I'm looking to convert pic related into pic related, a 3 axis CNC for cutting plastics and thin steel and engraving objects. This was a printer that had a table that lifted via 4 leadscrews on each corner, which will allow me to work all sorts of weird sized objects. I have sourced all the parts I need for the rails and bearings for the X and Y axis, I'm pretty much ready to build except for the electronics side.
http://blog.cnccookbook.com/ has been my bible so far, but it is thin on control circuits. I have been able to find plenty of stepper drivers, but not a circuit that ties it all together. Anyone got any protips on controller resources or popular builds I can study?
Anyone else working on a CNC? What are your objectives and how are you achieving them?
I am also looking into CNC machines at the moment but for the purpose of milling PCBs, it requires very fine movement and high resolution so I'm not sure that a lot of sit CNC setups can achieve what I am looking for.
If you are looking at electronics I have to recommend the tinyg http://synthetos.myshopify.com/products/tinyg A lot of CNC controllers are tard-uino based and controlling 3+ axis and interpreting gcode pushes Arduino to its practical limit. The tinyg controller uses special motion planning algorithms to ensure super smooth translations for the... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I'm thinking of making an electric incense heater/burner for resins (like pine, myrrh, frankincense) by embedding a length of kanthal wire in some kind of thermally conductive, but electrically insulating material. I expect the max temp of the heater will be less than 500F. Would plaster of paris be a good material for this? Or should I use some kind of castable refractory? Thanks.
Yeah, probably is outta budget. I was thinking treated pine, or using PVC. Which would be easy to do all the fittings and assembly for... Just not fleshed it out enough on how I would attach the ire screens or doors or weight bearing cross beam perches and shit
>>1023099 Hmm, I have one of those. Loved it but the headphone jack got too loose to use anymore. I think the battery pack died as well. Rockbox firmware on them made them the best little mp3 player I've owned.
But yeah >>1023121 Is right, your shit outta luck when it comes to exact replacement. If it was me I'd just get a small female ended cable and solder it onto the pads where the old jack was. Sure little dangle out but it will still be useful again.... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I attempted to make a backyard foundry lining a steel bucket with some plaster and with a plaster lid. My heat source is some charcoal and my crucible is graphite.
My problem is, I'm having trouble getting the crucible hot enough to melt any soda cans. It's hot as hell, but the cans just sit there. I'm lining the bottom and sides a bit with charcoal, lighting them with lighting fluid and a utility lighter, then putting the crucible in and adding some more charcoal.
I've got a 30 year old CEC directly drive DD-8200 model. It's got a free grounding cable (pic related, red one) and I don't know what to do with. > I don't know muchness about electronics > friends suggested to get it in contact with some radiator or something > I'm afraid that's not really an option What should I do /diy/ ?
your amplifier will (usually..) have a screw marked GND - attach to this. If not, use any body screw on the amp - this is also the onlything that should be attched to this, turntable GND to amp GND, do not into radiators n shit.
Can also try without, will not blow up, but will probably hummm lotz.
so i bought a helicoil kit for my timing belt tensioner, on my subaru outback. Its beeen a 2 month project, dont have time to do more research, someone please tell me what size helicoil i need to buy. The bolt is 9.6 mm thick on the threads, on a 14 mm bolt, is this standard ? or custom? I believe the pitch is 1.25 mm.
I also bought a 14mm tap when my original pklan was epoxy in the hole, drill , tap, it ended up being too large, how could that be? is 1.25mm pitch bolts skinnier than 1.5 mm bolt? Someone please explain, or just link me to the product i neeed.... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Worst project? I have a 1978 Motobecane Mobylette in my garage that I've spent nearly a grand on and it still doesn't run. I bought the thing for 100. I'm quickly becoming my family's version of 'guy with a Trans Am up on blocks in his back yard because it'll totally run someday.'
I want to make a wooden cradle for my phones wireless charger. At a glance this shouldn't be a difficult task, however, I have no tools and no friends or family to borrow them from. I did, however, take shop class in high school which was about ten years ago.
I guess I just need wood, and a device to carve a circle out of it and a "tunnel" for the cord to go through. Do any places allow you to borrow tools or use them for a period of time?
>>1024297 Make a bunch of wide-ish right angles, and a bunch of also wide-ish straight pieces cut at 45 degrees at each end so they fit together at right angles. Cut the curves out of them so you've got like twenty pieces that go from corner-to-corner, and twenty pieces that go from midpoint-of-side-to-midpoint-of-side. Then stack on top of each other layers of alternating corner pieces and side pieces with wood glue between each layer. Clamp with like eight clamps and leave for 24 hours. chisel off excess glue and sand.
Hey guys, never posted on /dyi/ before but I have a small question, my split air conditioner unit (as in with an outdoor and indoor unit) didn't come with enough insulation for the copper pipes but I installed it any way, so now around 10 cm~ of copper pipe that leads outside of the outdoor unit is uninsulated, the one which condensation drips off of, now, will that be a problem in winter, there's no risk of the copper wires freezing or anything due to the uninsulated part right?
