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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 24. page
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File: image.jpg (942 KB, 3264x2448) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Help me please

I would like to install a hidden push button switch to override the immobiliser on my car. Reason being is it is a key fob style (pic related)that you push into a receptacle to disarm immobiliser and it gives me the shits

Bonus points if I can retain functionality of the immobiliser as its law over here to sell a car with a functioning immobiliser.
21 replies and 4 images submitted. Click here to view.
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This is the guts, I assume it's a resistor?
move the antenna that is the receptacle to under the dash somewhere. Tape your black fob to the antenna in such a way that its always 'connected'.
you need to test the car starting immo symbol goes off
just connect a hidden switch between your stater motor and battery.
throw immobiliser away.

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I live in an apt that has an enclosed hallway. It fucking stinks in the hallway from people smoking in it. Is there a way to make my door seal better. It's a wood door and carpet in both sides. Not an actual door frame with the metal bottom part like on most houses
4 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
Also I don't own it so I can't replace the door or insulate further unless he won't notice I insulated the walls
Local hardware store should have rolls of door seal and a rubber sweep. That would be a good start.
Yep. door seal tape is gonna be your go to. If door is an interior hollow core door, wouldn't suggest a door sweep. you should be able to get away with seal tape for the sides and top and a draft snake or rolled up towel to seal the bottom.
Honestly, just rat out your roommates to the landlord. Landlords fucking HATE smokers, discolors walls, ash ruins carpets, they tend to litter butts everywhere, and the smell is expensive to remove. Like tear out drywall and insulation and replace and repaint expensive.
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Hey there, /diy/

After years of apartment living, the wife and I are finally moving into a big-boy house. I want to start investing in some decent tools that will last for a little while but not break the bank.

The first one I think I'd like to bring home is a table saw. Any suggestions as far as what brands to avoid, models to consider, or if a certain tool has been especially good to you that you can recommend to a new buyer?

I guess what I'm really asking is what someone starting a tool collection should prioritize
30 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
Brands are about the same. If you want higher quality, look at industrial/commercial lines. They also cost more.
If you're just starting out, utility is gonna be your best bet.

A table saw is a good choice, also look into a handheld drill
This, plus maybe a miter saw depending on what projects you have planned

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how can i do a warbot,at least a little one to scare my friends
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A battlebot is literally just a remote control car with weapons attached.
There's not really any intelligent engineering going on.
tape a $20 to the box first.

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/diy/ I need your help!

This is an easy one, I guess...
I recently started building circuits for fun and I am actually really bad at it, I guess.

I have got this RGB LED:

And I have the following problems:

1. How am I supposed to know what colors are on which pin, with the help of this manual? The figures on the first page are showing the 6 pins, and I think pin 5 and 6 are GND. Since the LED has 2x blue and 1x red and 1x green, the 2 pins that are labeled MB are blue, I guess? And logically G stands for green? So E = red? Am I right with my assumptions? How am I supposed to know for sure?

2. In the table "Electrical / Optical Characteristics at TA=25°C" it says that the blue light needs a forward voltage of 2.0 volts. Green needs 2.2 volts and blue 3.8 volts. But there are 2 times blue? Does every blue pin need 3.8 volts, or do I need to divide by 2 (every blue pin 1.9 volts)?

3. The LED is clear. In order to see the full color spectrum, do I need to use a diffused one?

I hope you can help me with my questions!
Thanks for reading.
6 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
blue pins need 3.8v each
the chips inside should be close enough that it will look pretty white but if you look closely you might be able to pick out the individual chips
everything else is correct
e is probably efficient red or something.
the wavelength chart confirms mb and g are common sense.
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Found a better datasheet with readable pin out.


Some calculated resistor values to use with a 5v supply @ 15mA per LED
red = 200 ohm
green = 180 ohm
blue = 68 ohm
Thanks a lot!
This was very helpful.

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asked in another thread yesterday but nobody answered so lets try this again,

I don't know much about electronics.
I'm curious about t8 ledtubes and have aquired 3.
I have a cable with wich I can hook one of the lamps straight to a multisocket.
is there a cable with wich I can connect a further tube to the first one , so both work, or do I have to feed the second one back into the socket.

also, is there a cable equivalent that I can use to hook one up to the cables that come from the wall , like I would normaly hook up a lamp ( sorry for the...
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2 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
There are two different types of LED tubes:

Ones that behave like a fluorescent bulb, so you can just put them in tube fittings and they work

Ones that just look like fluorescent tubes so they fit in tube fittings but you have to wire the bulb fitting straight to the mains, without any of the fluorescent ballast.

It sounds like your tubes are the second type, which means you can run a second bulb's mains lead from either end of the first bulb's mains lead, and so-on. This is called connecting...
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Hey guys so I need some help with my mig welding I just started yesterday and while my welds hold well enough they look like absolute garbage. Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong?
>pic related my weld
7 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
Start with butt welding. Work on having a consistent rate of pull. Google up the materials you're working with to find out the correct settings.

Then practice a lot.

