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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 64. page
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Hey /diy/ what has been your most ambitious project?
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I'm building a house with all the governmental sodomization in Funland.
Building my own bluetooth adapter to my cars OEM head unit that doesn't have a external audio input, also tapped into the CAN interface to read the steeringwheel stereo controls so I could skip tracks without needing to mess with phone. Got it working pretty well but then I found a cheap chinese adapter that did exactly the same for less than I'd allready spent on the project so got that instead because it was so much smaller. Still learnt alot and messing with CAN was fun.
Right now I'm designing a RC model Airship that uses hot air as it's lifting gas.

Previously, I was creating a transistor sound card with similar capabilities to a SID chip.

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How could I make the chair fit better under this desk?

I'll post some extra pics for reference, but the bottom star shape of the chair does not usually fit under the desk, and it requires finagling every time.
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Posting a pic with my phone camera, we already took a drawer out to better fit the chair in height
Lift up the desk with some wooden blocks or something. 3 inches or so should be good.
That's just what I was thinking

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Hey y'all. I've been giving advice on this board for a while so I'm hoping I'm due for some good advice from someone here.

I'm putting in a gravity fed water system in my mobile office. I have a cupboard above the sink and there's room for a 5 gallon tank or water bladder up there. Just having a hard time figuring out the best style to go with.

A camp shower? Bought one and it had a leak... most of these are just crap. Thin skinned. Threads on the bladder are impossible to join with a better hose and nozzle.

Maybe a water tank?...
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Sorry here's a better photo. This is the sink I have in there. The sink drains into a 5 gallon bucket in the cupboard below.
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Use a fuel bladder. Lightweight but really strong, they use them in drones
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That looks so fucking comfy

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Someone can do a fast schematic diagram on paint of each one
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is it really that hard to follow the lines?
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Agreed OP - a child could do it.
We're not doing your homework for you, fuck off Manuel

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Thinking of taking the cheaper route and getting some Pittsburgh (harbor Freight) impact sockets.

For $75(ish) i can get their 37 pc SAE and metric and 2x 12 Pc 1/2 drive deep well impact sockets (1 set in SAE and one set in metric)

Could get 12 point or 6 point on the deep set. leaning toward 6 because why not.

They come with a lifetime warranty so if they break i can get new ones for free.

Most of the other sets i was looking at were 10 pce sets for $50 or more.

I know HF has a stigma about it which is whats holding me back. Anyone here ever...
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if your gonna use them every day for heavy duty work then perhaps consider better ones..

if your gonna use em every once in a while for fuckaround stuff then they'll likely be fine, if you find that you use one specific one enough to break it (or more likely if your 10mm socket developes legs and wanders off) then you can buy individual replacement sockets to make up for the broke/lost ones...

also make sure you use the hazard freight coupon...
I buy and use lots of HF tools.
About the only thing I don't recommend is their cheapest corded electrical tools.
(drills, saws, etc)

Not a mechanic or anything so im not going to put them to hard work on a daily basis. But they will not sit in their case on my garage and collect dust either.

In addition to the stuff i do on my own I do some side job here and there and not having impact rated sockets sucks balls.

I very likely will not use several of them but I know for a fact that if I do not get the full sets I will need the one I do not have.

The reviews seam very impressive for harbor freight.

Though getting the...
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I just got a new modem from Comcast strictly for Wi-Fi and the house I'm currently staying in runs on DirectTV but has virtually no internet. The only available coax cables outlet plugged into a DirectTV box. Is it possible to use a splitter and connect the box and modem to it so it can share the outlet???
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the cable box should also have a coax ouf
But the box is connected to the outlet. I'm wondering if I can just reconnect it to a coax splitter and connect the modem next to it so the splitter itself can be plugged into the outlet (thus sharing the outlet)
How the hell do you have DirectTV for TV and Comcast for internet? Presumably the cable goes up to the dish.

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Jan 25 2015 I finished my motorcycle gastank-spray paint tier paintjob.

