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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 82. page
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Alright, so I just lost an auction for a large satellite dish I was going to convert into a parabolic mirror, and there probably aren't going to be any going up on auction for a while.
Does /diy/ know any techniques for making one other than making a satellite dish shiny and chrome?

Pic unrelated, and probably not edible gummy candy.
15 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
Is revolving a big drum of fluid out of the question?
If I can find a drum I don't see why I can't revolve it.
Like, I have eclectic drills and stuff, and other things that spin.
But no, I'm not going to revolve it on a permanent basis, wouldn't even work since I have to track the sun.

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First question: Can I get some bricks and build a raised bed like pic related? Taking advantage from the preexisting walls to need less bricks? After I fill them with soil and the plants develop roots I believe the moisturizer level raises, will this give me infiltration problem in the walls or it is too little water for such a thing? Should I give a little space between the wall and the beds?

Second: Can I make a pond the same way? Maybe using a plastic sheet inside?
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One of the standard ways to prevent something like this messing up your drainage is to dig 1-2 feet down, put down plastic sheeting on tamped earth at an angle, with the part against the wall attached a few inches higher than the start of the ramp, then fill with soil.
As long as the soil has good drainage (which it should, since nothing grows in clay anyway) then it'll be fine.
moisture against exterior walls is fine, it's water pooling against them (both on the surface and underground) that causes foundation...
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>As long as the soil has good drainage (which it should, since nothing grows in clay anyway)

Maybe I am missing something here, but clay does not have good drainage.

just leave a brick out, or put a drainline in a hole in the brick wall. Dig out all your shit soil like clay/ heavy rocks. Fill the bottom with 4 inches of 3/4 process or gravel. If it's small don't worry about infiltration/moisture levels unless it's mold tier. Get plants that are fucking hearty. Also with pond, take a shitload of news papers, wet them down, and paper mache the liner for your pond and put very thick black plastic over it. You need 4- 6inches of newspaper.

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whenever turned on it displays randomly changing numbers, occasionally stopping on something but then continues randomly changing numbers.

I opened it up and was greeted by what i would classify as gore. I dont know where to start. the display tube has an odd black spot on one end, i suspect that to be a burn mark of sorts. (pic2)

The board at the bottom has an odd wire going seemingly randomly. i have no fucking clue what that is supped to be. (pic3)

wat do?
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>an odd black spot on one end
That's a getter. It's not a problem.
I'd check the keypad and its wiring first and tried to clean it if it were filthy.

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I want to rig up a little light that will power on when the water level gets low in a tank.

I want it to run from a battery and to light a small led or something.

If I used this sensor from amazon what else would I need to make it work ?

5 replies and 3 images submitted. Click here to view.
If its possible I would like to use cr123 batteries to power a small led because I have so many extra of those.

I was looking for some kind of small light I could connect it to that would flash or not use much power.

Something like this fake car alarm


And then wire it in like shown in this vid


I cant tell if the LED in that device...
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they teach this stuff int the 4-th grade, dude. are you an 8-yo dropout?
Ya I understand the circuit.

I think I am going to get some of these LED's, the listing says they flash and blink and they need 12 volt dc


I will wire up a bunch of my cr123's till I get 12 volts and make the circuit.

I am guessing it will not really need all 12 volts to make them blink. Maybe 9 will do.

The fake car alarm one I showed...
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Any experience diying hammocks? It seems like gathered-end hammocks are the simplest to create. What kind of material would you recommend that is easily accessible? Tarp?

How about suspension? Could I get away with using cam locks?
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i got a hammock from my sister
our uncle built us swings out of scaffolding poles
the top bar had bolts so i decided the bolts would be perfect to hang the hammock from
because of the legs i had to have one swing at 90 degrees to the other.
as soon as i sat in it the swing toppled over and nearly crushed me to death
the swing was heavy, took 3 people to lift it
landed on a lawnmower and fucking annihilated it
so just be careful i guess is the message.
LOL. Thanks for the advice!
For all the best info go over to hammock forums. TONS of diy shit there. The guys there really know their stuff and have come up with some brilliant solutions . The only metal on my suspension are some aluminium clips they call "dutch clips" for the straps that go around the tree. Everything else is static knots that never get undone, or various splices.

Dyneema rope is your friend. Unless you're a featherwight I strongly suggest using the 1/8"rope over the 7/64. It just feels sturdier to lie...
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How to build a small scale wind turbine?
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How to use Google?
>How to build a small scale wind turbine?

Step 1-
"Invent small scale wind"....
How small?

For building a wind turbine you need some magnets, copper wire, and metal/plastic/wood for building the blades, stand, and mounting.

Small scale won't get you much though. You will also need to get it up high into the air to get decent average wind speeds. Just putting it on a roof of a house isn't high enough.

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Hi /diY/, /tg/ here. I need your help gathering some tradecraft information and in a broader sense to play spy with gadgets.

