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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 53. page
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Hey /diy/!
I'm searching a method to etching my pcb...i'm in italy and ferric cloride can't be sell...any soluion?
Sorry for bad joke at end lol
11 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
You can use hydrogen peroxide and hydrochloric acid to etch

Copper chloride. By far my favorite. It's extremely cheap, works well, and never needs disposal.

This. Peroxide allows the HCl to dissolve the copper on the board, which normally happens at a rate way too slow to be useful, and the resulting green solution is one of copper chloride, which is also a good etchant, as >>1043460 said.

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Would this work, or will the efficiency be terrible since the charger requires 100-240v?
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Entirely possible that the charger simply won't work. Most switching supplies like that require a minimum of ~80V.

Just get a 6V/12V charger and us that instead. Just make sure it's switchmode, not linear.
So you're saying a higher voltage charger will have a lower minimum input?

btw, thanks for the fast reply
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Hey, so I've got no talent for this.

I had to get my front wheel off, it was stuck and I didnt a rubber mallet or anything decent to knock it out with, so I used a screw driver and a wrench to punch it out.

The screwdriver ended up damaging the threads of the axle and I couldnt get the nut on anymore.
So I bought a thread file and cleaned it up, however it only goes half way in now, I've repaired most of the damage but on one spot on the far end it's slightly thinner, the outer part of the nut can't get past it by hand strength.

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go buy a die of the right size & pitch
tried to look for one that fits at the locally, none of the stores got one in the right size. would need to order and prefer to ride this weekend.

wouldnt it work taking a file and lowering the first line of the thread, where the nut wont pass by?
i'd clean off the thread, put marker all over the thread, then put on the nut as far as you can. take off the nut and do your work with the file carefully where the marker is worn

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Hi /diy/ - is it safe to plug two surge protectors into an extension cord? I was told not to plug a surge protector into another surge protector, so I was wondering if I could instead plug them both into an extension cord. Would this be safe?
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The problem with plugging a surge protector into something besides a receptacle is that it might result in too much load on a single circuit, which may result in the wire heating, melting the insulator, and causing a fire.
yes its safe... but you can simply plug the extension cord into the surge protector and achieve the same result
It depends entirely on what you're plugging into it. If it's all low-power stuff, you can load up a bunch of shit into it. If you want a fridge and five microwaves next to the pool outside, you're gonna blow the breaker/fuse

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Post your most recent projects.
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hey i'm actually trying to build something like this for rear surround sound speakers right now, but it can't it can't get it even so it doesn't wobble; it stands up okay but it's uneven as hell and ugly - any insight?
My first one did sway quite a bit actually. I opted for MDF over the scrap particle board I was using which made the bases a bit more sturdier. I'd recommend you sand the bottoms and the tops of your bases and both the tops and bottoms of your inner posts to make sure they're flat. It's also vital that the posts are all exactly cut to length. If you're using screws, use more than one on each post as it just creates a pivot point otherwise. Eventually I opted to glue the posts which I probably should...
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Wouldn't it fall due Vibration and stuff?

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Not sure this is the most appropriate place but here it is anyway.
For several days now my toilet has been clogged to some degree (voilently ill for days, unable to plunge it sooner) and now it's completely unable to drain no matter what I do.
Plunging endlessly is beyond hope and can't accomplish anything other than putting a vile liquid on my floor.
I have a bacterial drain cleaner but it does nothing because I can't flush it to get it to the clog further down.
I got my hands on what I'm fairly sure is a toilet snake but either it's not...
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Do you have a wet/dry vac? I think I'd try sucking everything out, then removing the toilet bowl to get rid of the bend, and either pour cleaner right into the drain or try to clear it with the snake or vacuum.

Something seems kinda off about your whole situation, though (Poppy seeds? Can't call a plumber? Uh huh), but that's none of my business.
Trying to keep the people I'm living with (my parents because I'm disabled) from knowing I made poppy seed tea (basically a legal narcotic) a couple times recently because it would cause problems even if they realize I'm not an addict.
Not to mention that it just plain stinks soon after you're done with the seeds.
I don't look forward to the smell it would put out while working but using my Shop-Vac is a great idea. I'll go buy a better plunger before I try that because I think my cheapo one isn't getting a decent seal.
Part of the...
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I'm all about DIY. but when it comes to this, just call in the pros. Theyll get it done faster than you ever could.