560 days since I last posted about it. [1 year, 6 months, 13 days]

SO HERE'S MY UPDATE. An Final review because of complications.

After Perfect and extensive prep work. I used bondo in a small dent, and then laid down rustoleum automotive primer. then the green from pic-related. and finally the hellman's spar urethane gloss, for the clear coat, following all the instructions to a T. cure/recoat times at their maximum lengths.

Well Today I noticed a brown spot on my...
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For what ever reason the primer did not stick well to itself after the first 2 medium wet coats where sanded, my 3rd coat to smooth everything out just DID not stick to the coats below it. and the color coat? its not waterproof at all, it allows moisture to go in and out and through it. and apparently the powdery primer does too. Now I had already talked about how the clearcoat went really matte? well around may-june time I was reading on some boat forums about different finishes. and someone asked about hellman's spar, and people weren't happy with it saying it didn't...
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And heres the rust freckles that will show up on camera.
Looks like shit, I hope you get hit by a truck next time your splitting lanes.

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Hey look at that /diy/

I did something myself. I built an 8 amp lead acid battery charger Using parts from a 1960's battery charger (the transformer and circuit breaker). I vary the charging voltage with a variac since the full output of the old transformer with a modern bridge rectifier is over 17 volts DC. The old Selenium rectifiers only put out about 14vdc.

It took me about 4 hours.
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Alright, alright. Let the shit posting begin, but I for one say good work OP. May not be the most complex thing in the world, but it feels good to actually build something that works. And matching the original parameters, more or less.
I did not want complex, I needed a charger that will WORK and not a "smart" charger that won't even try to charge a battery if it is too low.
Agreed, especially for lead acid. Plus you used heatsinks and put shrink tubing on everything. We love seeing projects that actually worked out on /diy/, but it will probably only be a couple of minutes before we see some summer fag in here talking about how you should have used an arduino as a charge controller or a 14 volt regulator or something. Again, nice work OP.

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I have a brick patio that's been set up for for nearly a decade. It's not exactly level anymore because the soil here goes through great variations in wetness. The picture is similar to what my patio looks like (only warped +/- 1" in some areas)

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to level a 300g stock tank on this patio? I want to set up a small water garden for myself but from my experience before, if the tank is not level it will crack and leak. Here are some ideas I've had before:

1. Make a box with many drainage pipes and fill it with...
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just put it in a container
>1. Make a box with many drainage pipes and fill it with paver sand and level the stock tank on that.
I like this idea. I'd probably modify it a bit: make a box with 2x8 boards, with an interior diameter two inches larger than your tank. Maybe reinforce with 2x4s to help prevent spread from pressure. Fill with sand, level, place tank. Seems the easiest to do labor-wise, hardest to kill tank because the sand will compress to relieve stresses. Just my 2ยข.
I'll probably draw up plans for it some time soon. I will need to figure out a way to control the bottom of the box from sagging into an uneven location of sand. Or I can use some left over pond liner I have lying around to make a flexible bottom for the box so that the sand will be contained but still will be in contact with the ground.

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Hey /diy/
My grandma tried to fire up a necchi supernova sewing machine from the late 50's to see if at least worked.
Thing is, it did lit up some auxiliary light, but when the switch was pressed, all it did was noise, just like the electric motor was jammed or didn't had enough power to start up

My suspicion is that the engine (which is as old as the sewing machine itself) is too fucked up, and you also have to consider that it has been used very few times on 220 VCA, and the engine was made for 115 VCA.

So are my suspicions right? Should i...
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Its not the motor. Its the foot pedal...
>using double the designed voltage
why do people do this kind of shit?
Don't use 110 volt stuff on 220 systems dumbshit. Jesus.

Its a motor.

So I got this string trimmer that's working a bit wonky. It's an Echo GT-225. The first problem is that it a pain in the ass to start. If I play with the choke and throttle screw I can get it to start up and idle after a few hundred pulls but once I let up on the choke and let air in it dies on me. The air filter is fine, so I'm left to believe it's the carburetor, but I honestly have no fucking clue about 2-stroke engines (I do board soldering and shit for a living). The other problem is that when it actually starts, the drive shaft turns the head slowly....
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There is a centrifugal clutch that spins the head once the it reaches a certain rpm. Your clutch springs are getting loose or more likely you're idling too fast.

