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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 65. page
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I'm already decent at soldering. Pic related is NOT my work. However, I rarely solder anything smaller than 0.22 wires, and I would like to go smaller than that so that I can work on PCBs as well (In particular, I need to solder a few microUSB ports at some point).

Which tools are needed for this? I've heard something about using UV light and special resin to perform solder jobs on this scale.
How does the technique differ from regular "big" solder jobs?
15 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
>UV light (...) to perform solder jobs on this scale.
lol... it's infrared, not UV, and it's professional, definitely not DIY budget.
And you don't need it until BGA/WLCSP, and to be honest, for DIY-purpose hot air still suffices.

You can use normal tools, in general the differences are:
a) Forget about soldering gun (i.e. transformer-based tool), use a soldering iron. You need higher precision; the tip needs to be no more than 1.5mm for a microusb.
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Good advice. Tacky flux is good for keeping parts in place and providing the flux.
>I need to solder a few microUSB ports at some point

apply flux to pads
orient your connector to match the 5 pads with tweezers
apply solder liberally
if solder bridge occurs, wick excess off with solder wick


btw, most mUSB cons come with little dimples that sit neatly into your boards drill holes so aligning shouldn't be a problem to begin with

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Hello guys of /diy/. Someone knows how to make a small compressor? I need make one for make a medic vacuum cleaner. Thanks
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It's for this biomedic equipment
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Or just buy one of these?
No, must be a electric compressor.

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I was shopping for IR LEDs for a Wiimote whiteboard project, and I can't find any that are but 40ish degree. Are there any nice, 280 degree IR LEDs?
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The largest viewing angle Digikey has is 240, so probably not.

Can you use two IR LEDs?
These projects are already a thing, so maybe that's what they use. I don't understand why it has to be directional.
Also, I have a 60 degree, and I've tried doing it backwards, pointing it facing the camera while in front of the screen, and it detects the light at the points but won't respond as a mouse.

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I need help building an outdoor aerial rig,
I was thinking of using this guys measurements and custom threading some 3 1/2 inch pipe with at least 1 inch think couplings for each leg extention.

Can anyone see problems with that idea?
Contribute better ideas?

I'm a carpenter but I need this to be metal for physics purposes obviously.
Any help would be appreciated.
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I meant to add a link.
Replace swing by rope,
Trial and error.

If you're gunna rip somebody's idea or design off, try to look at it in person so you replicate it best you can.

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Hey /diy/, I'm trying to replace the power cord on a portable AC (LCDI won't reset; cable must have melted due to running in extreme heat recently), but nothing I've found online has similar plugs.

What do? Can I solder the plugs onto the terminals on the PCB? Or am I fucked?

Pic unrelated
4 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
>pic related
next time. Maybe then we can help.
I'm asking for general help, not specific info on the plugs or anything, don't be a cunt
You can solder the plugs yes, but I don't think you want to do that. First check if the cable has continuity (is one end electrically connected to the other end?). Then figure out why it melted.

I doubt it melted just due to ambient temperature, the cable is probably unable to handle the current safely (self-heating due to load + ambient heat = melted shit).

Benefits of doing a core aeration on a lawn yourself vs. Having a professional do it for you?

Thinking about doing it myself, but have not done it before.
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>We do it, For Free, anon.
don't you try and ruse me
do it yourself
talk to a few other friends and/or neighbors and rent a machine from from home depot or something
that's what I do every year (there's like 5 of us in this)
this way you pay a few dollars for a decent machine
a few beers and everything will run smooth!

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Quick question regarding schematics.
I'm fixing the power board from an old tv and 2 traces have been torn out of the PCB where somebody pulled out some bad capacitors.
I'm planning to just make a connection with wire but I'm a bit confused by the schematic.

The 2 caps in question are C863 and C851.
They are both missing traces from the negatice side.
Am I right in thinking that the bar symbol they're both connected to is common ground and can just connect them to any other common ground point?
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The schematic also uses this ground symbol which I assume is chassis ground (earth)
Never mind, I assumed it was common ground and went with that and it's good now
They are indeed supposed to connect to a common GND, but that common GND is explicitly different from chassis GND. You can likely tie the negative leads of the cap to any other node indicated with that thick bar. Try to keep the leads as short as you can and make sure there is not voltage on the caps before working on it.