>>1024271 If I were you I'd go to the hardware store and get some insulation just to wrap around the tubes for good measure. Should be fine in the winter tho, copper is quite maluable compared to steel and other metals
My son threw a rock that broke the this glass but I like the way it looks and I'm too cheap to replace it. Is there anyway to secure the glass with glue or some type of film? The window is triple pane with glass only being in the center of the pane.
>>1024018 >My son threw a rock that broke the this glass but I like the way it looks and I'm too cheap to replace it. It is safety-tempered glass, and it's supposed to do that. (It is supposed to completely shatter into tiny dull pieces, if it is cracked anywhere at all)
The problem with using most kinds of adhesive plastic film is that the adhesive and the plastic change when exposed to UV light--the adhesive either hardens or gets less sticky, and the plastic film tends... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
been (at least) one more, if the 4chan deadlines weren't non-obv. AUS time, or made up as they went along. Was also certain, evetnual winner would be least related to actual /diy/ memes as well, no fucker on here can actually vote, far as I can tell/guess.
Congrats to the winner anyway - take your hard-won pass and kys ;)
After a lot of hemming and hawing and hee hawing and weighing the pros and cons between Milwaukee, Makita, Bosch, Hitachi, Ryobi, and Dewalt, I went out and got myself a Dewalt 20v Max drill/driver combo kit.
I'm now locked in baby. Did I dun goof for not going with another brand, or did I do well? I'm upgrading from a Dewalt 14.4v drill and I can tell you now the new drill absolutely destroys the old one in performance, like night and day, but it still works despite a downright abusive relationship I've had with it so I think Dewalt really knows how to... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1023840 I got a cheap drill at harbor freight. Chicago or Milwaukee or some shit. I rarely use it, so it's fine for me. All the carpenters I see always have fucking dewalt everything. I imagine that shit is designed to last a long time being used every fucking day. I doubt u can go wrong with it OP.
What is the best way to generate 8400 watts of electricity? Short of buying a fuel burning generator that is.
I'm trying to go off grid. I've worked out my average daily consumption to about 25-26 KWH per day. Yes that is heavy, but it's also counting the fact that I don't live alone, and there are 3 water boilers on the property, one of which runs about 3-4 hours a day on average, and one loafer at home all day. I also have a blacksmith forge, and occasionally use the arc welder for touch ups and structural welds. And electricity prices are hiking... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1022509 Unfortunately not, but I live in a windy suburb. >>1022518 Already reduced as much as I can, short of getting LED lights, Planning on getting gas soon, and I shut off the distributor switch to the boiler when it's not in use
Hey /DIY/. So I'm in the process of building this forge (pic related) and as you can see it's working nicely. I purchased some stock standard pizza oven mortar rated to 1000 C and thought if I just layered it on I'd be fine.
It ended up cracking all along the bottom of the mortar and up both sides of the wall. I'm pretty certain what happened was I made it too wet and it boiled the wet mix inside causing it to expand. (I let it dry for 3 days and I fired it slowly at a low temp).
Anyway I was wondering if I even NEED refractory. The bottom of... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Knife making for beginners so DIY, I am thinking of buying some metal and grip material to make a knife at home, I don't have a belt grinder and I don't really want to buy one. any tips? I'm using this article for help and a few vids http://www.instructables.com/id/Fixed-Blade-Knife/
>>1022011 >Knife making for beginners >so DIY, I am thinking of buying some metal and grip material to make a knife at home, I don't have a belt grinder and I don't really want to buy one. any tips? I'm using this article for help and a few vids http://www.instructables.com/id/Fixed-Blade-Knife/
As a beginning don't blow all your wedge on a KMG, awesome as they may be.
You can use an angle grinder or a bastard cut and a couple other files for your first.
See if you like working with metal first! No matter how good you get there will always be filework to do. If you don't like the feel and screech of metal on metal then it'll be a passing phase.
You can buy cheap 1" belt grinders, with a disc on the side which is surprisingly useful for truing up, as a 1" has so little contact area. This will suffice for your first few.
If after you've stock removed and handled a few, then it will be worth looking into all the specialty tools and jigs.
Please be aware in 99% of cases this will be a satisfying hobby, not any sort of reliable income source. I know stock removal guys that do a beautiful job, but they can't shift the finished product for more than parts, let alone labor the majority of the time.
>>1022011 Might talk a bit about materials. As a hobbyist you tend to have high expectations, but as >>1022041 mentions, this is a high-ish cost and not really something you can easily make a quid on. I've made knives on-off for many years and most of my stuff just ends up presents for friends and relatives, if you manage to sell something for more than materials and hours, good on you!
>Blade steels You can look at starting... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1022083 >Handles Ideally you want a handle to fulfil 2 functions- 1. Be comfortable to use 2. Protect the user from the blade So spend a bit of time nutting something out which has form and function within your skillset and ability to manufacture. This means scribbling down pictures, I spend a lot of time here making sketches of 'how' the blade and handle will merge together, because it is important, if it wasn't important- then just spend $50-100 on some mass manufactured piece of shit. As a hobbyist, don't be afraid to push boundaries either, lets face it- you're not here the money so make something artistic which has beauty and love of the craft.
