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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 52. page
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File: fusor_tue_2.png (1 MB, 1116x656) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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I've always wanted to build a nuclear reactor.
Anyone here ever build a Fusor?
42 replies and 8 images submitted. Click here to view.
File: lower.jpg (64 KB, 550x469) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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And an example of the inside of one.
They're pretty neon lights.... and dangerous x-ray emitters.

What is the purpose of building something that is known not to work?
While you do use more energy to work the machine than it can put out, it does in fact do fusion and produce neutrons if fed deuterium gas.

File: Untitled1.jpg (576 KB, 1465x973) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Hello fellas, I built this "workbench" today from a couple pallets and liked the result, but it's kinda flimsy and I'm thinking of ways to reinforce it (It doesn't need to be pretty). I'm not into woodworking, that's why it may look amateurish.

Any advice or tips?
36 replies and 11 images submitted. Click here to view.
File: 1452483046226.jpg (584 KB, 1465x973) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Cross bracing anon. Strap of timber across the side, one on the back (drawn on the front for clarity), this should sort you out for now.
File: 1452483046226.jpg (589 KB, 1465x973) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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You need to brace as pictured to remove wobble.

I don't know how you're going to do that with pallets you're going to have to get creative. My table is made from 2x4's so design and bracing is super simple.
File: Untitled.jpg (580 KB, 1465x973) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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My plan was to use 2x4's, but everything in my country is very expensive and I was not willing to pay a lot of money for a simple workbench.

I have already nailed a board on the lower side (pic related), but ill try your suggestion. Thanks.

File: 2016-01-10 21.47.12.jpg (1 MB, 1920x1080) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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I don't know if many housebuilding type people are one here much but I'd kinda like an opinion on something, do ya'll think a small A-frame second story would look good on a 4:12 roof? I was never happy with this roof pitch, and the damn place is too small already.
25 replies and 7 images submitted. Click here to view.
Expensive way to get a small amount of shitty space.
But it's kinda the only way, all exterior walls have the (also expensive) siding up; an a-frame could be put directly on top of the existing roof so nothing would be wasted unlike if I tore off a wall of siding or a whole room.but all that being said I'm open to all ideas
It's not hard to remove siding remove plywood and build more on it
Especially if installed right you should be able to reuse alot of it

Hi guys, Im trying to configure my uC to measure the voltage on the PC0 pin, but nothing seems to work. This is my current code:

volatile uint32_t uhADC1ConvertedValue;

uint32_t getADCVal(){
return uhADC1ConvertedValue;

void ADC2_Init(){
ADC_InitTypeDef ADC_InitStructure;
ADC_CommonInitTypeDef ADC_CommonInitStructure;
DMA_InitTypeDef DMA_InitStructure;
GPIO_InitTypeDef GPIO_InitStructure;

uhADC1ConvertedValue = 1;

RCC_AHB1PeriphClockCmd(RCC_AHB1Periph_DMA2, ENABLE);
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5 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
GPIO_InitStructure.GPIO_Pin = GPIO_Pin_0;
GPIO_InitStructure.GPIO_Mode = GPIO_Mode_AN;
GPIO_InitStructure.GPIO_PuPd = GPIO_PuPd_NOPULL ;
GPIO_Init(GPIOC, &GPIO_InitStructure);

ADC_CommonInitStructure.ADC_Mode = ADC_Mode_Independent;
ADC_CommonInitStructure.ADC_Prescaler = ADC_Prescaler_Div2;
ADC_CommonInitStructure.ADC_DMAAccessMode = ADC_DMAAccessMode_Disabled;
ADC_CommonInitStructure.ADC_TwoSamplingDelay = ADC_TwoSamplingDelay_5Cycles;

ADC_InitStructure.ADC_Resolution = ADC_Resolution_12b;
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int main(void)
uint32_t rev;
int bb= 0;

rev = getADCVal(); //enc28j60getrev();

rev = getADCVal();


return rev;

I check the value of rev in the debugger, but its always 0:( what is wrong with my program?
well, the value is always 1, actually, but thats because i assign that value in the ADC2_Init function.