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My living room to kitchen door has jammed shut, the handle doesn't operate the latch and once the handle was removed both sides it still refused to open manually. Any ideas?
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Use a credit card or metal strip with a notch on the side so you can slide it behing the latch, jiggling it a little will make the latch retract pressing the card against that angled surface of the latch will cause a force that pushes it inwards, allowing you to open the door.
Thank you, I'll see what I can do.
Looks like you're on the hinge side, grab a hammer and a flathead and tap the hinge pins out

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I'm setting up an old turntable - new amplifier system and I'm looking for some cheap yet good options for the whole phono amplifier thing.
Is there even such a thing if there actually is, what would you suggest?
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Go to >>>/mu/
You're on diy as in do it yourself dumbass so unless you're gonna make one go there.
>Good and cheap

Don't fucking exist. Get a second hand solid unit instead.
Lm833 is a pretty decent OP AMP if you're interested in building your own phonograph amp. Just get two of them, use 1/2 of each to make a buffer amp, then use the second half of each to make an amp with adjustable gain. If you really want to get fancy, add a couple of caps and resistors to make the RIAA filter on the gain amps.

The circuits are really simple and straightforward to build. You'll probably spend more time on the custom enclosure.

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I have one in my new car but STUPID FORD thought it was a good idea to have all the 12V outlets in the car run all the time!
This means that either the camera runs continuously (and wear the card out and drain the battery if I don't drive the car for a while) or that I have to remember to plug/unplug it every time I start/stop the car.
I need a work-around.
All the easily accessible electrics/electronics in the car run all the time (12V outlets, ceiling lights, glove compartment light) or are too complicated to get access to their power supply (radio, dashboard,...
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Run it off the Accessory wires, car stereo loom is probably the easiest- they'll be Red (Acc) and Black (earth) wires
Should I start digging under the dash or in the engine compartment (when it enters the firewall)?
Nope, its under the dash.
Safest bet is off the stereo loom which is off the cars radio- pull that out or go in from the side. Then run an extension off them to where you need a socket

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Hey /diy/ quick question .... is home casted aluminium safe to eat and drink from....? I really want to cast an Al cup but I'm a bit sceptic about drinking from it... I will cast it in greensand and the Al comes from soda cans....
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Its not safe, its to soft and brittle, anything that scrapes it, will loosen small chips that you will consume with whatever you put in it
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But what is the difference between fabric casted aluminium and home casted......? we use aluminium pots and pans
you mean factory casted not fabric casted?

I just started a stationary hobby. I bought a Pilot Metropolitan fountain pen. I Also would love to buy a7 envelopes but i cant find a7 letter paper that is long enough to fold into 3 equal parts. The image posted is the image used to create a solid brass wax sealer. suggestions and images of stationary collection would be very much appreciated.
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Im confused. Even after much googling...

So basically you want to create custom mailing envelopes??

And you need to find "a7" sheets of paper? I googled a7s size. Seems to me you need a paper slicer like one of those guillotine slicers. Because a7 is small just cut it from larger stock.
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Maybe i should just go with a bigger size? a9? The reason why i want a7 letter paper long enough to fold into threw equal parts, a big enough sizes for writing, is because i plan to seal the paper, not the envelope, with wax. That way i can ensure the wax survives the mailing process. I also have my mail hand cancelled.

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ITT post how to build a house, farm, boat, anime, etc with trash.

Looking for stuff related to subsistence and recycling, pics very related.
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Can one really live healthy with just potatoes?
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Thwre was actually a very long (though poorly funded) study on this. It was called Ireland.
And no, not for long. Add beans, longer, add milk/butter and even longer than that.
Check the gardening thread in /out/ for related info. Also /diy/ is pretty slow, no need to bump

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Hey /diy/, I'm looking forward to getting a well secured safe for the nearby future. Should I get a wall safe and install with security screws, a time delayed one, or should I go with one easy to grab and pick, but with fire protection? I need something good to keep unique things in securely as I need to relocate things from a unsecured method to a secure one. Can /diy/ makers give good security advice?