For fucks sake the other anon is suggesting removing the stool completely. Thats a lot of work you can fuck up if you don't know how to or can't fix it afterwards.

Not to mention youve been sick, the last thing your immune system needs is to be fucking around with the sewage parts of your home.

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Dad bought a used shaving brush in some flea market from a stranger. Was in shit condition, I peeled and sanded down all the varnish from the handle and put a dark + clear coat of new varnish and it looks great now, I'll give it back as a present (pic unrelated, camera broken ATM).

But how do I really sanitize it? I always bought new, myself. Hot water + soap + vinegar isn't enough for some stranger with possible AIDS and anthrax or whatever; will tiny diluted amount of bleach risk the varnish and/or whiskers? How about alcohol? How far can I push these? Any...
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Soap and water. Are you a lunatic hypochondriac?
>Are you a lunatic hypochondriac
But also, would you pick up a stranger's shaving brush, just dip it in hot water and use it on yourself as-is?
If he only got it for the shape of the handle, just completely replacing the knot(the hair part) is your best option. The Golden Nib sells a few grades of badger, and I believe the have boar if you want to stick with that. Badger is softer, doesn't require soaking before each use, and works better, but some people like a stiffer brush, so they'll take the time to break in a boar hair one.

Alternately, hot water, soap, and vinegar is fine too clean and sanitize it. Even the real nasty shit can't survive out by itself for more than a couple weeks. You could...
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Bought a couple engines on busted pressure washers. Will be mounting 24V and 12 volt automotive type alternators. I have watched all the youtubes (knurlgar prolly most intelligent) anyone done this? Is there a direct mounting option that will last? IE; a claw coupler rated for 3600rpm high torque or is belt drive the only way to go? Is ther a site you use for pulleys, woodruff keys etc? Pic related, (the ONLY commercially manufactured gas powered DC charger). But its 800 bucks and long lead time (from Oz)
I need high amperage as possible doing LiPo battery research (have...
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>the ONLY commercially manufactured gas powered DC charger
heh i saw a $20 800W gas powered generator with a 12V 30A output this weekend. must have been 20+ years old.
Belt drive. 100% easier to make and maintain.
Would agree. You could use a shaft coupler but it would be a lot of work to set up and you would need to make a shaft adaptor for the alternator.

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I'm looking for project ideas in which an x-acto knife is the primary tool. I remember hollowing out book when I was younger in order to store my prized baseball cards. Anyone have any suggestions?
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You can carve wood.

Or cut your femoral artery.
you can carve wood, soapstone, make a chess set for example, i remember when i was a kid i made a chess set from soapstone, though you should be careful not to drop it cause it's very brittle and soft, also you can make miniature ships with balsa wood i believe they sell kits like those but you can just buy the balsa strips and build your own design
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I like the idea of carving balsa. I loved balsa wood airplanes when I was a kid

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Get a new fridge.
Plug it in and listen to the soft hum as it comes to life.
Suddenly a low inconsistent scratching/sucking/rattling noise begins.
It just keeps going and it starts working on my nerve. Manual says that it could be the gasses and is normal. Usually settles. Fridge is leveled.
Been 3 days now and is driving me insane. Can hear it throughout the entire apartment. People tell me it's so quiet, but it works on my nerves like listening to a dripping tap.

Didn't think something so inconsequential would annoy me so much. Do I cut my losses...
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After 3 days i wouldn't wait for it to disappear. Do you have any warranty anon?
Check the freezer drawers and see if something is loose, I had a terribly noisy fridge until I shifted the cold packs I had in the freezer around.
get a white noise generator, make your own, and/or get a mic and speaker setup near there and cancel out that noise.

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Hey /diy/

I have been wanting a Raspberry Pi-like for a while, but since it's so fucking expensive where in my country I decided to make this a personal project and build my own. It obviously doesn't need to be as powerful/beautiful/compact as the Raspberry Pi itself.

The issue is that I don't exactly know where to start. I am not a total layman, I got some electronics knowledge, a robotics background (mostly doing simple stuff like line followers etc) and am majoring in EE (first year though) but it seems that this is some other kind of monster.

