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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 79. page
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Do any of you guys know anything about making your own clothes? I was thinking more like knitting or weaving rather than sewing but any clothes discussion welcome.

I'm looking to learn how to make practical warm and comfy clothes but most stuff I see online is by either girls or metro guys buying a sewing machine and giving themselves some sort of fashion edge by having control over their style.
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This is great, thanks a lot anon.
/fa/ggot here

What's the heaviest canvas that one could sew with an average household sewing machine?

Heya, /diy/.

I've no idea if I've come to the right place, but guess so, /k/ doesn't seem appropriate. I am currently thinking about making some semi-usable armour for post-apoc events, and titanium came to mind when friend told me about some scrap titanium, since I know soviets used it for some personal armour. I fence sometimes, shoot stuff, like to do silly things, ocassionally gain a little coin from leatherwork and my trade is blacksmithing, as to why I came to this idea.

But I know pretty much crap about titanium apart from the basics. So......
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4130 steel heat-treated to 42-45 HrC will be vastly easier, cheaper, and simpler to work than Ti.

(and 40-45HrC is the upper limit you want on plates. more and brittle failure is a risk.)
Well, the appeal of titanium to me is it is something other than steel I work more or less daily, and also that it is lighter. So that's why. IE - I want to use titanium for the sake of using titanium, even if only a little piece of armour like knee pads or smaller shoulderpad or something of that nature.

Also, 45HRC seems about right, altough I still think it is tad too soft. At least for choppy stuff, I don't know much about ballistic plates.
Think you'd go mad forging the shit, it work hardens super-fast, like literally you'd get 4 hits in and then tink tink tink before having to anneal it.
Can't really cast it very easily either at a hobby level, think the melting point is around 1700C or so.

Most people who'd make an armour out of it, probably would use scales or chainmail

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Can someone recommend a decent CO2 sensor?

I tried the MH Z14 and got a piece of China crap.
Google showed that almost noone got it working.
Regular CO2 devices only display the pp concentration. I want to get some kind of signal i can use for automatation.

>inb4 Val Kilmer ist the best batman
Opinions, on Co2 sensors pls
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can you buy a co2 detector made by a big brand at goodwill or something, open it up and look up the sensor? i don't remember seeing dioxide detectors before.

i've bought carbon monoxide detectors with legit sensors and usable datasheets.
there is this MG series which offers sensors fit for use with an MC like arduino and the likes. They do Co2 and carbon monoxide as well. I was hesitant and bought the mh z14 because it uses infra red instead of a chemical compound.

I could reverse engineer a big brand product but its part of a larger project and i cant invest time in this microsituation.
I thought a sensor that gives out a value isnt asked too much but CO2 seems to be a different story.
Look for shit like Veris made ones. Output 4-20ma.

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Just purchased this vintage General Electric refrigerator, 'Made in England' , decided to go all the way stripping it down in hope of restoring it. Guess have done ample progress by now. After several attempts looking on the internet to find any info about it, couldn't find any at all. I even contacted general electric themselves and sent them pictures..as expected no reply at all. If anyone can figure out any information regarding year of manufacture and so on, please do share. since I haven't been able to find any yet. I...
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General Electric, and The General Electric Company a.k.a GEC were two completely separate companies.
shit.. didn't know that. so I contacted the wrong people..either why I'm still in doubt whether they'll ever reply since this is an old appliance of theirs. Thanks for the heads up! and should any one have any further contributions just toss them forward.
cannot find such info mate, about the existence of GEC. :/

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Hello /diy,
>I want to make magic wand like in Harry Potter with hidden remote control in it for gf
>it has to be from willow (according to celtic calendar her tree is willow, J.K.Rowling (autor of Harry Potter) chose wood for wands from celtic calendar for main characters)
>so I cut some branches like 2,5 - 4 cm (approximately 1" - 1,5") wide
>but it is fresh, juicy, wet wood, and I am afraid of curling and cracking of the wood, so my question...
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Heat of course, but ventilating the humidity is just as important. Might wanna tightly wrap the wands to straight, rigid sticks or they might warp.

