101 w of power (at best, but you will most likely spend 150+) and by the time you use that power the hydrogen will escape the container.
That being fact, you are better... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I want to make a heat-resistant putty. I'm using a thermistor to measure the temperature of a metal block for a laboratory experiment. It's at the bottom of a blind hole about half an inch deep, just wide enough to fit the thermistor, which is the free-hanging type like this one. The block heats up to a maximum of 150 degrees C. I don't want to use JB weld or similar because we might want to put in a different thermistor, or swap out the block for a different one while keeping the same thermistor. So I want to make some kind of a play-doh-like putty that... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Does it need to be solid at 150C? If not, silicone oil or heat transfer wax would work. Or if quick response isn't the most important thing ever, you could use spring to press the bead against the metal.
Hey diy, asked O but didn't get a ton of info. My '10 escape has a piston ring that's going/gone bad. Compression test fails with 111 psi in the bad one and 170ish in the good ones. It's a 2.5 4cyl non hybrid. I would like to fix it instead of getting a new car, but I'm only mildly experienced in diy auto. Has anyone done an engine swap on this body style? Any recommendations for engine suppliers? Anything I should watch out for if I do the swap myself?
It's got 185k miles on it, but it still drives like a champ. Only noticed the misfire at idle, but I regularly drive over 200 miles a day, and can't take the risk of a total breakdown. I'd prefer not to get a newer escape because I think the body style is cheap, and less functional. Not to mention anything with decent milage is pretty expensive still. First major problem with this car, and I love it to death.
Hey guys I built this a month or so ago and took some pictures of it while I was building it, thought you guys might be interested. I'll start with concreting laminated posts into holes around the patio, this sucked.
right motorbike info,, i have a shitty motorbike with a 16inch rear wheel,, the plan is to make it a bit of a classic scrambler for tossing about but still look and ride nice,,i want to put a 18 inch rear on it,,will this affect the gear ratios ?? will it be fine to put on or will i need to do a bit of fettling, wi;; it just be sluggish to start off? lose top end?im so confused, also general bike queries welcome
>>1078556 >Going from a 16" to 18" rear, same profile tyre. >Will it affect gear ratios. Yes, you've increase the size of the wheel by 12.5%, making the gearing taller overall. >Will it be fine? Probably, so long as the wheel fits and doesn't rub on anything. I guess make sure the wheel is the same width as the old one. >Will it be sluggish, lose top end? Taller gearing... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Any train guys here? Dug out this rail a couple years ago on my uncles ranch, it's about 49 n half inches long, just wanted to know if the writing means anything before I cut it into an anvil on my schools million dollar bandsaw
>>1077412 I could be wrong but the only times I've saw rail with marker or paint writing on the web, is from the Sperry people. I would also see if you have access to a rail or concrete saw and then get some appropriate blades to cut it with. Allison diamond blades are what we use.
Pic related is a cross section cut showing an internal defect that's not visible from the outside.
I'm a german electrician and so it's no coincidence my bag is nearly filled with german tools only.
- Weidmüller Stripax wirestripper - various Knipex pliers - some old pliers for the dirty jobs - Proxxon wrenches - electronic calipers - Bosch nutset - UT 139C multimeter in a Beha case - various Wiha screwdrivers
so these are my everyday tools.
also just ordered my Beha 2100-Gamma, can't wait to get my hands on it.
I'm having a problem with my viewing of videos and gifs. I recently bought a new computer, with intel hd graphics and a GeForce 1060 graphics card, i5 3.6 - 4.2 GHz, generally a pretty decent gaming computer.
Now, when I'm on some website where there are gifs (like 4chan), some (1/4) gifs show up with fucked up colours, which follow the picture. When the gif resets it's completely fine, but the whole right clock, show controls, reset, is annoying. I wonder, is it anything obvious I have missed when setting up the computer? Does... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
In context, the mold he typically says to use soap and water on is surface mold. It can be washed away and cleaned up without the use of harsh chemicals. Bleach is like trying to fight a kitchen fire with an atomic bomb.
In the case where the mold has gotten into things like fibre board, wall board or deeper than just the surface in general, then he's a proponent of replacement vs cleaning.
/diy/ i poured some fake blood on my concrete sidewalk for halloween and now it's not coming off, what fucking do i scrubbed with with hot soapy water and a little bit came off but not much tomorrow i'll try power washing, if that doesn't work maybe i'll use some bleach
What paint/method should I use to paint these arm rests on my futon?
I'm not worried about making small mistakes or it being perfect, the rest of my room has black furniture and I'd like it to match. I'm worried about what paint could wipe off when people rest their arm on it.
>>1078420 Ya what I didn't show in the picture is how shot it is, I've cleaned it but it was recovered from my brothers college apartment.. so it's got marks and what not all around. It looks fine but I'd rather it match all my other IKEA crap.
Hey /diy/, I and my brother are designing a sex robot, and we're considering making a simple electromagnet actuator composed of 4 opposing coiled wires sitting on plastic(?) boards with a pivot hinge in the middle. One side would be activated at a time to repel the boards from that side.