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>expensive in my country

Auto fix'd.
Going to cost you more to make than import.

But if you still want to, start with the requirements.
Obviously USB.

And no idea how you're going to solder any kind of decent chip manually without experience.

Unless by "Raspberry Pi" you mean a generic dev board in which case it's a whole lot easier.
This will cost more than its worth by several orders of magnitude.

If you cant afford a raspberry pi then get an orange pi. And if you cant afford that then you got some serious problems mate.

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Hi /diy/,

I've recently been remodelling my new house and as such I've need to move a few light switches etc.

I thought I'd mapped the electrical system of the house out properly beforehand, dead checks performed etc. however when I went to cut one of the cables, it turns out it was live. Whether this was a cable that I'd misidentified or something I don't know, but there we go.

Anyway, the cable shorted between live and neutral or live and earth (which one I don't know as I cut the cable in one cut with a pair of snips).

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Hey Anon

Mapping out electrics is handy, helps us not hit cables. Having worked in computer networks I'm baffles as to why our electric cables are all fucking grey but our network cables are rainbowed so we know what goes where.


9/10 times anything I've cut accidentally, even when live, once re-connected has worked.

In the occasions it hasn't, the fusebox with the RCD etc has just needed a new fuse (normally these days they just automatically flick off when there is a problem but the fuse may have blown).

I'd try...
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That was the idea! Sadly I was an idiot an assumed it was dead.

I'm baffled as to why it's not energised, the lights on the ground floor are all fed off the same fuse (including the ones that are currently not working), the fuse is fine, the rest of the lights are working, just not the lights in the part of the house I am working on (which is an addition post-build, leading me to beleive there's a mystery junction somewhere!).

Thanks for the help man.
When you re-wired it, maybe you didn't re-wire it correctly? Annoyingly there are a few different ways to wire up a single system. By-the-book rules for how to wire a few lights up now, if applied to a much older house, might blow something on the old house.

It's a nightmare. I often buy houses from the 1950-1970s for letting out and they completely don't match the electrics in my 2008 own home.

I have got into the habit of taking a picture of the wiring arrangement on any socket/switch/light...
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I just bought a house and I'm doing major renovations, nothing outside my skill set so that's not what this thread is about. More I'm looking for opinions and if possible first hand experience.

Main considerations, 1 floor house with basement, 1st floor is 4 bedroom with solid red oak floors throughout aside from the kitchen and bathroom. Floors need to be refinished and that's what I'm looking for opinions on.

I'm about halfway done with the master bedroom. I'm going to refinish the floor in the master bedroom first and do the...
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it depends on the style of your house.

What looks right for a colonial wouldn't be good for a contemporary, etc.
It's a ranch tract house, no character. Plywall and paint grade pine millwork. Every fixture is coming out, there's no furniture except for my bedroom set, anything will fit at this point. There aren't even appliances.
to be honest I would NOT stain it and go natural as that tends to work the best with just about everything. Do you have pictures of the sanded wood?

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I don't do a lot of /diy/ stuff so I need some guidance here. I bought a cheap particleboard dresser set from Target and put the thing together only to realize I'm missing four plastic fasteners that hold the final drawer together (like pic related but much longer). I tried calling the manufacturer and they were no help, and Home Depot and the local fastener store didn't carry anything like it. The holes are pre-drilled and too wide for normal screws or nails. What is the best way to fix this problem?

I thought about buying some dowel rods, cutting them...
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>(like pic related but much longer)
How long?
Couldn't you ignore those holes- either plug them or whatever, and just drive regular screws next to them?
Drywall anchors?

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Any of you guys familiar with vinyl wrap for vehicles, tell me everything you know, is it difficult to install? what does it cost? what are the profits like? I enjoy designing and customizing but in my area there isn't a big demand for wrap vehicles for advertisement purposes, but im thinking maybe I could wrap and resell other objects let me know what you know thanks!!
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to answer your questions in order:

yes it is
it is expensive
unless you live in an area with lots of people, you probablyl wont profit much and the cost of doing this will probably put you in the hole.

not sure what else you can wrap... dont forget the bigger it is the more wrap you need and the more time to install it. theres a reason a mom and pop shop doesnt do this. its not cost effective advertising
well actually I do know of a mom and pop type place that does this an 1.5 hours away from me in a larger town.... I assume you could wrap anything that has a smooth surface....also do you do this for a living?
Not other anon, but I worked in a tint shop that did it.
If you're doing a van like in op pic, its relatively easy.
But then you get into cars with a lot of complex curves and it gets a lot harder.
Its generally not one piece, so getting it to line up with the next panel is tricky when you have to stretch it to conform to the body shape.
Equipment is expensive. If you have someone else print the vinyl, you just lost half your profit.