Cracks can be a problem, especially at the endwood because moisture escapes faster there. Keep the sticks atleast a few cm longer than they will have to be so there's something to remove. Sealing the ends with glue or wax or something helps with split ends.

t. intermittent bowyer
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Dude, just make it out of a piece of pre-seasoned oak from your local lumber store. I absolutely promise you that your woman will not be able to tell what type of wood it's made out of. Sugar maple is an other good one for something like this.

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I bought a house and it's a few years old. I noticed that when I used the washer/dryer, it's stackable in a closet, it shakes a little. I put a level on it and noticed it was 2 degrees off. Not a problem, so I looked under the unit to adjust the little plastic legs and one wasn't there. Some one put a leg on one side but didn't on the other and they used folded cardboard to level it. I went to the appliance store and the guy had extras and gave me a some.

tl;dr How do I lift up a stackable washer/dryer to screw the leg in? It's heavy and in a...
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Wedge shit under it. I use books . Lift add lift add
Pretty much. Get some leverage action going, lift a bit, stuff something to take up the space, remove lever, repeat.
i built a shelf around it, separating the two halves, thus making it easier to handle. screwed two 5/8-inch thick pieces of wood to the walls on either side to act as legs, then slid a 1-inch thick piece underneath the dryer, resting on the side pieces (legs). took 2 people to do it, one to tilt the dryer back, the other to shove the shelf in.

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Why don't we have a moon base yet? Let's draw up some ideas and send them to those lazy bums at nasa. First things first, we'll need a toilet up there.
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>lazy bums at nasa
You are the lazy piece of shit who won't work harder and pay more taxes to give to nasa
You're the lazy piece of shit who didn't take the time to check out my tax records and see that I donated a gazillion simoleons to nasa in taxes already friendo
>mount a toilet upside down so the gravity doesn't make people shit on themselves

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Has anyone built these things before?
If then post some photos here and share your experience.
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kids do it yourself videos for play and learn

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Is there another video for telling namefag to fuck off?
Interesting topic anon. Have a bump.

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How feasible is building a hobbit home village in New Zealand
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How cheap is the land your buying? what is the water table of that land like? What heavy machines do you have access to?
Why did you make another thread for this

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Hello! For some reason, this RCA device I have outputs fucked up video- but only on this screen. On other monitors it's fine. I'd assume that it's just the screen that's busted, but the feed I'm using is shared by the backup camera and that works fine so that's not it. Any ideas?
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Feed is shared? How are you splitting the signal?
I'm going to be using a switch that changes the feeds when it gets current from the reverse lights (I'll admit that I'm much more software than hardware, so I don't know the exact switch that would do that but I'm confident it couldn't be that difficult).
Currently, the feed is only the raspberry pi with the camera totally wired out of the circuit
How are you feeding power to the pi? Using power from the vehicle or using external power?
Could be noise from the power source or that they both need to share a ground if you are using external power.

Hey guys,

Instead of replacing my car's dirty intake and cabin air filters, I'll just use compressed air to blow out the dirt and dust from the clean side out carefully, to remove all I can without tearing in the pleats. My intuition tells me that this would be effective for at least a few times but the filter mafia wants us throwing out perfectly usable filters to line their pockets.

Is my plan sound?
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for how cheap filters are you might as well just replace it
It works, same logic with all other types of filters, the manufacturer rely on people who dont know or wont clean their filters for their money so they dont promote it, so it never became a standard practice, but it works.
It works vs some particles that don't bond to the filter material, aka most of them. You can extend the life of your filter a lot but you should still replace it on occasion.

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Hey /diy/, anybody know anything about replacing the belt in an old tape deck?