File: image.jpg (214 KB, 960x720) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Hey diynos, I had a party at my place and woke up with pic related. I had an older leather couch pressed near the wall, didn't know the corner was exposed and the steel edge dug into the drywall something fierce when one of my buddies laid back into the wall. So now I'm stuck with this, coke can for reference. Best way to fix it? California patch wouldn't be ideal, but I will do what I have to do. Thank you for any advice you may have.
8 replies and 4 images submitted. Click here to view.
File: image.jpg (193 KB, 960x720) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Pic 2/3
File: image.jpg (228 KB, 960x720) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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4/3 decided a pic of the drywall under the pain layer would be handy

Dudes help me with a survival guide
8 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
For what? What scenario?
So, help me with a basic survival guide

File: archway-x.jpg (21 KB, 450x300) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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So I bought this 105 year old house. Its still got trim up from I am assuming the early 70's or earlier. Its all really wide and thick trim. They have been painted over atleast two or three times with white paint. It looks good and has a clean modern look, my wife and I prefer that dark chestnut wood stain you find in old homes. I got two floors of this trim/baseboard, about 6 doorways, and two large archways. It would be a big, messy, and tedious task.

What I want to know is how long wood it taketo strip paint, sand, stain, seal. Keep in mind I got kids too. I dont...
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2 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
OP here. One lther question would be, for a task like this, something that is easily noticeable to the eye. Is it worth spending the money on a pro rather than slugging it out yourself?

File: spring-thing.png (12 KB, 886x485) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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I come to you with a vocabulary question and a terrible illustration.

I am looking for something much like a pogo stick, but a great deal shorter, perhaps four to eight inches. You could also consider it a shock absorber, but I thought those were hydraulic. It would need fasteners on each end, plus some mechanism to keep it together.

They'd come with a variety of spring constants so I could Hooke's Law out how far it would move under a given force.

Does this thing exist, and if so, what is it called?
7 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
I guess that'd just be called a spring. A spring and a shock absorber are two fundamentally different things. A spring reacts with a force proportional to how it is compressed or tensed. A shock absorber reacts with a force proportional to the speed with wich its end is displaced.

Why do you need to encase the spring in these cylinders?
Depending on the forces involved you could use pvc pipe or perhaps get a telescopic fork from a crashed motorcycle. When bent the fork tubes are basically scrap metal, but they're usually bent within the top 6 inches or...
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Encasing the spring in the cylinders ensures motion parallel to the spring's axis.

I figure someone just had these sorts of things already made but I guess not.
Toilet paper roll holder

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The price to buy a wind mill to generate electricity is outrageous. I don't understand why they cost thousands of $$$$.
Why cant I hook up an altinator from a car to a wind mill to charge a battery?
It seems like a simple idea, and I have the ability to make the wind mill.
38 replies and 4 images submitted. Click here to view.
using a windmill to generate electricity is going about it all wrong op
you should be using a wind turbine to generate electricity.
if you wanna connect the blades directly to the alternator, it wont work coz the rotational speed is too low. you'd have to rewire the alternator to compensate. however if you have a windmill, then presumably you can use gears or belts to obtain the necessary speed, so it could work unaltered.
Because they're low production volume items and a car alternator that is made in the millions still costs like $300.


Just because you can put together a system from scrap doesn't mean the company building a commercial product can too.

File: IMG_0218.jpg (415 KB, 540x720) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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I've got this magnetron here. Is the white ceramic part aluminum oxide or beryllium oxide?

I've tried google, but everything I find says beryllium, I have a hard time believing this though. Why would it be beryllium oxide when aluminum oxide would be cheaper?

Anyway, just looking for a second opinion.
20 replies and 3 images submitted. Click here to view.
If it is beryllium I suggest you not directly touch it. BeO is pretty toxic, although you shouldn't have any problems unless some material is scraped off and you inhale the dust.
what makes a magnetron dangerous: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cGZsGN8PzU4
It's quite toxic if you breath it in, don't shadier it. It's used because of its electrical and electro magnetic properties

File: loftinsulation_081310.jpg (307 KB, 600x404) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Anyone familiar with insulation and/or roofing?

