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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 26. page
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I've finally finished a custom arcade stick I've made, pic related but not mine. Thing is, I want to make it better. Right now the controls are wired to an X360 controller circuit board that I "pad hacked". I did this specifically for the highest compatibility on PC. This board sits inside the arcade stick enclosure.

Yesterday, I got the idea from another forum of making it more universal. Basically, all of the controls would be *directly* wired to a universal port (e.g. DB15) at the rear of the enclosure. This universal port would have a long cable...
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If these consoles you are referring to are actual hardware, then it won't be very easy.

You would have to program each "box" with something like a Tensy that knows how to send the correct signal to the console port.
> Would using something like HDMI be a bad idea?

I want you to go over the list of these boards that you're going to hook up to this thing and ask yourself that question again.
I think you guys misunderstand my idea.

Each button on the arcade stick has two wires: "on", and ground. The ground is common throughout the entire stick. There's 4 directions on the stick, 8 buttons on the face, a "coin"/back button, and a start button. That means I have a maximum of 15 wires.

The PCB of console pads typically has a common ground. When you "pad hack" a PCB, you are soldering two wires onto...
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My doctor prescribed a bunch of these because I was having chest pains. Turns out it wasn't a heart problem. Wat do?
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Smash with hammer?
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Aside from illegally inducing hypotensive fainting/death in people you don't like, not much.

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I just got one of these for $800, new. I'm super excited and proud of my thrift.
Anybody have one? Tips? Any experience using the 4th axis?
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Have the manual version. I will tell you right now, you have to constantly check this fucking thing because of how shit the design is. Any bump on the head will push the vertical axis out of square. Even just regular milling will push the vertical axis off square. I bought the fixed column so that it wouldn't be useless but the bolt pattern is different. Was going to drill the base to mount it, but just left it collecting dust after I got tired of it.

Another shit part of the design is how much backlash...
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A glowing review.
Well, if it doesn't work for me, or I can't upgrade it enough, I'll sell it to someone.
I'm not invested too much.
I wanted the extra movement of this column because I may need to mill from the side.
Thanks though
so how tight can I expect the tolerances to stay using the whole stage?
I'm just doing arty stuff, not building aircraft.

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I have recently designed a gaming workstation. The dimensions are 6ft. x 6ft. x 2ft. 6in. It also has a 2ft. x 2ft. add-on. With the add-on, it has six 22in. x 23in. shelves. I have gathered some opinions from others and they think it's a reasonable size. I plan to fit three 27in. monitors, a mid-tower PC, a keyboard, a mouse, and a Blue Yeti microphone on the desk. I plan on spending no more than $500 and to use something other than OSB or Bamboo.
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get rid of the shelves under the main desk, your legs will thank me later
I am putting those there for stability as there are no supports under the main seating space. Without those the desk would bow in the middle. Any suggestions?
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add structure beam across in the middle

back sides use boards as bracings, also allow cable management mounted on it

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Hey guys,

So I wanted to use some scrap glass I had to build some small lids for my small aquariums. I watched some YouTube videos on glass-cutting and I guess it's harder than it looks. I've wasted so much glass already. I don't think I'm gonna risk any more.

Does anybody know the usual rates when getting glass cut by a professional? Is it more expensive than doing it yourself?
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The thing with cutting glass is to firmly and steadily press your cutter into the glass as you score. Then get the score to hang just over the edge of your surface.

Grab the edge of the glasswith your fingers wrapped under the edge (wearing leather gloves) and the heel of your palm on top.

Pull up ever so slightly to get and even pressure on your fingers and barely lift the glass off the surface.

Using your shoulders press down firmly and quickly. Do.not.hesitate.

Holding it like that...
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or just put a dowel under the score and press each side
Is the glass tempered perhaps? Realistically you can only cut ordinary float glass with a glass cutter like in pic. Unless you use the method described here (which is unrealistic).


