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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 19. page
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How do you make a foundation on a rock for a wood structure?

Bonus points ...howdoyoumakeafoundation IN A TREE??
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Insufficient data for a meaningful anwser.
I tried to make it vague for many open ended options. The meaningful answer would hopefully someone who imagines building a cool camoflaged cottage/shack/outpost on the side of a mountain/cliff where there might not necessarily be any soil. Just rocks jutting out with some trees around to make 2x4s and a few sandbags for fun and a piece of scrap corrigated steel. (Only enough soil for 5-10 sandbags). Think old mines and their scaffolding.
hang yourself on that rocks hillside

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Hey there I'm looking to get a vintage Russian sovtek small stone but I'm not a big fan of the tone suck or volume drop. How easy is it to switch the footswitch to a true bypass switch?
10 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
if you have to ask, it's beyond your abilities.
I've just heard that the circuit is pretty messy and im not familiar with their circuits.
install a 3pdt footswitch instead of the normal one. Check google how to wire a 3pdt switch

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I don't know if this is the right place but where can I learn about garden keeping and growing fruit, fruit varieties and such? Any books or things of the type?
6 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
There used to be pretty good threads here.
Everyone just goes on >>>/out/ to talk about it now.
Much better suited board
What he said ^
Did you just assume my fucking gender? Reeeeeeeeeeeeee

So I'm gunna be dad. (no need to congratulate me)
I thought I'd have a go at making a cot. Design pic related. I've got most of the timber already.
Using mostly recycled hardwoods (Australian).

Basically the design is 4 frames that will screw together so that it can be disassembled, and if this situation arises again in the future we can drag this thing out from under the bed and put it back together.

I was thinking it would be nice to do some interesting joins for the frames themselves, but I never really know which joint to choose for...
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>current standards
I'd highly suggest looking at other designs and doing some research about the consumer protection laws surrounding cribs

may seem unnecessary, but you want to do everything possible to make sure kiddo will be safe in it

>interesting joins
I don't know about "interesting", but it seems like mortise and tenon joints would be best

they wouldn't exactly...
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I'm remilling it myself. I have jointer and a thicknesser. This isn't some pallet wood thing.

There's four sides and a base.
This is two of the sides.

As far as joints in each individual section I'd think mortise and tenon would be about as far as I would take it. I mean you want to get extra fancy do a pegged version on each corner facing out, sanded flat.

It looks like you might be using dowels on the long sides? I'd reconsider that unless tightly spaced. Kids like to try and get their body parts through there, a square/rectangle is going to be better. I'd visit the local store and check out a manufactured crib to make sure you are getting...
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If I'm building a robot that needs some major power.
Would a hydrogen fuel cell be good?

Specifically I'm looking at combining a 300 watt fuel cell with a 20Ah 48v battery with some capacitors to smooth out any large power usage spikes.
22 replies and 3 images submitted. Click here to view.
You're going to kill yourself

You have no idea how difficult it is to seal hydrogen

Npt+ptfe don't work

You need an xray perfect weld at all joints and even then the hydrogen will find a way out
I think he just intends to buy one online, not build it himself. He's using the cell to power something else that he's building himself.
>> Look up this https://www.google.bg/search?sourceid=chrome-psyapi2&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8&client=ubuntu&q=why%20hydrogen%20is%20not%20used%20as%20a%20fuel&oq=why%20&aqs=chrome.0.69i59j69i65j69i57j0l3.1204j0j7

Also consider that to extract 100 w of power you need to spend at least 101 w of power (at best, but you will most likely spend 150+) and by the time you use that power the hydrogen will escape the container.

That being fact, you are better...
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I want to make a heat-resistant putty. I'm using a thermistor to measure the temperature of a metal block for a laboratory experiment. It's at the bottom of a blind hole about half an inch deep, just wide enough to fit the thermistor, which is the free-hanging type like this one. The block heats up to a maximum of 150 degrees C.
I don't want to use JB weld or similar because we might want to put in a different thermistor, or swap out the block for a different one while keeping the same thermistor.
So I want to make some kind of a play-doh-like putty that...
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Does it need to be solid at 150C? If not, silicone oil or heat transfer wax would work.
Or if quick response isn't the most important thing ever, you could use spring to press the bead against the metal.
Quick response is important, and yes, it needs to stay solid. The thermistor goes up into the hole from the bottom and if the putty melts, it'll fall out.
Filling the cavity with the thermistor with thermal paste using a thermoplast as plug might work.