Once you can consistently weld in a straight, flat line, start welding pieces of square iron or angle iron together. Once you get that down, try your hand at some wide radius curves, but the biggest key to welding is consistency.
From the looks of the pic, no surface prep, not enough amperage/feed rate too high. You're just building up metal over the weld instead of making a molten pool and bonding the two sides together.

Start on smaller plate stock, don't go for thick heavy things until later. it takes a lot of experience to be able to set your machine up correctly for heavy duty welds. I strongly suggest getting a amperage chart.
>you didn't clean the metal
>no gas shielding or Flux core was wrong type
>feed rate too high and maybe running hot on the amps

Your welds likely don't "hold well enough" because those look like they have SpongeBob square pantsb levels of porosity.

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Does anyone here know a thing about making brick kilns for firing ceramics? Pic related
2 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
Yes. What in particular?

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Hello there I was managing my cables as I did some few changes on my setup,
Just wanted you guys to give me if possible some advice with it, as it is a transparent cristal desk and it can't be drilled. Double side tapes are an option, but it would be weird as the desk is transparent. What do you say?
Also feel free to post your own works im sure your proud with.
38 replies and 8 images submitted. Click here to view.
Your cables are too short to really do much with it. Everything is pulled tight, no slack for routing.

I would just go with a nice paintable cable raceway down the wall, personally.
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use colored split loom and run el wire inside to make it glow

your cables are too short to go to the right

if you can maybe try to stick some cable tie mounts on the under side of the desk and then run everything to the right side of the desk and then drop from there, under the desk, so it will be totally invisible

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I'm trying to understand this technical drawing. It's supposed to be a piston rod of a shock absorber. There is supposed to be a screw-thread somewhere, but I can't see where. Also, what the hell does the cross mean at the left?
16 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
there are threaded ends at both ends. m10x1 is a threaded end and 5/16-24 unf is a threaded end.
not sure what the X is or if you cut off some of the label pointing to it but since its a shock piston it is likely some form of adjustment. either keyed or hex or knurled.
>m10x1 is a threaded end and 5/16-24 unf is a threaded end
How can you tell from the drawing?
>How can you tell from the drawing?

because it says m10x1 and 5/16-24 unf, respectively?

you know, that being what technical drawings do, tell you the specifications, and all that....

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guys someone have the blueprints for one of this?
searching only find creepy 60s magazine bad guides, i need one actually blueprint.
thank you for after hand.
26 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.

the pic and the video appear to show two different vehicles... ?

the pic looks like a kids' toy built on lawn tractor parts
the video looks like a Jeep CJ5, or maybe a real milsurp Jeep,,,
Silly uncle Ron
Did you even watch the video?

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Okay so im looking at installing a heat pump in my house and maintaining it myself. How feasible is this? what would be the most commin / simple unit?

Im located in NZ so it would have to adapt to that climate and location would be relevant to make availability I guess.
Would i have to get a professional in?
13 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
Seeing as you're having to ask if suggest you're not capable and would save yourself a lot of time, money and embarrassment by paying someone to do it professionally.
I'd suggest*
It's not that hard, they are just two units to mount appropriately, as long as you are fine running the cables you'll struggle to fuck it up. I'd still get someone to do it, cost me $1,700 for my unit + installation, heats a 100m2 house pretty well

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Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
9 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
How is this /diy/ related?

I'll give you the benefit of the doubt and allow you to delete your own post before I report it

Try /g/ instead
i got no idea of what to buy thats why i posted here (its because of the prices they are around 500 to 560 dollars)
If you don't know enough about computers to make an informed decision, no amount of advice is going to cause you to make the right choice.

I've tried to help too many people with this same question, and it always ends up with them buying the HP because their relative/friend had a good one or something.

Fuck off.

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Do leaky faucets cost any significant amount of money a year? Mine drips steady but not a flow in my tub
9 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
In a word, yes. Water wasted = rate x time. Even a tiny rate matters when time is infinite. Replace your cartridge.
Or, if its old school, your seals.
It depends on the price and availability of water.

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I want to put some concrete on the path from my side door to my backyard. What tools would i need for that? And what kind of mix to buy. Thanks.
9 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
Shovel/wheel barrow. If i want to mix concrete myself in small amounts I do it in old 5 gall plastic pails with a mixer on a large drill I find this method is much easier faster than by doing it in a wheel barrow. If you have a lot of concrete to mix it might be cheaper/better use of time to order some really depends on local prices etc. you can "float the concrete with a homemade wooden trowel with the edges sanded round if you don't want to buy a real hand float. same goes for a larger floats. then you need a smooth steel trowel. an edging trowel and a broom to texture at the end.
Depending on amount, bucket then tarpaulin then wheelbarrow with dutch hoe then cement mixer.

Premix dry concrete packs are good for patching but make sure you get some pva bonding agent in the mix and on the area where the patch is going. Mixing your own for larger quantities is cheaper. Depending on volume, delivered wet is much easier.

As always, prepare the area thoroughly. Compact as much as possible. If laying onto a porous surface, you need a membrane down first - I use 2 thicknesses of the cheap painters plastic sheets.

After putting the concrete...
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was talking about how to set up the wood forms.

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