As for what it cost to go to some local shop and have them use their machines, impossible to tell. Some would rip you off, some would tell you to fuck off, some would do it for a beer and a friendly chat.

PS. I'd build the lid out of acrylic or polycarbonate, never have to worry about it breaking. Neither into shards...
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Anybody got experience mending books? The hinge is starting to crack on the cover side and I'm not quite sure what to do.
Put conservation tape over it? That would look ugly as fuck.
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Read the sticky, ask google first. There have been hundreds of videos/how-tos made online.
You haven't looked at my picture or watched the video, have you.
My broken hinge problem is of the less usual variety, and any meaningful search results get drowned out by broken hinges such as the one in the video

tl;dr Try again.
First related video:
Maybe you should try again.

Alright im back as promised there is no woodwork general so I'm forced to create a thread.

Anons where asking me about my spalted live oak log. I finally got around to cutting slices out of it. All the pieces are rift sawn. And mostly seasoned, just outdoor moisture content form the south USA. I still have lots of log left. But im using a circular saw to cut the slices so im limited to little over 2 inch wide. Thickness is limited to about 5 inches max.

Pic related is a piece after a quick bit on the sander and a little spar urethane applied.

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Heres picture number one.

Sadly for me a barkbeedle seemed to have bored some holes below the surface and made its home. But all the pieces are still useable!
Picture number 2

Prices written are for local! Remember anons who asked her get special prices!
Final image.

The Ts stand for pieces that can be used for turning. And the Xs are thin pieces that are extra and could be sliced on a bandsaw and used for inlay work. Or possibly you can use it for carving little animal curios. Or what ever you can think of.

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Just bought this IKEA desk for a steal. I plan on painting the legs and top black. What type of paint should I use and do I use primer? Sorry I'm very new to this and I'm pretty embarrassed asking but I don't have a father figure to teach me these things.
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The powder coat and laminate are unlikely to work well with a normal interior paint. So yeah, put something like Zinsser 123 on first and leave it to dry for a day. After that any interior or exterior paint should work.
You should scuff sand the surface before you prime it. You'll get better adhesion.

Obviously that's a point-of-no-return decision, since you'll fuck up the existing finish.
Legs dont match. But white matches everything. Paint the legs. Don't touch the top... Get a table cloth of a cutting pad if you think its too bland.

Anyone know how I can duplicate this setup without having to bolt my square tubing to the floor? Needs to be able to hold at least 5lb of tension on all four corners. Any help appreciated greatly.
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reinforced legs/metal plates that goes under the plant, like a bookstand

or similar setup, weight down with bricks
good luck OP, would love to see finished project
Thanks you the idea of a plate as the foot. I can't actually use the pot as part of the nets structure due to other complications. But I will run with the general idea.

Welp it's going to be another 5 weeks until then but I'll have my body from work weld up the feet. I want to be able to takes everything down nicely when it comes time to scrub the room between crops.

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Whats up /diy/, I have this concern. I want to build a Sentry Turret, the one from the famous game series Portal. I just dont know the sensors I need to take, or which microcontroller to use. Can you give me a hand? If we can skip any Arduino related thing, better, and I dont care about the costs, I just want to know the ingredients to build one of these.
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These links might be helpful:


thank YOU very much!!
I've been wanting to build something like this that shoots paintballs to keep deer out of my garden

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Hi /diy/

I want to set up a home security system, and I need to run the wires through my home.

What's the best way to bolt the wires to the wall?

I was going to use a staple gun, but that sounds like a horrible idea, because I might press too hard and pinch the wire.

What do you guys recommend?

Pic unrelated.
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Why not in the wall?
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Use a staple gun for cables. Or in wall.

Hey /diy/,
My school started a huge fund for projects that provide a "more sustainable campus". Anyone have any ideas for the types of projects I could write up for a grant?
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Solar road ways that light up at night.
Solar Roadways

alternatively get some 500 F caps to stick in your ass.
Just to be clear, are you asking for projects that will actually work, or effective covers for embezzling funds?

