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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 60. page
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Hey /diy/.

Suppose one wanted to charge a 100W battery bank from wind, solar, and a dc generator. Now I could probably use diodes to keep from charging my solar panels or turbines.

But the MPPT controller I'm using for my panels can be linked with other MPPT controllers. I think this would be ideal for ensuring my batteries aren't overwhelmed with multiple power sources simultaneously and my sources are safe.

My question is, could I use an MPPT charge controller for things besides solar? Like for an alternator, turbine, or dc charger?
3 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
Yup. That's the beauty of MPPT chargers: they convert anything you throw at it to a proper charging voltage

You are making however some blank or incorrent statements, so you really need to study more about this topic or have a professional install your system, or else I'm forecasting you'll zap your panels, controller or yourself.

Plenty of video tutorials and explanations on the YewTubes
The only one I know of is the midnite classic 150 with a clipper which is EXPENSIVE. Most wind and hydro owners directly hook up a permanent magnet alternator direct to the batteries and use a voltage sensing controller to activate a relay. Look it up on missouri wind and solar. They have a few nice ones that you can program, which is needed since voltages can vary system by system and you need the set point slightly higher than your panels bulk charge so it wont interfere with the solar charge controller. Wind is a...
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JFET input op amps buffering instrumentation amplifiers and have fun filtering out all the noise.
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Love your humor! Keep it up

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Turn it back off then on again
there should be a cut off switch out in the yard under a metal cover...if u hav a wrench big enough to turn it
duct tape the faucet

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Hey there, /diy/nosaurs!

I am a fa/tg/uy, but I make stuff when I can. This is my most recent project. It's tokens for D&D. I used a one-inch hole punch, one-inch steel washers and some epoxy resin to dome the other side. They have nice weight to them and they seem durable.

My question is this:

>What would be the best way to make reusable maps for D&D so I can use my tokens?

Let's get a tabletop game thread going. What have you built? Terrain for 40k? D&D maps and minis?

Post tips, tricks, and tutorials here.
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What edition are you playing? This will determine my continued participation.
I made a 1" grid with simple graphics software (ms paint will not be enough for this), to a big enough size to suit my playing surface, took a PDF file of it to my local office supplies store that offered large format printing, and then had the printed sheet laminated straight after at the same place. Staples, OfficeMax and FedEx Kinko should all offer these services. Chessex has several sizes of reusable gaming mats with both square and hexagonal grids, too, and in all honesty, would cost less than making your own.

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sup /diy/ rate my new levels
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Looks overpriced. In fact, you probably paid for that fancy green 'made in Germany' text more then the product itself. Hell, a monkey could push a liquid filled glass into a plastic or fiberglass shell when a machine says its level.

Anyways, stop looking for attention online you fag. This board is for posting diy projects and things done yourself. And not, shopping is not diy.
OP, take no notice of this jealous prick.

I've got quite a few stabila levels and I think they're brilliant. Never really had one I wouldn't rely on.
Have you ever dropped any of them and had nothing happen to the accuracy?

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Recently watched Ex Machina, and it got me thinking. (fuck zuckerberg)

Thought about what it would take to control things in my home with only my voice. IE: "Lights". "Turn on the TV" "Lock the doors" "It's cold in here, turn up the heat"

What would be a good starting point?
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What is "voice recognition software" Alex....
What is "simple minded idiot" for $200 Alex...

It's a little more complicated than that, you fuckwit
I've used X10 technology to do stuff like that. you need a USB-X10 interface box, and X10 receivers in your lights, or the light switches, or sockets. however, it's a dying technology which is being replaced by something whose name i forget. see www.smarthome.com for examples.

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When i was a child my parents had a rocking chair which was completely made of bent stakes (willow i guess). it was comfy as fuck.

does anybody have experience making them? should i just start bending some stakes and knotting them together with wire or is there some secret magic i should consider before experimenting?

it looked kinda like the one in the pic but the rocking feet or how they are called were also bent stakes.
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Steam softens the staves to a point of usability. Once they're soft you bend them into shape and let them cool & dry so they hold. Then you can use fine nails and banding to hold the furniture together.
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there was a chair thread soem days ago but it's already archived so I'll ask here.

i am in the progress of replacing the gas cylinder/spring on my comfy office chair.

does anyone know what exactly the difference in shape is for in these things?
picture related, I am talking about the thinner lower part. in some parts the lower thin part is longer, in soem it's not there at all.

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I just bought 2 of these 600CFM inline fans to move air from the top of my paint booth in my garage, through two home furnace filters to stop any particles than outside. My old ones were starting to get old and clogged up, I guess I got the wrong CFM as last time and my new ones are blowing too fast. I unfortunately cannot return them

Is there a way to run them at a slower speed? They are 110V
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One of my fana
Think lamp dimmer but for electric motors.

Also, why not just stick some filters before the fans so they don't clog up.
These types of fan are normally speed controllable. There are different types of controller.

The ones I've seen fitted before now are normally similar to a dimmer switch or there are some that have 5 steps slow to fast.

Stand alone speed controllers however can often cost as much or more than the fan itself.

A cheaper alternative might be to install a blast gate or single blade damper to restrict the airflow.

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I'm installing some L-track in the back of my jeep, and I have to drop some screws through the tub and weld nuts to the underside. The problem is the holes are lining up at the worst possible location, right into the bent section of a support piece for the tub. I already notched one out with a dremel as you can see but its kind of shitty and tedious.