Its not just advertising, we had a lot of ricers who wanted...
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Are there any easy to install locks that only lock from the outside, like possibly a lock that you only have to screw in on the inside of the door. I'm thinking of a lock for a bedroom, nothing really to keep burglars out, but roommates from just walking in while I'm away.
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This is a 'Rim lock'

It is easy to install, you need to drill a hole through the door too. You can get a deadlock only versions. Pic is my house I'm putting locks on the bedroom

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If metal has a non-uniform structure, then couldn't very small (countable numbers of atoms) substructures exist within it that are relatively strong compared to the rest of the metal, perhaps melting at a very slightly higher temperature?
If these structures exist, then it'd be neat to have a machine that can extract them from metal; a machine that heats up metal until it's only just melted, then somehow separates out miniscule-but-still-larger particles of it, producing a very small amount of an slightly stronger version of the metal in the form of a very fine powder.
Of course, you couldn't melt the powder to produce a solid form of the stronger metal since that would destroy the strong particles...
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Look up some metallurgy textbook if you're interested in this stuff. You are correct about normal metal having a micro crystalline structure and the individual crystal/grains will have different properties to the bulk. However, the presence of grain boundaries between the crystals is not necessarily detrimental to the properties of the bulk material. A big application of this is heat treating processes, for example when metals are quench hardened the material is much harder and can have higher yield strength despite...
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I don't believe that a purely crystalline structure is optimal for metals and am aware that they existed (never knew they existed for the more industrial metals though!), I was more interested in that strong but strange things might form as naturally occurring solid-state nanotechnology.

The max melting point of steel is apparently 1540C, but it'd be interesting to bring steel repeatedly up to 1541C then let it cool again, and see if it eventually stops melting.
Then if it does, see if you can push it further.
seems kinda retarded to just attempt to produce random unknown, substances then exact them en mass without understanding their properties. I would understand if you were talking about trying to find and isolate novel materials for study rather than production. I think this could be done to find something like novel minerals in nature but another way that related to the natural occurrence of ultra tough materials in sand would be abrasion. Just crush it into little pieces and the stuff that's more resistant to...
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The fuck are you going on about?
he says AC units are under engineered/designed.
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thanks for bumping a 2 day old thread. it was well on its way to being 404'd and you revived it.

and me having to reply to you has also.. see what you did? now the thread will take longer to 404. good job.

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I made the dumb mistake of leaving my phone on top of a buddy's car. I didn't realize it until about 3 minutes later and found it lying down in the middle of the street looking all busted. It was most likely ran over because I dropped it multiple times but it never once got this bad. Anyways, it is still alive and receives texts and calls. I was wondering if there was a way to control the phone over a pc or another phone and be able to see what is displayed on the screen. The phone does not light up or turn on unless the charger is plugged in and even then it is just...
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Figure out a way to screencast it to a TV?

Backup your photos and call it a loss.
Replace the screen check ebay.
>And touch screen is completely f'ed

replace it

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The subject says it all, I want to make a battleshots board playable with 25 cl glasses and foldable into a suitcase (or something of the sort). I'm asking for some advice on the way it's gonna be build and the materials I've chosen. As for the tools I own: jigsaw, hammer drill (and the hole saw bit), saw, metal saw, and the usual stuff. First time posting on this board by the way.

Here's the list of materials and the "blueprints" will be in the next post.

-Waterproof beaverboard 244x122cm, 18mm thick
-2 door hooks
-2 piano...
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Do it post progress
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Unfortunately, I'll start doing this after the 4th of september and I don't know if the tread will still be up by then but I'll make sure to keep it updated if it's still alive.