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What are some basic guitar effects circuits? solid state or tube welcome


in fact I've been looking for a tube amp circuit with few components, or any tube circuits so I can experiment with them
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Here you go anon.
Build this and play it and it will put hair on your balls in no time.
Where do I learn how to read this shit
Not that guy, but definitely picked up on his sarcasm.

>few components.

The point is that guitar effects circuits aren't simple, and require a lot of components, or else they sound like dogshit. This is especially true of solid state circuits, which are more susceptible to noise (even from themselves) than digital ones.

Also...FYI.. SS circuits require a SHIT TON of current... like... leathal doses... probably not something you want to fuck around with if you...
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I need to make a cone shape out of fabric, as in Figure A. The cone will be made from two panels as in Figure B. How do I figure the amount of curvature for the sides marked with red arrows in Figure B? Is there some sort of calculator site where I can input the dimensions and it would tell me how far in or out the minor axis would be from the major axis?
13 replies and 4 images submitted. Click here to view.
I'll answer your question tomorrow, too busy today, it'll probably take a good 15 minutes for me to write out everything you need to know
Is this a trick question? The answer is none. No curvature. The edges marked should be straight.
Why are you so fucking lazy?


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I have some (quite a lot actually) leftover pressure treated wood from a deck.
I can either give them away for free on CL
Or take them to the dump
Or try to build something
Because I frequent this thread a lot, naturally I'm inclined towards the last one.


I foresee some problems.
If I build a picnic table, I KNOW it will be rarely used (wife wants something looking nice on the deck)
If I build a small house for my kids, it will be heavy AF and a month later (when they'll get bored) I'll either have to move it or take it apart
If I start building a shed, I KNOW I'll end up spending way more than it's justified by its use.
The only two ideas I have left are:
>get a cheap Harbor Freight trailer frame and use the wood to make a platform and sides
>build some benches along the railing (connect to/part of the deck) picture semi-related

Anyone made anything else beside kids houses and picnic tables out of pressure treated wood?
17 replies and 5 images submitted. Click here to view.

Car port? bike shed?
Make benches or planters that match the aesthetic of the porch. If you or the wife is unsure about them, trim out the bottom of the bench/planter and do not connect it to the deck. Shazam, removable accents.

Why can't you just return the wood?
car port - can't; the access to the deck is ... "complicated"
bike shed - something to keep in mind

forgot to mention that the deck is on the north side of the house, on the west I have a forest (tall trees) plus it's covered by other trees - no sun whatsoever (good for wood longevity though)
I returned whatever was unused (sweet money), I have a lot of "end pieces"

basically, the question is not:

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Is pic related a good option for an off-the-shelf temporary outdoor workshop?

It's $200 for a 10 x 20 canopy tent with a steel frame.

Would I have better luck putting something together with 2x4s and some plastic sheeting/plywood?

I'm just trying to protect my woodworking tools from the elements, at least until next year.
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It all comes down to how good the canvas material is. I've seen them start to come apart in under a year. I buddy of mine got an old surplus GP Medium army test for $500 and that thing has been out in the weather for almost 15 years without a problem. They are 16x32 feet. There are smaller ones out there.
Seems like your buddy got a great deal for the GP Medium tent, can't seem to find them cheaper than $900 online.

The GP Small 17x17 is selling for about $500 which is still more than I'm willing to spend for a tent.

Thanks for your input, didn't know that some of these tents begin breaking down within a year.
Seems like a really good way to get your shit stolen.

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How can I test these tubes without tube tester.

What kind of projects can i make with these, audio-light projects very welcome
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ECC83s are called 12AX7 in the states.
You could make a preamplifier with these.
AZ41 are rectification tubes.
If you have 4 of them you could use them as a rectifier for said amp, why you would want to is beyond me.