>Here is my dillema:

This house is a bit over 100 years old, there is a living space in the attic, however it gets over 100 degrees in the summer, and cold in the winter (California). I've gutted the old Celotex walls and ceiling and haven't found any moisture issues or a drop of water even with all the rain we've been getting so the roofing is in good shape. There is no plywood or any sheathing on the roof or walls, just planks on ceiling with an inch space between them,...
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10 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
Keep it a cold roof system don't make it a living space
I think you have to put vapor barrier up too to keep the moisture away from the foam and outer wall/roof. You will also need a way to ventilate hot air in the summer.
It's not a good idea to do insulate that.

File: 20160110_142113.jpg (1015 KB, 2048x1152) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Hello /diy/

I purchased a Marshall 250 dfx with a couple broken connections. Soldered most.
I am missing one component on the board and was wondering if anyone here has an idea
10 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
The missing piece is right in the center of the picture and b/w two identical pieces. Trying to figure out what it is.
If you are referring to R24 then it appears to have not been installed from the factory (IE: "should" be missing).
Yeah, its supposed to not be there. They do that sometimes when they change the design but don't want to pay to have the manufacturer change the board. Among other reasons.

File: rectify this.jpg (140 KB, 654x677) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
rectify this.jpg
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I'm trying to rectify a sine wave from my laptop (generated by a simple oscillator in Reaktor). It's only half-rectifying though. I've tried various things, including a different set of diodes.

Any ideas?
29 replies and 11 images submitted. Click here to view.
Post a schema ! But very likely ground problem : your laptop ground is differnt from rectified ground !
File: scematic.jpg (49 KB, 700x511) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Yeah the ground on the jack is the brown one going into the bottom half. I can see how there might be a problem there but can't quite get it.
The "AC source" means just the tip (top half) and sleeve (bottom half) of the output jack.

So I decided to build a oven for various projects, heat is always needed!
The plan is to scavenge the heating elements from a sauna heater which are abundant here in the land of glory and heroes . The oven itself is easily created out of fire bricks.
But is there some thingamajig that could regulate three phase heaters? I presume these heaters work with phase to phase voltages that translate to 380V. I can follow the heat inside the oven with some probe so no automation is needed, just a knob to turn which regulates the heat inside. The amount of power needed to be regulated...
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19 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
I'm building one too, but mine uses normal wall outlet electric. Just 124v 15A 1850W maxes for the outlets it would use. It will be heavily insulated so that only a small amount of power will be needed to build up a lot of heat.

Since you are using fire bricks, what will this oven be used for? Normally you only use fire bricks for some heavy duty, high temp use like a foundry & furnace or kiln. Otherwise, the bricks will take forever to heat up for lower temperatures.

Mine is just for food cooking...
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I honestly got my cooker for free. I have no idea why you feel the need to build an oven.
My friend is a blacksmith (that earns his living with smithing) and we were talking about steel one day driving around. I unfortunately don't know the vocabulary in English but certain shit you do to steel needs specific temperatures. You know what I'm talking about. I want those temperatures and it won't be too hard to build the oven part. But to control the temperature one needs a way to regulate it. And this is something that is new for me. Three phase regulation.

And with the option to turn...
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Dear /diy/

I have a 5W, 18V, .28 mah solar panel and I want to convert the voltage to around 5v, and increase the amperage to at least .5mah. How could I do this?
6 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
if you can into schematics and datasheets, look up this regulator chip, or similar: AP34063

otherwise, ready made circuits can be found by googling. one easy way is to use a Blackberry car adapter (charger) with takes in 10-25V and puts out 5V. $3 at the thrift store. other brands may work, but are not specifically rated for 25V.
It's not 'milliampere-hours', it's just milliamps, and it's not '0.28mA', that would be 280 *microamps*, it's 280 *milliamps*, or 0.28A.

Now, then.. what you need is a step-down (or 'buck') switching power supply. Since you need 5V (not 'around' 5V, it's *5V*) you can get a module that does this off-the-shelf -- which in your case is a good thing, since I don't have much faith at this point in your being able to actually construct one.
..oh, and since you're confused about it: 'milliampere-hours' is a unit of measure you'd use for a *battery*, not a solar panel of any kind; it's a unit of measure with regards to *storage capacity*.

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