Hey diy, asked O but didn't get a ton of info. My '10 escape has a piston ring that's going/gone bad. Compression test fails with 111 psi in the bad one and 170ish in the good ones. It's a 2.5 4cyl non hybrid. I would like to fix it instead of getting a new car, but I'm only mildly experienced in diy auto. Has anyone done an engine swap on this body style? Any recommendations for engine suppliers? Anything I should watch out for if I do the swap myself?
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It's got 185k miles on it, but it still drives like a champ. Only noticed the misfire at idle, but I regularly drive over 200 miles a day, and can't take the risk of a total breakdown. I'd prefer not to get a newer escape because I think the body style is cheap, and less functional. Not to mention anything with decent milage is pretty expensive still. First major problem with this car, and I love it to death.
Go to the automotive board lovely
If it was mine I would just drive it till she blows, then toss in a $200 junk yard motor. Might run another 50,000 miles with low compression.
Do these have head gasket issues?

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Hey guys I built this a month or so ago and took some pictures of it while I was building it, thought you guys might be interested. I'll start with concreting laminated posts into holes around the patio, this sucked.
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Posts in place.
More posts. The ones at the back are bolted into the retaining wall by the way.
Rafter timbers going up. Screwed together with big dick screw/bolts.

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right motorbike info,, i have a shitty motorbike with a 16inch rear wheel,, the plan is to make it a bit of a classic scrambler for tossing about but still look and ride nice,,i want to put a 18 inch rear on it,,will this affect the gear ratios ?? will it be fine to put on or will i need to do a bit of fettling, wi;; it just be sluggish to start off? lose top end?im so confused,
also general bike queries welcome
8 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
>Going from a 16" to 18" rear, same profile tyre.
>Will it affect gear ratios.
Yes, you've increase the size of the wheel by 12.5%, making the gearing taller overall.
>Will it be fine?
Probably, so long as the wheel fits and doesn't rub on anything. I guess make sure the wheel is the same width as the old one.
>Will it be sluggish, lose top end?
Taller gearing...
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This is why you can swap sprockets.

His info is correct, just adding.
Forgot about the sprocket. I was thinking along the lines of changing car wheels.

While your putting your larger wheel, increase the size of the rear sprocket as well. That will get your gearing back into factory spec.

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Does anyone know what kind of wood is this? Mohogany? Alder? idk.. pls help
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Fender Strats have usually alder or ash bodys, for a crispy sound.
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Not posting the meme version because the book's actually relevant.
Jesus Fucking Christ
Please, no tone wood shit

>alder or ash bodys, for a crispy sound

Not on a solid body, the species of wood has zero impact on sound in a solid body, never has, never will

Now, if you want to make that argument about hollow body guitars, electric or acoustic, well then I agree it does make a difference, but on a solid body, it doesn't mean shit

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So what tools are you guys hoping to get this Black Friday?

Personally I want to get a miter saw.

Post Black Friday ads and deals here as they start showing up.
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I'm hoping to go to home depot and get whatever makita shit they mark down 5% after they marked it up 50% last month

I can't believe these deals!
>going to stores for IRL black friday

good goy
Black Friday is a scam. I don't buy any thing

Any train guys here?
Dug out this rail a couple years ago on my uncles ranch, it's about 49 n half inches long, just wanted to know if the writing means anything before I cut it into an anvil on my schools million dollar bandsaw
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I think it's a Sperry defect mark, I.e. an internal abnormality in the rail that could break when a train runs over it.
I ,
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I could be wrong but the only times I've saw rail with marker or paint writing on the web, is from the Sperry people.
I would also see if you have access to a rail or concrete saw and then get some appropriate blades to cut it with. Allison diamond blades are what we use.

Pic related is a cross section cut showing an internal defect that's not visible from the outside.
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And this is what the markings typically look like.

