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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 84. page
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I asked over in /g/ (technology) but didn’t get any replies, so I thought I’d hit you guys up for an answer as it is kinda /diy/ issue;

I recently got a pair of wireless Bluetooth headphones (iDealUSA) so I could listen to music off my computer (Mac Mini OSX El Capitan 10.11.02) while taking care of chores around the house, including down in the basement such as doing laundry.

Problem is, despite the claimed 10 meter range of the headphones, the audio cuts in & out due to interference from floor joists, heating ducts and whatnot blocking the signal.

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>I recently got a pair of wireless Bluetooth headphones (iDealUSA)
google says no.
At least not for A2DP. No demand for it.

You could take your computer and put your music on icloud or onedrive and stream it all from your phone via an appropriate app or two. Not sure if google drive does it, but I would suspect it does. I know onedrive is quite nice about it. All my stuff on onedrive is automatically in my music apps on all my devices.
There are ways on the RF end to improve reception, but aside from relocating the receiver to a more convenient location, most of them will require some hacking/amplification/swapping of the antennas and thus probably won't be 100% legal (assuming US jurisdiction and no radio license).

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i just bought this thing at a garage sale but it needs a new power cable

does anyone know where it goes?
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Into the black block behind the trigger. Without more/better pictures I couldn't say for more certain. It will require Live, Neutral and Earth, with a properly fused plug. Metal bodied drills can be lethal if they have a short and dump through the casing.
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im having trouble finding out where exactly
Wires are missing that black box the trigger is connected to would normally have three wires coming out for the power cable. This is a hard fix than just putting in a new power cable. For reference google the manufacturers spare parts list in relation to that model of drill. Hope you didn't pay more than 5 bucks for it cause power drills are cheap these days. Live and learn

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I'm thinking about buying a house that's on a relatively steep slope. I'd like to make the front yard less steep by building up earth held in place by a retaining wall. Is that just crazy or is it feasible, especially with earth/sand/cement bags?
71 replies and 19 images submitted. Click here to view.
Retaining wall are best with poured concrete or stone/block/brick. Although, because they are ultra cheap, my state's road crews use wire fencing, gravel, and I-beams.

You really should use solid blocks/stones though.
so if done properly that could create a less steep slope that could be like a front yard?
It is going to be $$$$$$

Often. You can find the cost of medium sized retaining wall coming close to and exceeding the cost of the house.

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I'm looking to stablize a flat platform using 4 motors, what sensors should I use? I'm using an arduino, is it safe to assume a couple of accelometers will do the job?
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You can get a 6 axis accelerometer (often called a gyro but it's not) on a single chip.

Then you need a servo shield. Then you need to copy paste some code you can google.
>often called a gyro but it's not

But it is.

It's a 3-axis gyro and a 3-axis accelerometer on the same chip. Either way, yes, that's what you want.
Imagine the top of the cup being your platform, and the filled (and heavy) bottom of the cup some suspended weight.
You're thinking way too complicated.

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Are old fans like this terribly inefficient? If so, what could be done to increase their efficiency so that I don't feel as guilty using them?
19 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.

Check the wattage rating.

Fans usually haven't come much of a way in terms of energy conservation as they are primarily just simple motors with some blades attached.
By "new fans" do you mean like those dyson "bladeless" fan monstrosities with their ridiculous over 100% efficiency claims? Because they just have a normal bladed fan in the base that blows air up to the channels.
>100% efficiency

So,...it like uses 100% of the electricity is uses to push all the air the blades touch? Electric in and air out, nothing else is produced. How does that company measure that anyway? If it makes any motor noise, vibration, or heat at all then it isn't 100% efficient.

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This is an odd request, but I was wondering if anyone knows of or has footage of someone crafting, shaping, carving, sanding, etc. wood that doesn't speak. To be more specific, I'm looking for footage where someone is doing something involving carpentry and not talking as if it's some tutorial.

I find it incredibly relaxing to listen to it or watch it. Something like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RjxUzmZpCn4 (2:39 - 2:47 is the best part)

No idea why it soothes me, I guess I'm just weird.
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I found this playlist.

You might find more here:

>No idea why it soothes me, I guess I'm just weird.
You're not weird anon :) Look up asmr to find more soothing videos.
It's not weird, I love watching people work that are really good at what they do. Especially carpenters. Unless they're doing something crazy like cross cutting a long plank on the table saw with their hands or leaning into a band saw too far with their fingers in line with the blade. I love working with wood for the same reason, once you figure out that math and do the setups it's smooth sailing, as long as you did the first parts right.

Try looking up build videos instead of how to build videos. Even some of the guys on YouTube who are self made instructors have videos where they just build stuff.
Some channels are entirely built upon silent videos.

First one that comes to mind is DiResta, aka Hideo "a Kojima Production" Kojima of DIY

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so i want to build a hoop that small pellets can fly through.

if a pellet does go through the hoop a light / buzzer goes off as well as maybe some other processing.

what does /diy/ recommended? I know im going to need some kind of motion sensor but i had a look online and dont really know much about the subject
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lasers and laser detectors around the ring
make the loop a coil (lots of windings) and connect it to a lc oscillator. then connect that to a freq detector that has a go-high-when-detects-freq output. then drive a counter, buzzer, bell, etc.
the lc osc acts like a tuned osc that changes freq when something enters the coil.
Sonic transducer. Or for a metal pellet, hall effect sensor

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Wassup /diy/
I'm looking for some instructions to build WOODEN AK47. I don't need a thing that can harm anyone. Just good looking prop to hang it under bed
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print out a 1:1 picture of the ak
stick it to a plank of wood
cut out the shape
chisel out the rest of the shapes
Well, I mean sth more realistic
So add some "sand/finish/stain/paint" steps in between "chisel out the rest of the shapes" and "profit"

Did you want us to build it for you as well?