Basically, I got this tape deck (free) so I could make some tapes to go in my car. I just got an older car and it still has a perfectly working tape deck, and I love the idea of using it with actual tapes in it. Anyway, so I got the tape deck and some blank tapes, but when I plugged it in I quickly found that the spindles don't turn in either side of the deck. So I took it apart, and the electronics appeared to be fine. Then I noticed some black gunk and realized that it was the old belt...
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Here is a picture pointing out the motor in the middle, and the spindles for both decks.
>rubber band
just, no - if, by some miracle, it started out with appro the right tension, wouldn't retain it very long - just going to slip, break,fall off, whatever.

Proper replacement actually cost you fuck all (literally, $1-$3) - need to know what size you are looking for (service manual for tape deck model if poss to find) or get a pack of various sizes (prob. about $15) ebay, whatever.
I found the service manual online as a $5 download, but hesitated to buy it unless I really need it. The tape deck is probably from the late 80's or early 90's. Even if I can find the manufacturer recommended replacement part, will they still make it 26 years later?

The thing is, I only need this thing to make a handful of tapes. I'm never going to use it for anything except copying music from my mp3 directory to the 5 or 6 blank tapes that I already have. Moreover, I just moved out of state and...
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please help
im really fucking sick and i clogged my toilet. In any other situation i would use the plunger but i barely have the strenght to stand up.
I have nobody to call for help so i bought some liquid plumber shit, only thing in the store thing is its designed for sinks, it states dump half the bottle wait 15 minutes and apply hot water, repeat if necesary, it removes grease, hair and other organics.
Is this safe for my toilet? should i apply less than half the bottle?
all i want to do is take a shit and sleep for two days
pic not related
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You are too sick to use a plunger so Instead you go to the store and make a thread. Your fucking dumb.
i dont understand, please help or i will soil myself and sleep on my own shit because i dont have any alternative
Odd are it's lye, you don't want to put that in a toilet. It will generate heat and can crack the porcelain, plus there is a splash danger (you think you feel like shit /now/ add in some nice chemical burns).

Plunger or snake is the way to go.

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This thing stopped steaming so drained some water to waste, any idea how to add water back, the low water light keeps turning on?
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water level
Other side
Open the supply line valve.

Trace the incoming water from the main water line.

You probably shouldn't be touching a boiler if you don't know what you're doing.

Sup, /diy/

I'm making a device to scare off moles. The idea is to have a vibrating component attached to a PVC pipe, which should amplify the vibrations, stick it in the ground and let it work its magic.

Right now I'm at the electronic part. I was thinking of an astable multivibrator which will drive a vibrator module I got from an old phone, with pots for pause and vibration duration control. Pic related

The transistors will be 2n3904, capacitors 1mF, R1 and R4 470 Ohm resistors, R2 a 1kOhm resistor and a 2.5MOhm trimmer pot in series, for pause duration control, and R3 again a 1kOhm resistor and a 15kOhm trimmer pot for vibration duration control.

Any reasons this wouldn't work? Any tips?
Also, what voltage should I power this with?
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>vibrating module from old phone

Fuck that OP, get a Hitachi Magic Wand, attach it to a metal stake, ram that stake into the ground (the earth is a dirty slut, she wants it) and shock & awe those little burrowing rodents
Your circuit is notorious for touchiness.
Most of the time it will work but if you change the load usually it will fuck up.
Try simulating it, I have never seen it simulated first time because it relies on imperfections.
An alternative would be a 555 timer circuit.
If you want to learn build both. If you just want your problem solved then don't build either because your plan is insane.
In theory the supply voltage would match whatever motor you used however if it draws too much current you will...
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smoke bombs
shotgun (or a pellet gun for residential areas)

DIY Lords,

I'm looking for some nut drivers (I think that's how they're commonly referred now), I've known them as tek bits also.

Basically 1/4 bits for an impact driver, for hex headed screws.

I have many that are magnetic, a little magnet in the centre of the bit to retain the screw.

