>>1011967 >but i'm not quite sure where to start. Probably not on /diy/.I'd start with google. Then if you have a specific question like "how do I join these spacer pieces for my herb box?" then we'll be able to give advise.
>>1011764 >Req for some thoughts on a design or design features for a wooden 3-family apartment mailbox. Fun fact: in the USA, mailboxes for postal service use must meet a set of guidelines issued and maintained by the Postmaster General. If you want to make your own mailbox, there is some rules about that: https://www.usps.com/manage/mailboxes.htm
>>1011765 it def didnt, i googled the same shit when the thread came up and i cant find anything for free, j&s are a jew brit company that pay for manuals part of hardinge unless op wants a manual on how to grind/surf grind in general...
I have an invention in my head for a new type of simple gym equipment....
Here's the thing--I don't believe in copyright, but it rips my guts apart to imagine making my product, some big mega corp steals my idea--they patent it, and then I get thrown in jail for selling something I invented first.
>>1011527 >I fuckin hate the legal system. You know, patent does nothing else than allows you to sue people who try to copy your donut steel. Without the legal system and your willingness to sue (or credibly threaten to sue) the infringers, patent is worthless.
>>1011543 that's not why I want to do the patent, I don't care if people steal my invention, what I am worried about is if people steal my invention, patent it themselves, then sue me for using the patent that I invented.
well /diy/ i got good news.... just dropped like 750 dollars on various propane fittings, hoses, pumps, regulators, ext for the fuel and oil systems of the home made jet engine im making. when i get back to my work garage mid august, i should be able to throw this togeather and give you guys some OC.
so, ask questions, i have done a shit ton of research on it, and i wish i could have had someone to q&a.
>>1011423 jet engine Axe and blades are made of a specific alloy called inconel, this alloy is very hard to fogs and is stupidly expensive too. i hope you already know that, an engine out of regular steel will not last you more than few runs
I would like to mount my TV on the wall and put shelving (will post below) around it. I don't want it to look cheap or tacky. The counter on the left is my kitchen. The window on the right over looks the deck and beside that, out of picture, is a sliding glass door to the patio.
I like the idea of floating shelves, but I've no idea how to accomplish such. There will be heavy books and possibly some sewing machines on the shelves, so I don't think floating shelves will be sturdy enough.
Plan B was using Fasttrack style shelving, but I don't want to look like I live in a department store. I was thinking of spray painting the metal hardware a light gold (not bronze) and pair it with a more expensive warm wood, as close to teak as I can get to match my teak table. Is that a bad idea?
Does any one have any suggestions? I'd greatly appreciate it.
I was also thinking about incorporating a floating shelf (Ikea cupboard hack) with the same wood on top. I could really use the extra storage, but I don't want to weigh down the room. The apartment is only 500sq/ft.
i've done this using the sound card, as have others, so there is documentation for doing it that way. also, there's at least one instructables.com project using the serial port, if you still have such a thing.
offhand i dont know of any projects using USB receivers. presumably someone would have to write their own driver, which requires major skillz.
The one in my car has broken apart, probably due to old age. Its made of a semi-hard rubbery plastic. I've gorilla glued it together and its held up for now. But I know its going to break soon. I can feel it flexing and trying to sheer itself apart when I shift into reverse
I'm working on making a replacement one out of wood to match the rest of the trim. Working on possibly improving the design to make it more ergonomic as well.
Is this stuff worth keeping? I am clearing out a work space, and this vice and bench grinder are for the taking. They both work. Are they worth taking? I will say I have very little storage at the moment, otherwise i would take them in a hearbeat. I am not doing and projects at the moment, but have in the past and plan to again. I was always told older shit like this is the best so that is why I am asking really. Again, they both operate well.
So I want to get into ferreting. There is no way of skirting the cost of a ferret, but a ferret tracking collar is quite expensive, almost $300, and all it does is attach to the ferret, and allow you to detect where it is underground.