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Topic is above, so post 'em!

About my box:

I'm a german electrician and so it's no coincidence my bag is nearly filled with german tools only.

- Weidmüller Stripax wirestripper
- various Knipex pliers
- some old pliers for the dirty jobs
- Proxxon wrenches
- electronic calipers
- Bosch nutset
- UT 139C multimeter in a Beha case
- various Wiha screwdrivers

so these are my everyday tools.

also just ordered my Beha 2100-Gamma, can't wait to get my hands on it.

if there are any questions, just ask away!
43 replies and 6 images submitted. Click here to view.

forgot to mention that everything is stored in my Parat Silver toolcase.
How do you eat würst with any of that, Kraut?
Currently training to be an electrician in England any tips or advice (especially for the maths side of it?)

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Hi /diy/

I'm having a problem with my viewing of videos and gifs.
I recently bought a new computer, with intel hd graphics and a GeForce 1060 graphics card, i5 3.6 - 4.2 GHz, generally a pretty decent gaming computer.

Now, when I'm on some website where there are gifs (like 4chan), some (1/4) gifs show up with fucked up colours, which follow the picture. When the gif resets it's completely fine, but the whole right clock, show controls, reset, is annoying.
I wonder, is it anything obvious I have missed when setting up the computer? Does...
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10 replies and 3 images submitted. Click here to view.
Does YouTube etc fuck up too? Have you tried an alternative video cable or monitor?
Are gifs playing before they are fully loaded?

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I'm watching one of Mike Holmes' shows because there's nothing else on at this hour of the morning. He just said never to use bleach on mold, only soap and water. What the fuck is he on about?
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Different strokes for different folks. Just soap and water will work, but it's not the only way to get the job done.

In context, the mold he typically says to use soap and water on is surface mold. It can be washed away and cleaned up without the use of harsh chemicals. Bleach is like trying to fight a kitchen fire with an atomic bomb.

In the case where the mold has gotten into things like fibre board, wall board or deeper than just the surface in general, then he's a proponent of replacement vs cleaning.
I would be more interested in replacement than cleaning if I was getting paid to do the work too

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Anyone know where i can find steel pipes that fit snug around 1/2 in steel pipe (should be 0.840 inches inner diameter)?
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pour molten steel up your butt. that will fit nice and tight around the 1/2 inch pipe. make sure to load the shell first (<.|.|.<)
Don't make a supressor

Different pipes are measured differently 1/2" conduit is ID measured, but black pipe is npt threaded to be 1/2" OD.

Take your pipe to home depot and start testing different shit.
i know nigga, i literally said im looking for specifically 0.84 in inner diameter pipe. Also, it aint a supressor nigga

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I want to make a good proper plague doctors mask but i dont really know where to begin.

I have some leather working experience but not enough to make one on my own and "how to make plague doctor mask" just comes up with shitty Halloween masks.

Any advice?
10 replies and 3 images submitted. Click here to view.
mill it from a solid piece of leather

Probably with a lot of trial and error.

The usuall. Make template out of paper. Then shape the leather.

To be fair, i tried doing something like that, but gave up because i failed at making the template and i was just getting frustrated.
Do this and post results

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/diy/ i poured some fake blood on my concrete sidewalk for halloween and now it's not coming off, what fucking do
i scrubbed with with hot soapy water and a little bit came off but not much
tomorrow i'll try power washing, if that doesn't work maybe i'll use some bleach
30 replies and 3 images submitted. Click here to view.
Post an image of the surface newbie
Good job, you worked it in my scrubbing, now power washing won't work, and bleach will leave huge whiter spots.
try baking soda and hot water

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What paint/method should I use to paint these arm rests on my futon?

I'm not worried about making small mistakes or it being perfect, the rest of my room has black furniture and I'd like it to match. I'm worried about what paint could wipe off when people rest their arm on it.
6 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
I personally like the natural wood look, but that's just me.
Ya what I didn't show in the picture is how shot it is, I've cleaned it but it was recovered from my brothers college apartment.. so it's got marks and what not all around. It looks fine but I'd rather it match all my other IKEA crap.

Just put on a poly clear coat after you've painted it.

