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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 30. page
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File: rotj endor shield emitter.jpg (23 KB, 636x288) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Are there any legal issues with getting a USB/PCI-e LTE adapter for my home router (pfSense box) and building a huge fucking antenna to turn it into a fixed-WISP style client device? I'm thinking of doing this since I have unlimited cell data and Comcast sucks goat vomit through a bendy straw. Picture somewhat related.
37 replies and 6 images submitted. Click here to view.
"Unlimited cell data" and unlimited cell data are often two very different things. Your connection's gonna get throttled to almost nothing pretty quick unless you have some arcane grandfathered-in plan.
I'm mostly nocturnal so even if I was tethering at line rate for six hours a day it wouldn't cause significant network congestion. I've telecommuted a ten hour shift via tethering before with no throttling. My plan does include unlimited data with no throttling.

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Hey diy I have a problem. I bought a can of acrylic paint 18 months ago, with which I painted my radiators (the paint was a matte brown color).

Today I decided to go over my radiators again with the same paint, but to my horror the paint turns out to be glossy as fuck now. I made sure to flip all my cans of paint upside down every months or so, and I've stirred in it quite a lot, so that can't be the problem.

Does this shit age or something? Did I do something wrong? I can go out and buy another can (probably), but it the color keeps changing, the problem...
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7 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.

you know the more layers of paint you add to these, over the years it will decrease its efficiency because the layers of paint will start acting as insulation and not transfer the heat
1. Yes spray paint can go bad.

2. The pigments in most paints are in fact temperature and light reactive; oxidation, light and heat will change the color over time. Fact.

3. There is specialty "High Temp" paint made just for Radiators.

4. While layers of paint will reduce the radiators efficiency, I don't think spray paint will have an appreciable effect.
>to my horror

That's a bit of an exaggeration, don't you think? How serious is a glossy radiator?

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So my old screen started acting crazy (Pic related - it's what it does). THere is a completely clear picture below the distorted part and even the distorted part works partially (shows what is should but with pixellation and green on it). Can I fix this?
4 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
It might be fucked /diy/ :( Hope there's a smart guy out there who can save my beloved screen!
if disconnecting and reconnecting the ribbon cables on the back of the panel don't work, the connections to the drivers are fucked and the entire monitor is trash.
Looks like one of the buffer board IC's has failed or a hot press ribbon cable connecting to the inside of the LCD has bad solder joints. Does pressing around the display make any of the segments come back good?


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Hey diy people - first time posting here so sorry if this is the wrong place to ask. I currently have two sensors (HIH6130) with an arduino UNO - plus an LCD. I can get the first sensor to get the humidity and temperatuer and display it, but i have no idea how to get the second sensor to start working, I've hooked it up to the arduino, but I can't make the code work. Help me out please!
Here's the code: http://pastebin.com/c7whSpzp
P.S. Don't mind the comments
5 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
>P.S. Don't mind the comments
I can't understand em anyway ;)

1) To clarify what it is you are trying to do: what you want is to have two of the same kinds of sensors hooked up at the same time? And to be able to read either one of them?

2) Are your sensors I2C ones, like these?--
Not really familiar with arduino, but I think...

>ADD something like:
byte address = 0x27; //EXISTING STATEMENT
byte address_TWO = 0x??; //Change address to match pin

HIH6130 hih6130(address); //EXISTING STATEMENT
HIH6130 hih6130_TWO(address_TWO); //hih6130_TWO = name for 2nd sensor

>then in main:
hih6130.readSensor(); //EXISTING STATEMENT
>then add appropriate lines to the lcd section anywhere there's a hih6130 reference,...
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>HIH6130 hih6130(address); //EXISTING STATEMENT
above is the way you would do the basic code.
in that statement, the "HIH6130" part is the class of the object you are creating, and "hih6130" is the name of the particular instance.
you can name the instance anything you want, as long as each instance has a unique name.
So you could do like this instead:
>HIH6130 sensor_1(address_1); // this is the first sensor
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Why do BLDC motors vary so much in power? You have small remote control plane engines like this putting out 15kw. But then you have larger and heavier ebike motors with only 2kw.