Quite primitive technology, seems like it could be made /diy/ for cheaper.. Any suggestions?
Might be able to fineagle something with a strong radio transmitter on its back (since it won't be going deep underground) and three+ receivers. Triangulation sort of thing, but you'd have to write all your own code for it
Hey Diy, can you recommend a good non overpriced multimeter. Wherever I look I see fluke as top multimeter. Can you recommend a multimeter under 30 bucks. It doesn't have to be super accurate,however, auto-range would be nice. >pic related is very similar to what I'm using , its a few years old and can't go back to 0 sometimes.
>>1003194 http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1464971110&sr=8-3&keywords=multimeter I got this several years ago and it still works great.
I have a really nice lawn, almost no weeds, etc, but I have a problem with moles. Especially near the driveway where they all pop out of the ground and create holes everywhere. I want to genocide them all. Problem is I hear they are very hard to poison because they don't eat anything that isn't slimy and wriggly (like worms). I want to avoid using traps as the whole thing seems like a bit too much trouble, but if I need to do so I'll do it.
anyone got a aurora 3d printer here? i need the pre configerated configs. i bought it from gearbest, and the drivers were crap. everything went backwards. i need a new copy but there is nowhere to download it. please post a link for me!
>>1011650 I need a fresh config to work with. i am using marlin right now. it seems close to what i need. i just neet to know what to do. there are no instructions though, because gearbest is chinamade KO crap.
what's the best way to go about restoring this coffee table that's been sitting outside for 1+ yr into a flat clean indoor coffee table. many of the boards are uneven but wood seems to be in generally good condition. Three some stain stripper on it but seemed to dry up almost immediately, maybe because it's so sunny. more pics to follow
Hey /diy/, newcomer here. Recently bought myself a house. Already have a project I want to do, I want to install recessed LED cans in the whole house. I have a question or two, though.
Is it a bad idea to just install the cans in place of where the previous lights were? I do notice that most people seem to put several of them per room; can I not just install a big one and be done with it?
Also, is there some kind of rule for how many should be installed per foot?
being recessed means they cast their light mostly downwards, so to get even lighting, you have to have a lot of them or else you get dark areas. i had a bunch of 12V halogens before, and just had to replace the bulbs, since you can get LED with MR16 type sockets. so, it only took like 3 mins per lamp to replace.
Where are the carving bros at? I'm looking to get into carving/whittling while I'm /out/, but I'm not sure where to start. I've seen a particular sort of hook blade used in threads here before (on the right in pic related). Should I acquire one? Is it practical to carve things out of wood you find in the forest?
>>1011286 If you can find 'recently dead' wood it's generally not too bad after a bit of drying out and checking for bugs, fungus and shit. Smaller pieces you can do in a microwave as well if you're careful. Green timber takes a while to dry naturally and you've got to clean the bark off it, seal the ends and generally prep it for storage away somewhere.
Most of it is a pain in the arse, but I still go out after storms and see if I can find a few interesting bits with natural bends
Just started researching making air rifles. If I use PVC, I can't really exceed 150 psi, but at the same time, I need a Schrader valve regardless of whether I use PVC or steel piping, and the only ones I have available also can't exceed 150 psi. Any suggestions for what I should do? I was thinking a check valve that can exceed 150 psi with a Schrader at the end of it, that way it can pump air in fine without having to worry about the Schrader valve shooting into my lung while I'm pumping it
It'll be easy to convert it to a proper air compressor coupling. You might ask why not just leave it since it's a schraeder valve hose, and that's because air compressor hardware will last hard repetitive use, schraeder valves aren't meant to be used several times a day.
if somebody decides to replace your water with napalm and lights your irrigation system on fire you'll be breathing chlorine gas, that's the reason why PVC is banned in a lot of countries for certain applications.
why would you want to draw that air into the rest of the house?
Would adding an air return in the attic to your furnace and adding a window AC unit make things considerably more comfortable? This the route I went even with two windows open and the stair door wide open there wasn't any noticeable change.
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