For the grids, I don't see myself making channels by hand with a file since I don't have a sander capable of doing it. So I'll probably just use pyrography to draw the lines properly.

I need to think of a way to stabilize it once open, but I think it can wait. It'll be all for today, I'll...
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Probably be more fun to do a shot if you miss.

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Just got back from the horrible fright

Apparently a lot of their smaller items are starting to get UL listings instead of Intertek

I was going to buy a few NEMA 15 plugs and noticed they had 2 styles, a UL listed and an Intertek version.

So I took them apart and thought I would let you guys play a guessing game at which is which

Also general tool listing/certification thread

Do you always buy UL?
Ever buy something thinking it was UL just to find out it was Intertek?
Ever buy a tool that was not certified in either?
Do you just not...
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Here's the other one
Notable differences:

One exclusively uses wood screws
It also has shorter base screws

The other has machine screws with a slightly tapered end, and has longer screws, and has a singe mark on the plastic, it also has dirty looking brass
I'll guess that the yellow one is UL and the white one is intertek, if for no other reason than the fact that it's a little easier to get UL to certify different colors of the same plastic.

Source: used to work for Molex

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I'm thinking about setting up 95 feet of addressable WS2801 300LED strips (yes, really) controlled by a programmable mircocontroller for muh effects.

What's the best way to go about powering them? Is connecting them all end-to-end and having one power source a good idea, or should each 5 meter strip be powered separately?

If I've calculated correctly, I should safely be able to use a 400w 12v power supply, but I'd like a double check.
I am hoping someone can shed light on setting this up safely so I don't fuck myself. Any other tips...
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You can get do 5V or 12V led, but if you do 12V you will have to use a mosfet to interface with the lights.

I don't know about WS2801, but with WS2812B you can add power where ever and it doesn't matter. If yours are the same I would suggest adding power in between strips. Also, you may have to boost your signal after so many strips. I have never daisy chained more than one 5m strip so I don't know what the limit is. Good luck OP!
You need to power each 5m seperately. I have a 3m low quality chink strip that has one end slightly diferent color due to resiistance in the strips pcb traces.
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That's just how diodes work...

But seriously apply power in between each strip for best results.

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Travel isn't an issue. Which tournament do you enter?

Also: does anyone know the specific rules?
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Travel IS an issue. Battlebots will pay for your travel fees, Robot Wars won't (which is why nearly everyone in RW is from the UK).

Battlebots rules here:
Robot Wars rules here:

Rules don't mean much for either, as they were both changed on-site mid filming. Besides, both competitions are invite/application only, they don't let just anyone in.

The amateur league, however, lets any random fucker with his Autism RC Car in.
I will not support this kind of thing until the following occurs

1) more weight classes, up to 10 tonne
2) fully autonomous robots allowed
2a) jamming other pilot's control is made legal
3) no restrictions on weapons outside of the really dangerous stuff e.g. tac nukes, NBC (which obviously wouldn't work on other robots anyway), and dispropotionately large munitions (e.g. you can't enter 10 tonnes worth of fuel-air explosives with a remote detonator and call it a compeditor)

it's meant to be robot WARS, not weak ass bitch robot slapfight bullshit
and by ten tonne I meant as a minimum, e.g. additional 25, 50, 75, 100 etc. tonne weight classes would be great too.

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Picked up a cheap TV second hand an low and behold is has a fault. There is a very faint but noticeable black horizontal line across the bottom of the TV, taking up about a quarter of the screen. Anything below this point is very slightly darker than the rest of the screen. Have checked capacitors on all boards and they are in good shape. Could be a possible fault on the inverter board? So far that's the only conclusion I've found after some research. Is there anything else it could be? The LCD screen seems to be fine, could be wrong though.
11 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
Either one of the lower CCFL tubes is out, or there's some damage to the flex cables that are bonded to the LCD panel. If you see smears when things move on that lower quarter of the panel, it's probably damaged flex. That was a problem with a lot of Samsung TVs from around 2008.
Forgot to specify, it's an lg TV manufacturered in 2010. I'm guessimg the only way to replace CCFL tubes is with a whole new LCD panel? Could it have something to do with this inverter board? The transformers look to be aligned where the screen is slightly darker than the rest of the screen.
If it's just dim and not distorted or anything it's not an electronic problem.