Pic unrelated.
5 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
It really depends on what you're trying to keep safe anon. I install close to 700 safes a year for businesses and a few home clients. Typically you just need to have an audible alarm and a way to keep the thief busy long enough they give up and run.
A good team of smash and grabbers can break into a place, and break into a safe and be gone in less than 4 minutes. Keep them there longer, with an alarm going off for the building, and they usually spook. Avoid safes that have two well pronunced hinges on the outside. Many older brinks safes have that. And they take less than a minute to open with a grinder. Piano hinges are where it's at. Also, internal hinges when possible, but that's more expensive.
Time delay safes are okay, and mainly what I install for businesses. It leads back to the whole keeping robbers there until they spook. Most people are going to have a fireproof safe for their important documents, not so much for money.

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I have some questions about a propane burner I've been building. I have a setup for a propane burner that reads about 30 PSI when closed, and I think a little bit under 10 PSI when it's closed. But when I open it and try to light it, the propane blows out the flame. My guess is that there's too much propane and not enough oxygen. The setup works at 20 PSI or so, but goes out if I point it into an enclosed space like the inside of my furnace. I was thinking about using a hairdryer to add extra oxygen, but what is the best thing to do in this situation?
6 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
Sorry anon. Not a lot pf experience with propane but I hear this works well with it. I have my own modified version for a medium sized foundry. I have burned used motor oil, gasoline, and diesle from it so far.

I think you can build a cheaper natural gas or propane burner.

In any case gl op!

kwiky burner search on google
Op you gotta get a little clearer here for us to help. Can you draw a diagram of your set up? I think additional air from a plow dryer would help if you added it to the propane stream
Just add a hole behind the flame (don't really know how to describe that, I'd need to see your torch). Flame fill create something like wind, that'll suck more air inside of the torch.

I know this is kind of a strange question, but does anyone know where to get the component used in the 3DS for the circle pad, or something similar? Just for fun I am playing creating an input method that cannot be keylogged and that faux-joystiq has both the sensitivity that I would need and a nice low profile.
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Wow this is great. Thank you.
that's nice

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Is there a way to get certifications in a certain trade without spending two years in school, I already know the shit I just want to take a test and get it certified
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You don't need a pre apprenticeship course. You need to get an apprenticeahip, though. Many smaller companies would rather take a person with a decent amount of experience in construction than a kid that got out of school.

Around here, during apprenticeship you do have to go to school for 2 months out of the year until your apprenticeship is completed (4 years on a 40 hr work week). It's bullshit as you don't learn jack shit and have to pay for it. It's a cash gtab.
Depends what it is.. You can actually become a master in a trade by just doing it and having experience and a good portfolio.. Most trade papers just say "you studied under so and so, for 2 years and they are writting off you have learned enough."
>Is there a way to get certifications in a certain trade without spending two years in school, I already know the shit I just want to take a test and get it certified

Can't you just challenge?out here you can just challenge the whole thing if you don't have the hours written down or whatever.

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Hey dudes, I was planning to make a micro-grill. I was gonna take a metal box o cookies pic related, and take bamboo barbecue skewers wrapped in foil and poke it through the box to form a grill. Only problem i've seen is that apparently foil is unhealthy. any alternatives i could use to make a grill?

plz be gentle, first post on this board
13 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
You don't sound old enough to be playing with fire.
Get off your dads computer and go take a nap.
Pretty sure any plant based material won't last more than 30 seconds under a flame. Wrapping it in foil will only create charcoal (I think). Get yourself some stainless skewers or something like that. The paint and other coatings on the tin wouldn't be very healthy to breathe when they melt as well.

All around bad idea but an ideas still an idea so go for gold. As long as you don't die you'll learn a valuable lesson.
not really gonna use it as an actual grill, more like a novelty, like " hey guys, check out what I built! A tiny grill!"

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Hi everyone,

I'm currently trying to control a load (requires 12V and something like 1 amp) with the logical output of my Arduino Uno (0-5 V, probably a few hundreds milliamps.). The emitter power supply delivers 12V at up to 1.5 amp.

So I have a few questions.