What variables cause one BLDC motor to have 10x higher power to weight ratio of another?
28 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
Just guessing here, but the RC plane motors have excellent cooling and the run times (per run and the total run time) are pretty short.
its the difference torque stength
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Why is the difference so extreme? For example this motor weighs roughly 4x as much and offers half the torque at the same voltage.


16 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
That's what I have for home use. Excellent MIG, decent TIG and stick. Nice for aluminum (spool gun). Versatility and portability are nice. Duty cycle is too low for production work, but all right for home projects. What were you planning to use it for?
Well yesterday I had a thought, more of a dream really. I was riding my motorcycle with some people and came to a line of people sitting on their bikes on a bench, like a church pew. I tried to squeeze myself and my bike past everyone to get to the other side of the bench thing. When I got to the end my bike was gone. Same color bike was in my hands but it wasn't mine. A buddy picked me up and we went riding around looking for who took it. We stopped at some sketchy shops that sold bikes because we figured they would be selling it as stolen. No dice. I don't remember...
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Just practicing or portable projects when I get a larger machine.

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35 replies and 4 images submitted. Click here to view.
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...and after
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Wa la!

It's a caddy for my Dust Deputy/shop vac + a really awesome auto vacuum switch.

The fit and finish is really rough, yes. I can't use a jigsaw to save my life.
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The bottom part is not quite done. I didn't want to spend the time to figure out exactly how much I'd have to cut away for the best fit, so I decided to cut the base roughly with the table saw, assemble it, then trim it later.

BTW, the Kreg pocket screw jig is a brilliant little thing. A masterpiece. Every diyer should have one.

File: cheese.jpg (658 KB, 2700x3600) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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so I'm looking for wind proof fabric, and having a hard time. I want to build gloves that go over my summer motorcycle gloves that block out all air flow. I already tried some nylon shit from the craft store, does not block out 30mph+ winds.

also if nobody knows the answer to above, what glue would work best for gluing say like a nylon fabric to mylar sheeting? was thinking just to maybe glue some mylar to oneside of the nylon and just cut my pattern and sew around as normal to make into a glove.

also there doesn't need to be any safety value as they...
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4 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
Maybe you could try going to a thrift store to find a wind breaker and use the fabric from that
Oilskin has been used for at least a hundred years now to keep out wind and rain.

The next thing from that would be chemical resistant gloves, which are basically just cloth gloves dipped in rubber. These would probably feel as cold as leather in the wind.

Thanks guys.. Im stupid and found an easy fix for my little issue...

ProTIP use regular rubber gloves... It blocks out all the air and keeps my fingers warm.

File: image.jpg (46 KB, 1000x675) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Hey /diy/ any recommendations for a cheaper 3D printer for someone who's never used one before?
2 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
There is 3D printing general thread here >>934080
Ask there

There is even older thread in archives if you would like to look through it >>923897

File: IMG_20160125_032549.jpg (26 KB, 572x570) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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So I need to weld some square tubing that is 1,5mm thick on the walls but I have little experience on welding thin material. I have a fine 130 amp inverter that can manage really low current without sticking. I normally use 2,5mm 6013's and that's the thinnest I can get around here.

Any tips or techniques you guys wanna share?
10 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
Personally I would never weld anything under 2mm using an arc welder, but if you are adamant try finding some 1.6mm 7014's to use. Do a quick google search and you should find heaps of forums with people asking pretty similar questions.
You can try buying thinner sticks, like the other anon said, otherwise stick with the 2,5mm. A technique that works fine is doing small spots along the weld and then do a pass over them.
This. Make sure it's cool before welding on it again. Also, use DC negative for less penetration. I'd use MIG or TIG for something like that, but if all you have is stick, good luck. I've done similar stuff, but it's tricky.

File: home-depot.jpg (259 KB, 550x368) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Haven't done this in some months. Got questions? Want to bitch about something stupid (I'll probably mock you because you think the kid making tenbux an hour is supposed to know how to build a windmill and rage that the bigbox corporate retail associate can't assist you in your esoteric question)? Work at menards or lowes or whatever and want to commiserate?