>Bolster and Guard materials Starting out, use some of the softer materials, brass, copper and bronze are ideal as they're easy to work and attractive. However, they're not cheap and will suffer from some corrosion- Bronze/gunmetal in particular is often very hard to find in bar sections, when it is, its damn expensive. Copper is the cheaper out of the 3, but will rapidly corrode and require constant maintenance Brass is a personal fav, its easy to work- reasonably priced, comes in a variety of bar and plate shapes and sizes, slow to corrode and will polish up like gold.
304 and 316 Stainless are excellent materials for guards, they're rough, tough and take no shit. They also polish up like a mirror and being austenite steels they have their full corrosion resistance as-is, they do not harden and can't be used for blades, the colour of 304 is also very good for matching with many types of blade steels. Oh boy they're gunna beat you up and take hours to work- but its worth it because they're pretty and durable.
Hello /diy/. I need help troubleshooting this guitar pedal.
It's a John Bull Overdrive that I bought back in 2007. It has always functioned properly, without any fault, but yesterday I picked it up, plugged it and no sound was coming out of it when the efect was engaged. Otherwise, when in true-bypass mode, the sound went thru cleanly and without any fault.
I opened it and made some continuity tests (i'm no expert in electronics) and everything I checked looked fine, so I can't find the problem. So, what do you think? Maybe some blown up caps... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
So, I've been researching how to create wooden flash drives and the like. I have all the tools and supplies necessary to make some really nice ones. However, I've also been researching how to burn Lichtenberg patterns (Lightning scars) into wood. There's a beautiful method where you can burn your pattern in, clean the debris out and then fill the new lightning-shaped void with a colored resin. Once done, you can sand and polish to get pic-related. Here's the dilemma though. Because of the method to create these wooden drives, the actual board of the drive... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
First off, you could just order a cheap drive, give it a go, and see if it works afterwards. Alternately, use a larger wooden block (which gives you more surface area for the pattern anyway) with a larger void, insert the drive into the middle, fill the rest of the void with electronics potting compound.
My next door neighbor in the apartment next to me is a small thin sorority girl with long blonde hair who lives in the apartment next to me and I know she is talking about me but I need to prove it and since she lives in the apartment next to me I think I can listen through the walls but the microphones aren't picking it up. She's a small thin sorority girl and it bothers me that she talks about me in the apartment right next to mine! Rude! So I've rigged up a dozen microphones pressed up against the wall but they can't pick up anything. Not a word! But I... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1017916 I can easily wire microphones myself I just can't get them powerful to pick up enough sound. I can't pay someone to do this for me and I have all the materials myself to seal them to the wall if I have to but I don't know how and that's why I came here so that someone could tell me how to record through the walls to the apartment next to me because my microphones aren't picking up sound.
I'm looking for advice with RFID or an alternative. I'm working on a project where I need to be able to detect the pages of a very large "book" (around 20 pages and something like 1 m2 squared). I need to be able to detect each page to know where the book is open (ie which page) and then specific content will be projected on it. This was done in the past with RFID tags and sensors but these can't be too close, so it limits the number of pages as only 3 readers can be placed on each side with the current size, see pic related.
I know RFID... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
So this is my very first DIY project. I'm making a table. I've never done anything like this. I just bought cheap construction lumber from menards and built this. It's nowhere near finished and I learned a lot making it.
I do plan on making a table with nice wood next, this was basically my rough draft/learning process.
I will be staining it once it's done, which I've never done before either. Unfortunately it's not the most level as I'm only using a skill saw a tape measure so my lines aren't very straight. After some practice I've now got that process quite well.
Regardless I'm pretty proud of my piece of crap scrap table. This is the result of about 5 hours and around 10 beers.
Are electrically-powered turbines currently commercially available? As in, a turbine powered by electric current, NOT one used to generate it.
Specifically looking for something that can generate 5-15 PSI, but wondering about the principle of operation overall. (I guess it would have to be magnets firing in sequence, but I am not competent enough to know if this is realistic at those pressure requirements).
I don't know if it's a good place to ask, but a friend wants to knit me a scarf for this autumn. I have no idea what's trendy for scarves, does /diy/ have any suggestions for scarf designs or websites where I could find some?
Help /DIY/, i'm trying to repair this old Sony camera ccd-tr818 to use as a player to transfer an 8mm tape to digital.
I don't have the original battery so i connected a 9V power supply to the Vin and ground pins on the board but the camera detects that there is no battery and shuts down 5 seconds after boot. It seems the only 3 connections from the battery are the battery Vin GND and BATT_SIG. does anyone know what the BATT_SIG connection does?
for reference the BATT_SIG line to ground has 2.5V with nothing connected. pic related is the full schematic.
>>1023767 sounds like the circuit checks if the battery is plugged in or not, probably for some purpose of switching between drawing power from the power supply vs the battery. ie if there is a battery in it but it's also plugged in, use the power supply instead
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