Carburetors have two adjustable fuel jets usually via two screws. High speed and low speed jet, they control fuel mixture at high rpm and idle. Sounds like your high speed jet needs to be adjusted. Also there will be a screw to set the minimum throttle position that controls the idle speed.

These shitty little engines cause so many problems because they have tiny garbage carburetors that are supposed to work in all positions so they don't have what you could call an actual fuel bowl. Very sensitive to the fuel mixture and are usually fucked after a year or two. You can get them working with effort, but it won't be reliable, you'll have to adjust the carb every single time you use etc. Throw it out and get an electric one. I was using some hobby lipo packs to power a shitty nicad based jobmate trimmer until my dad threw it out because he thought it was broken.
Just turn the left fuel jet adjustor a quarter turn to the left.

Yeah, this.

I have a couple 4 cycles and it's all the same story. Fine for 6 months to a year then goddamn dead backbreaking pigshit to crank and it's constant repairs, maintenance etc.

Get an electric with four times the torque and a 3hr battery life.

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Hello, /diy/

So, my girlfriend and I like to drive her truck to places to hang out and even sleep. We recently decided that we want to class it up a bit and make it a more livable environment. Right now, the issue I'm trying to tackle is having some nice soft lighting that will illuminate the whole "room". I want this lighting to be stationary, so I don't want to have to use a flash light or lamp that we have to hold.

We both like napping in here, so we want the light to be fairly soft and/or dim, but bright enough that we don't have to...
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So here are the notes I have so far:
1 - I feel like this would be the best place to place lighting, but I'm not sure how to mount it to the interior of the shell without damaging it. I could probably use Velcro strips for a light enough strand.

2 - I think this would probably be my least favorite of the 3 spots to place lights -- Unless the lights are really bright, they probably wouldn't be able to illuminate the areas below the ridge they sit on. One advantage is that installation wouldn't be as challenging as spot 1.

3 - I feel like this would...
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I just use a luci light. Not elegant but it works. They have a frosted version for subdued illumination.
That's not at all what I'm looking for. I want something that I'll never have to hold, AND that will provide a big, soft light. From what I saw in the initial Google search, a Luci light wouldn't accomplish either of those things. Not to mention, it looks like it would be difficult to use without shining it directly into our faces.

And when I say "big soft light", what I mean is that it won't cast very dark shadows. I want lighting that will actually illuminate the whole space...
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Any helpful links or videos on building your own laptop? Also tips ?
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Protip: don't build your own laptop
Step 1: Buy a laptop.
Step 2: There is no step 2, short of using the laptop.

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I have a sizable bottle cap collection. Primarily beer bottle caps. Pic related, similar to my collection.

What should I do with them?

I started collecting them with the intent to make a sculpture out of them, or incorporate them in a painting. But I still don't have a direction in which I want to go with them. I'd appreciate some input.
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cast them into epoxy and make a table top
Home Depot sells magnets that fit in them perfectly. I put mine on the fridge.
2nd for this. Buddy of mine did this for a table he has in his basement, was pretty cool for mancave-tier decor.

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Besides being human trash are there any cons to only flush the toilet when going to bed? Unless if a turd interrupts, of course.
Looking to save those mad water bills.
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It means you'll have to clean the toilet more often. The waste will have more time to stain the bowl so it will get dirty faster. It will also start to smell awful faster. It can also attract flies and stuff. But, yeah, other than that its fine.

Just remember, many places have a connection fee (for maintaining the infrastructure, generally based on the size of your pipe) and a water use fee (the water you actually use). In my place I pay like $20 for the connection and about $2 for the water. So you might...
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Can always use the hippie excuse about saving the earth but thanks for the viewpoint.
"If it's brown flush it down, if it's yellow let it mellow."
This is what people with nasty toilets say.

