I didn't see one so I am gonna open it in the hopes that someone can help.
Two years ago I did a course in which I studied AutoCAD, I was really good at it but forgot most of it since then, so I am trying to refresh it. Now when I studied I used the standard of my country, and now I am interested in using an international or european standard as I am in a different country.
Would you be able to point me in the right direction as what kind of landscape and portrait templates(image related) are used in Europe as a general basis for Industrial Maintenance area.... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>928999 The 'standards' are just print sizes. There's no standards designed for the title block. Just put the titleblock on the bottom of the unbound side of the plans, i.e. opposite the staples.
Title blocks usually are organized with information vertically in more or less this order: Project title Drawing description Drawing number Scale (either the scale used or the word 'varies' if multiple drawings or sections in different scales are present) Page number Revision Architect/engineer... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Anyone here is going or has gone smart house route when building / renovating home? With my better part we are about to begin renovating a floor (around 100m^2) in her parents house. Parents live downstairs, we will have upper floor (and latter attic) for our self. Some things like windows and doors are already in place and probably can not be modified in any significant way (like electric add on for roller shutters). Front door (we are making a separate entry are not done yet so there is space fore some smart things there. I was thinking about NFC door lock but have... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>928992 If you are tearing down walls anyway I would put in network cables. cat5e or cat6 is the in thing now I suppose. It won't add value to your house because people just use WiFi
Personally I think smart house is dumb as shit unless you properly do it yourself from scratch otherwise you luck yourself in to software and hardware and a few years later when some new aspect comes along and your vendor goes bankrupt you are fucked.
I replaced some security lights with separate pir and lamps and built a monitor... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>929019 >It won't add value to your house because people just use WiFi If you put them in sensible places and break them out to modular jacks, they can be quickly and painlessly converted to telephone, HDMI, etc.
You need to put a lot of thought into catching everywhere a wallplate might be needed, though. Like being "nearly pregnant", there's no point in a house with modular jacks "nearly everywhere" you need one.
And it means putting them in the ceilings... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
It may not need to be perpendicular to the longitudinal center line. Most planes have built in down and left thrust. This is to offset torque and the center of drag being higher than the thrust line respectively. Most high wing planes have down thrust. So don't assume it needs to be be fixed. Is that a factory install or did you install the motor?
It's not supposed to be. The motors make too much torque for the size of the plane. If there aren't canted properly it becomes uncontrollable or you need to use all your control authority just to maintain level flight.
I was wondering how much of an investment, time-wise, it would be to pick it up as a skill. I buy clothing quire rarely - part of the reason being that reasonably priced stuff either a) fits terribly, b) falls apart in under a year, or c) both.
I'm not really at the income bracket where I can afford to pay a tailor for practically every piece of clothing I own, so I figure this could be a happy middle. Obviously I'm not going to be making my own suits right out the gate (though that's definitely a long-term goal)... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Buy thrift or factory outlet and learn to alter clothing to fit you well. Start with thrift, practice altering t-shirts (should be under $1 at any thrift store) to fit your torso. Then move up to pants. It helps if you are relatively thinner than normal, as it's very easy to take in, while harder to let out. Then move up to altering sport coats, as long as the shoulder fit is good, altering is simple. Suits are the final stage, again work on cheap ones before moving... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Hey guys. I have run into a bump in my attempt to make a pendant. I am basically just trying to solder together the silver wires shown in this pic using a oxy/propane jewelers torch. It is a very delicate process and I am not able to use the torch next to the gemstone (labradorite). My plan was to use clay/paste that I could mold into the shape of the gemstone, set up the wires on the clay/paste replica where they need to be, and then solder the joints using silver solder. I bought some high temp firing clay and tested my torch on it. The clay started shooting dried up chips... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>928931 hello. I currently don't have the back made yet but i do have how I want the design drawn out on paper. I am planning to intertwine the back and front pieces once I have the pieces soldered. I am unfamiliar with "retention rings". I am still new at this.
I didn't see a stupid question thread, but I have a stupid question. I need to get the battery cover off of this maglite (the part circled in red). Only problem is, it's stuck on there good. I've tried spraying it with the bottles in the pic, but they aren't showing any results. Are there any other methods I could try?
>>928904 To pairs of Channellocks and some rubber or tick cloth as suggested.
