How would you rig up your houses electriity box to tell you which outlet, specifically, is having electricity drained from it?
I got the idea because at one point in my life, my family had two homes. We had electricity in them both, but only lived in one because of reasons. No, it's not because we're rich, it was because of a divorce, and then we needed to go to a better school. etc.
anyway. We had neighbors sneak over while we weren't occupying the house and rig up extension cords so they could sap our electricity.... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>935428 Because the house was unoccupied, everything was unplugged, but my mother kept the power on because we visited occasionally to clean it up. When your electricity bill goes up to $50 a month despite using absolutely no power for lights, heat or flushing the toilet, there's only a few things it could be.
My Mom's water heater fell through the floor of her trailer.
What's the easiest way to get it out of the hole and either fix the hole or come up with a more temporary solution until I can get a professional in there? I was thinking of crawling under the house with a car jack and seeing if that can hold it up long enough. How stupid of an idea is that?
Pic related, that's what she sent me. Thanks in advance.
Yeah, that's an IEC C13/C14 connector (usually just IEC). You'll sometimes hear them called "kettle leads", which is actually something different. Easy to pick up in any kind of electricals or hardware shop.
No idea what that audio DC connector is for, though. Speaker power, I assume.
I have a concrete/regular drill , a cordless dremel, and a wired dremel knockoff with various wheels and bits.
I need to figure out how to drill a 1-5/8" hole without a hole saw. I need to make a 1-5/8" hole in a steel bracket and another same size hole in a metal salad bowl. I'm wondering if there is a way I can cut the circle out using a wheel with my dremel or not.
I'm trying to make a bracket like this http://shop.cwandt.com/products/tripod-light?variant=254796582 and the metal salad bowl will be my shade. I'm using this... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>935279 Draw your 1 5/8 circle with a clean sharpie (that hasn't been used for a /b thread), drill as many holes inside the circle as you can, then use one of your dremels with a stone to grind out to your sharpie outline. The salad bowl is probably stainless, you may have to knock some starter holes with a nail, and it'll take longer. If you try the drill use a lubricant, a good sharp bit, and good luck. This will all take you some time. Assuming you know something about safety and procedure when drilling holes in... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Thanks for the replies. I would have bought the lamp with clamp but here in Canada, it's around 23 dollars for one that can handle 150 watt bulb. I got the lamp socket with cord for 6 and the stainless steel salad bowl was 2 bucks.
/k/ here. I humbly request your shared knowledge on hydraulic shot presses. I could always just buy one, and still may, but I like to build things for myself. Can anyone provide schematics, or a parts list, or any other advice for building a 20 ton shop press? Will be used for bending sheet and plate and pipe, but also to press the occasional barrel into the odd trunnion, and who knows maybe I'll rebuild a bearing or two.
Going for basically pic related, but much taller, and possibly on a cart or with its own wheels.
My biggest obstacle here is that I am shit at welding. So my question here is can a build like this be done with just nuts and bolts and bushings? Are there any deal breaking cons to building a press which is held together with huge nuts and bolts rather than welded joints?
Additional questions. What gauge rectangular tubing/ channel/angle sock should be used for the frame to withstand around 25-30 tons of load. I want to overburdened it in case I someday decide I need more dakka.
>>935269 >What gauge rectangular tubing/ channel/angle sock should be used for the frame to withstand around 25-30 tons of load. I want to overburdened it in case I someday decide I need more dakka. The AISC has a very handy resource available that details exactly how to calculate loads. Start from the beginning of the code book and you might actually learn something useful. It will answer all your questions. If you want to just be on the safe side then i'd go with 3" thick solid steel square stock.
I was pretty happy with a cheap 2 gallon tank compressor, the same one I use for my brad nailers and car tires. I put an air-dryer in line and I didn't seem to have any problems attributable to the air line. (I couldn't into airbrush for a couple hours, then I figured it out and things went smoother)
I was painting Warhammer minis and after I got it down I got a nice thin even coat on pretty easily. Windex is a great thinner for citadel paints.
So almost any compressor comes with a pressure regulator. The tank runs from 120-150 psi ish depending on specs. When it hits 120 the compressor kicks back on, and when it hits 150 it turns off. (I actually made those numbers up, they almost certainly aren't correct, but they are sort of ball-park ish) The regulator keeps the stuff in your hose at whatever PSI you want, as long as it's lower than the tank, so air brushing isn't a problem.
As I recall I didn't even have a big problem with uneven flow when the tank was filling. A lot of people get away with not even using a tank and just running right off a little tiny continuous compressor for their airbrush, but getting a small wood working/construction compressor/tank isn't much more and then you can use your tools with it too.
To use it I had to get an 'airbrush adapter' so it goes from 1/4" hose to 1/8" hose. I also got an air dryer, it's just a little glass bulb with a copper screen you put in your air line that condenses water out of the line. Make sure you dial the pressure down if you had used it with a normal tool earlier.
I am a newb at model painting though so maybe I'm full of shit, but I was happy with it.
>>935230 yes if the dimmer is a chopper type thing which inevitably it is then it wont work with inductive loads which is exactly what a motor is. well, it will work but the dimmer will be under a much greater load and could melt and explode. this is why things like dimmers and occupancy sensors have different ratings depending on the lamp technology, fl, cfl, halogen, led etc.
