I work night shift which means I need to sleep during the day, problem is there's too much light in my bedroom, even with the curtains closed. The curtain rods are about 3" away from the window frame and I'm renting so I can't move them closer or install blackout blinds.
I'm not just going to put foil over the windows as I don't live in the ghetto, so I had a few ideas
1) sheets of white cardboard (cut to size) on the inside of the window glued to black cardboard to block light
2) rig up a frame to put a temporary curtain rod... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>927343 I bought floor length blackout curtains and put a towel in the air gap at the top. Then put dinder clips along the seam of the two panels. Then bunch the curtains up as best you can to the ends of the curtain rod to help keep the curtains pressed against the wall.
>>927350 Also forgot. Many older drywall corner flashings are ferric steel instead of the modern aluminium ones. Get a magnet and see if it sticks to the corner of the window frame. If it does you can get some small neodymium disks to keep the curtain in place
>>927323 we need to get some more information from you what do you want to remove what is it made of what is the shirt made of how did it happen why do you want it removed literally fucking any information at all
These things confuse me it can do 600V 30A which is quite a lot of power, but is it the same as MOSFET ratings where they can usually do higher current at lower voltages? Say 100V 100A? http://www.semicon.sanken-ele.co.jp/ctrl/en/product/detail/SCM1246MF/
I need to find the best way to create a H bridge driver circuit for a device requiring high safety. The MCU part is easy just use high grade automotive parts, but when it comes to the H bridge and components I can't work out how to make an automotive/aerospace grade solution that fits 100V 100A.
Hello /diy/, I have an idea for a sliding polycarbonate window I want to make. Its a 4'x2' window that needs to slide along a track which makes about a 90 degree bend. The bend is along the 4' wide part of the window. How thin does the polycarbonate have to be to be flexible enough for this, how tight can the radius be, and will it even work? If someone could point me to the appropriate spec sheet for polycarbonate that would be helpful, but I haven't been able to find anything relevant to what I need to know
>>927299 anything thin enough to bend even at a large radius wouldn't make much of a window. does it need to act like a window on the bend? what about a round track and sectional window? like a sectional garage door turned on its side?
>>927351 I'd rather not have sections of it. The application is a rear window on a soft top jeep wrangler, to replace the vinyl + zipper design with something more rigid that will slide up underneath the roof. It doesn't have to be thick, but it cant be just a film of plastic either.
Hey /diy/ need your guys help. Just came back from break to my college dorm, and apparently the landlord removed all the tenants unopened rooms doorknob on the inside. They caught one group with an unlocked room, my apartment was using the room for storage originally and got in by using a door hanger. Question is how to I get into the room now since our last way won't work anymore. (Pic provided is what the handle looks like as well as door frame around it)
Would it be feasible to do picture-in-picture in hardware? Digital video feeds, not super high-res, but needs to be updated preferably 120 times a second. Are there any single-chip solutions to this? I know text is pretty easy, but video sounds more than a bit trickier.
Hey /diy, first time poster here, but do lurk often. Hope you can help/advise on pic related.
I hae torn-down an old, defunct Epson Stylus SX230 for parts (motors, COG 1 1/4" LCD) for use in other projects.
I would like to use just the scanner as I will be satisfying my printing needs with a cheaper to run monochrome laserjet (not multi-function) hence desire to make useable the scanner. It was in full working order before teardown and has not been tinkered with at all. The flat ribbon cable is the only I/O and has 4 pins, BLANK, 15 pins arrangement.
How... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
So I wanna set up a workshop, but I dont have any space in my house. What kind of stuff (mainly woodworking, but anything really) can I make with only handheld tools? Things like Dremels, jig saws, skill saws, anything handheld like that.
Hello /diy/ I came across 19 omron relays. Some info 5a 240 vac 5a 28 vdc Coil : 110/120 vacation Are they worth anything if I was to sell them on ebay, and more importantly what are some things I could make with them?
>>927144 Unless you have a hundred each of them it's not worth the bother, you'll get a few bucks apiece for them, and by the time you pay Ebay their jew money you'll have nothing or have lost money. Just throw 'em in your junk drawer in case you need them.
i also have a few semiconductors, correct me if im wrong; they will allow power to flow through them if they hit the right temp? so i could say put it in a room with a heater and have something turn on or off depending on how hot i get the room? (my dumb downed comprehensions)
Hey /diy/, so I got rid of my 110 stick welder a while ago (century 70) and upgraded to a mig welder. Problem is it's that I can't practice very much becuase the price of flux core wire. So I devised this. Since the tip is always electrically hot, I decided to clamp it to the work piece and stick a rod in the ground clamp, thus making the polarity positive on the electrode side. It works pretty well with 3/16 6013. But I now have a bigger goal. I looked at a guide to make this particular welder dc, and ordered the part( black finned this with wires) to make it dc.... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I have a pair of very strong torsion springs that I could probably only get 1 turn out of, they are about 1" diameter. I also have a "rope" (for the sake of simplicity) that I need to move 3 feet with a little bit of spring assist. Is there any simple way to turn high torque low movement action into high movement low torque action when dealing with springs?
What I am thinking of doing is in essence a miniature garage door, but I think garage door torsion springs spool a lot more times than once, don't they?
>>927088 Put the spring on a rod that will be secured at both ends. Secure one end of the spring to something solid to keep it from rotating, and secure the other to a wheel that turns on the rod. Size the wheel such that it gives you the torque and movement that you want. Secure the rope to the wheel.
I've only seen industrial doors being worked on . But if you look at your garage door spring you'll see it has paint on it probably in a corkscrew fashion. Before its tensioned that paint is in a single straight line along the entire coil. They'd count their quarter turns and usually it be around 40 or more. So roughly 10 or more full rotations.
Just something I picked up driving the gdoor guy around on an order selector. But we're also talking like 30x30 doors.
>TFW one of the springs snaps when you're driving through... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>927094 also keep in mind that for these the privacy will exist only for the darker side of the glass. If it;s night and the inside is illuminated better than outside, it will be hard to see out from the room but easy to look into the room.
I dove into a project and got about 75% through it before realizing I have no idea what I'm doing. The simple version is I need to design a small pcb with the following I/O: - 3 logic level control signal inputs (whatever gauge, probably 22), - 12V source (maybe. I could connect it directly to the 12V output wire) (18awg, up to 6A) - ground (18awg, up to 6A) - 12V output (14awg, up to 6A) - 3 signal outputs (14awg, up to 2A each)
So what is the best way to connect each of these to the board? Something disconnectable would be ideal, soldering 14awg directly to a board just seems like a bad idea.
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