If its caused by a swollen/ruptured battery you might want to forget it. Because Mags aren't completely open at the other end its almost impossible to get bad batteries out of them without using a heat gun. Using a heat gun is risky. Considering I see them for sale at thrift stores and yard sales for under $10 all the time it might not be worth your effort. Yeah, they are great flashlights and an old Mag is just as good as a new one. Hence,... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Do you sharpen your drill bits? Impetus for the thread being that drilling some holes in mild steel dulled a 1/4" bit, so I went out and bought another one. I should have used oil.
If so, what sort of hobbyist work do you do? I'm assuming this is an essential skill for pro machinists and woodworkers and what not, of which I am certainly not.
I'm still figuring out the opportunity cost*monetary cost/benefit ratio of adding a bench grinder or a Drill Doctor to an already crowded garage and learning how to use it, and if adding another machine to... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I had an old machining book with a whole chapter on sharpening drill bits that basically said not to do it. At least not by eye with a grinder. If you are off by just a bit, only one side of the bit will be doing all the drilling. Also having the precis angle is very important for efficiency.
>>928831 >also a belt sander works as well Ah, thanks for reminding me that I have a belt sander. Well, it's more like a toy belt sander, but it hogs away metal like a champ.
I have a Ken Onion Work Sharp that my wife got me for Christmas a year ago. It gets a blade pretty crazy sharp, but I always preferred using waterstones despite the time it takes. The results from hand sharpening always seemed to be superior and the Work Sharp removes metal so fast it can round off the tip or... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
So I bought this Gerber folding knife (Scout) and I loved it but I hate how it looks. The huge BG initials and the signature I can live with, but the orange plastic looks awful in my opinion. What could I use to coat the plastic with? I'm looking for a grey/black coat that wouldn't wear off so easily and sustain some abuse.
>>928723 For a cool sciencey solution that might not work, rub the plastic with a microfiber cloth until it becomes statically charged (if it zaps you, you have to start again). That way the dust will stick to the plastic when you move it and hopefully not become airborne.
For a more down to earth solution, get a spraybottle of water and spray lightly mist the plastic. Wet dust will stick together and not create a huge plume when you agitate it.
1. Will building a hho unit into my clio mk2 1.4 16v make a difference in gas usage/horsepower? 2. Is there a way that I can monitor my L/KM usage? Some kind of bdo2 monitor with a small screen of Some sort, that I can build into my dashboard?
I'm trying to replace the kitchen sink for the wife. Sure I could go hire someone to do this, but I've been reading all about it, watching YouTube, etc. I can't even get any of these loose to remove the old faucet. What tools do I need? I've tried with my hand, wrench, and just leverage with random tools, but nothing. And I'm guessing it's an old design, cause I haven't seen these on any video, and even the lines are copper (I've read that copper is old school these days).
Leave the faucet and remove it after you remove the sink, if you need it. Disconnect the drains and water supply lines. Use 2 wrenches on those copper lines. One on each side of the connection, hold one and spin the other one. Remember! Righty tighty, lefty loosey!
Hah, I never thought to remove the entire sink, and then remove the faucet. That sounds far more fun than trying to fit under the sink, in the dark, yelling profanities. Let me double-check, and see what removing the sink would entail...
Then remove those clips holding the sink to the counter (upper left in pic). Then use a thin putty knife or razor blade around the edge of the sink where it sits on your counter top, there is probably putty or silicone around that edge. Then use the faucet to help lift the sink away from the counter.
You can try epoxy and sanding/refinishing however if ther is any separation of the body and sides then you will need to secure this. My suggestion is if the guitar is worth more ham 1000 just take it to a licensed luthor. Otherwise ou will probably just fuck it up
I have a workout bar (link below) and I pretend to use it on my garage. The problem is it doesn’t fit anywhere. Blue bars are the existing structure of my garage, made of aluminum. The red cylinder is something I want to put there to hold one of the sides. Green is the representation of the acting forces. The red cylinder will be suffering a perpendicular force (green circle) every time I use the bar, so it must be well fixed. So I need something to fix that red cylinder to the blue structure or some kind of structure that acts as a support for the workout bar. It has... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
2 2x4 posts with a 45 degree angle support between them. Red is bolts, tighten them to clamp two sets of 2x4 with the support beam sandwiched between them; no glue or fastening to beam needed this way. Bar is blue.
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