Need help, guys. I typically post woodworking stuff. Have recently become obsessed with electronics, but am admittedly amateur level.
Wanting to get into audio and build stereo/guitar amps. Am currently at a Frys Electronics in Atlanta to pick-up a Fluke 117.
My question that I'm hoping you guys can help with is wtf is the difference in manufacturers and materials of electronic components and the difference they can make. Frys has everything, component-wise, minus said tubes. But I hear their components are somehow inferior for most applications, audio or... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>919350 No expert but these things usually come down to tolerances and power ratings, you mostly would have to take their word for it as testing these tolerances would be time consuming and in some cases destructive. For example, modern microprocessors and chips are usually rated after manufacture for their stable speeds and what not.
So I just saw these ( see image ) at my local Dollar Tree and bought four of them to be beaters. A dollar a piece seemed like a bargain for a cheap beater but I noticed the blades are not sharp at all. This also happens to be my first experience with owning a knife for every day carry and I'm wondering how to maintain the blades on them. They were dull right out of the box.
How do you sharpen your knives and keep the tools on your multi-tool working? If you were going to buy an expensive multi-tool which would you buy and why? I know these tools are not meant to... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>919283 If you don't know when to use it, why buy 4? Why buy 4 in the first place? Anyhow, I only like to carry multitools on my keys, because I forget them everywhere. I use them when I don't need my toolbag to complete a repair at work. Mostly 2 Phillips to get to a control board. Good for computers, as you only really need a screwdriver, pliers and a cutting edge.
As for what I'd buy, it doesn't matter. You'll be attracting the elitist faggits here in a few minutes who will tell you... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I need you pc building specialists assistance. I need to form a pc before the 30th, It's going to be a video editing PC. Currently I'm running an 8 year old pc that just cant handle the abuse the video editing gives it.
Currently: AMD Athlon II X4 630 2.80GHz 4 gigs of ram 64 bit I know compared to new technology thats not high quality but over the years it has done ALOT and I don't regret the time used but I need something more advanced.
Keep in mind I never built a PC before but I need it for my business and it mid range cost... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
You are not building a conventional PC, so ignore people giving advice on how to do that.
Part one: as much, and as fast, RAM as you can afford. If you can, go for two sockets, because that means two memory controllers, which means twice as much RAM. Part two: storage with high throughput. You don't actually need an SSD here, though SSDs are nice in general. Hard disks in mirrored RAID are perfectly acceptable for offline editing, as (due to you adequately provisioning the RAM) there are no random accesses, just big-long sequential slurps. If your tools let you have a scratch disk, or you're using one of those hierarchical cache programs, by all means get a PCIe SSD to act as swap/scratch/cache. Part three used to be hard, but now it's just a case of making sure the path from each device to your RAM is not bottlenecked. This may mean adding in additional storage controllers if the ones that come with your motherboard aren't up to it, but they will be, because you got a decent dual-socket workstation motherboard in step one, right?
Part zero: you don't need much of a GPU, because the rendering doesn't use it, and the UI works with reduced-resolution thumbnails. You could probly even get away with an NVS or onboard graphics.
First learn DC theory. Then learn AC theory. Then learn how semiconductors work. Then op-amps. Then digital electronics. If what you want to do is still too complicated to do with that knowledge, then go look at microcontrollers and microprocessors. If you do it in the reverse order, you won't have any understanding of electronics, you'll just know how to hook up wires and write code. Of course if you don't care about actually learning anything then do what you want, but if you want real knowledge of electronics, then do it in the order stated above. Microcontrollers... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Hey /diy/, so I ordered a soldering pen for 3$ online which I admit was probably a mistake in its own, anyways it includes 2 soldering wires. >pic related
Does anyone know if I can use these wires to solder on a circuit board? There is no instructions or descriptions of what material the wire is made out of, but all I know is that it's very flexible even more flexible than a regular staple.
Solder wire comes in 2 'common' types. Lead, and Lead-free.
Most old hands will tell you lead-free solder is utter garbage, blaming it for everything from tin-creep causing shorts, to poor thermal properties to causing cancer. I do know this: It requires much higher temperatures to flow nicely, meaning more stress on components during install and risking damage to legacy equipment. In my job I work with a lot of 70's and 80's era stuff, which is all quite... delicate. Lead free is just too stressful to use for that stuff.
Lead solder is more workable at lower temps, more stable as it ages (no creep), although it does have a lot of NASTY side effects - It's lead after all and it was removed from modern electronics for a good reason. Prolonged exposure can make you sick, and it's effects are cumulative.
The solder your pen came with SHOULD be lead-free and SHOULD have a label saying so. If not, bin it and decide which you want to work with. You can find datasheets online for all solder types (A LOT more than just leaded/lead free, those are just the most common, and even then the alloys vary).
I love doing CAD/Solidworks design, 3D printing, I'm good with cars and tools, and I'm really interested in doing machining. I could watch Clickspring and AvE for days because it fascinates me. But how do I get into that professionally? I can't go into a shop and say, "If you give me a drawing with dimensions and a couple hours of instruction on how to use the tools, I feel confident I could do it for work." How do you get into that industry without going through a whole 2+ years of school for that?
pic... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
i doubt it op, plus most places you are just babysitting a computer. save up, buy a lathe, set up your own shop. but really go to school. you don't need a 2 year course, you can probably find a community college course to learn the basics, see if its right for you.
There's a lot more to machining than being good with 3D stuff. You need to understand different materials, tool geometry, tolerances, forces generated, machine ability to take the forces, speeds and feed rates, safety, ect, ect.
No one is going to give you access to a machine worth hundreds of thousands of dollars without you knowing these things. You might be able to get something as a machine operator doing mass production.
Best way to get into it is probably some schooling and learning manual machining methods at a small job shop.
>pic... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Hi diy, I wanted to make a camera head mount rig, something that can hold a canon T5 on my head and shoot POV shots. They seem to only have things for Gopro online so I wanted to know if you guys had any intuitive ideas on ways to make a head mount from mounting gear and other conventional items.
Ive recently started making (jewelry) rings out of old bearings, and i thought it might be nice to paint some. But i have no idea what kind of paint i should use that both hold well on metal, yet is 100% skin friendly etc.
I'd like to make a small, hinged box for my girlfriend.
So far, it's just a few pieces of 3 ply with the bottoms glued to the base with a PSA. I used these because I work at a flooring adhesive factory and it's what's on hand. The sides aren't glued though (and 3 ply isn't very strong), so I was thinking about putting a layer of primer on top of it to hold it together more, and then painting on top of that. Unfortunately, this stuff has some ragged edges from cutting, and I'm guessing I'll need to sand it too.
What is the most efficient approach from where I am currently to a painted, stable, hinged box?
>>919076 I would ditch the PSA and go for wood glue and a miter joint for the sides. Use wood filler or Spackle to fill in the rough edges and sand smooth. Depending on the roughness of the ply, you may want to fill and sand smooth the rest of the surfaces as well. Prime heavy, sand, paint, clear coat, admire.
>>919076 Op glue isn't gonna hold your "girlfriend" in the box for very long. She will eventually chew through the sides. But if you really have to use glue and not screws, make finger joints and put it together. Use a rasp to round out the sides and corners, a file to smooth it out a bit more and finally sandpaper. Now the paint job depends of the finish you want. Do you want it to look like old varnished wood work? Or like a cheap Chinese plastic box?
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