>>935230 Those motors that come inside cat fountains are usually pretty small and low current and, if I recall, have a disconnect plug half way down the wire. With a little bit of calculation, you may be able to insert a resistor in to the disconnect plug to throttle the motor down a little by limiting the current to the motor.
>>935237 Strike that. Even though that solution may still work, first things first. Remove the pump from the cat bowl and look for a small knob on it. Turn the knob all the way down and reinstall the pump. Problem solved.
Hey /diy/! I have been into hobby robotics for about 6 years now. I already have a 3-d printer and I've been using the hell out of it for the last year. My problem is that the parts just aren't strong enough even printed in ABS on the bigger stuff I am doing. My questions are these: Are tabletop milling machines and lathes accurate and powerful enough? Mostly aluminum, with the occasional mild steel part, and on that stuff not much more than keyways and etc. What are some good brands? I have been saving for a while to buy some decent stuff, and I have found a full size Jet knee-type close to me for 1800, but it just seems overkill. That and the size is an issue too. Weight and size is going to make moving it a bitch. I'm using my utility room on my house, and while weight isn't an issue because of the slab floor, size certainly is. I figure I can put a tabletop lathe in the area too if I can use a tabletop milling machine. What do you people use?
>>935226 >Are tabletop milling machines and lathes accurate and powerful enough? yes
>What are some good brands? grizzly stocks parts for their machines in their us warehouse, when you break something it is a pain in the dick to wait for parts from china. in my understanding the small machines are all made in the same chinese factory, so brand is largely irrelevant.
> I have found a full size Jet knee-type close to me for 1800, get it, Ive been very pleased with my jet mill, its easier to do small work on a big machine than vise versa
>Weight and size is going to make moving it a bitch. i lift my mill with an automotive engine hoist, then roll it on pipes. i can move it by myself if i need to. i used the same engine hoist to move the lathe.
>What do you people use? i have a jet jvm836 mill and a harbor freight 12x36 lathe. ive had to order lathe parts from china, it took 11 weeks to get them. On the mill i have only ever had to replace the electrical switch, it shipped from cali and arrived within a week. i bought the lathe in 2000 and the mill in 2001.
>>935226 Various thoughts- 1) your pic shows a round-column mill, and most people agree that square-column mills are more desirable as they don't lose the head accuracy if you adjust the head up and down 2) smaller mills are cheaper but conventional vertical mills are only really accurate over about the center 1/3 of the table's left-to-right movement. the weight of the table itself makes the whole thing sag if you crank it off to either side. ALL vertical mills do this, even the big & expensive ones. 3) no mini-mill I've ever seen has a nod adjustment on the head, so you can't tram them perfectly. only one mid-size mill I've ever seen (online) had it. All normal Bridgeport-style full-size mills have it. so if you want maximum-possible-accuracy, you must use a full-size mill that is trammed correctly 4) (In the US) Jet is often said to be the best of the mini-China/Taiwan metalworking machines. Grizzly is second-best, but has the best parts support. You get what you pay for. 5) I have a grizzly G0619 mill. The only thing I don't like is the lack of head nod. And I'd like to motorize it (or CNC it) but can't yet... 6) I also have a grizzly G9972Z lathe. It only threads one-way, so you can't cut backwards threads with it (some people make a gear to allow this tho). It is belt-drive so if you crash it, the belt just slips (I did that once). Mainly I wish it would turn slower than it does, the lowest speed is 150 RPMs and I'd like it better if it was 1/3 that--but the only way to change that is to electronically control the synchronous AC motor, which isn't cheap. Or convert it to a brushless motor, which also isn't cheap.
You're going to have to provide more details on how precisely you intend to read & write - like the setup, I realize you are asking about the method. Unless you mean you need both setup AND method in which case you clearly don't possess the knowledge to be able to pull this off successfully.
>>935189 I find it rather interesting that ostensibly you can write code for an FPGA but you don't know to consult either the datasheet for DDR memory or go find the standards documentation for DDR memory to find this information and/or understand this information? No bully, but: Are you sure you know enough about what you're trying to do to be working with what you're trying to work with, here?
I have a table that's 35 inches by 90 inches. It currently only has 4 legs. However its not very stable. Where is the best spot for me to place two extra legs I have to make it stable. I was thing in the center maybe 30inches in.
This man was throwing out these regulated power supply's at an old speaker store and I got ahold of them. He mentioned they were broken but didn't say what was broken, which gave me the Idea that I could use parts from both to make one functioning again....well, hopefully.
I plugged in the one on the right first in order to see if anything was visually out of the ordinary and well.......This part exploded. I haven't tried the other one yet lol
The capacitors all blew out, but since it had voltage in it, I dare... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>935074 Well, telling us the type of electricity it takes, its voltage and its amperage would help us out. Without that information I can only guess. I'm assuming its 12 volts DC and draws under an amp so you can probably get by with a simple rheostat.
All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.
This is a 4chan archive - all of the content originated from them. If you need IP information for a Poster - you need to contact them. This website shows only archived content.
If a post contains personal/copyrighted/illegal content you can contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org with that post and thread number and it will be removed as soon as possible.