Hey /diy/ 2 year plumbing apprentice here What kind of software can I use to model piping systems? For the most part the stuff I have been dealing with in my apprenticeship has been babby repair stuff you would typically see here on /diy/, but there have been some complicated affairs, such as a complex area drain for a backyard pool that had multiple tiers making it very difficult to get our snake in without camera inspection and huge water heater/re-circulating systems. I would be very interested in any kind of way to provide a 3d model of these systems for our customers.... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1020112 Blender and Maya are not appropriate software for technical drawings. Autocad is not good for 3D. Solidworks is good for piping systems. I used it for powerplant design. The problem is SolidWorks is not intended for architectural systems, and also the models can get very slow when they get very large unless you know how to configure the parts and assemblies to mitigate this.
Autodesk Revit would probably be considered the gold standard for AEC 3d cad. There are lots of other lighter, cheaper, less integratabtle,... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1019563 There's a reason lag bolts aren't sold in bulk and are expensive. It's because the average consumer doesn't need them in bulk so it would not be profitable to try and sell them that way. If you're building a porch and are attaching the frame to the house you only need 8 or so lag bolts, not a box of 100. Because they don't sell them in bulk they mark up the prices to make up the difference so they can still turn a profit. Ebay is probably your best bet in this case, good luck
In socal we have enough industry that there are specialized 'screw and bolt' hardware vendors that that is all they sell, and will sell to consumers for no real deal, you just need to walk in and place an order.
So I ended up doing the acetone/spare plastic Putty mixture because I figure it'd literally become one with the plastic around it. Applied it in thin, spacled coats, drying for a couple of days, sanding down in between, and applying more as necessary. My problem now is that, I guess the putty had some air in it, so now the resulting surface is very porous and full of tiny pin holes. I want to prime and paint this thing, but those holes need taken care of first. How do I best go about filling in these holes and making a 100% smooth surface?
I'm trying to add a remote switch to my speaker system. To do this, I found pic related, a remote controlled switch. The issue is, I want to still be able to use a physical switch on the unit to turn it on and off. If I use this module, it will completely replace that.
So I want to for example; switch on with physical switch, switch off with remote.
How can I do this? Any modules available? Or is there some electronic trickery to do this I do not yet know of?
you need to keep the remote unit ON to be able to use the main switch
an other way would be getting an EE/hobbyst etc. opening up your system and installing a custom solution which places a custom logic instead of the on/off switch. It is not complicated for an EE/hobbyst (its like 10 lines if code on a uC or you can even get it down to logic gates or even opamp comparator level although nowadays these would be more expensive than a 1$ uC) but their hourly wages are probably too high
OP you want an "exclusive or" gate as you described.
XOR outputs a signal if, and only if, one input signal is true. If both signals are off or on then the output is false.
Open up your unit. Wire up the wireless switch onto an appropriate rail from the power supply. Wire the output of the wireless gate into an XOR IC. Unsolder the power switch output from... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
hey guys, im making a bluetooth speaker, made a box for it out of plywood sanded it pretty good, but now im strugling to choose what im doing with it, should i stain the wood should i make decoupage(or whatever its called) or anything else, and if anyone has any sugestions on how to varnish plywood would be much appreciated, last time i did it on plywood it all just went "into" the wood and there was no "shiny" to it, i dont know if and how i need to prep it before warnishing, and sorry for bad english :D
So CTE is blowing up. Everybody knows about it now, and ok, now we can do something about it. These people are losing their minds, and it's time to come up with a remedy.
What causes brain trauma? The brains inability to cope with outside forces due to the design of the brain/skull. How do we solve this? By creating something that can reduce the force of the...outside force. How do we soften the blow?
Maybe if I was a chemist I could come up with a drug that wouldn't allow this devil protein to take over the brain, but I'm not, so I've come... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1020748 Avoid the time and door locking required for conventional self-clean ovens. Steam Clean allows for quick cleaning of minor food spills at temperatures lower than the standard self-clean feature. Simply pour 1 cup of water into the bottom of a cool oven. Close the door and select Steam Clean. The cycle lasts about 30 minutes, and loosens and softens the grime in the oven. Once the cycle is complete, wipe out the moisture and food soils with a soft cloth. Because Steam Clean uses a lower temperature, the oven door does... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1020592 >cheap optics It would help if you had said what country/area you were in.
I am in the USA, and get cheap optics from Surplus Shed. They have a website and sell surplus items of all kinds but mostly optics and vintage camera stuff.
If I want *good* optics, there is Edmund Optics,,, but bring a credit card, because they aint cheap. A "cheap" 25mm simple lens can cost $50, and a higher-grade one the same size with a good AR coating can cost $125 or more.
Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
While messing around with the new tail light setup I put on my car, I broke this little ground tab off. What's the best way to reattach it while still maintaining a good electrical connection? I tried superglue, but that didn't hold. Is there some sort of epoxy that would work well for this?
They make conductive glues but that's not the method I'd use. I would prefer to use a screw going through that eyelet into whatever it needs to ground to. Or solder if I absolutely had to. Can you get a pic of the other side of the assembly?