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Hey /diy/,
I and my brother are designing a sex robot, and we're considering making a simple electromagnet actuator composed of 4 opposing coiled wires sitting on plastic(?) boards with a pivot hinge in the middle. One side would be activated at a time to repel the boards from that side.

For those that know anything about electromagnets, do you think this wouldn't work for any reason? It's a really simple idea and it worries me that I can't find it anywhere.

The benefits of using something like this is that it's cheap and could reverse...
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Btw, please forgive that it looks ridiculous. I think it would work with EM Shielding and a different shape. Obviously, it would need something between the coils so they don't touch, as well.
What part of the sex robot is this supposed to be for?
There would be maybe 3 or so at each joint. Small ones for digits on the hands, and large ones for limbs. The spine will be straight for the first design.

It might not be able to supply enough force for a large body, but it would allow a small teddy-bear sized prototype to be cheap.

I need to waterproof my busted-ass boots because I started a job that gets them soaked.

About three months ago, I started work in a fiberglass plant, and my boots were still in decent condition when I started. They've pretty much been worn to rawhide now, and the toes are wearing down to the metal. I had to quit the fiberglass job because I was having trouble breathing, and I got a new job at a shop grinding edges on auto glass. Problem is, the floors are completely covered in water, it's 45 degrees outside, and my feet are completely soaked through. I don't...
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Get hydrophobic spray coating like NeverWet.

FlexSeal isn't a gimmick but not sure it actually flexes enough for shoes.
Thanks for the idea, man. I'm about to head out to work, so I'll hit the hardware store and see what they have.
Also NeverWet makes a product for shoes specifically. $15 on amazon right now. I'm sure WalMart or a hardware store has it.

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Has anyone on /diy/ ever taught themself how to do things from scratch? My dad died when I was really young so I didnt have a father figure, and I dont know how to do shit but I want to learn for my children one day. Whats a good place to start?
28 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
Necessity is the mother of invention. Look at things that you need around the house or are working on that the proverbial "real man" ought to be able to do like plumbing and woodwork.

YouTube is a great resource to find out how and then go for it!
That's depressing.

I've learned basic electrical and household upkeep from my dad, but most of my electrical and mechanical knowledge comes from my job. In other words, get a better job.
Mate there are enough online resources available that as long as you have half a brain in your head, the right tools and are willing to have a go, then you are golden.

Like the other poster said, pick something that needs to be done around the house and start there.

I taught my self how to service my bike, strip it to pieces and build it back up again.

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Hey /diy/ need some help on where to find electronic components. The radio shack in my town closed and im pretty sure thats the only place that would sell components. I dont really wanna order parts online but that seems like the only place that would have them. Are there any places that you guys know that I wouldnt think of?
26 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
For general stuff I need much off I just order from China via eBay. Resistors, LEDs, capacitors, diodes, generic transistors and so on, all dirt cheap
when you buy at least a hundred or so.

For more specialized stuff/when I need something fast/quality I use a local supplier, since I'm from Germany that won't help you tho.
I hack my stuff out of old electronics.
Un-solder components and reuse them out of about everything I find. In some cases you can rewrite / flash a CPU in a device with the right interface.
I used to work at Radioshack myself. Being that I have been asked this very question many times, let me just say that Radioshack isnt exactly what it used to be. They arnt very focused on selling important, key electronic components. They sell basic things such as Resistors, LEDs, capacitors, diodes, generic transistors and so on.

On the other hand. If you arnt in a rush to wait for you components to be delivered to your house. I might suggest going to some online sights other than amazon. Someone in here already said ebay, thats a good one. Personally I myself would...
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I will be given a long sheet of 3/4" plate glass. I want to use it for a coffee table, but I need it cut to length. would a glass scoring/cutting tool from a hardware store be sufficient to cut 3/4" glass? Alternatively, would an auto glass shop be able to cut it for me?
14 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
What's stopping you approaching an actual glazier?
If you're using tempered glass, which is the only safe option for a glass tabletop, then you can't cut it. Autoglass is tempered so they can't help you since the order all their glass to size.
This is very important op. Make sure it's tempered.

