>>1040904 It is not a choice but a product of the preferred way of sharpening, if you sharpen by hand using stones or whatever, which is the method of producing the sharpest edge the quickest, the natural motions of the hand produces a naturally convex bevel as a by product, not really by choice.
>>1040813 Get about 5 decent sized mint leaves and break them into pieces. I usually split them into thirds. It's gotta be big enough that you won't swallow it when drinking, but small enough to extract a lot of mint.
It looks like there is rust coming through the door panel of my car (pic related).
Normally I would just sand, prime, paint, clear, wax/buff, but I'm worried if I tackle this one, I'll end up with a hole in my door, since rust shows on both sides. If I fill the hole with a fiberglass/epoxy patch, will it be strong enough? It's right above my driver-side door handle, i.e. one of he most frequently grabbed parts of the car, so I'm worried about making a durable fix for the rust spot.
so one of my pcb failed and a broken thermal fuse (inside transformer) was the cause of it. i wanted to bypass the fuse since i have no idea where to buy a similar fuse online. i had some solder lead, so i soldered the lead with the 'open' points. after i turned on the 120v power the lead fucking exploded! guys what did i do wrong? i mean i kinda already suspected that if i short the two connection point hazard would ensue. but then why doesn't the fuse blow up? if i switched the lead wire with a standard copper wire would it blow up still? or am i doing something... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1040742 Shorting the thermal fuse should leave the transformer as good as new, you probably fucked up and shorted live and neutral somehow, maybe it shorted through the body or maybe you shorted something that wasn't the thermal fuse, who knows. There shouldn't be any problem when shorting the fuse with lead solder, although the resistance is higher than copper is still negligible for such a short connetion.
>>1040742 >>1040745 Or the original fuse blew for a reason (because there is a short somewhere else) and OP created the equivalent of another fuse made out of solder, which promptly blew for the same reason the first one did.
Realistically, aside from OP fucking up, this is the only reason a solder jumper would fail like this. Replacing a fuse with solder is a fairly common ghetto-rig solution in PCB repair, and works fine as long as the fuse itself was faulty.
pic related can be found at wallmart and other crappy stores... keep your electronics charged... if you overload the circuit and pop the breaker you probably won't be able to get to whatever panel it's in to reset it...
>>1040735 you can rip the ground prong out of the laptop cord.. or use an adapter... and you need to look at like a true value.. or smaller hardware store out in the sticks... or a surplus junk store..
Hey guys, I was told on /k/ to take my question to you guys. I found my grand grandfather's WWI bayonet. This thing was uncovered after almost 80 years of being missing. As you can see, it's not in a great shape. Since this is one of only two things I have left from him, I'd love to restore it but I'm afraid of damaging it. Does anyone know how I could restore this thing?
>>1040563 I've been trying to figure out what the handle is made of with no luck. This thing is late 1890s, early 1900s so there's not many things the handle could be made of. I'm willing to give up on the scabbard since it's deformed on top of being rusty, however I'd like to save the handle. It doesn't seem like the rust went too deep on the handle. It's not flaking or anything. I'll follow your advice and see where that takes me. Thank you.
>>1040540 I've thought about this quite a bit before, to get the propulsion needed it would need large tubing, a really good heat source, and the flappy thing thats heated would need to be very efficient
The only thing that I see with this is that your heart source would have to be massive to heat the metal piece after all that cold water goes into it. It works on smaller toys because it needs to heat up such a small amount, but bigger... I don't know.
Want to make pic related. 0.02" head gasket. Appears aluminum. Would be produced as die stamp. What alloy should I use? Needs to be ductile both for stamping plus installation, where it needs to "squish" to seal head to piston. 2 stroke application.
Hi /diy/, I'm hoping you can tell me why OP is such a fag here. Tldr : I'm having trouble switching a thermoelectric cooler with a MOSFET and an arduino
Long story: I'm trying to switch this tec unit with an arduino, but I'm running into a couple of problems along the way. My idea was to read an analog value from a pot and use that to set the duty cycle of PWM on an output pin, and ultimately use the PWM signal to switch a MOSFET and apply power to the tec. So I setup some serial.print commands to view the analog input, the analog input divided by 4, and the state of the output. When the tec is replaced with an led then everything works great. The pot works, the divide by 4 works, and the output works. When I plug the tec in to the circuit then I start getting garbage data and the performance of the TEC is unpredictable. It's off for a few seconds, then it is on, then it is off, then it sticks on for too long and starts overheating, etc.
So then I figured the PWM output is wonky, so I manually configured a duty cycle using code. I changed the output to digital, then wrote a little code so that it would check the pot value and tec state every milisecond or so, and it would stay on for the first part of a second and off during the last part of a second. Again the code worked as expected, but the tec was unpredictable. It would switch correctly at first, but would end up sticking ON and beginning to overheat. (I should mention that I have heatsinks and multiple tec units to play with).
