I would like to install a hidden push button switch to override the immobiliser on my car. Reason being is it is a key fob style (pic related)that you push into a receptacle to disarm immobiliser and it gives me the shits
Bonus points if I can retain functionality of the immobiliser as its law over here to sell a car with a functioning immobiliser.
move the antenna that is the receptacle to under the dash somewhere. Tape your black fob to the antenna in such a way that its always 'connected'. you need to test the car starting immo symbol goes off
I live in an apt that has an enclosed hallway. It fucking stinks in the hallway from people smoking in it. Is there a way to make my door seal better. It's a wood door and carpet in both sides. Not an actual door frame with the metal bottom part like on most houses
>>937694 Yep. door seal tape is gonna be your go to. If door is an interior hollow core door, wouldn't suggest a door sweep. you should be able to get away with seal tape for the sides and top and a draft snake or rolled up towel to seal the bottom. Honestly, just rat out your roommates to the landlord. Landlords fucking HATE smokers, discolors walls, ash ruins carpets, they tend to litter butts everywhere, and the smell is expensive to remove. Like tear out drywall and insulation and replace and repaint expensive. So... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
After years of apartment living, the wife and I are finally moving into a big-boy house. I want to start investing in some decent tools that will last for a little while but not break the bank.
The first one I think I'd like to bring home is a table saw. Any suggestions as far as what brands to avoid, models to consider, or if a certain tool has been especially good to you that you can recommend to a new buyer?
I guess what I'm really asking is what someone starting a tool collection should prioritize
This is an easy one, I guess... I recently started building circuits for fun and I am actually really bad at it, I guess.
I have got this RGB LED: http://files.voelkner.de/175000-199999/185388-da-01-en-FULL_COLOR_RGB_LED_KLAR.pdf
And I have the following problems:
1. How am I supposed to know what colors are on which pin, with the help of this manual? The figures on the first page are showing the 6 pins, and I think pin 5 and 6 are GND. Since the LED has 2x blue and 1x red and 1x green, the 2 pins that are labeled MB are blue, I guess? And logically G stands for green? So E = red? Am I right with my assumptions? How am I supposed to know for sure?
2. In the table "Electrical / Optical Characteristics at TA=25°C" it says that the blue light needs a forward voltage of 2.0 volts. Green needs 2.2 volts and blue 3.8 volts. But there are 2 times blue? Does every blue pin need 3.8 volts, or do I need to divide by 2 (every blue pin 1.9 volts)?
3. The LED is clear. In order to see the full color spectrum, do I need to use a diffused one?
I hope you can help me with my questions! Thanks for reading.
blue pins need 3.8v each the chips inside should be close enough that it will look pretty white but if you look closely you might be able to pick out the individual chips everything else is correct e is probably efficient red or something. the wavelength chart confirms mb and g are common sense.
asked in another thread yesterday but nobody answered so lets try this again,
I don't know much about electronics. I'm curious about t8 ledtubes and have aquired 3. I have a cable with wich I can hook one of the lamps straight to a multisocket. is there a cable with wich I can connect a further tube to the first one , so both work, or do I have to feed the second one back into the socket.
also, is there a cable equivalent that I can use to hook one up to the cables that come from the wall , like I would normaly hook up a lamp ( sorry for the... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>937495 There are two different types of LED tubes:
Ones that behave like a fluorescent bulb, so you can just put them in tube fittings and they work
Ones that just look like fluorescent tubes so they fit in tube fittings but you have to wire the bulb fitting straight to the mains, without any of the fluorescent ballast.
It sounds like your tubes are the second type, which means you can run a second bulb's mains lead from either end of the first bulb's mains lead, and so-on. This is called connecting... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Hey guys so I need some help with my mig welding I just started yesterday and while my welds hold well enough they look like absolute garbage. Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong? >pic related my weld
>>937494 Start with butt welding. Work on having a consistent rate of pull. Google up the materials you're working with to find out the correct settings.
Then practice a lot.
Once you can consistently weld in a straight, flat line, start welding pieces of square iron or angle iron together. Once you get that down, try your hand at some wide radius curves, but the biggest key to welding is consistency.
>>937494 From the looks of the pic, no surface prep, not enough amperage/feed rate too high. You're just building up metal over the weld instead of making a molten pool and bonding the two sides together.
Start on smaller plate stock, don't go for thick heavy things until later. it takes a lot of experience to be able to set your machine up correctly for heavy duty welds. I strongly suggest getting a amperage chart.
Hello there I was managing my cables as I did some few changes on my setup, Just wanted you guys to give me if possible some advice with it, as it is a transparent cristal desk and it can't be drilled. Double side tapes are an option, but it would be weird as the desk is transparent. What do you say? Also feel free to post your own works im sure your proud with.
if you can maybe try to stick some cable tie mounts on the under side of the desk and then run everything to the right side of the desk and then drop from there, under the desk, so it will be totally invisible
I'm trying to understand this technical drawing. It's supposed to be a piston rod of a shock absorber. There is supposed to be a screw-thread somewhere, but I can't see where. Also, what the hell does the cross mean at the left?
>>937446 there are threaded ends at both ends. m10x1 is a threaded end and 5/16-24 unf is a threaded end. not sure what the X is or if you cut off some of the label pointing to it but since its a shock piston it is likely some form of adjustment. either keyed or hex or knurled.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6jmzr5HPwE guys someone have the blueprints for one of this? searching only find creepy 60s magazine bad guides, i need one actually blueprint. thank you for after hand.
>>937373 It's not that hard, they are just two units to mount appropriately, as long as you are fine running the cables you'll struggle to fuck it up. I'd still get someone to do it, cost me $1,700 for my unit + installation, heats a 100m2 house pretty well
Shovel/wheel barrow. If i want to mix concrete myself in small amounts I do it in old 5 gall plastic pails with a mixer on a large drill I find this method is much easier faster than by doing it in a wheel barrow. If you have a lot of concrete to mix it might be cheaper/better use of time to order some really depends on local prices etc. you can "float the concrete with a homemade wooden trowel with the edges sanded round if you don't want to buy a real hand float. same goes for a larger floats. then you need a smooth steel trowel. an edging trowel and a broom to texture at the end.
Depending on amount, bucket then tarpaulin then wheelbarrow with dutch hoe then cement mixer.
Premix dry concrete packs are good for patching but make sure you get some pva bonding agent in the mix and on the area where the patch is going. Mixing your own for larger quantities is cheaper. Depending on volume, delivered wet is much easier.
As always, prepare the area thoroughly. Compact as much as possible. If laying onto a porous surface, you need a membrane down first - I use 2 thicknesses of the cheap painters plastic sheets.
After putting the concrete... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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