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Hey guys, my studio shares an door with the rest of a house. It is kept locked. At night, the landlord sometimes forgets to turn the light off, and the light shines around the door to light up my room.

I can see where they tried to use foam strip but the gaps are huge, should I just get some thick duct tape to block the light? Would there be an issue with taping a door shut?
11 replies and 5 images submitted. Click here to view.
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put pic related around the door jamb and force the door shut into it. it's thick stuff and the rubber sponge (as pictured) is a lot more dense and robust than the easily compressible/smushable weather stripping variety. don't just duct tape the door shut, it'll rip the paint and shit off and leave horrible residue. also a pic of the door and/or the light problem would illustrate wtf you're talking about a lot better
I can provide a pic in a few hours, but ideally if I could apply the fix without opening the door that would be ideal. I have a feeling they are leaving the light on to harass my sleep. For now I have applied silver duct tape so I do not have bright florecent light shining into my room.
Update; silver duct tape does not fully block light. Guess no sleep for me tonight. Or should I go buy more duct tape?

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So I snagged this marble chess set for $9 at the local thrift.
Board measures 16"x16"
I'd like to make a wood base, frame, or something to protect the board from who-knows-what-kind-of-accidents.
It's a really nice chess board, it'd be a shame if someone were to break it.
7 replies and 3 images submitted. Click here to view.
Are you asking us how to break the chess boards legs? What's the question? What tools and skills do you have? What's your budget?
>I'd like to make a wood base, frame, or something to protect the board from who-knows-what-kind-of-accidents.

Skills: everything but woodworking.
Tools: hand tools, dremel, etc.
Thoughts: would like to avoid "popsicle stick and glue" picture frame. Honestly, just a wood border is what I have in mind and the skills to do, but I'm looking for anyone else's thoughts on the subject.

See how this board sits in its (probably) wood base? Minimal is...
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Cut a square out of anyfucking thing. Masonite if you're cheap, or birch plywood. Size it to the same dimensions as the board, or like a 1/32 of an inch over.

Then get some moulding from the hardware store--this can be a few cents a foot for simple quarter round, or you can spend more for really fancy stuff. The thickness of the moulding will determine whether the lip sits below the top surface of the board (like in your pic), or above it.

Make miter cuts and frame it around the square of wood or whatever. Stick it together with regular wood glue and clamp...
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>using black caulk
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Thanks for the laugh mate
Thanks for the laugh mate
but black caulk doesn't crack

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I live in a house with people. What's the most cost effective way of not hearing them?
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I have a rental garage I want to put a 8'x8' weightlifting platform with power rack in. However the platform needs to be level and the slope of the surface is uneven (inconsistent rise/fall). It's the highest in the top left corner to a low point of a little over 3" drop in the bottom right, and all over inbetween.

I have no woodworking or /diy/ experience and I've let that keep me from getting this done for much too long. What is the most practical solution here that I will still be able to pack up and leave the garage as it was?
7 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
Did you not get an acceptable response in your last thread?
>no skills no experience

get some lego and lay them out on a grid, add blocks to each point until all are level, then put a plank of drywall over it

Sand to even out the floor, OSB to make a new floor.

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So, my actual desktop is way too small for my needs and I'm designing a one with my own. I plan to make the countertop with two glued plywood pieces of about 18 mm, to make a more tick countertop, prevent a lot of bending and all that jazz. Then stain and put a nice wood edge to cover the ugly end grain of the plywood.
Then I had this crazy idea: I found that used parquetry is sold at really cheap prices. For the quantity I need, really it's cheap (about 7 dollars per square meter, very cheap for this third world sink hole)
Do you think that it's worthwhile...
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Looks like shit to me.

Plywood veneer isn't all that strong, only staining it is not going to give you a very durable desktop.

I used some wood filler to cover the sides (some bizarre shit which was powdery until you applied pressure to it). Painted the whole thing in acrylic paint and finished it with a poly (-urethane) clear coat.

If you want the best durability&chemical resistance finish with a two component poly, although I didn't. Poly is expensive enough.
What's the problem with the plywood anon?
I understood now. And no. I never planed to use what you call "plywood veener" even less considering that crazy idea of mine.

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