There is a game where you play a secret agent against Yog-Sothery. It is called Delta Green and just got its new edition kickstarted and will be released next year. But we cannot wait, we need to play it now.

One of the major points is bringing the 90s setting into the present, and boy have things changed.

Now don't go all 007 on me just yet. These agents are not always fully licensed so to say, and while sometimes they can rely...
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Here's what the cops have to track cell phones with.

FYI, you can get drones from Walmart now.

The NSA leaks included information about an actual catalog of electronic surveillance devices that operatives could order. Presumably there's a lab in some basement in Washington that just churns them out. And that was years ago.

These things are pretty terrifying, and almost certainly used widely by spooks and sophisticated criminals

Laser microphones have a similar "you can't hide" feeling.

Don't forget that your imaginary spooks will need HUMINT to find their targets--gadgets...
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I need to crush about 10 kilos of iron pyrite and get it into a fine powder, a little bit finer than sand. What kind of service or machine should I be looking for? I tried "rock milling" and "rock crushing", but most of these machines are too big for what I need. I tried "rock powdering" but most of my search results are for making crack cocaine instead...
10 replies and 3 images submitted. Click here to view.
I'd buy some crack OP, how much you want?
ball mill
cement mixer, steel balls, duct tape, ear plugs.

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this might sound a bit anal but here goes
i'm building a uv lightbox for pcbs
i have the tubes, scavenged hf electric ballasts and fittings, some old greenhouse glass which i hope isn't restrictive to uva, some kitchen foil for covering the insides and enough ply to make a box.

the question i have:
is there a good way to work out the spacing of the tubes to avoid hot and cold spots?

I have tried toner transfer before and it was pretty much a week of my life i will never get back so i'm trying to get this as perfect as possible so i don't...
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Really, the only quick and easy way is to use an engineer with extensive knowledge of the lights you're using. The long and tedious way is to try it with the lights evenly spaced, then try to burn a test pcb with that set up. If you're not happy with it move the lights closer together and add a light or move them farther apart and subtract one.
>some old greenhouse glass which i hope isn't restrictive to uva
The vast majority of common glass is restrictive to UVA.
I probably lost a week of my life trying toner transfer too. Then I gave it one last shot using a different printer and all of a sudden it worked beautifully. I quickly learned that the brand of printer and toner is the single largest variable in the equation.

Brother is a definite no. Most Dells seem to work well. HP tends to work too. Use the absolute cheapest photo paper you can find, the cheaper the better. Always print high quality, and if there is a special setting in the driver like 'make blacks blacker' then turn it on.

tl;dr toner transfer does...
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I'm just finishing up my latest project A midi laser harp based on this design:


I was wondering if someone here would be able to understand the arduino coding.

I would really like to know how I would be able to change what MIDI notes are being sent out so try different scales and get rid of the octave change in the first and last input.
Please help!
5 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
^the harp is upside-down so I can mess with the photo-resistors

here's the code 1 of 2:


MIDI-enabled Laser Harp
SOURCE: http://open-source-energy.org/?topic=1129.0

See: MIDI Technical Specifications



short midiCalibrateAmbientLight = 1023;
boolean midiLaserState[MIDI_LASER_COUNT] = {false, false, false, false, false, false, false, false, false};
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part 2 of 3 cont:

void loop() {

void calibrateAmbientLight() {
midiCalibrateAmbientLight = analogRead(midiPinVelocity);

void midiIntroSong() {
midiSendNoteOn(60, 127);
midiSendNoteOn(64, 127);
midiSendNoteOn(67, 127);
midiSendNoteOn(72, 127);
midiSendNoteOn(67, 127);
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part 3 of 3:

void midiHandleReadLaser(byte thePin, boolean theState) {
if ((midiLaserState[thePin] != theState) && midiHandleRateLimit(thePin)) {
midiLaserState[thePin] = theState;
if ((thePin == MIDI_LASER_OCTAVE_DOWN) || (thePin == MIDI_LASER_OCTAVE_UP)) {
midiHandleOctave(thePin, theState);
} else if (theState) {
midiSendNoteOn(midiNotes[thePin] + (12 *midiOctave), midiVelocity);
} else {
midiSendNoteOff(midiNotes[thePin] + (12 *midiOctave));

void midiInitPins() {
for (byte thePin = 0; thePin <...
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So due to horrible placing of outlets in my house. I have two computers hooked up to the same outlet, including their periphirals (monitors, speakers etc.)
When flipping the psu power switch to "on" I noticed the monitor on the other computer for a brief second either losing signal or having a small static line appear on it.
So my first insticnt was that there was a faulty cap on the power circuit in the monitor letting thourgh dirty power.
I switched between the monitors and sure enough I couldn't reproduce the issue.

While Switching them back...
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14 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
The blue spark was probably static and should have grounded out through the monitor frame. I wouldn't expect any problems.