I've worked in a few departments now - paint, services, etc. and know most of the store at this point.
231 replies and 13 images submitted. Click here to view.
Is it depressing? Do you enjoy getting to help people?
nah, i kinda like it. it's not a stressful job, has adequate benefits, is an absurdly easy commute and yea, i do like helping people.
Also used to work there. Job was pretty decent. Liked co-workers. Hated management. Left because they couldn't pay me enough to stay.

Now thanks to their shit corporate hours they lost like all of their part time workers who actually gave a damn. All because they didn't want to pay for their healthcare.

I worked in flooring mainly but pretty much just went to where I wanted to work that day.

File: Wheel.jpg (27 KB, 500x362) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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I want to begin to throw some clay but I don't have the resources to actually buy a wheel so I want to make my own wheel.
I have a washing machine motor that may work but I cannot imagine what else can I do.
So if any one has like the blueprints of a pottery wheel or a book or so tho make one would be appreciated
5 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
I'm currently building one for my girlfriend. Taking forever on it because we live in an apartment and she can't use it here.

You can find plans for a ghetto one with a washing machine motor online.

The motor is not a good choice though due to the fact they are a/c and heat up when you limit the power on them.

Your best bet is to find a deent sized d/c motor with PWM. Treadmills are an easy source of these.
and in RPM and hp what are the numbers??
If you mean me, I'm not 100% sure yet. Math says about 300 which is a bit high. That is also assuming the speed on the motor is accurate. Often the numbers are high. Plus I can limit it down a little if need be.

Current motor is 2.3HP Max with 1.75 HP Continuous rating. Overkill but the motor was free.

File: Guitar MDF templates.jpg (142 KB, 1500x1080) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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I want to make a telecaster body, but I have no idea how to get started. I feel as if I need a MDF template for routing the channels (see pic) Do I? Any other tips on solid body guitar making? Anyone out there made one?
4 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
my dad does. basically the part you're talking about you need to either make or buy a jig. you predrill to the correct depth and then route it with the jig with a plunge router (is that what it's called?).

I happen to be building an acoustic for my first time right now. I personally started with a full scale blue print, made a simple mockup with a wooden railing, and went from there. There's just so much I could get into though about building. Maybe following someone else's build in a blog...
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Find a template for the outer shape online that is to scale. Either find someone with a printer big enough to print it at scale or use something like BigPrint to print it.

Use a band saw or even a jig saw to cut out the rough body. Finish by sanding down to the exact shape and outline.


As for cutting bout for wiring, picups and controls, this is mostly covered by plates and shrouds so it shouldn't be such a hang up.

If you did want to use a router and template just follow the exact same process.
Thanks, this helps me a lot. I'm trying to do this on the cheap, and that's a good plan.

Anyone have any advice how to fix this? Its a 2009 altima door that got hit with a tree branch. Its only dented on the door itself. Not the body.
6 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
You're not gonna like the answer but the only way is to sand the door, bonds the dent, and repaint the door. Unfortunately there's no 'unbending' bent metal.
File: p899.jpg (66 KB, 600x490) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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You could do it this way, but there is a similar way, using rivets instead of welding rods.
Take it to a paintless dent guy they will make it look good as new and shouldnt run you too much

File: sawstop.gif (2 MB, 320x240) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Every video I've seen about sawstop shows the finger/sausage sloooowly approaching the blade to demonstrate the brake, and then it shows the intact test subject. I've been wondering: what would happen if you straight up slapped the blade or hit it with your hand at a higher velocity?
42 replies and 4 images submitted. Click here to view.
You'll be better off than without that is for sure. Probably just a laceration and no missing digits. Have you seen how fast that bitch stops the blade?
It's fast and extremely effective, but I don't buy that "intact fingers" stuff they say. I mean you're still touching a sharp jagged blade spinning at 2000+ rpm.
We have one at our makerspace. A guy put his hand into it while cutting. Got cut. Not bad enough for stitches.

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