Are there any legal issues with getting a USB/PCI-e LTE adapter for my home router (pfSense box) and building a huge fucking antenna to turn it into a fixed-WISP style client device? I'm thinking of doing this since I have unlimited cell data and Comcast sucks goat vomit through a bendy straw. Picture somewhat related.
"Unlimited cell data" and unlimited cell data are often two very different things. Your connection's gonna get throttled to almost nothing pretty quick unless you have some arcane grandfathered-in plan.
>>935745 I'm mostly nocturnal so even if I was tethering at line rate for six hours a day it wouldn't cause significant network congestion. I've telecommuted a ten hour shift via tethering before with no throttling. My plan does include unlimited data with no throttling.
Hey diy I have a problem. I bought a can of acrylic paint 18 months ago, with which I painted my radiators (the paint was a matte brown color).
Today I decided to go over my radiators again with the same paint, but to my horror the paint turns out to be glossy as fuck now. I made sure to flip all my cans of paint upside down every months or so, and I've stirred in it quite a lot, so that can't be the problem.
Does this shit age or something? Did I do something wrong? I can go out and buy another can (probably), but it the color keeps changing, the problem... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
So my old screen started acting crazy (Pic related - it's what it does). THere is a completely clear picture below the distorted part and even the distorted part works partially (shows what is should but with pixellation and green on it). Can I fix this?
>>935683 Looks like one of the buffer board IC's has failed or a hot press ribbon cable connecting to the inside of the LCD has bad solder joints. Does pressing around the display make any of the segments come back good?
Hey diy people - first time posting here so sorry if this is the wrong place to ask. I currently have two sensors (HIH6130) with an arduino UNO - plus an LCD. I can get the first sensor to get the humidity and temperatuer and display it, but i have no idea how to get the second sensor to start working, I've hooked it up to the arduino, but I can't make the code work. Help me out please! Here's the code: http://pastebin.com/c7whSpzp P.S. Don't mind the comments
>ADD something like: byte address = 0x27; //EXISTING STATEMENT byte address_TWO = 0x??; //Change address to match pin
HIH6130 hih6130(address); //EXISTING STATEMENT HIH6130 hih6130_TWO(address_TWO); //hih6130_TWO = name for 2nd sensor
>then in main: hih6130.readSensor(); //EXISTING STATEMENT hih6130_TWO.readSensor(); >then add appropriate lines to the lcd section anywhere there's a hih6130 reference,... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>935716 >HIH6130 hih6130(address); //EXISTING STATEMENT above is the way you would do the basic code. in that statement, the "HIH6130" part is the class of the object you are creating, and "hih6130" is the name of the particular instance. you can name the instance anything you want, as long as each instance has a unique name. So you could do like this instead: >HIH6130 sensor_1(address_1); // this is the first sensor >HIH6130... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>935615 That's what I have for home use. Excellent MIG, decent TIG and stick. Nice for aluminum (spool gun). Versatility and portability are nice. Duty cycle is too low for production work, but all right for home projects. What were you planning to use it for?
Well yesterday I had a thought, more of a dream really. I was riding my motorcycle with some people and came to a line of people sitting on their bikes on a bench, like a church pew. I tried to squeeze myself and my bike past everyone to get to the other side of the bench thing. When I got to the end my bike was gone. Same color bike was in my hands but it wasn't mine. A buddy picked me up and we went riding around looking for who took it. We stopped at some sketchy shops that sold bikes because we figured they would be selling it as stolen. No dice. I don't remember... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
The bottom part is not quite done. I didn't want to spend the time to figure out exactly how much I'd have to cut away for the best fit, so I decided to cut the base roughly with the table saw, assemble it, then trim it later.
BTW, the Kreg pocket screw jig is a brilliant little thing. A masterpiece. Every diyer should have one.
so I'm looking for wind proof fabric, and having a hard time. I want to build gloves that go over my summer motorcycle gloves that block out all air flow. I already tried some nylon shit from the craft store, does not block out 30mph+ winds.
also if nobody knows the answer to above, what glue would work best for gluing say like a nylon fabric to mylar sheeting? was thinking just to maybe glue some mylar to oneside of the nylon and just cut my pattern and sew around as normal to make into a glove.
also there doesn't need to be any safety value as they... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
So I need to weld some square tubing that is 1,5mm thick on the walls but I have little experience on welding thin material. I have a fine 130 amp inverter that can manage really low current without sticking. I normally use 2,5mm 6013's and that's the thinnest I can get around here.
>>935563 Personally I would never weld anything under 2mm using an arc welder, but if you are adamant try finding some 1.6mm 7014's to use. Do a quick google search and you should find heaps of forums with people asking pretty similar questions.
>>935613 This. Make sure it's cool before welding on it again. Also, use DC negative for less penetration. I'd use MIG or TIG for something like that, but if all you have is stick, good luck. I've done similar stuff, but it's tricky.
Haven't done this in some months. Got questions? Want to bitch about something stupid (I'll probably mock you because you think the kid making tenbux an hour is supposed to know how to build a windmill and rage that the bigbox corporate retail associate can't assist you in your esoteric question)? Work at menards or lowes or whatever and want to commiserate?
I've worked in a few departments now - paint, services, etc. and know most of the store at this point.
I want to begin to throw some clay but I don't have the resources to actually buy a wheel so I want to make my own wheel. I have a washing machine motor that may work but I cannot imagine what else can I do. So if any one has like the blueprints of a pottery wheel or a book or so tho make one would be appreciated
>>935554 If you mean me, I'm not 100% sure yet. Math says about 300 which is a bit high. That is also assuming the speed on the motor is accurate. Often the numbers are high. Plus I can limit it down a little if need be.
Current motor is 2.3HP Max with 1.75 HP Continuous rating. Overkill but the motor was free.
I want to make a telecaster body, but I have no idea how to get started. I feel as if I need a MDF template for routing the channels (see pic) Do I? Any other tips on solid body guitar making? Anyone out there made one?
>>935522 my dad does. basically the part you're talking about you need to either make or buy a jig. you predrill to the correct depth and then route it with the jig with a plunge router (is that what it's called?).
I happen to be building an acoustic for my first time right now. I personally started with a full scale blue print, made a simple mockup with a wooden railing, and went from there. There's just so much I could get into though about building. Maybe following someone else's build in a blog... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Every video I've seen about sawstop shows the finger/sausage sloooowly approaching the blade to demonstrate the brake, and then it shows the intact test subject. I've been wondering: what would happen if you straight up slapped the blade or hit it with your hand at a higher velocity?
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