Hey, I'm a bit of a stranger to these parts and to DIY in general but I was wondering if anyone could maybe give me some advice. The arms of my chair are starting to come apart after a few years of use*, it's that soft rubbery-plastic stuff and both arms are developing rather large cracks in multiple places. It's mostly along the sides and bottoms so they're still reasonably comfy but in a few more months I wouldn't be surprised if one of them fell off entirely which would be less than ideal.
Since the rest of the chair is in fantastic shape... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I had this exact same problem with my chair (which looks almost identical to the one in the picture). I looked up the manufacturers phone number and gave them a call to find out if i could order new ones. Instead they said the chair was still under warranty and sent me new ones for free. I had no proof of purchase, just gave a guesstimate date of purchase. Hope this helps!
So I annihilated a screw while replacing a light fitting. How the hell do I remove this thing?
I've searched Google and have tried the following (in this order): rubber band for grip slightly drilling into head with thin bit for grip thick wad of electrical tape for grip wrapping twine around head and yanking.
I would consider my skills and available tools/materials, come up with a construction, and use google and the stupid question thread when issues arise. I'd go through several design iterations, considering various advantages and drawbacks of different methods. Eventually I'd settle on 2-3 variants that seem promising. Only after that I'd present my plans to /diy/ and make a thread asking for feedback and posting pictures of my progress.
But I don't have a dentist's chair, so it's more of a hypothetical thing.
Nothing that is going to get released is going to be heaps better then the ones out now. we hit a slow period in development of new microprocessors. Until the next big breakthrough in production they are all the same quality pretty much.
hel me out here please DIY dinosours i found a misteri on a metal forum from spain and i cant find this company and what its the disc for. aditiona information it come in a box of stuff when buy a lathe, the disc is hard bery hard so any one ?
1) If you only just bought it and it is broken, why not simply exchange it for another?
2) It is almost certainly gas but just incase could you confirm what fuel it uses?
3) Can you explain the nature of the fault? Are you unable to operate the mechanism in some way? Are you operating it but nothing is happening? If it uses a piezoelectric sparker is that not producing a spark? If it is gas fuelled then is gas issuing from the valve when you operate the mechanism? You'll be able to see escaping butane as a ripple in the air or smell it
Hey /diy/. I need to charge my Baofeng UV5R on the go, and I was wondering if I could use this step up converter ( http://www.powerstream.com/Product3.htm ) to charge it. The portable battery I'm using is the EasyAcc 9000mAh battery which has an output of 5V and 2.1A, while the Baofeng needs 8.4V at 400mA... Thanks for your help!
>>923216 yes. >8.4vx0.4A = 3.4W >5vx2.1A =10.5W plenty of power. that thing is fucking huge though. just search ebay for "buck stepup" to get something lighter(50g or so net mass), smaller and that costs 1$
How should I correctly remove this corrosion from my cordless drills terminals and battery? I've tried scraping it off with a knife in the past but the blue-green stuff eventually comes back and causes contact problems.
I don't really know anything about chemistry but is there some kind of baking soda solution I can try? The battery's are nickel–cadmium (NiCd) if that helps.
>Would you do it again given the chance? If not, then what would you do instead?
Being that /diy/ more than likely has a high percentage of tradesmen and engineers and the fact that I'm interested in engineering specifically, as I'm sure there are anons interested in going into a trade etc...... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I'm titled as an industrial electrician, in house for a specific highly automated manufacturing facility
basically I take calls from people who have something 'that doesn't work'. And I have to figure out why and get it working, everything from basic IT stuff and idiots who can't plug their stuff in, to trouble shooting industrial processes. When I don't have a call I work on PM stuff, condition checks, iso verification of sensors etc.
My job is amazing, I get to work with tons of crazy high end super obscure systems regularly. And if i can't work something out all im expected to do is find someone who can or spec out a new system to replace it. I have a little slice of the action from the light duty construction side to day to day trouble shooting of the underlying process which is being controlled to the new system engineering.
I would do it again and actively encourage smart young nerds to get into, everyone hears electrician and thinks they are gonna be drilling holes in the winter on a construction site. I'm really more like a electronics guy who has to comfortable around 600 amp 3 phase panels than what most people consider an 'electrician'.
only catch is you have to remember your not going to let the smoke out of a 1/4 resistor and/or fry your 5 dollar arduino you might kill someone or cause so much damage in dollars you could never earn a fraction of it to repay.
So you really need to be sure you understand what your working on before you work on it, and your constantly working on things you never saw before, so yeah you just have to learn how to deal with that
Safety and reliability are paramount at all times.
I design structures, bespoke sculptures and staircases/balustrades, glass, concrete, aluminium frames, steelwork etc.
I do finite element analysis, computer and hand calculations, and generally tell architects that they're fucking stupid, whilst fighting with builders who insist they've 'been dun doing this for 30 years'
I get paid fuck all for the work I do, and unfortunately, time is so constrained that all the really cool shit I do is packed too tightly for me to actually enjoy it. I'm learning though, so hopefully... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I got a rpi2b for Christmas and I am deploying it as a file, web, mail server. The problem is that there are no nice cases avalible with room for a 120mm fan. (I have a 120mm fan spinning on top of the open case for now)
So my idea is to build a case, I came to ask what sort of wood, what tools, how to finish it, if anyone has done this before.
I have basic woodwork class experience and think with some guidance I could come up with a decent first project.
pic related is sort of what I'm going for. still some touches to add.
The RPi2 generates little enough heat that you can handle it with a heatsink at max load for extended periods of time.
The whole system maxes out at 4 watts- for comparison, modern smartphones such as the iPhone 5 series discharge around 2 watts in operation. Those aren't even air cooled, and typically operate inside a protective case.
You don't need a fan, and probably don't even need a heatsink. If you're really concerned, you can buy appropriately sized heatsinks for spare change.
So I tried asking /cgl/ about this, but they pointed me over to you guys instead.
I'm currently in the preliminary design stage of working on a Laser Musket prop from Fallout 4.
I have a general idea of how to make it happen, but there are two questions which I need to answer before I can start making serious progress.
1) The gears linked to the crank handle before the glass ionizing chamber. The rearmost and frontmost wheels rotate in an opposite direction to the central wheel. Would it be wise to use a system of planetary gears (with the frame holding... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>923273 Not really. Nigga is asking how to make 2 gears rotate the opposite way and asking if anyone has a better idea on the light up charging chamber. I'd answer him but I don't know shit about first problem and I can't think of a better solution for second that isn't a terrible idea.
I had recently got into an accident in my 2006 kia Spectra 5. Instead of spending a shit ton of money for someone else to fix it my father decided I should do it. I wasn't going to object because I enjoy doing these sorts of things and my dad was going to pay for all of it. I fixed my car as well as upgraded a few parts here and there and painted it, all in all I had a ton of fun with it and picked up car repair and tuning as a bit of a hobby.
After this adventure, if you can call it that, I have decided I want to put together... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>923049 if you're in US, you won't find a skyline. Since you seem to be inclined to Asian market vehicles, here's my picks if I had money to throw around: If what you want is to learn and constantly upgrade, improve, maintain, dismantle and reassemble may I suggest a GTO/3000GT/Dodge Stealth or a Mazda RX7/Rx8. All can be picked up for cheap when not running and have new things you may not have found in your Kia. They will not be cheap to get running, but fun. However, my best and most reasonable advice... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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