File: obrazek.jpg (82 KB, 417x288) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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I am looking for tips on making a relativly safe sparring swords. I need swords that can be used for full contact fights, but that won't break bones xD. I think that PCV tubes ar too flimsy for adults to use, is that so?
17 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.

Make sure you get mom's permission before you go out and play!
Just buy some nylon wasters; that's what they're made for. PVC either shatters if its too thin or doesn't flex enough if it's not.

>board named DIY
>just buy it
>best of /diy/

File: 20160822_120338.jpg (1 MB, 2048x1152) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Red pill me on manual drills
What is the correct way to hold it?
Were drill bits shaped differently in the times of manual drills? I ask because the drills bite in too hard when I try to use it. How do I stop it? Or do I just start from a small bit and work my way up through 5 bits to get to the correct size hole that I want?
41 replies and 10 images submitted. Click here to view.
The one in the photo is a breast drill. You hold it to your chest and lean your weight into it. Crank harder and use the proper drill bits made for it.
That is a breast drill. It can be held like a standard eggbeater drill or you can use the chest piece on the end and lean into it. Sometimes it's just there so you can apply a little pressure to hold the drill in place while you crank with one hand and hold the other handle with the other. Other times you need to put your full weight on it. That is generally for when you are drilling metal, not wood.

North Brothers made, in my opinion, the best breast drills you can buy. Their Yankee brand of tools were...
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what's the fucking point? just get a cordless you mong

What should I do with 22 milk crates? They aren't being useful right now.
38 replies and 9 images submitted. Click here to view.
Return them to the store so they can go back to the Dairy that owns them?
I find they're useful for transporting 20lbs propane cylinders. Keeps em from rolling around in the trailer or truck.
why'd you steal 22?

File: Sans titre.png (345 KB, 533x775) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
Sans titre.png
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Hello 4chan. I like this kind of hats. The attached files are pictures of the manga Shigurui. I don't want the conic one with horizontal braiding everybody usually sees, but this model, with flat top and a big knot above, holes for watching, and end of the straws ascending back.

I have no information on the material. I tried with young and slim bamboo and it was solid but I didn't managed to make a hat (first photo). The result is very bad, I just passed the vertical stems alternately front/back of the horizontal ones. The shape is not correct, but when I tried...
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11 replies and 6 images submitted. Click here to view.
File: Sans titre2.png (158 KB, 346x524) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
Sans titre2.png
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another picture of Shigurui
File: bamboos.png (2 MB, 606x1078) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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First test with bamboos (failure)
File: bulrushes.png (2 MB, 606x1078) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Second test with bulrushes (failure too)

File: E.T. jacking off.png (934 KB, 772x1080) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
E.T. jacking off.png
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So I sant to make an alien doll like pic related. I'm thinking about some kind of foam, but I dont know what kind. I want it to have flexible arms. Should I make it from two kinds, so the body and head can be hard and just carve the face on it, and use a softer one for the limbs?
Any ideas welcome.

sorry for shit English, me no spek london
8 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
Use the shit they make muppets out of.
Brown paper bag + crayons and done
/toy/ might be more helpful.

File: coffee table.jpg (1 MB, 1500x972) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
coffee table.jpg
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So I got a coffee table from my folks they had when I was a kid. What I'd like to do with it, if possible, is: (1) re-do the varnish, (2) not sand the scratches off (most of the scratches I caused as a kid so they have sentimental value) and (3) not have to restain it (not absolutely necessary, just prefer if I don't have to).

Doing a little googling, seems like a chemical stripper is the way to go rather than sanding so I can save the scratches. I have two questions though that I can't figure out: will all chemical strippers remove the stain in addition to the varnish, or are there kinds for just removing the varnish? Also, if I do have to restain it, will the scratches be super emphasized when I apply new stain? (google just has stuff about removing scratches/old stain altogether, also pic isn't of exact table)
8 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
Homer Formby Furniture Restorer.
Whats wrong with the old varnish and why do you want to take it off completely?
Just for the sake of making it into a project?

Also that table doesn't look like it has any sort of stain. Just clear varnish.
Sand out the scratches and call yourself a man. Keep them and remain a scared boy.

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