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So I'm refinishing some old furniture and everywhere I read says to do your first layer of stain, lightly hand sand with finer than 220 and then apply another layer of stain. Then do the same and apply the varnish.

Only when I'm sanding between coats it seems to give the wood a washed out look. Like it makes the stain look all milky. Now i assume when I apply the next stain this will all go away. However what do I do about this on the final layer before applying the varnish. If I lightly sand after my final stain it it gets all washed out and milky I won't...
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Thats dust, use a compressor to blow the piece clean or wipe it off real real good
I don't have acess to a compressor, I tried wiping it clean with a wet cloth a few times but that didn't seem to work. Is there some trick I'm missing? I'm trying to do some reading right now and I see something about tack cloth but I don;t know what difference that makes.
don't sand after staining

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Guys how do I desolder this stupid USB port? I have this iron: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/32596327081.html?productId=32596327081&productSubject=60W-220V-Temperature-Adjustable-Electric-Welding-Solder-Soldering-Iron-Handle-Heat-Pencil-Tool&spm=2114.01010208.3.20.EKLnKF&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_10%2Csearchweb201602_1_10057_10056_10037_10055_10049_10059_10033_10058_10032_10017_106_105_104_10060_103_10061_102_10062_10063_412%2Csearchweb201603_1&btsid=2a2278c3-536e-4ad5-aa74-e0e494c85a3c
Is it not powerful enough for these factory solder points? My big 100w soldering gun is broken but even if I tried to repair it I doubt it would be gentle enough.
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Stupid fucking phone
It's a 60W solder iron
You desolder this stupid port by using the stupid solder wicks on the stupid solder joints to get rid of the stupid solder, your stupid 60w iron is more than stupid enough to stupid do the stupid job

Hi /diy/.

My brother has a daughter, and her 5th birthday is coming next week.
I thought that instead of buying her a gift, it might be a better idea to invite her to my apartment for a few days to undertake some /diy/ projects.
I don't want to do boring shit, like 'toilet roll holder hats' and stuff. I want her to actually help me with a multi-day project in my apartment that we can both enjoy that will benefit me long term. I have some ideas but I am unsure how suitable they are and would appreciate advise.

1. My first idea is for my niece to help me with the building of a spice rack. This is a simple and basic project but I think it could be very helpful for my niece long term. The way I will make it 'fun' for her is to buy some candy and snacks on which she can sprinkle some of my spices. For example, when she is successful in sanding down some wood, I will present her with a chocolate bar covered in Paprika and Garlic Powder. If she manages to use an electric drill without supervision I will give her salted M&M's. The only issue here is that it wouldn't be a multi-day project

2. The second idea is for my niece to help me build a larger bedframe. My current bed is very unsturdy and creaks when I am trying to sleep. I would therefore have my niece help with the planning and building of a new frame. This could be really fun- I could give my niece a sexual education course to explain why adults need strong beds which would help her develop maturity faster. I could also reward her by buying some fun kids blankets and letting her sleep on the bed once it has been built. The main issue here is that I would get annoyed if the project wasn't going quickly and the lack of a bed would prevent me sleeping it off, so I might lash out at her psychically
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3. My final idea is for my niece to help me build a new cupboard for my clothes. This would be fun. I could help her because it would show her how a cupboard is build and therefore show that there are no monsters inside (which would help my brother as she has nightmares). I could also buy some childrens clothes/underpants and offer to keep them in my cupboard for her so she has something to wear when she visits next time, but tell her if she doesn't finish the project she will have to visit me naked (as a joke of course, but she won't know).

Do you think...
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what is wrong with you
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>invite her to my apartment for a few days
deeeeed giveaway

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Is there an easy way to get this shit up
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Manual hand held alternatives are available.

rent what he uses near the end

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Hello /diy/!
Just got myself a new keyboard, but it has this ugly logo on the front, that's printed on the plastic.
How do I remove it?
Already tried with denatured alcohol with no results and also scratched it with some sugar, which faded it a little. How can I remove the logo completely without ruining or altering the plastic?