The rest of the tubes are either too mangled to use or too manhandled to read on that image.
Post manufacturers and part numbers and i might look them up.

Otherwise just wire them and make a night light.
how to wire them to make night light?
so far the tubes are
stv 85/10 og3 * 2
GD ahg 5726

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I 3D printed a V4 compressed air engine of my own design that runs on breath power (1" bore x a little over 1" stroke to give you a sense of scale). It runs fine but I've noticed I'm losing a lot of air to blow-by around the pistons into the crankcase area. Currently the crankcase is just open - imagine an engine without an oil pan. How can I reuse this air?

I tried rings but they just added way too much friction and the engine wouldn't run. I've thought about maybe adding an "oilpan" with a fitting that connects it to the intake...
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Here's a simplified drawing of what I have. It's actually 4 cylinders in a V configuration with 180° crank angles, but you get the idea.
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What if I did something similar to a carburetor, minus the venturi?
better tolerances, polished surfaces, maybe make the rings out of some other plastic with less friction.

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Thinking about buying a Universal De Luxe sewing machine (pic related) so I can sew together /k/ shit like battle belts and plate carriers. Does anyone know a acceptable price and wither it has the power to punch through several layers of cordura or ballistic nylon.
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Looks like my old sings.
Should work better than anything short of an industrial that are sold nowadays.
I live in a city of 2 million.
Went to the largest fabric store, brought my stingray hides.
None of their machines could pierce it.
Singer I bought off fleabay for $50 does it all day long without issues.
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$50 is a good deal if it works.

Dont use thin ass needles. That machine has a decent motor and will snap a needle pretty quickly.
Thick needles and keep them sharp.
To sharpen the needles when they get dull--
soda bottle cap
fill with 00 or finer steel wool so it mushrooms over the top about an inch
stretch a piece of junk fabric over the top and glue in place.
Poke the needle in and our about 15-20 times.

Seriously. When sewing anything thicker than 2 layers of cotton, use a tick sharp...
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I'd put my money on an old Singer over any older brand. That's a really basic machine and I wouldn't pay for than $50 for it in working condition. Maybe more if it has a nice cabinet. That said, Singers are cheap and better. Post your local Craig's List and I will look and see if there are any good ones in your area. What's your budget?

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How practical is a dome-shaped house?

Especially in an area frequented by hurricanes.
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Living wise would suck for me 6'5" 250 lbs there would be so many places I couldn't go.
That's not how they are.
Friend has one, hardest part is fitting furniture and cabinets against curved walls
Awful for furniture

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Does anyone have any tips for hiding the wires from this mess?
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Velcro straps.
You are not gonna be able to hide them. Not with that desk design. The best you can do is make it look neat as fuck by bundling them. Unplug everything, then rerun the wires based on location and bundle along the way. No other option with that exposure.
Nice Blightsteel.

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I need a pet door to fit a door that slides into the wall, so no store-bought pet door will fit. Also all the store-bought ones are cheap plastic pieces of shit, but I digress. I have access to a machine shop so I just need to figure out a simple design.

The thing will be cut from sheet metal with a laser, then it can be formed on a press for the bends.

See pic: I make two of those, and when the red areas are bent in to 90 then stick both sides together (obviously one side will be turned) so that forms the inner tunnel. The only thing left is figuring out how...
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It's weatherstrip. You can buy some self adhesive stuff on amazon for pretty cheap.

For the hinge, just drill holes in the bent areas of one before you bend it, then just use a rod as a hinge.
That pair of magnets on the one you linked seems like a good idea as well.
Maybe offset the screw holes so you don't have screws meeting each other from both sides? Depends on door thickness and whatnot.

