I bought a Dust Deputy not too long ago to use with my tuckpoint grinder when I repointed my basement. It worked ok, but it seems like the fine particles were making it to the vacuum filter and I had to shake it out two or three times while repointing because I noticed less was being sucked up due to the clogged filter. Something similar happened when I used it to suck up drywall dust. I know these two substances aren't really what the Dust Deputy was meant to suck up, but it has worked pretty well otherwise. Is there a way that I could put a "water filter" between... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I almost never wear hearing or eye protection. I just hate them since they muddle my senses and make me feel less safe, even though I know better. I just can't be bothered.
The only exception is when I'm grinding metal or when the operation I'm performing is throwing dust or other material directly into the face. Then the safety glasses go on.
When ripping wood I don't use a push stick unless the cut requires my hand get within two or so inches of the blade. Never had an incident. I took those worthless safety pawls off the table saw, because they obstruct my view of the cut being made. I leave the riving knife on, because I know that actually is important for preventing kickback, and it is no inconvenience to leave it be.
I utilize the step above the one indicated to be the last safe step if need be.
What shop safety commandments do you break on a regular basis?
>>926348 I always wear safety glasses, used to it from my army days. I've got a nice pair of ICE crossbows that I don't even realize I'm wearing anymore. Came home from the shop the other night and forgot I was wearing them. The wife's staring at me across the dinner table like I have a dick on my forehead.
Ear defenders... Well, I wear over the ear headphones and jam out while I work, that counts I guess lol my bearings fucked from the military anyway.
Push sticks... I'm in that same boat with OP, pretty much don't use them until I need to push near the blade.
>>926277 I have one of those routers. What exactly can you do with it when pirate-box is installed? Can you use the thing to share a wired internet connection like you can with the original firmware? That's the only thing keeping me from putting it on mine is that I use mine for wired to wireless internet at hotels without messing with settings.
>>926277 Do you actually go to "leet hacker secret base" ype places where you'd use this thing? >>926286 I never understood the concept of a "pirate box" other than it's potential use for pedos to meet up at a starbucks and share their pornography.
>>926212 A few layers of heatshrink tubing should do it, as long as it's soft enough to conform to the string (preventing buzzing on the frets) you should be golden. I can't see you paying more than a dollar for it.
I have a boss ME-70 and I'm running it with batteries. Idk if I can make a power adapter or buy a generic one, one time I read somewhere that if I use a generic it can overheat and it's better use only the official boss power adaptor.
Hey, /diy/. Though I haven't plucked the engine out of the Windsor and onto a stand yet, I've been keeping myself busy while I wait on getting a hoist. I just managed to remove both the intake and exhaust manifolds, and exposed the covers to what I guess is the valve train. I was pleasantly surprised to find that it was totally free from rust, but upon closer inspection, I noticed that one of the valves is stuck open.
I'm not sure what to think of this. I gave the valve a couple light taps with a rubber mallet, but it didn't seem to move, so I guess... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
So I am thinking of following this guide for making latex balloons which seems easy and is detailed enough except for one fucking thing. What kind of fucking latex I need.
Seriously it just says liquid latex (a pre vulcanized mix) and I cant seem to find it on any online store, or anywhere really. Even asking the question in any search engine seems to not give a concise answer.
Is this a conspiracy? Or am I just retarded?
oh and this is the guide I am looking at if anyone wants to point out flaws/problems with it.
And that's how we like it faggot. If you weren't such a faggot you would understand that each proto method has its own specialty and purpose, and there is no one "right" way to prototype a circuit. It depends on the circuit type, voltages involved, all sorts of shit. Go be a faggot somewhere else.
The pin in circle 1 has been loose for a while and a rubber band around the plug is no longer doing the trick. I know how to solder and I have basic tools but the plate I'm guessing the connecting pin is actually supposed to be soldered to is loose.
If this is not easily fixable my idea is to simply put a ½cm wire between the pin and the capacitor (circle 2) but I'm not sure how to follow the lines. Is it just connected to the right one, both, or does it actually just run past to something else?
English isn't... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
It's the anon from the woodworking bread who likes pan-head screws, and I want to make an audio-hub with 4-pole trrs chassis sockets instead of 3-poles. Does anyone know if these are for sale online? Preferably somewhere in New Zealand.
So I'm building a table for /tg/ shit, and I want to put a projector inside to project whatever I need to show onto the table's surface. Then, of course, i'd put a layer of clear material over that to protect the projection surface.
The question is, what kind of material is best suited for this sort of projection? Is plexiglass or plastic better for protective covering? Would the projector take too much space?
That's actually a pretty dank idea. You would need to shell out quite a bit for a decent projector tho, and especially important will be finding one that will focus at such a short distance (ie floor to surface of table). Plexiglass might be a good protective surface, but you'll need something semi-opaque for the projection to show up on, like a white sheet of some kind. A (perhaps cheaper) alternative would be to put a big flatscreen into the table, but both have challanges
I'd probably use a 4:3 flatpanel bolted under plexiglass in a way that it won't be load-bearing as to protect the screen itself. Any projector that can focus in that short of a distance is gonna set you back quite a bit.
I actually work with projectors and surfaces on a daily basis, and I believe you could use anything white to project on as long as the room is dark enough. The covering for it would be best if it were very clean glass, but reflections are going to suck. You'd be better off just using a durable white surface that has a low-gloss finish. Maybe particle board of some type. If your ceiling is not at least 6 to 8 feet away then you may have trouble getting it to be a big enough image. But if it's closer then it will look better, so do some research on that matter and worry less about the table.
Hey guys, I was just curious, anyone else into watches? I recently found a few old ones desperate for a repair and polish. I have the repairs finished but have absolutely no idea how to polish watches or where to start, anyone able to help?
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