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After watching this video:

I've decided to learn it. What are the best resources to learn this language?
My English is not the best but I doubt resources in Arabic exist for me to learn it.
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here ya go thought this would be help-full also >>>/int/
So is someone gonna come up with comedy nicknames for all these weirdos with absolutely nothing in common except a fixation with a pointless man-made language?

Hey /diy/, /g/ here.

I've always been a digital logic fag, so my analog skills are subpar. I could use some help with what some components of this circuit do. Here's what know:
C1 prevents reverse flow out the input
R1 biases the input
The gain potentiometer controls gain by controlling the amplification factor, preventing electrons from flowing across the cathode.
C2 and R4 do the same as C1/R1 for stage 2
4,5 heater
C3, prevents reverse flow through the circuit
C4, VR2 adjusts tone by controlling how much low-band FQ can drain to ground
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C1 and R1 are an input signal filter, I think high-pass to get 60Hz and DC out of there.
C2 and R4 do the same
I think C3 is a coupling between the amp circuit and the tonestack/volume control to keep the two from interfering with each other (hard to explain I'm drunk)
C4 you understand. Look at C1 and 2 the same way, just with fixed resistors.

R2 and R3 affect what voltage actually goes on the tubes. Look up a voltage divider and it'll give you a rough idea, not exactly the same, but the ballpark concept.
Oh, C3 also keeps DC bias out of the output signal.
> What I dont understand, is where R2/R3 come from, how those values were determined and what they really do

Look up "common emitter voltage amplifier".

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How would you go about preserving skin with long hair on it?

Hypothetically I have someone's scalp with their long hair still attached. What's the best way I can make it last without damaging the hair so I could like, say wash said hair occasionally and stuff?

Would it be as simple as tanning the hide, I think that's the phrasing? I'd like to avoid chemicals in the event of damaging the hair and not being able to smell it regularly.
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alot of "questionable" threads today. Yes, tan it like a normal hide
I apologize. First time visitor of this board.
mods! cia bait threads!

Im thinking about getting an old Caterpillar 769b dumper. I need a way to make the tires impervious to air loss/flats. With a payload of around 75k lbs, simple everyday foam wont work.

I was thinking of either filling tires with 30 durometer polyurethane. I also came across this - www.gemplers.com/product/T4024/GEMPLERS-Ultraseal-Tire-Sealant-5-gal-Bulletproof-grade

Any DIY ideas?
>pic related...the beast
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>Seals bullet wounds.
Sounds perfect for your heist/killdozer.
Solid rubber would work best I think. I have a solid rubber wheel that has lasted longer than the 4 wheel barrows that its been attached to over the past 20 years. Of course, no one has been shooting at it.
>Solid rubber tires for an AllahSnackbarDozer
Yea fuck that price and non-availability.

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Why aren't there any reasonable 3d printers that have a 2ft x 2ft printing bay area (let's say a 1 ft height, just for shits and giggles).

> 3d printers are just for prototyping
Don't mean to sound like a liberal cuck, but spending a few hundred bucks on a machine for a prototype that is actual size is more up my alley then going for a 6 inch size of the model.

Anyone have experience with increasing their 3d printer bay size?
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love bump

If by "reasonable" you mean cheap, there are none that don't have shit accuracy and other problems. If by "reasonable" you mean decent quality then they are probably out of your price range. As you haven't told us your price range that makes is zero. Come back with more info, especially material and features you are looking for and maybe we can help you.
I'm looking for shit tier quality with a large bay size. I see machines that are "meant to be upgraded!" but will then charge nearly a hundred dollars for a larger threaded rod.

I don't mind spending money for a 3d printer, but would prefer to spend at / under 1k for a shit quality large bay size machine.

Are the websites that print the .stl files compatible with prints of such large sizes? Anyone have experience with doing that?

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I've got these shitty kitchen boards made out of metal with a single crappy rail on the back, and a cheap clasp from some German company that only sells to the trade.

Over time, the little clasps have broken, meaning the boards barely hold in place, and one keeps falling down constantly.

I can't buy these clasps anywhere, because they have a specific dumb retard system that doesn't work properly, and I can't buy some other types and bodge them to fit with screws because there's nothing to screw into on a mm or two of aluminium.

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what, do you take them off weekly to vacuum?

just do 2 dabs of silicone and call it a day
Get some 3m hook and loop or hook and hook system or whatever and stick it on.
They've got a bit of sealant at the bottom, the issue is that the crappy clasps leave half of them resting at 70 degree angles as they're poorly supported.

Velcro? You know how plinths work, right? One large rigid body, lots of small plinths it has to grab onto. There's also a fair bit of distance between where the plinth is and where the board is.

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hey /diy/, anyone here ever do an install of a natural gas line? I am looking at some remote property with free gas. The problem is while it already has an old trailer with a service already installed, my whole family will move to this property and they will need to tap in to the line. How would I go about sizing the main service line to the house? Potentially long runs, its an 80 acre property and the gas well is to the side. Maybe 500-700 feet. Any ideas?
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bump, holy shit if it works out I will abuse the hell out of the free gas. THE HELL out of it. Looking into a stand by generator. Like a low rpm stand by generator or a listeroid. Gas fridge and freezer. gas stove, gas hot water tank (big!), gas heaters and hell, gas lights or heating a green house with ng.
Free gas sounds too good to be true! If it is, go for it!
free gas means you're stealing no doubt.

anyway, get the NG utility to do the work. long runs of underground pipe require special tools. also, tapping into the high pressure main before the meter requires the utility supplying the NG to shut the line down. typically one would use a poly pipe to run underground and the fittings are plastic welded. this is not /diy/

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