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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 31. page
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Wanna feel sick

Dude is a disgrace
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Your opinion is retarded and you are retarded. People have different taste unlike teens with a golden iphone 6 who all have the same lame taste.
Faggot look at it. Man takes no care at all with his work. He might as well just gave him a cheap MP3 player
Man didn't even use any grill cloth

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Hey electronics people.

How would you rig up your houses electriity box to tell you which outlet, specifically, is having electricity drained from it?

I got the idea because at one point in my life, my family had two homes. We had electricity in them both, but only lived in one because of reasons. No, it's not because we're rich, it was because of a divorce, and then we needed to go to a better school. etc.

anyway. We had neighbors sneak over while we weren't occupying the house and rig up extension cords so they could sap our electricity....
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>We had neighbors sneak over while we weren't occupying the house and rig up extension cords so they could sap our electricity

how did you know
I'd install cameras.

Also, out of curiosity - you pay your electric bill to the phone company?
Because the house was unoccupied, everything was unplugged, but my mother kept the power on because we visited occasionally to clean it up. When your electricity bill goes up to $50 a month despite using absolutely no power for lights, heat or flushing the toilet, there's only a few things it could be.

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So I'm pretty proud of myself /diy/.... I'm almost gid/diy/!

So, this is my first electronically derived art project. I bought a bunch of old broken printers and scanners off ebay for £5.... (shipping was a bitch though, racked up to around £50 in the end)

Anyway, I broke them down and took out all the ferrite beads from the wiring. Threw out the rest of the junk and got to work on pic related.

What do you think?

Its a face - displaying a man who's printer has broken.

Next step is to find a piece of wood and stick them down.

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What the fuck
See above
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White glue I guess. Superglue works too, but I hate working with superglue.

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Hey /diy/ers. Mind if I pick your brains?

My Mom's water heater fell through the floor of her trailer.

What's the easiest way to get it out of the hole and either fix the hole or come up with a more temporary solution until I can get a professional in there? I was thinking of crawling under the house with a car jack and seeing if that can hold it up long enough. How stupid of an idea is that?

Pic related, that's what she sent me.
Thanks in advance.
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Here's another picture. Not sure how old the WH is.
>How stupid of an idea is that?

You could try it.
Maybe you can lift it high enough and then slip 2x4s under it to sit it on, where the floor hasnt fallen through yet.

Im not sure how else I would lift that thing, other than typical bear hug removal of it, which would be difficult.
Turn off water.
Empty tank
Lift it up.

As for a temp fix. A base of some sort like cinder blocks and some plywood.

Hi guys trying to repair my monitor?
is this a standard input cable for the electricity?
7 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
Yeah, that's an IEC C13/C14 connector (usually just IEC). You'll sometimes hear them called "kettle leads", which is actually something different. Easy to pick up in any kind of electricals or hardware shop.

No idea what that audio DC connector is for, though. Speaker power, I assume.
I suspect the DC connector is an output to power a set of speakers that were originally bundled with the monitor.
- dell soundbar connector - yup, speakers, basically. DO NOT CONNECT POWER TO BOTH THIS AND MAIN SOCKET OP!

Actually pretty shoddy marked, desu. But, Power 3-pin 100-240v, cable in first socket, done.

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i'm trying to make some stuff to sell online, any ideas?
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Audiophile placebo garbage
so... take shitty headphones and add something?
No, you need to design shitty headphones that use outrageously expensive components, gold plated wire, and look pretty. Then mark the price up 1000x.

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I have a concrete/regular drill , a cordless dremel, and a wired dremel knockoff with various wheels and bits.

I need to figure out how to drill a 1-5/8" hole without a hole saw. I need to make a 1-5/8" hole in a steel bracket and another same size hole in a metal salad bowl. I'm wondering if there is a way I can cut the circle out using a wheel with my dremel or not.

I'm trying to make a bracket like this http://shop.cwandt.com/products/tripod-light?variant=254796582 and the metal salad bowl will be my shade. I'm using this...
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Draw your 1 5/8 circle with a clean sharpie (that hasn't been used for a /b thread), drill as many holes inside the circle as you can, then use one of your dremels with a stone to grind out to your sharpie outline. The salad bowl is probably stainless, you may have to knock some starter holes with a nail, and it'll take longer. If you try the drill use a lubricant, a good sharp bit, and good luck. This will all take you some time. Assuming you know something about safety and procedure when drilling holes in...
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mark the 1-5/8" hole circumference on the bracket and bowl, drill a bunch of small holes(e.g.1/8") around the circumference, and use the dremel to connect the holes.

or buy pic related for $6.50

Thanks for the replies. I would have bought the lamp with clamp but here in Canada, it's around 23 dollars for one that can handle 150 watt bulb. I got the lamp socket with cord for 6 and the stainless steel salad bowl was 2 bucks.

Hello /diy/

/k/ here. I humbly request your shared knowledge on hydraulic shot presses. I could always just buy one, and still may, but I like to build things for myself. Can anyone provide schematics, or a parts list, or any other advice for building a 20 ton shop press? Will be used for bending sheet and plate and pipe, but also to press the occasional barrel into the odd trunnion, and who knows maybe I'll rebuild a bearing or two.