I had one that I'd like to replace, it was in my drill case when it was stolen. It didn't have a magnet and was for stainless steel screws, it basically had a metal ring around the outside that acted like a spring clip to hold the screw...
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MAKITA B-28569
Are these available in anything other than M8 do you know? I could do with 7 and 6 mm also.

Thanks btw.
I'm not sure mate. I only use 8mm / 5/16" .

Maybe email Makita, they'll probably tell you of a dealer close to you.

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Do these actually work and last for more then a few melts?
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I have prefab one at home, been using it for the last 10 years, here in east europe they sell them for around $ 40 new, you can melt almost any metal with them, things like bronze are easy peasy and if you want to work with steel etc, still okeish it gets it pink hot, a lot of electricity consumption tho, which gets to the point that you are asking for the gas powered ones, that I have no experience with, but they will work for sure, its up to you to keep the maintenance right and take good care of it.
why wouldn't they, the concept is the same as any other foundry you could make or buy
Thanks, we are talking about thousand degree fires here so I wanted to be sure it was safe.

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So I have read a bunch of books on door construction and I have finally come up with my own design for a somewhat sound proof door (RwDB=40db).

My idea was to glue a frame of 27mm or 18mm plywood (=VP(blue)) onto a sheet of 18mm VP. The recess in the center would be filled with 27mm/18mm MDF (brown), followed by another layer of 18mm VP. A mitered frame of mdf would then be glued around the edges of the sandwich, which should allow for profiling of the doors edges, without affecting the finish. Sheets of 4mm MDF would then be glued to both sides of the door, so that a...
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Good luck soundproofing the gap between the door and the frame which needs to be there so you get enough "fresh" air into the room to sustain life.
look up double leaf problem, soundproof green glue company did a writeup on it

What are you talking about? Gaps on soundproof doors are generally closed by 3 layers of seals on the sides and top, while there is also an integrated seal on the bottom of the door, which only lowers to touch the floor if the door is closed.

That stuff about sustaining life is complete bullcrap. Ever heard of diffusion? Unless you are living in an air baloon, then you are right ofc.

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Hey /diy/, I was wondering if anyone had any experience with ordering samples of components online, like from Texas Instruments or other manufacturers. Do you need to be a part of a company, or do they just send to anyone who requests one?

I ask because I need to get a bunch of different components for testing reasons, but I'd rather not spend $3-$15 dollars for each one when I'm not sure which one I'll end up using in the end. I'm trying to replace some 7805 linear regulators with some switching regulators to cut down on heat. I thought about building...
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Different companies have different rules. TI actually tightened their rules a while ago because of beggars misused the samples service.
I've ordered samples in the past. They won't ship you anything if you have a Gmail address. They have to believe that you work for a company that is considering incorporating their parts in to your product. If you have a private email address and you say that you are evaluating parts for a new design then they will likely send you 3 of whatever you want. Sometimes they have an online request form (I think Fairchild used to) and sometimes you have to email or call one of their sales reps.

It worked...
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Damn, I was worried about that. Guess I'll just bite the bullet and buy some 2574's. Thanks for the help folks.

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I have a bunch of antique equipment in cabinets. Many of them have locks like pic related but are missing the keys.

What is the proper name for a flat metal key like this?

Bonus question: Any good tutorials on making new keys to fit the locks?
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half mortise cabinet lock
no special name for the key - it's a key
keys would be difficult to make unless the lock can be disassembled
if lock comes apart you can determine how to cut the key to match
>if lock comes apart

I was hoping not to take them apart. They are riveted (or peened) together and I'm afraid one dissassebly might be the end of the lock.

A few boards have suggested making a flat key blank, sticking it in and wiggling it to get the internal warding (I think it's called) to mark the blank. Problem is: The keys are steel and the locks are brass. So there are not clear marks left.
Paint/color the key blank before wiggling?