Anyway, after manually configuring the duty cycle and it still not working, I figure my problem is somewhere else, which is where I was hoping you can help.
*Is my MOSFET circuit configured correctly? *is 5V enough to reliably turn the mosfet on and off? (It's actually more like 4.7V coming out of the digital pin on the arduino nano) *is there something that I don't know about TEC units? (Are they inductive or something) *is there something else that I'm entirely overlooking?
>>1040514 Forgot to draw the potentiometer in the schematic above, but it's connected to the 5v (really 4.7 volt) pin on the nano, common ground, and the wiper is connected to one of the analog pins. Again, the pot seems to be working correctly according to the serial data output, but I wanted to clarify that it's there but not in the schematic.
I think this will help you figure it out. I don't know much about this subject but it seems like thermometric coolers don't like rapid on/off. LEDs don't give a crap and their resistance isn't changing so I think that's why your circuit works as expected with the LED but not with the cooler.
Also you should post this in /ohm/ general thread for more responses.
I am a person living in Finland and it's becoming increasingly dark every day. A time of super darkness is upon us and I hate it that I can't see my dog in this wintery wasteland.
I already have a reflector vest (left) but it's shit because it does nothing unless a light is being shined directly on it. I bought a LED strap you can attach to the collar but that is shit too because it's a small contraption and although it provides a light, it's small and dim. You can see where your dog is going sure but you can see nothing around it and it's infuriating.
How do I make a winter-durable LED vest (something like the right pic)? My dog likes to play in the snow so obviously it has to withstand wet and cold. Not too sure how to power it either, as I don't want my dog to become a walking lithium bomb.
I don't mind a nigga rig, so it doesn't have to be aesthetic. Just durable and have a shitload of white LEDs on it, preferably adjustable so if I miscalculate something and it becomes blindingly bright.
>>1040394 In that case i would just heatshrink it. Make sure the battery doesn't get wet and yoh should be fine. The worst this that can happen is the battery could get how and leak out the electrolight that is inside the battery.
soup /diy/? I recently purchased a piece of land, cleared the property and have well water and septic. I've been looking around on torrents and such, trying to find a list of very easy to build homes that are up to code with USA building standards.
Blueprints are designed by engineers, and include all the details for the permit office to approve and inspect the build in progress.
I'm a project manager for a roofing company, so I have access to all the materials, tools and labor I will need.
tl;dr where can I get free blueprints for simple 1500-2000... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I decided to make a book last week, took me like three evenings before I finally finished it (I got lazy by the end so the cover is kind of crap, too bad). It's actually not that hard if you have all the right right tools from the get go.
Is this thing even worth cleaning? I feel like its so far beyond that but I don't know what to do. I just moved into this shithole in southern Arizona and it's hot as fuck and I don't want to be without an AC unit. Should the landlord cover something like this? What do?
I wish to crack open my laptop battery and replace the worn out cells with NCR18650Bs because I doubt I can find a replacement battery with them in it. What techniques are involved with splitting open the battery in a reusable way?
This is what I would do, and then go outside and try to figure out what failed to let the water in. But if you are renting and shit, maybe you should get the landlord to come over and see it. Might get them to work on fixing the problem when they see it with their own eyes
I was thinking of building sheds or portable cabins. What's the best way to sell these things? I've already built one shed. Its pretty much all cedar and looks aesthetically pleasing but putting it on craigslist I haven't had much success in selling it. Is there another way to do this? I don't really have a roadside where I can place the sheds for traffic to pass by.
>>1038918 I can under cut them on price because I work for myself for pretty much less than minimum wage so I should be able to move the things somehow. I just don't know how to reach my target market. I don't think people usually brows craiglsit for sheds and its a pain in the ass having to repost it because the place where I build them doesn't have internet access. So Its kind of screwing me up. Should I build a web site instead of using craigslist or is craigslist better?
>>1038923 You're not listening, >>1038918 has already explained it to you, building and selling these things will not make money, you either need to do something the big box stores haven't thought of, don't want to do or can't.
Maybe you could make "bespoke" outbuildings of some sort, odd shapes and sizes not readily available off the shelf, build them in a way that lends itself to easily being turned into a residential unit, but whatever you... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I live in the US. I have an old table saw with a 1.5 HP motor. It is currently wired for 110 volts. It will draw about 17 amps according to the data plate. That is more than any of my 110 volt outlets will manage, as they all have 15 amp breakers and would need a wire replacement to go higher. I do have a 220 volt outlet that is free though. The breaker that controls it is a two switch 40 amp breaker. I'm assuming that is 20 amps per wire, correct? The 220 volt outlet is the 4 prong type for an electric dryer, pic related.
My question: Can I wire my saw to a 220 volt 4 prong plug but only use a single hot to get 110 volts at 20 amps?
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