>Pic related: that printing
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My first thought would have been a weak solvent solution but there's a strong chance it will damage the plastic finish.

There's not really a clean way of doing it without running as risk of damage. It's going to be an abrasive removal. They're generally not indented to be removable.
Maybe a strong duct tape would lift some paint from plastic, personally I use this method to remove glue leftovers from tape.
You might also buy some vinyl, remove caps, cut to size and apply. You don't risk damaging the surface
OP could you provide a link for the keyboard?

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I figure you're the best candidate for painting experiences.
>paint car
>oil based rustoleum high gloss with half odorless mineral spirits mix
>forgot respirator
>weightlifted in same area
>no ventilation
>6 hours
>14 hours after exposure
>gutteral cough, cant speak, hard to respond...
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Also, when I do talk, it's all very hard still, but my voice is very rough and short and people keep asking if I'm russian
>Anyone dealt with this?
I doubt it, most /diy/ posters aren't literally braindead.
>gassing yourself

Nice job fan

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Hello /g/ here:

How do i safely power small DIY projects (stepper motors 28byj-48) from my phone charger or any other USB outlet?

I dont want to burn down my apartment or fry my PC mobo. I can't find any USB to 2.54mm adapter so /diy/ what should i do?
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Head on over to the /ohm/ thread
They are called "micro-usb to DIP adapter" on aliexpress
>How do i safely power small DIY projects (stepper motors 28byj-48) from my phone charger or any other USB outlet?
You don't, because 5v isn't really enough anyway. To get the full 5v off the arduino output pins, you have to run it off at least 7 volts. And the USB port only puts out 5v....
>I dont want to burn down my apartment or fry my PC mobo. I can't find any USB to 2.54mm adapter so /diy/ what should i do?
Go buy a 12-v DC 5-amp...
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/cannibal/ thread

What can I rip apart to get my hands on some high power repulsive magnets?

Also, what do I need to get that would give me powerful laser?
12 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
1. Open anything with magnets and put them same poles facing towards eachother.
2. Bluray player. Enjoy seeing spots.
Look kid, in this day and age, it's best to buy laser diodes directly.

Lasers are fucking cheap now. There's no shortages of diodes anymore and the glut of 'free diodes' from the HD-DVD format failing is over.

Jesus fuck, I mean you can get 405 nm lasers with watt level outputs for reasonable prices.

Just buy magnets, $5 will get you plenty of magnets. Fuck, you can even get those banned buckyball magnets so long as you don't buy them as toys. Although if you have never...
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I charge 50% more for the repulsive magnets

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anybody know if this will print in a 3d printer? never used one before but I don't know if it will be able to make holes like this.

the sides are 3 mm thick

should i divide them up into pieces and print them all flat?

also, show me cool shit you've printed /diy/
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Looks like it'll print fine. You might need supports for the rectangular hole in the front, but the circular holes should be fine.
With proper support, it should print just fine
I would fill in the big rectangle but thinner than the wall and little openings to assist it cutting it out. If you don't that opening may have a very hard time printing and could throw off the rest of the print.

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Okay, so I have a dining room with black cutback adhesive on old unfinished 2 inch tongue and groove oak flooring. I have been removing most of the cutback through the miserable methodology of applying heat and moisture then scraping and scrubbing it away. Most of it is coming up, but I kind of like the look of the remnants that the first pass isn't taking up. So, I have come to ask if any of you have ever applied stain and then finish to wood floors with some cutback on them. Will it work? Will the stain cover it adequately?

TLDR: Can I stain and finish wood floors...
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So, no?
Stain won't stick to jack diddly. It doesn't stick to surfaces- it's absorbed. You can stain over the adhesive all you want, but you'll have to go back and wipe it off after it's dry or it will come unfixed when you do the topcoat which is bad.

Okay, but the topcoat will still cover it? That was my area of concern. I know the stain won't be absorbed into glue. I was more worried the topcoat wouldn't set properly over it.

