I need advice on buying a tool. A tool that no one likes to use. I need a new vacuum cleaner.
I live in a house with a Labrador Retriever, low pile carpeting, wood floors and a lot of foot traffic. I need a vacuum cleaner that can pick up shit on bare floors and pull out dog hair that in embedded in carpet. This is the current vacuum I have and its brush is useless so it just rolls right over the dog hair. Any recommendations?
I picked up a shark navigator a year or two ago and I'm pretty impressed with it. I only have 3 rooms with carpet and it works amazingly on those but it's even better on my hardwood floors. I've recently used the attachments for the first time on my vehicles and they're pretty handy for tight spots.
Only bad thing I have to say about it is hair got caught in the roller once and I had to clean that out. But that happens with all vacuums that I've had and it took less than 5 minutes. I have a cat and a dog btw.
Uhh, instead of using a vaccuum, save money & go to Dollarama & but duct tape & use tape on ur carpet takes alot more out then a vaccuum & it doesnt wreck ur carpet nor does it leave messy patterns its a great diy lmao
So I'm doing yard work for a guy and he wants me to get a bunch of dead grass out and make the lawn just dirt (pic related) any one got a good way to do this easily? Right now the best I've found is to just take a weed Wacker to it all to get it down to dirt. That ident working to well either. Any advice would help
>>943061 What does he want the ground to look like after? I just take a rototiller on its shallowest setting to it. It would bust up the top inch or two of soil and make it easy to remove the grass and roots.
I've been contemplating for a while the possibility of making an Eames Lounge Chair at home. I have one of those shitty office chairs for my daily use and it sucks. A gentleman like me, gracefully living with his parents, deserves a better seating, don't you think?
A couple months ago I started thinking more seriously about making it and I went and found some stuff showing disassembled chairs and schematics and all.
I've never bent wood, so I would need some advice on that. Also, the metal parts that join the back panels to the seating,... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
What I meant by economically viable is probably not possible without a corporate budget.
Plus for long flight times a multirotor is the worst choice because it's terrible inefficient which is why no-one has built one with a reasonably long flight time, lrn2 helicopter if you want longer flight times.
I was going to take out this closet to put in a bigger vanity, I discovered the post on the corner has been sistered. I wasn't expecting it as the wall the closet opens from seems to be structural too. Is there any other reason those studs would've been doubled?
So I have a drone with 3.7v/500mAh battery, which lasts about 5 minutes. I want to connect it to DC power, but the fucking Chinese power source I ordered is broken and only let's me adjust the Volts. What kind of power source do I need and where can I get one?
I've got an old cabinet door, with 35mm holes drilled partially thorough for integrated hinges, that look vaguely like this.
After fitting a new washing machine, I found that the old hinge locations no longer match up, so I need to drill new holes. This wouldn't be an issue, but the new holes would be close enough to the old ones for one of the top/bottom screws to fall within the area the old holes are, where there's now no longer any door for them to screw into.
So I need something to fill in these already very smooth holes, and provide enough... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
mix sawdust with some wood glue until its a paste... fill holes. let dry 24 hours. proceed to drill new holes. the glue and sawdust will actually be stonger than the wood and you should be able to put screws in without worry
>>942898 This seems like it's intended for small drill holes, I'm talking about a very large 35mm hole that needs to be at least partially filled.
>>942901 This is slightly more promising, but I'm not convinced that wood glue can set hard enough without any pressure hard enough.
I'm thinking if I drill some smaller holes around the circumference of the hole, that'll help whatever chunk of stuff I put in to stand up to the rigors of being... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Hey guys /Gg/ here, I asked about this on /mu/ but there was no useful replies. How would I go about refinishing my sonic blue mustang to this custom 1966 custom Sparkle color? What would be a good step by step including > best way to strip original paint > spray paint or actual paint > lacquer or nitrocellulose > best spray companies and colors > could I make my own sparkle color with glitter and a shiny/metallic blue?... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>1. Take off all removable parts. From what I can tell that would be nearly everything that isn't blue or wood.
>2. Get some fine and rough sanding paper sheets. Use the rough one to remove all paint, then the fine one to smooth the surface. Remove all sawdust afterwards.
>3. Hang up the guitar and mask everything you don't want to paint. Use white spray foundation as a primer and apply one layer. After it has dried, apply one layer of your chosen paint,... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Heatgun and a scraper for the paint removal. Trust me, sanding it off will take forever. Once the bulk of the paint is off you'll have to sand the primer off with some 80 grit, then once clean work your way up to 220. Make 100% sure you don't make any dips or anything while sanding. Keep it flat.Your paint job is only as good as your prep job.
Spray it with new primer. Then flat sand everything all over again once dry. Prep.
As for painting a lot of us use automotive paints and sprayers. Lightly sand between... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
First time poster here, i found out that ive seen more and more people that spend a lot of time in their computers (mostly for entretainment) that usually have either a race car seat as an office chair or an office chair inspired by its design and materials, so i took up on google to figure out why, but all i could find were websites that sold them.
I dont even know if this is the right board, since there is no furniture board, but if anyone knows, why is it that race car bucket seats are becoming the new high-end office chairs? is there any particular reason or something?
>>942839 Hey mate i did it, it was out of necessity as my old office chair was all torn up and falling apart. So i had 2 seats laying around for a car im building and used 1 of em for my office chair. Havent got a pic on my phone but used an isotta talladega seat, came up really nice.
After about 10 years of use I decided to give my digital piano a "service" by taking out all the keys, cleaning them (lots of fluff, a fair bit of tobacco and even some drink splashes) and then re-greasing the mechanisms. I didn't have proper grease so I used Vaseline.
The keys feel nicer to the touch now but some keys sound significantly louder than others for the same level of pressure.
Looking at the MIDI velocities it produces verifies that some keys are more sensitive than others.
My question is how could I go about fixing it? What could I have done to make them inconsistent?
The pressure sensing system is simply a rubber dome with two conductors - one slightly longer than the other so it makes a connection first. It then measures the time between the first and second contact for the velocity.
I don't see how I could have interfered with that, so I'm guessing it's the physical keys (and the dummy hammers, etc, that give it the weighted feel).
Any ideas? It's driving me up the wall, what with certain notes sticking out like a sore thumb every time.
I thought about making an Arduino powered device that compensates the MIDI velocities directly, correcting the appropriate velocity bytes by consulting a table (that I'd have to generate myself, mostly through trial and error), but I'd rather make the keys respond uniformly like they used to.
is it a p60? the rubber contact strips are in groups (AFAIK) - If you had a range of 5 keys in a row that are responding differently, swap that strip (cheap) - if its non uniform/scattered - dunno. but the velocity measurement does come from the rubber dome/strips, as you noted.
tl;dr: Any suggestions on leaded solder that doesn't smell like shit?
I've been using the roll of solder on the right for basically my whole life. My dad used the same stuff growing up, and he gave this to me when I moved out; it has to be at least 20 years old. Maybe it's just because I grew up with it, but the smoke actually smells pretty good.
I ran out recently and started using the roll on the left. It works fine, but it smells fucking awful. I start getting headaches if I solder for too long. I should probably set up a solder fume extractor... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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