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Clay general?
As far as I know, you can just moisten clay and work with it right? I made this furnace cover, but the clay keeps cracking when it dries. Would there be any way to prevent this?
Clay from dirt-http://www.practicalprimitive.com/skillofthemonth/processingclay.html
Cheap furnace/kiln-http://www.instructables.com/id/Dual-Fuel-Metal-Melting-Furnace/?ALLSTEPS
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its too thick to set right
Needs sand don't remember the exact portions but it will prevent cracking during drying and when used on a funace also you need to dry something that thick very slowly
Ceramics major here; what these other good folk have said are true.
-Need to allow clay to dry slowly and evenly
. Clay bodies shrink as they dry, anywhere from 10-15% and probably more for native/raw clay.
-excessive thickness will create uneven drying, leading to cracks.
-Adding a grog-like material (such as silica sand) will give strength/structure to the clay, which is helpful when hand-building or firing in an environment which can induce higher amounts of thermal shock/stressors (such as raku)

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well played, google.
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Wrong board

But it's probably because you have uk English as your preferred language
Oh shit, just noticed you weren't referring to the shitty units of measure
Ok fixed, again likely a localisation issue for you

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I found this knife when out for a walk. Is there a good way to get rid of the rust? This is only on the surface and the steel underneath looks fine. Can I get advice on the best cheap product to help remove rust and protect the blade? I have WD40, but what else is good for this? Thanks.
59 replies and 8 images submitted. Click here to view.
(Don't submerge the handle, only the blade.)
So you picked up discarded murder evidence on purpose?

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Hey /diy/ thinking of building a dock. I have a lake in my backyard and the water levels have dropped pretty low this winter so I'm thinking now is my chance to build a dock.
I have the basic idea of what I want, I'm not going to worry about side rails yet.

My plan so far is:
>16'x8' base
>3 front supports 2'
>3 back supports 1'

The place I'm putting the supports in is about 2' below the water line and I'm going to...
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Every property around me has at least one pond.
One thing they have in common, rickity docks.
If you just want like 2-3 years, wood supports will work.
If you want something that will last, do solotubes and concrete.

They're just cardboard tubes of various diameters and lengths that you can buy at home improvement stores (only one use).
Buy 4'x9" tubes
Dig hole.
Stick bottom of tube in it.
Level all tops of tubes to same height.
Fill with concrete (add reinforcement if...
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/diy/ hates the water they are a land folk

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Is it possible to learn how to change capacitors from computer motherboards till monday? If yes please tell me how. I've read about it on google of course but am really afraid that I won't be able to do it and its for my job.
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yeah..... so why don't you ask again... in English this time. Also if you read about it? then do it. man up puffball.
>in English this time
Yeah I'm in hurry but since you replied to me its coherent enough.
>then do it
I will have to anyway but I don't want to fuck it up.
well then you are screwed....
OR you can get a crappy mother board and practice.

also breathe in....
breathe out...
breathe in....
breathe out...
breathe in....
breathe out...

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How do I pick a lock like this? My roommate locked himself out. Thank you for your help, i dont want to share my bed with him.
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You need Bobby pins; a high lockpick lvl and a locksmith

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So since according to /diy/ dewalt is shit, milawaukee is shit, makita is shit what is a man supposed to buy?
69 replies and 5 images submitted. Click here to view.
Buy whatever the fuck you want you retard
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Dewalt kicks ASS!!

Sick of getting fucked in the ass by the kikes at the gas company and electric company.

Im living in a big house (3.6k sq ft) in a rural area. The house is not insulated beyond the absolute basics, but all non-technogical heat insulation methods are in effect.

With that being said, can anyone reccomend any cheap but effective appliances? I average $400/month just for the gas to keep the house at 18 degrees celcious.

Perhaps there is an appliance that can hold it at par or higher for only $200/month ?
32 replies and 4 images submitted. Click here to view.
wood burner, oil burner, corn burner, jew burner
Do like the Norwegians do. Close every goddamn door and buy a cheap radiator for the room you spend the most time in.
Get yourself an AGA, run it in oil and run your hearing off it.

If you want to invest heavily look at underground heat sourcing. I forget what it's called.

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