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Hey guys so I want to make a VR headset somehow, for video games, I don't have money so I can't buy one, I do have 2 monitors though, is it possible to just somehow fix something up somehow so they will be un magnified and appear as small and somehow get that to my eyes? I've never done a DYI project before so wondering, is there anything I should buy for this?
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one way screws and crab meat
I built one that works pretty well. Based it off this http://www.instructables.com/id/OpenVR-Opensource-Rift-for-only-150/

I used his tracking system, 3D printed my own body because I used a slightly larger and higher res screen, got some lenses from my local surplus store (no idea why they carried those), and use Vireio Perception as the software.

Works pretty well actually. The screen door effect isn't too bad, and the tracking is surprisingly responsive and accurate. Im planning to make another one soon, using a very expensive screen from some chinese company, and a whole new headset, because this one is huge and uncomfortable.

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So, /diy/ I need a bit of help.

See, I'm working on a boat I bought a while back and the interior was pretty deteriorated because the last owner had put some kind of cover with glue and now it was falling.

I plan to put a new cover but I don't know what to put there. And waorse yet, I don't know how to put it there, my father (who's working with me on it) has suggested using some kind of plastic cover and just cutting it as we put it there, but I was thinking about getting the piece (or pieces) that I need already cut and prepared to fit in...
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Here's a pic of the part I need to cover
Your pictures are horrible. Are you talking about a headliner on the ceiling to pretty up the glass hull?
I'll take better pictures tomorrow, I'm talking about the ceiling itself

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I'm getting a door knocker like pic related for my father's birthday, how do I know what to look for when it comes to size? What measurements do I need to take?

I already have one with the previous family name on it but would like to know if the holes already on the door will fit the new one.
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Do you honestly need to make thread just because you want to screw something to your door?

> how do I know what to look for when it comes to size?
Use common sense. Look at the door and try to find something that will fit style and size.
> What measurements do I need to take?
measure width to find center of the door. Then knock on the door. The point in which you hit to knock on the door will be your hight.
Holy shit are you retarded
I build houses for a living, so I can help you OP. Replacing a door knocker is one of the hardest remodeling tasks there is. It is harder than replacing a granite counter top, for example. I recommend that you hire a professional and be sure to ask for references that are specific to his ability to replace a door knocker, and don't just call, but visit them to see the proof. If he is for real, he will have photographs and perhaps video of him showing the job from start to finish.

A front door is the most important part of a house. You would not install braces on...
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why do my t-shirts shrink? is it the washing or the drying?

is there a way to reshape them, or just throw them away and get more?

they go wide and short
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heat shrinks cotton and some other fabrics

wash them in cold water, then hang them up to dry, or dry in dryer until still damp and hang up to finish drying. You could try to reshape and stretch them with a steam iron, but you won't the original shape.
It's the drying, but the real reason is cheap manufacturing. The knit fabric is stretched lengthwise when it is produced on the rollers, and unless the maker preshrinks the fabric before cutting and sewing, it will always shrink lengthwise and get wider. The only remedy is spend more money and go with name brands.
Duluth Trading, for example.

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I've got a pile of thermal pane glass that I ordered with the wrong grills.
Any ideas on what to make with it?
Could make a green house I geuss..
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What size are they?
40*40" ish
Or 30*30
Top pic is related. My profit on this job is like Evelyn.

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How to put flat legged component s on a breadboard vertically such as pic related?
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bend them?
turn the breadboard?
If the pins won't fit in the breadboard, don't force it. Just cut a little bit of lead off of some resistors and solder them to the legs of your component. Then plug it in in whatever orientation you like.

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Hi /diy/, i am about to invest ~$20,000 or less in building a commercial greenhouse on a virgin plot of land in Alaska.

it needs to be around 2,500 square feet. i'll be using automated fan systems attached to thermometers, coupled with well-placed ventilation in sides and roof to cool the greenhouse and provide adequate air flow.

my biggest design problem at this time has to do with heating and cooling. how to design the greenhouse so that i don't end up with pockets of hot and cold air? how to keep it uniform? once you get over a certain square footage,...
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Most large greenhouses do what you're describing, with fans every 7 feet or so on the side walls.