For those that know anything about electromagnets, do you think this wouldn't work for any reason? It's a really simple idea and it worries me that I can't find it anywhere.
The benefits of using something like this is that it's cheap and could reverse... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I need to waterproof my busted-ass boots because I started a job that gets them soaked.
About three months ago, I started work in a fiberglass plant, and my boots were still in decent condition when I started. They've pretty much been worn to rawhide now, and the toes are wearing down to the metal. I had to quit the fiberglass job because I was having trouble breathing, and I got a new job at a shop grinding edges on auto glass. Problem is, the floors are completely covered in water, it's 45 degrees outside, and my feet are completely soaked through. I don't... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Has anyone on /diy/ ever taught themself how to do things from scratch? My dad died when I was really young so I didnt have a father figure, and I dont know how to do shit but I want to learn for my children one day. Whats a good place to start?
Hey /diy/ need some help on where to find electronic components. The radio shack in my town closed and im pretty sure thats the only place that would sell components. I dont really wanna order parts online but that seems like the only place that would have them. Are there any places that you guys know that I wouldnt think of?
I used to work at Radioshack myself. Being that I have been asked this very question many times, let me just say that Radioshack isnt exactly what it used to be. They arnt very focused on selling important, key electronic components. They sell basic things such as Resistors, LEDs, capacitors, diodes, generic transistors and so on.
On the other hand. If you arnt in a rush to wait for you components to be delivered to your house. I might suggest going to some online sights other than amazon. Someone in here already said ebay, thats a good one. Personally I myself would... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I will be given a long sheet of 3/4" plate glass. I want to use it for a coffee table, but I need it cut to length. would a glass scoring/cutting tool from a hardware store be sufficient to cut 3/4" glass? Alternatively, would an auto glass shop be able to cut it for me?
Hey guys, my studio shares an door with the rest of a house. It is kept locked. At night, the landlord sometimes forgets to turn the light off, and the light shines around the door to light up my room.
I can see where they tried to use foam strip but the gaps are huge, should I just get some thick duct tape to block the light? Would there be an issue with taping a door shut?
put pic related around the door jamb and force the door shut into it. it's thick stuff and the rubber sponge (as pictured) is a lot more dense and robust than the easily compressible/smushable weather stripping variety. don't just duct tape the door shut, it'll rip the paint and shit off and leave horrible residue. also a pic of the door and/or the light problem would illustrate wtf you're talking about a lot better
>>1079616 I can provide a pic in a few hours, but ideally if I could apply the fix without opening the door that would be ideal. I have a feeling they are leaving the light on to harass my sleep. For now I have applied silver duct tape so I do not have bright florecent light shining into my room.
So I snagged this marble chess set for $9 at the local thrift. Board measures 16"x16" I'd like to make a wood base, frame, or something to protect the board from who-knows-what-kind-of-accidents. It's a really nice chess board, it'd be a shame if someone were to break it.
>>1079374 >I'd like to make a wood base, frame, or something to protect the board from who-knows-what-kind-of-accidents.
Skills: everything but woodworking. Tools: hand tools, dremel, etc. Thoughts: would like to avoid "popsicle stick and glue" picture frame. Honestly, just a wood border is what I have in mind and the skills to do, but I'm looking for anyone else's thoughts on the subject.
See how this board sits in its (probably) wood base? Minimal is... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Cut a square out of anyfucking thing. Masonite if you're cheap, or birch plywood. Size it to the same dimensions as the board, or like a 1/32 of an inch over.
Then get some moulding from the hardware store--this can be a few cents a foot for simple quarter round, or you can spend more for really fancy stuff. The thickness of the moulding will determine whether the lip sits below the top surface of the board (like in your pic), or above it.
Make miter cuts and frame it around the square of wood or whatever. Stick it together with regular wood glue and clamp... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I have a rental garage I want to put a 8'x8' weightlifting platform with power rack in. However the platform needs to be level and the slope of the surface is uneven (inconsistent rise/fall). It's the highest in the top left corner to a low point of a little over 3" drop in the bottom right, and all over inbetween.
I have no woodworking or /diy/ experience and I've let that keep me from getting this done for much too long. What is the most practical solution here that I will still be able to pack up and leave the garage as it was?
So, my actual desktop is way too small for my needs and I'm designing a one with my own. I plan to make the countertop with two glued plywood pieces of about 18 mm, to make a more tick countertop, prevent a lot of bending and all that jazz. Then stain and put a nice wood edge to cover the ugly end grain of the plywood. Then I had this crazy idea: I found that used parquetry is sold at really cheap prices. For the quantity I need, really it's cheap (about 7 dollars per square meter, very cheap for this third world sink hole) Do you think that it's worthwhile... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Plywood veneer isn't all that strong, only staining it is not going to give you a very durable desktop.
I used some wood filler to cover the sides (some bizarre shit which was powdery until you applied pressure to it). Painted the whole thing in acrylic paint and finished it with a poly (-urethane) clear coat.
If you want the best durability&chemical resistance finish with a two component poly, although I didn't. Poly is expensive enough.
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