As for the other issues, there is obviously some voltage changes happening in your household circuit. The Power Supply should absorb minor changes, but that will burn the PSU itself out pretty soon.

Easiest solution (aka, not rewiring the house) is getting a Power Conditioner or Universal Power Supply. Should be 100 bucks ish. Well worth it to protect your hardware if you suspect dirty power.
I think you're over reacting to a point that you're not seeing things clearly. If nothing's wrong don't go looking for something. I'm not trying to come off as a dick, but it really doesn't seem like there's an issue. The line could have easily been a capacitor charging up, and trying to replicate it didn't work because it already had its charge.
It's probably not a problem.

If it's worrying you, get a small UPS for each computer. The controllers for them have gotten much cheaper, and better in the past few years. Even the bargain model will probably have some automatic curettage regulation. This will protect your computer from momentary (to fairly short) dips in power, and for power outages laying maybe ten minutes. That is plenty. The bigger more expensive units give you more time on otherwise identical equipment, or the same time on bigger equipment, and you won't need that. The batteries are...
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How could I implement a digital speedometer like this into my car? The light went out on my old volvo 850 spedometer which caught my interest in modding it.
19 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
the later p80 v70s had a signal wire that gave you the speed for things lke changing the radio volume that you could have used but that was with the ETM, i don't know what an old 850 with a traditional throttle is like.
but essentially you figure out how the speed is communicated to the dash on the physical and data layers and build a system to analyse and display the result.
pretty much any microcontroller could do this with perhaps some additional circuitry to convert voltage levels to something suitable.
couple of shift registers and a handful of leds to display the output. possibly some hysteresis in the micro code because the last thing you want is lights flashing at you distracting your attention when you drive.

inb4 OP gets arrested for making that and later gets to meet Obama
Can't you just use a phone + digital speedometer app (with gps) to make do?

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My grandfather is trying to remove the clutch shaft from the transmission and is unable to find how. Any help would be appreciated.
6 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
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you need a manual, theyre available online, look around
We did and couldn't find anything. He has already talked to a mechanic as well, but there is nobody who can come out and work on it because we live quite a ways from the city.
Does this help


What issue is he having? I've did more than a couple engine and trans swaps on passenger vehicles, never touched heavy equipment but some things I know might apply.

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My grandma had this tv since the 60s. When the tube died she took out the electronics and used it as a kind of bookshelf. The unit is still in good shape and sturdy so I want to put in an LCD screen for fun. My question is, if it doesn't fit exactly ( which it probably won't) what's a good "mat" material to put over the gap? Should it be something like shiny black plastic to match the TV material? Or a stained piece of wood to match the console material
24 replies and 7 images submitted. Click here to view.
I'd say wood to match. Trimmin shit with wood is classic.

Trying to match the veneer will be tough for a newb and your picture doesn't help. Some hardware stores or wood working or furniture stores will have wood chips with stain/varnish combinations on them you could use like paint chips to match. It's complicated because the wood is very important, the stain is important, the finish is important, and so is the technique. They can all significantly change the look. where as paint just looks like paint unless your primer is shit tier..
Sorry I don't have a good picture of it but I'll get one next time I'm there. It's one of those pressboard types with either veneer or printed wood grain adhesive, so my custom piece will probably stand out a bit
I have the exact situation with a 60's cabinet. Was originally intending to put in an LCD, but also toyed with the thought of a lighted fish tank, but ultimately it is a bookshelf

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Hello /diy/, I'm here for advice.

My old-ish TV (Sony KDL 40W-2000) has been making some buzzing sounds from behind lately, so I decided to remove the rear cover to have a look and give a good clean while I was there.

I was hoping to find something obviously wrong, but of course everything looks fine to my uneducated eye, it wasn't even that dirty despite being years since the last time dust was removed.
I'm at a loss now, the TV works perfectly fine, but that barely audible buzzing sounds means something is wrong and it will get worse sooner...
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I don't know why, but 4chan is not allowing me to post images, sorry for the delay.
Here is the part where the buzzing noise comes from, I am assuming this is some kind of motherboard.

Anyway, I can't pinpoint the exact origin of the noise, but it seems to come from the lower half.
I was expecting some loose connectors or balls of dust clogging something, but everything looks fine and I'm not too much into electronics to identify all the things I'm seeing.

If you guys need additional pics or details, just ask.

I just want to understand if this looks like something fixable by myself or if there is some kind of additional...
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On an unrelated note, I was looking at this metal bar with 10 slots in there. I have no idea what are those white things inside each slot and they are all covered by transparent plastic film.
Some of them have what looks like burning marks on the film though, what are they? How would I know if something is wrong in there too?

Keep in mind the TV has been repaired by Sony shortly after purchasing because of burned pixels and uneven patches of colours on the screen, so those marks may be leftover from the previous repair.

Any help? Should I just bring it to a...
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