Going for basically pic related, but much taller, and possibly on a cart or with its own wheels.
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My biggest obstacle here is that I am shit at welding. So my question here is can a build like this be done with just nuts and bolts and bushings? Are there any deal breaking cons to building a press which is held together with huge nuts and bolts rather than welded joints?

Additional questions.
What gauge rectangular tubing/ channel/angle sock should be used for the frame to withstand around 25-30 tons of load. I want to overburdened it in case I someday decide I need more dakka.
get better at welding, I would not go with bolts.
>What gauge rectangular tubing/ channel/angle sock should be used for the frame to withstand around 25-30 tons of load. I want to overburdened it in case I someday decide I need more dakka.
The AISC has a very handy resource available that details exactly how to calculate loads. Start from the beginning of the code book and you might actually learn something useful. It will answer all your questions. If you want to just be on the safe side then i'd go with 3" thick solid steel square stock.

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Hey /diy/,

I'm looking to get an air compressor for an airbrush. I'm looking for something with a large tank and an operating pressure of 15-40psi (can go higher, just doesn't need to).

Got any suggestions on what to get?
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I was pretty happy with a cheap 2 gallon tank compressor, the same one I use for my brad nailers and car tires. I put an air-dryer in line and I didn't seem to have any problems attributable to the air line. (I couldn't into airbrush for a couple hours, then I figured it out and things went smoother)

I was painting Warhammer minis and after I got it down I got a nice thin even coat on pretty easily. Windex is a great thinner for citadel paints.

So almost any compressor comes with a pressure regulator. The tank runs from 120-150 psi ish depending on specs. When it hits 120 the compressor kicks back on, and when it hits 150 it turns off. (I actually made those numbers up, they almost certainly aren't correct, but they are sort of ball-park ish) The regulator keeps the stuff in your hose at whatever PSI you want, as long as it's lower than the tank, so air brushing isn't a problem.

As I recall I didn't even have a big problem with uneven flow when the tank was filling. A lot of people get away with not even using a tank and just running right off a little tiny continuous compressor for their airbrush, but getting a small wood working/construction compressor/tank isn't much more and then you can use your tools with it too.

To use it I had to get an 'airbrush adapter' so it goes from 1/4" hose to 1/8" hose.
I also got an air dryer, it's just a little glass bulb with a copper screen you put in your air line that condenses water out of the line.
Make sure you dial the pressure down if you had used it with a normal tool earlier.

I am a newb at model painting though so maybe I'm full of shit, but I was happy with it.
Could you post pics of the models? that's why I'm buying it.

I'm looking at something like this:


It has 45db operating noise and a 10L tank.


Managed to find a video of it showing the brand label and it clearly operating at a low noise.

Would that be suitable? Or could I find something cheaper?
harbor freight has a 3 gallon oilless pancake compressor for $60, that would be plenty for airbrushing. as anon mentioned, you want an air dryer as well.

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Query: Are thre any safety concerns using a plug in lamp dimmer switch with other non lamp electronical appliances?

I have a cat founatin whose pump is too powerand it creates splashes which scares the cats. I was thinking of getting the dimmer switch to make it a trickle that wouldn't splash.

The wife bought it and while typing this, I know wonder what advantages the fountain has over a bowl.
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yes if the dimmer is a chopper type thing which inevitably it is then it wont work with inductive loads which is exactly what a motor is. well, it will work but the dimmer will be under a much greater load and could melt and explode.
this is why things like dimmers and occupancy sensors have different ratings depending on the lamp technology, fl, cfl, halogen, led etc.
Those motors that come inside cat fountains are usually pretty small and low current and, if I recall, have a disconnect plug half way down the wire. With a little bit of calculation, you may be able to insert a resistor in to the disconnect plug to throttle the motor down a little by limiting the current to the motor.
Strike that. Even though that solution may still work, first things first. Remove the pump from the cat bowl and look for a small knob on it. Turn the knob all the way down and reinstall the pump. Problem solved.

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Hey /diy/! I have been into hobby robotics for about 6 years now. I already have a 3-d printer and I've been using the hell out of it for the last year. My problem is that the parts just aren't strong enough even printed in ABS on the bigger stuff I am doing. My questions are these: Are tabletop milling machines and lathes accurate and powerful enough? Mostly aluminum, with the occasional mild steel part, and on that stuff not much more than keyways and etc. What are some good brands? I have been saving for a while to buy some decent stuff, and I have found a full size Jet knee-type close to me for 1800, but it just seems overkill. That and the size is an issue too. Weight and size is going to make moving it a bitch. I'm using my utility room on my house, and while weight isn't an issue because of the slab floor, size certainly is. I figure I can put a tabletop lathe in the area too if I can use a tabletop milling machine. What do you people use?
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For hobby robotics they are enough.