I need to do 7 more of these, can you think of a better way than notching with a dremel?
I thought about removing the whole piece but there are at least 20 somewhat large spot welds that I would have to fill in which...
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Would rivnuts/nutserts be strong enough for this? These tracks are supposed to hold in a seat. 2 tracks per seat, 7 fasteners per 3 foot track. I would think 14 nutserts into 1 layer of 18ga sheet metal and 1 layer of slightly thicker metal would be sufficiently strong to hold a passenger in place, right?
So what you're saying is:
>drill more holes
>use more rivet nuts
>must be stronger because more holes
I'm not drilling any more holes, I'm only replacing the nuts I had planned on welding to the underside with rivnuts.

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So guys I have a project in mind but it involves some steel cutting. Problem: I don't have any power tools (torch cutter, plasma cutter, angle grinder, etc.). Is there a simple way to cut steel without these instruments?
>Pic not related those aren't the plates
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short answer:no

long answer: yes, with very very heavy manual labour for a couple years.

rent tools or don't ask dumb questions.
Yes, you can cut steel with a Hacksaw.

It will take a very, very long time, a lot of sweat and a bunch of Hacksaw blades if you have any significant amount of steel to cut through.

Rent/buy a cheap angle grinder FFS. The only way a Hacksaw comes out cheaper is if your time is 100% worthless.
If it's more than 2mm thick don't even bother trying.

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Drive 30 minutes round trip and pay £18 for metal £1.04 fuel cost

or to save £5.50 on price

Drive 2 hours round trip and pay £12.47 for parts £2.80 fuel cost

It's exactly the same part, the closer company buy it from the larger company further away.

£3.74 more but save one and a half hours of my life on the boring fucking motorway.

Also I'm making a welding bench, any advice?
1100mm high (i'm 6'4" with a bad back)
1600mm long
1000mm depth
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Is your time worth £2.50/hour?
Is it worth £3.74 not to drive for 2 hours?
Yes it is.
I don't know where you got the £2.50 from but yes, i've sooner do nothing and pay £2.50 than drive for an hour, even though i'm a taxi driver.
Not to mention wear on the vehicle. This is a penny wise, pound foolish way of thinking. If you really want to save money move to an apartment that's $100 cheaper a month, save $1,200 annual. Quit worrying about $5 is retarded.

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Hello /diy/ i'm planning to make a few custom power banks. I want them to be as small as possible. Can someone guide me where to find most reliable circuit boards? I don't mind the price, but the only place to buy them from looks like Aliexpress or other Chinese stores. Not that i think that they sell crap but its hard to trust reviews posted there. I'm planning to use single protected 18650 battery for each one. Maybe someone knows reliable manufacturers or ect?
Thanks in advance.
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Tell me why

Buying an 18650 based powerbank will be cheaper, safer and more reliable than anything you could bodge together yourself.
It will also be smaller than anything you can throw together.
Nobody will suck ya dick because you went through the trouble of making your own.
(Not that you could do that anyway, since you're here asking dumb questions)

1/10 made me reply.

>tl;dr: don't make shit that's cheaper to buy
>someone wants to make his own power bank
>hurrdurr you can just buy it cheaper
that literally applies to almost anything on this board.
Just get out or stop giving shitty useless 'advice'.
all I'm saying is spend your time and energy on something that's actually worthwhile /DIY/ing...

That way you could actually make something cool or interesting.

Anyway cockfag, adafruit has the highest quality USB boosters and Li-ion chargers for DIYing

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How do I make a barrel?
I want one to put liquor in but they are expensive as hell
Could I make a white trash barrel by taking a log, hollowing it out then capping it off?
Some sort of ratchet strap or clamp could put pressure on the caps from the outside to prevent leaks.
48 replies and 6 images submitted. Click here to view.
If you have to ask, you're going to spend more on wood, parts, and tools than the cost of a barrel.
Here's a 5 gallon barrel for $150

your jerry-rig barrel would probably split because of wood movement, if you store dry stuff in it it would probably work

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Sup /diy/,
Lets talk pottery.
Made a pottery wheel. made a kick wheel design. used a cars spare tire for the wheel, made a hub out of plywood, used flange bearing to hold the shaft, plywood for the wheel head.

share your pottery tips ITT
14 replies and 4 images submitted. Click here to view.
Now take off the wheel and cast a 5"thick piece of concrete about 44" in diameter.

You need the inertia if you're going to make it work
Id get into pottery if i lived somewhere I could sauce clay for cheap. But paying 45 dollars for like 20lbs of clay when all they did was scoop it out with truck and send it off to have a machine remove the plant matter and upcharge it in price is bull.

TLDR not gonna pay money for dirt.
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have you tried digging for clay?
i get my clay out of the ground, it's mostly clean, has fine sand in it. got clay out of garden soil once, can't say how good it was, as i didn't make pottery back then
if it slows down to quick, i'll fill it with sand or water

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I want to connect some fluorescent bulbs and I need a help from an electrician.

I want to make an indoor greenhouse for growing seedlings. I have a building with big windows but they are blurred and not enough sunlight can enter inside. I want to build a fluorescent bulb based grow lights.
I need those bulbs need ballasts and starters but I can't find any info on connecting a lot of bulbs.

Picture related is what I want to do, but on much larger scale, I want to have 50-60 of 1.5m (4,9feet) bulbs working at once. I don't want to buy assemblies because...
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picture of another similar setup
Easiest way? Get blue and red 12v led strips.
I'm not aware of a system that allows multiple bulbs to be run on the same ballast. Basically the bonus circuitry in the ballast and starter just start and keep the arc going. So you kinda need one thing per arc you want to maintain. So I guess you'll just be buying 50x 50$ assemblies if you're set on fluorescents. How much of this have you done before? Start small first. Don't want to blow a few thousand dollars on a setup you'll get bored of...
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Perhaps you have not properly considered your lighting options.

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