Hey /diy/, i recently bought a sharpening stone to maintain my knives and i want to know your opinion on the technique. Ive heard contesting opinions on whether to use water, oil, or go dry. Pic related is my stone. I got a 4 dollar SS folder for work purposes. Yes i know SS is an inferior knife material, but i cant seem to get the edge i want. Either its true what they say about SS not holding a fine edge, or its just me being green.
If the blade isn't holding an edge, try increasing the angle of the blade in relation to the stone. It may seem counter-intuitive, but on some shoddier metals, it actually work pretty well in some cases.
Some more info: i have a norton crystolon stone, one side coase, one fine. The norton website recommends using oil for lubrication, so unless i can get good contradicting info here, i will be using oil. I used water in my first attempt with mediocre results. Better than the factory edge but with more to be desired
I'm thinking of buying a bit of land and I want to build a small stone cottage/hut/shed to sleep in when I visit. Nothing too crazy inside; about five by three yards or so with a fireplace and a stove for heat/cooking, no electricity needed, a bed. Illumination would be provided by paraffin lamps and candles, maybe a generator outside if I really wanted electricity.
Now, I've had no experience whatsoever in building anything more than a wooden shed, so any points would be welcome.
I have never seen a thread about /diy/ related chemistry such as home laboratories, simple experiments, and amateur research.
I was wondering if that is due to either lack of interest or if discussing these things is a violation of the rules. Going to err on the side of caution regarding this until I get some response as to whether or not it's OK to discuss those sorts of things here.
1.) Difficulty obtaining materials due to legal restrictions 2.) There isn't actually that much use for DIY chemistry. Other than household cleaning supplies and soap, I can't even think of anything off the top of my head that I'd need to do any chemistratin' for. Okay, well, I guess actually I made some copper chloride for etching circuit boards, but, other than that, nada. It's a fairly niche topic. 3.) It's kinda dangerous, depending on what exactly you're... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>911088 Those plastic things that suck up solder work pretty well and I think they're only 5 or 10 bucks more + they're reusable(?). As for the holder I know the one you're talking about and it's decent but if you're going to be doing a lot of soldering and want one that's going to last a long time consider dropping the 50-60 dollars on one of the higher end ones. That small fucker with the magnifying glass is a bit awkward to use, I can't really explain why.
>>911102 those solder sucker sucks, the solder splatter cools inside making tons of fragments and crap that will drop onto your pcb and everywhere near it, it is a flawed design, it very easily contaminate the working area with solder dusts and crap
I'm looking to get a kickass turntable this Christmas, which makes this piece of junk obsolete. So, I'm going to completely dismantle it and rebuild it. I'm going to 86 the speakers and make it so I just plug it in via aux. I know the whole player is shitty, i just want to make something interesting looking. Has it been done before? Can I see some builds?
>>911071 >I know the whole player is shitty, i just want to make something interesting looking. Interesting idea, but I'm not sure if I'd even bother to go that far with it. Even with the guts ripped out, these made in China Crosleys are only good for firewood.
Just my opinion, but try checking out a nice turntable from the 70's era. Some of the best built equipment comes from the 70's, early 80's. Not sure who makes a really decent turntable these days. Some research will definitely pay off.
>>911087 >1) look for a belt driven. If the belt isn't showing, then don't get it Nothing wrong with direct drive, though. And a reasonably good belt driven model doesn't necessarily have to have an external belt.
For this scenario, I'd like for all of us to assume a plague that hits worldwide that allows .5% of the population to live. That means 4,200 people in New York City, and 160,000 throughout the whole country. Small cities, like Boulder CO, are left with 50 people.
For everyone to drop within a week or two, what plays out? 4000 people in NYC? What do they do? 50 people in Boulder? What are behaviors like?
Give me your ideas on the first year, and maybe ten years in. Would love to hear your two cents.
It's outputs are 40mA, same as the arduino's IO pins. You can power it with up to 15v and then have those voltages as outputs, but then you lose the ability to control it with the arduino's 5v logic. All it does is implement the NOT function which you can do in software on the arduino any time you need it.
Do something without the Arduino like a ring oscillator.
I wish to create a bunch of ups systems so that networking equipment can continue to work during a power outage.
All UPS' will have 2 lantern batteries in series to make 12 volts, however not all equipment will work on 12v, eg switches running on 5v.
I plan on using 5v buck regulators to regulate down the voltages of the batteries however I am unsure how I will do this with my (well, "modified") design, because right now I am tempted to make them all 12v systems with regulators just chucked on the output.
I may have... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>910873 >>910874 Why would you waste money on throw away batteries? For less than $20, you can buy small, sealed, maintenence free 12v lead acid batteries...for things like UPS' and alarm systems. You top the charge off once a month with a cheap car charger.
Why would you waste energy bucking voltage from 12v down to 5v? Build a dedicated UPS for 5v stuff. Could use 6v battery of same type I mentioned above. Might not even need to buck it down to 5v, but if you had... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>910865 Workbench too full. Oscilloscope, drill stand, multimeter and a few random tools resting on my night stand along with misc. components and a shitty PSU that I built a few years ago.
Sine wave generator and Lab PSU are on top of a closet. Breadboard with a PWM controller is on my computer desk chair along with my netbook. I'm in bed with my laptop because I've got no room elsewhere, unless I move stuff to the bed.
I'm going to add a single 220v recepticle in the garage. Which amperage breaker and type of wire should I use? I'm getting different feedback from 30 amp to 100 amp and to use 10 gauge or 8 gauge wire. Do I use romex and do they have them in larger than 12 gauge with 2 blacks or 1 red, 1 black plus ground?
I don't want to run conduit around the garage. I want to feed the wire from the breaker box to the other wall.
more distance = fatter wire because there'll be a loss of voltage over the run and you want to minimise that. old transformer welders dgaf about volt droop, but inverter welders that haven't been designed as 'generator safe' die horribly.
calculate your breaker based on the resistance of a dead short at the far end of your wire run. if a short circuit draws less than the trip current of the breaker all your shit burns down.
I'd strongly suggest you read your country's wiring regulations.
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