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I built some chairs.
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More kickass chairs.
Does your daddy know you cut up his wood and floor mat?
No. Not yet. He might spank me when he finds out. I'm a lucky boy.

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Would it be possible to turn a kiln into an industrial grade autoclave? I want to purchase One so I can make my own carbon fiber parts that are actually strengthened. I was thinking that a 3D printer in one would simplify fabrication.

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File: 1461259779338.jpg (135 KB, 600x600) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Is your autism flaring?

You should get a clear understanding of what an autoclave is and how it operates, if you don't believe me. It's a simple, No.

File: couch.png (459 KB, 630x420) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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IFO invasion! Can we talk for a minute about indoor furniture outside?Not plopping lazyboys on porches.What I need advice on is how to finish wood that was originally intended for in home use so it can withstand a season or two being outdoors.I curb alerted a cool corner table/beverage rack that Id like to incorporate into an outdoor bar but I need to prep the wood for weather.
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Disassemble as much as possible. Strip back to bare wood, three to five coats of West Epoxy, then two or three coats of a good UV blocking marine polyester varnish. Do it well and you'll get 5+ years easily; half arse it because it's too much like work and you'll have blown $100+ in materials. Look at the West Epoxy site for way more detail.

If all you want is a year or two, just a few coats of outdoor varnish will get you there.

Most likely fail points will be joints (as wood swells/shrinks with moisture content, and water will wick into the joins)...
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A well applied marine varnish (aka spar varnish) finish should last two or three seasons. More if it's in the shade. Much longer then that and it'll need maintenance. In fact, expect to do maintenance on anything outdoors, the question is just how often.

Make sure that all the joints are protected. Every crack, corner, screw and nail hole is a water infiltration point. If water gets in the wood, it will cause swelling, which will pull joints apart and give you that loose rickety feel.

File: 1-300x152.png (21 KB, 300x152) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Hello everyone!

I would like to get some information about programming.
My goal is to create a simple taxi program with blank screen and letters.
The thing is that I need a real-time data transferring.
The dispatch recieves a call and types an adress to a computer. The driver recieves adress to an android smartphone. Both gadgets have an internet connection but are not connected to the same network.
Is it possible to code a program like that or do I need a server?
Thank you in advance for any information!
10 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
dont even need to write a program. you just need a web site (like text2day.com) or app (like mySMS) to send text messages to a phone.
Oh well we truly need a program for that.
First off, drivers need to see all addresses in the same place and then choose the ones to drive to.
The next thing is if they decide to take the order there must be a button to take that address off thd list.
So, does this idea require a server or just some code to take care of this?
I cannot find any information on google at all. Some leads to know more would be very much appreciated.
Well there are dedicated taxi despatch systems you can purchase, and presuming you're running a business why don't you just look into that? Or is this a bit of a pipe dream that isn't really going anywhere?

File: Wikihouse Maker Faire.jpg (181 KB, 768x768) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
Wikihouse Maker Faire.jpg
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Anyone have experience with the Wikihouse project? Basically every part is CNC'd from sheets of Plywood or OSB and the frame can go up in a day. Everything is held together with pegs but it looks like it can be modified to use bolts and T-nuts.

I'm thinking of buying a small plot of land in the middle of nowhere, putting this up and adding a generator and RV plumbing. Pic related, any thoughts?
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Anyone worth an opinion could frame that in 2x in a day anyway, and it would be better for it.
If we were running out of metal, I'd say go for it. But, plywood/OSB is fucking expensive shit while rough framing lumber is pretty damn cheap.

>dat wooden foundation
>dat 2 inches from the curb
>built for a maker fair on a temp lot

For a moment there I was like, "WTF?"
>Wikihouse potential

It has none. Just like wiki speed is a fucking joke. All this time and money spent on cutting shit to make it like a puzzle. When you could have an charge powered nail gun and a pile of 2x4s and 2x8s and like a pile of cinder bricks. And have everything framed in like a day with 4 experienced workers doing it.

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