For winter heating you'll probably want to go with something reliable. I've seen commercial greenhouses use basically oversized radiators stretched along the walls. Maybe work out something like that where you pump hot water into a radiator.
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Alaska isn't the best place to greenhouse due dark/cold autums-winters-spring. The cooling part is somewhat easy, large commercial greenhouses uses evaporate cooling, which is cheap. You can buy these supercheap from alibaba.com
You may want to look into chinese style greenhouses
They use an earth or brick wall to the north that adds insulation and thermal mass, so you have a longer grow season.
They usually have automated isolation covers for the nights, so the temperature stays up.

You can supplement the thermal mass by adding water containers in front of the north wall.
Bonus point for using them to grow fish and establish a aquaponic system.

For heating and light, you have several options.
Energy from the grid will cost you big time.
Solar will be mainly there, when you have enough light anyways, so you would need a big battery bank, that will be expensive.
A small scale hydro electric turbine could supply you with sufficient, reliable electricity run a big number of grow lamps, if you have a suitable stream nearby.
A biogas reactor can supply a gas powered generator which in turn produces electricity for lights, heat and even CO2
You can also build a rocket mass heater and use wood for fuel.

Another possibility is building a passive solar greenhouse adding isolated thermal mass underground and heating it up by pumping hot air from the top of the greenhouse inside, whenever the sun is heating up the air in your greenhouse.

Your air inlet should be going through a long pipe buried underground, so the air is preheated in winter and cooled in summer by the ambient temperature of the earth.

I wish you all the best with your project! Keep us updated!

File: 20160713_153603.jpg (4 MB, 4160x2340) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
4 MB,
Hey diy.need some ideas to trigger a spark.i need to build something garden related to fill this aesthetic gap in my back stairs.the "hole" is about 3.5 x 3.5.im going to build a deck here so i need to incorporate that into/around it eventually.im thinking stair planters,maybe a garden box.i have 3 days off,tools and lots of scrap wood and hardware.im googling but not getting inspiration.any suggestions?
8 replies and 3 images submitted. Click here to view.
And fine,ill spend some of my time off figuring out how to rotate pics properly.
File: led-bench.jpg (10 KB, 250x157) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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You have untreated wood touching the ground there you degenerate, fix that first.

File: Circuit.jpg (39 KB, 800x383) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
39 KB,
I just set this up and it works fine but I get some juice where I shouldn't. I haven't tried plugging to the grid yet, but when I switch on the batteries I read something like 1 volt in the red&black wires that I'm supposed to plug to the grid. If I touch the red wire with my finger I can feel a tiny bit of current, although I'm isolated from the ground. What is this faggotry ? All the connections are made with electrical tape which is kind of lame, but there's no short circuit as far as I can tell.

Plz halp
8 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
It seems that it might be because it's a switch with a pilot light. Fucking shit. Is this safe ?
>I just set this up and it works fine
>All the connections are made with electrical tape
> Fucking shit. Is this safe ?

You shouldn't be touching anything you tie into the grid anytime soon.

File: javascript.jpg (152 KB, 600x300) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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I need to create a software using Structured systems analysis and design method (SSADM), what class of software recommend me to create in one month?.

i have knowledge in Python and SQL

i'm just an amateur in the software development and this is my first time programming a software
4 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.

SSADM sucks, use RUP

usually these kinds of exercises involve some sort of host-client type of thing, involving many interfaces and modules, so I suggest you make a website or something, such as a simple social media platform or shopping site.

JS front end, Python back end, and SQL database.
I am forced to use (Ssadm), because it is for a damn class
You might have better luck over on >>>/g/ about this, that's where the programmers hang out.

I'm not familiar with the SSADM model unfortunately, and I don't know what sort of scope you're looking at for the project. I'm going to guess small to medium since it's for a class.

Maybe a media organiser, e.g. search by tag, mime type (with wildcard e.g. video/* for all videos in the database), keep a list of folders (spec'd...
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