For the hobbyist "cut out from sheetmetal and weld together" operation, I would recommend a cheap CNC mill. Hand cranking sucks.
>Are tabletop milling machines and lathes accurate and powerful enough?

>What are some good brands?
grizzly stocks parts for their machines in their us warehouse, when you break something it is a pain in the dick to wait for parts from china. in my understanding the small machines are all made in the same chinese factory, so brand is largely irrelevant.

> I have found a full size Jet knee-type close to me for 1800,
get it, Ive been very pleased with my jet mill, its easier to do small work on a big machine than vise versa

>Weight and size is going to make moving it a bitch.
i lift my mill with an automotive engine hoist, then roll it on pipes. i can move it by myself if i need to. i used the same engine hoist to move the lathe.

>What do you people use?
i have a jet jvm836 mill and a harbor freight 12x36 lathe.
ive had to order lathe parts from china, it took 11 weeks to get them. On the mill i have only ever had to replace the electrical switch, it shipped from cali and arrived within a week. i bought the lathe in 2000 and the mill in 2001.
Various thoughts-
1) your pic shows a round-column mill, and most people agree that square-column mills are more desirable as they don't lose the head accuracy if you adjust the head up and down
2) smaller mills are cheaper but conventional vertical mills are only really accurate over about the center 1/3 of the table's left-to-right movement. the weight of the table itself makes the whole thing sag if you crank it off to either side. ALL vertical mills do this, even the big & expensive ones.
3) no mini-mill I've ever seen has a nod adjustment on the head, so you can't tram them perfectly. only one mid-size mill I've ever seen (online) had it. All normal Bridgeport-style full-size mills have it. so if you want maximum-possible-accuracy, you must use a full-size mill that is trammed correctly
4) (In the US) Jet is often said to be the best of the mini-China/Taiwan metalworking machines. Grizzly is second-best, but has the best parts support. You get what you pay for.
5) I have a grizzly G0619 mill. The only thing I don't like is the lack of head nod. And I'd like to motorize it (or CNC it) but can't yet...
6) I also have a grizzly G9972Z lathe. It only threads one-way, so you can't cut backwards threads with it (some people make a gear to allow this tho). It is belt-drive so if you crash it, the belt just slips (I did that once). Mainly I wish it would turn slower than it does, the lowest speed is 150 RPMs and I'd like it better if it was 1/3 that--but the only way to change that is to electronically control the synchronous AC motor, which isn't cheap. Or convert it to a brushless motor, which also isn't cheap.

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Hi diy, I 've been searching information to write and read data on DDR module, but I don't find serious source, or functional approach.

Any suggestion?
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You're going to have to provide more details on how precisely you intend to read & write - like the setup, I realize you are asking about the method. Unless you mean you need both setup AND method in which case you clearly don't possess the knowledge to be able to pull this off successfully.
I find it rather interesting that ostensibly you can write code for an FPGA but you don't know to consult either the datasheet for DDR memory or go find the standards documentation for DDR memory to find this information and/or understand this information? No bully, but: Are you sure you know enough about what you're trying to do to be working with what you're trying to work with, here?
This is a rather strange request for /diy/. although i bet the neckbeards at /g/ don't know anything about FPGAs

What kind of FPGA are you using? what evaluation board? What kind of RAM?

Is it a SoC with the RAM shared between the processing system and programmable logic?

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I have a table that's 35 inches by 90 inches. It currently only has 4 legs. However its not very stable. Where is the best spot for me to place two extra legs I have to make it stable. I was thing in the center maybe 30inches in.
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Centres, always.
Is the table sagging because theres no lateral support?. Like its thickness is like sheet of plywood.
It sagging a little its not really noticeable unless you sit on the ground and look at it the top is 3/4 inch thick

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Sup DIY masters of the universe

This man was throwing out these regulated power supply's at an old speaker store and I got ahold of them. He mentioned they were broken but didn't say what was broken, which gave me the Idea that I could use parts from both to make one functioning again....well, hopefully.

I plugged in the one on the right first in order to see if anything was visually out of the ordinary and well.......This part exploded. I haven't tried the other one yet lol

The capacitors all blew out, but since it had voltage in it, I dare...
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Could be a failed rectifier if it blew up several capacitors? effectively feeding the DC circuit AC.
Can you take a picture of the part that exploded?
This is the part that exploded

It has large capacitors on the bottom side

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So, i have this cooling pad, and i want to be able to regulate the fan speed, so if you guys could make a circuit, the cooling pad is the Cooler Master Notepal X-Slim.

Thank you,
77 replies and 18 images submitted. Click here to view.
Well, telling us the type of electricity it takes, its voltage and its amperage would help us out. Without that information I can only guess. I'm assuming its 12 volts DC and draws under an amp so you can probably get by with a simple rheostat.
>so if you guys could make a circuit

Which bit of Do It YOURSELF confused you?

If you want advice on how to learn enough electronics to design & build your own circuit, check out the /ohm/ thread on here.
Nah not 12V thats the 5V from the USB Port.
I checked it up it should be 0.38A, 1.9W at 5V.
Very easily Dimable so, yes, do it yourself!

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