>>1020237 >>1020239 Don't have any other pictures of it at the moment. The tab was attached by what looked like 2 very small solder points. The part that I'm pinching between my fingers is I guess the male part of it. I crimped a female connector onto the wire that I used for the ground, and that's what is used to make the connection.
so i'm a fuckin idiot who used an impact to tighten a belt pulley idler bolt. it completely destroyed the threads. last night i had amazon ship me aluminum epoxy, and a 14mm tap. what is my best plan of action? i was wondering if i could slab the epoxy in there, lube up my bolt, put it in, leave in for 2 hrs, then carefully unscrew the bolt and be left woth perfect threads? doubt this would work, just hop8ng it would. otherwise, i assume ill have to slab the epoxy in there, and use the tap to create new threads, which idk how it would go.
p.s. idc if the bolt... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I want to use an old scissor jack to make a rudimentary press. I have some scrap ~1.5" diameter, 1/8" thick steel pipe that I'll be welding into a rectangle to make the frame.
What I'm not sure about is how to fit the sides for maximum strength. Should I use saddle joints in tension (1) or shear (2), or should I just miter the corners (3)? If it makes any difference I'd be using a harbor freight flux cored wire machine. Thanks for any advice.
>>1020030 First thing to do would be to determine the pressure your press would see. Then determine a safety factor for design and see if the surface area of your schedule 20 our whatever pipe would sufficiently withstand that pressure. To calculate this you would determine the total cross section area of the pipe wall and the tensile stress of the material if known. If not known you could just use 40k for carbon steel.
>>1020030 Also I would go with the saddle style fit-up just as a personal preference. You may also look at attaching strong back to the press to prevent deflection vertically of needed. Not sure still what pressure you would be looking at. I successful made a press/punch out of some scrap I-beam years ago and successfully punched 13/16" hole through 3/16 plate. This was powered by a bottle jack. Good luck.
Alright, my sister is moving back home, and we share an air duct, and she has really sensitive hearing and will complain about my tv being too loud even though it seems quiet to me. Is there anyway to sound proof my ducts or stop sound from traveling through them?
It's not a problem blocking the air or heat because I have a separate heater/ air conditioner that solely blows into my room through a separate unit that was installed after the duct work was.
How can I stopped sound from traveling up and through it into her room so she can have her peace and I... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
This is also a classic point of contention between old and newschool welders.
I think it would help for sure, but a welding mask is designed to protect your eyes from a blinding light the size of maybe a golfball and I would imagine the flash from a flash bang is a whole lot bigger?
>>1019646 You'll want a cheap pan scrubber, the scrubby side you use when washing dishes and a pot I'd citric acid crystals, like £5 for a kilo on eBay/Amazon etc.
Scrub the loose rust, submerge in warm water with a spoon full of citric acid. Wait an hour, scrub again, rinse, repeat until it's shiny clean. This is the most gentle way I know.
Warning: when you remove the meal from the water it will start visibly rusting again within 30 seconds. So either submerge again after rinsing it dry immediately.... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1019628 >Will large hooks drilled into the wall fuck up my studs or something when we both go in it? Yes. Studs aren't made to take large lateral loads like that. With big enough hooks, it might not pull out immediately, but I'm guessing you don't want to use the hammock like it's made of eggshells.
So here's what you do: You make an independent frame to hold the hammock, one that's actually made to resist the forces involved. See pic related for a nicer... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
So /diy/, probably the stupidest fucking thread you'll come across today How do I actually make this? Gather a bunch of sticks from outside, Glue them together with PVA glue then spray-paint if required? My wall is boring to look at
>>1019553 Quick drying JB Weld would speed things up and it's paintable. The one with the yellow/black tubes. But to be honest my first impressions of what you posted even from the home page thumbnail was that it doesn't look good, it looks tacky. Like some shitty art piece a student did so they had to hang it up for a few months in a school because muh creativity then promptly threw it away. Not trying to be a dick, just want to give you a heads up that if you spend all that time on this it won't look good to most people. There's a reason you don't see this design anywhere, sorry bro :-/ Kudos for trying to be creative tho
One of the screws holding my glasses together, by the end piece, keeps coming loose. I'm assuming I could use loctite or some other thread-locking product to stop this from happening, but I don't have any on hand, and I kind of doubt I'll be needing it in quantity anytime soon. Plus I'm kind of broke.
Any cheap-ass substitutions? Superglue, nail varnish, whatever?
using glue in a situation like this, where the area is so small, is hopeless. a paper clip, bent into a loop will last forever. tho it'll get rusty after a few years, so you'll have to replace it. i got some thin stainless steel hobby wire, for making bracelets and such, and it's lasted over 4 years looking good as new.
Is there a faster way of evaporating ultra sonic soap, for precious metals refining and diamond recovery after its powderized? It has been sitting at the same level in this metal bucket for almost a year.
>>1019345 Most soaps/detergents are usually non-volatile, so probably not. It it's urgent to recover the leavings, I'd say centrifuge the goo (or just carefully decant as best you can after the bucket has settled).
Before doing one myself (out of plywood), does anyone know if something like this is commercially available? Something like this = a rack (that probably looks like a bike parking rack) that allows you to store tool cases standing up, side by side making storage and identification easier that just storing them like books on a shelf (for example) or one on top of the other. I know this is a diy board but I'm lazy and I'd prefer to buy one already made
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