1) I guess my transistor must have a max. collector current above 1 amp (maybe more, to be sure) ?
2) This collector current must absolutely be limited by a resistor, right? But the voltage and current limits make it so that the resistor would be reaaaally low. Is there a solution? No resistor?
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There are a couple of different types of transistor configurations, and the difference between them is how much current you will need on the base to activate the switch. In a typical transistor, the amount of current needed to put it in saturation mode depends on how much load you are switching. Since you are using an arduino, I would recommend a darlington transistor because you can only apply 40mA of current from any output pin. Use something like a TIP120 or TIP122.

As far as current limiting the load, you're...
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Thanks for the quick answer !

A TIP120 has a max collector current of 5amp, and my power supply won't go over 1.5 amp (which is alright for the load). Does this mean that i don't have to use any resistor in my circuit? Like logic output goes to base, power supply Vcc+ goes to Emitter, load between ground and collector?
Also, depending on what it is that you are powering, the load itself may be able to limit the current. That is, the load may only draw as much as it needs, so no additional current limiting would be necessary.

I think TIP120 is rated for something like 10A, so you shouldn't have any problems overloading that device (just be sure to put a heatsink on it), so as long as your device doesn't instantly self destruct when you apply the power supply to it without a switch in the middle, it should do fine...
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>bought a house a year ago
>one year home warranty included
>decent HVAC performance
>didn't renew the policy
>decided to check the system though
it was cooling but not as much as I wanted
>low refrigerant, small leak in the evaporator (small enough that I'm losing about 1-2 lbs a year, at least that's what I calculated)
>system is charged...
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I'd just pay for it now and have them fix it in a month or two before it gets worse.
OP here.
The system will run fine until at least next summer (unless something happens to the hole to make it bigger) or, worst case scenario, end of summer (there's not much hot season left).
I'll probably start the warranty in September-October to make it less obvious I'm concerned about the AC. Fuck it, if anything else breaks in the house I can fix it myself but I don't want to touch refrigerant systems.
I wonder if there are warranties out there just for the AC part of the HVAC ...
Sometimes a home warranty needs additional options to cover an AC.

When I renewed a warranty after I allowed it to lapse they didn't require a reinspection.

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You help me, glory for the Chinese to do this. American mc burger!
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Then do it.
And ask for help when you get stuck.
i need money give ---> sp32chen@xinhuaspam.cn
Is this rour idea for a fast response battleship?

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Custom controller help needed.
My brother recently had an operation to remove a tumor from his brain which they managed to remove successfully but they also had to scrape dangerously close to his spinal cord, because of this he now has very limited use of his right arm and leg and lost most of sight in right eye but he is walking again with crutches.
Anyway, enough of the sob story, I would like to make him a custom controller for xbox 1(or ps4/pc) Ben heck has stopped selling his one handed controllers and I think they were very expensive anyway.
I'm thinking...
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Please and thank you, my bad.
This is a good thing you're doing, OP.
I'd start by buying 2-3 controllers and taking one apart. Check how everything fits together and which wires go where. Then, just create the input system you want (if XYBA will be his foot, then four switches) and link it to the place where the thing you're replacing goes (wire from the foot switches to the PCB or whatever, i know nothing about xbox controllers)
You'll probably need to do some soldering. The extra controllers will be useful for parts. Other than that, ask specific questions in electronics threads
what about a DDR pad?

So i recently made my own Ikea Kallax look a like shelf out of some spare wood, would it be possible to paint it in the true Ikea Kallax color without people noticing any difference in color between my home made shelf and Ikea shelf if they are standing next to each other?

I know nothing about painting
9 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
not unless they are blind
Why would you stylize any furniture to look like Ikea? Everyone knows they're selling crap.

but otherwise, >>1032486 and >>1032588

>* IKEA made the sides of Expedit 50% thinner, and renamed it Kallax. They call this 'Being Environmentally Friendly'. Be interested if McDs (random example) would get away with this BS unchallenged, or is it only Swedes?

I want diy my own platform bed frame. How should I go about making this? Retail is $1200 and I think I can make one fore under $200. Pic related.
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i know someone that has one...the slats in the middle are just 2x4's and there is a support beam int he very middle the rest on along with the sides.....very easy design
sorry, new laptop. there is a support beam in the very middle and the slats rest on that and on the sides
Go and visit the actual bed in the show room and see how it is held together.

Deconstruct it on paper.

Then replace all the knockdown fittings (as I imagine it's flat pack) with real joints.

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Hey /diy/

I'm trying to machine a shot glass out of 20mm shell casing. My questions are thusly

>Will alcohol affect the metal
>Is there a coating, resistant to alcohol, that I can use on it
>Is this even a good idea?
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It's a great idea, use something called bisphenol a to cote it. It's the same stuff they coat aluminum cans and canned foods with.
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>>Will alcohol affect the metal
No, the casing is brass. A couple washes with soapy water and alcohol will get rid of any lead/combustion residues still lurking around. Pretty much any cleaner that doesn't have ammonia will do.
>>Is there a coating, resistant to alcohol, that I can use on it
Something that isnt't water- or ethanol- soluble. Only thing I can think of off the top of my head is teflon, but that shits too complicated to...
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You could place a glass shot glass inside it, that way you get the look and it's safe to use.

These are called Chicken Bump Feeders.

Its a trigger that a chicken pecks at and it bumps the feed to allow it to fall down so he can eat it.

I want to brainstorm on some idea's on how to DIY a few of these.

Usually you just take a bucket and put a hole in the bottom then you put the trigger end through the hole and fill the bucket up with feed.

The cross part holds the trigger in place and the paddle on top stirs the feed.

Then when the chicken hits the trigger at the bottom each time the food gets stirred and some drops out...
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Lol I used the wrong pic
And here I was about to ask just how fucking big your chickens are
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He literally shows you what the working end looks like in the video.

(Superadobe)- As shown. Allows one to build with mainly the ground beneath them.
In contrast to adobe bricks, new earth is instead packed into rolls of tube bagging. Layers are lined with barbed wire.

Any convievable alternatives to creating a beautiful place to live in our world today?
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looks weak
Plenty of alternatives, like building with bricks, or timber.
I dislike bagged and tire builds. I prefer traditional methods, masonry, cob, sod, adobe, slate, thatch, and timber. The instant you start putting plastic into it like those polybags or rubber like in rammed-earth in tires constructions I dislike it for a number of reasons. I also dislike straw bale construction.

I however to like their method of placing barbed wire between the bag layers to help anchor them in place prior to covering it with cob/adobe and they are good for emergency shelters as advertised.

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What went wrong?
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He drank too much.
He got married.
he stopped doing/peddling cocaine and being relevant

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Hello /diy/ I've been very interested in creating a backyard stack smelter (charcoal,charge,charcoal, charge, etc) and I've been watching/ researching info on how to make such a thing happen. Are there any /diy/nosaurs that have created anything similar that can give me any pointers, pictures,and designs that work the best. I'm trying to keep this under about $100 for all of the bricks and material which I believe is iron oxide(Fe3O4 or Fe2O3). Also Bloom/Blacksmith general.
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Op here, I'm surprised that no one has done this, and especially with primitive tech doing something like it last week I'm surprised it didn't ring up a huge amount of interest in it. That's why I even posted this thread, to concentrate all that interest into the actual topic instead of fighting over that sexy aussy
Found this. Following clips on the channel.

Not reusable but def under 100$

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I'm in over my head with this one and an electrician is not an option.
This junction was on a wall that I removed in my bathroom and had another box Frankensteind to it.
It's two switches, light and vent fan , and a GFI plug.
There's a wire going to a plug in the next room over.
There was two wires going into it I'm assuming are the mains.
I'm recycling the switches and plug, but bought a three gang box for replacement.
I'm assuming I have to just tear every wire apart from every other one, but Jesus fuck this is a mess.
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Also got a wire going to this junction box that looks like flows to a bedroom down here and then up into the bathroom above.
only looks complicated cos its messy.

get rid of everything and start again with those thick white wires.

should be pretty simple to wire them up.

use terminal strip to help you get it figured out. then if you want to put it all in a nice neat junction box you can.
Nope, that box has a different wire feeding it that I'm not fucking with.
The wire I thought was it just goes into the living room back wall.

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