I built some raised beds for my new garden over the last two days. From an engineering standpoint they're ugly, the materials are substandard, and they have some technical issues. But they work, and they ought to hold dirt without falling apart which is good.
Many pics here: >>>445050
This is a picture of the final products, four in total. Now I just need to get the rock pile I have on the other side of the house and lay down a bottom drainage layer, and then somehow get the dirt (also on the other side of the house) into the beds.
All the materials I used were scrap and/or free, and the tools were all borrowed as well, so overall I think I was pretty successful.
>>753560 Not sure if someone said it but remember to not use treated lumber when doign that (doesn't look like yours is, but I'm just sayin anyway). Looks good mate, will probably hold a couple of years which is all you really can ask for unless you build it with stones (but that requires another kind of climate).
>>752941 currently I'm on a speaker project. This is my Hi-Fi setup (also good for theatre sound) with 2 27"x8" speaker towers that I custom built myself, the total volume of each of these cabinets is 25.75 liters, each housing a 5.25" peerless mid woofer and a 3" peerless full range speaker (up to 20khz) which acts as a tweeter. I didn't use a traditional tweeter because I wanted a fuller sound and tweeters hurt my ears after long periods of listening. They look are complete, but I want to make improvements on them, like make my own speaker grills, and other things I can apply to them that reduce vibration. I am open to any suggestions and comments on what I do with these.
>>754055 I too am working on making some speakers, that's why I made a table saw. Got half the wood cut out today.
As for your speakers, adding internal bracing will reduce vibration, and for grills you can drill holes and glue magnets in, then put metal inserts in the grills. That's how the grills on my fortes are.
>>754119 Thanks for the tip on using magnets to secure the speaker grill, I have an idea of buying 3/8" magnets from madisound, then buying a speaker grill kit from parts-express and combining those to make an easily removable grill. As for vibration reducing tips, I read that using a mazed baffle, like the one in the picture should work well enough (and i can't really take it about because it's completely glued together and already painted). I also read that using 5 pound brass or lead weights on the inside of the vent should help reduce vibration. And your project looks pretty interesting too, how many drivers are you planning to use?
well, i got a lot of shit going on, with little progress here and there.
got my electric skateboard almost done. still struggling with the range on the fukken wii nunchuck.
it keeps losing connection at less than 1 meter. any ideas? with the controls always fucking with me its been hard to take for a ride, but i managed to do a little round and about after 2 beers last night, felt good man
>>754229 i've also been messing with an old VFD i rescued form the dump during out scrap purge when the office moved. i thought it would be a bitch to get working but it turns out you can just serial print to it at 9600 baud and it types the ascii right out.
i used an atmega8 on a little standalone board i made just to test eagle. pretty much a barebones arduino just internal oscillator and programmed over SPI.
here it's running a little test code i wrote printing each character and its corresponding hex value just to test.
its old and used so some segments are dim. i've read about running a higher current on the heater/cathode for a few seconds with burn of residue, restoring the brightness. thoughts on this?
>>754283 I used a mixture of perlite and sodium silicate (made myself) and water, packed it in, then lined the entire thing with plaster of Paris/sand, waited a week until the entire thing is bone dry, but I waited a day too long and the big freeze came and now too cold to fire it up, so I won't know if this will be good till it gets a little warmer.
>>754255 Nice looking table! Good save from that old top. I did this Lego table for my son for Christmas (Red pieces are IKEA, the rest is poplar, OSB and PVC (mostly, what I had around)). Next few projects are all for the shop (bookshelf, cabinet for the fragile tools, then probably an extension table for the table saw).
interesting design, look into getting the program that does the math for you to get an effective port system, more important than the shape is definitely the cross over, because it will send you back to the drawing board if you don't like the frequency response, you probably did some testing
>>754771 I actually made these speakers only using calculations related to volume and weight. I also did not use a crossover, as the larger woofer will only play sounds from 60Hz to 5,000Hz, while the smaller one plays everything from 50Hz to 20,000Hz. I did this one purpose because I wanted a more dynamic sound with lots of bass, due to the low F3 I obtain from the maze port system.
>>754825 yeah, but I've only gotten to test it on really short stretches. again, due to the Norwegian climate most go for longboards but i got a pretty short one, i thought this would be a problem but i think i like it. tighter turnradius and i can carry it by the trucks without scraping the ground.
esc: http://www.hobbywing.com/product_show.asp?id=239 motor :http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18181__Turnigy_Aerodrive_SK3_-_6364-190kv_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor.html battery: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8586__ZIPPY_Flightmax_5000mAh_6S1P_25C.html
despite being an electronics tech, I've pretty much just followed this guide: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=53506
A table saw, made of wood is quite possibly the most terrifying thing I can think of as a tool.
Little known fact; those blades can break. I heard it before I saw it. The shop had a HUGE WW2 vintage cabinet saw, other guy was using it... something happened... one part of the blade rocketed up and was embedded in the ceiling beams, the other large part of the blade was safely contained inside the table/cabinet of the saw.
The belts and wires inside the saw were ruined and had to be replaced... what with having a saw blade ricochet through them, and we never did pull that blade out from the ceiling... left it as a warning, we'd tell new guys about the shop safety rules then point up at that blade.
The guy that was using the saw had to take 3 days off to just calm-the-fuck-down, but he was OKAY. But I would never feel safe using a table saw that's NOT 1 with a cast iron top or with a fully enclosed cabinet.
>>755441 table saw is the second most dangerous wood working tool next to a router, im not saying i wouldnt build a wooden table saw if i needed one and had no means to get one but the cost of all that plywood and the time it took to build it could not be cheaper than buying a table saw,
The weight of the table isn't really a safety issue, the safety features are. There are two main dangers with table saws:
1) It's possible for the saw to grab onto your work piece and drag it into the sawblade. If you're not familiar with this, or if you're not expecting it, and you're holding onto the wood tightly, the saw will drag your hand along with the wood right into the sawblade. This isn't usually a big deal with table saws if you're feeding it correctly, but these DIY saws lack a guard or riving knife that makes it impossible to fuck up.
2) The second, and much more significant source of injury is kickback. This occurs when your wood binds against the sawblade and it creates enough tension to rebound back away from the table saw and into the operator. Wood that is ejected in this way easily carries enough momentum to smash your face and kill you. This is prevented by a riving knife, which prevents wood from binding on the back of the blade, and by having accurate fences, which prevent the work piece from moving sideways into the blade while cutting.
3) The last major risk when using a table saw is the risk of the operator falling onto the saw blade while it's running. Many commercial table saws have a guard over the blade that shield against any inadvertent contact.
Two things here. First- a table saw accident means that you're loosing fingers and hands at a minimum, if not gouging a deep hole in your chest. Second- safety is about planning for the worst case scenario, not the best case. You might feel perfectly able to run your saw, but what happens if a dumbass or a kid gets ahold of it? Even experienced craftsmen have accidents when something unexpected happens... what happens if you have a heart attack and pitch yourself over the table? I read a story about a very serious and experienced woodworker who lost three fingers on to a table saw because he left his workshop door open a crack and his dog came in and bumped him while cutting.
This. My grandfather has taken the tips of his fingers off multiple times with his table saw. We are lucky he can still count to ten on his hands and that the doctors were good and able to sew his finger tips back on. All it takes is one little slip up, one second of not thinking and bam, there goes your flesh. It doesn't help that he doesn't like the guards and removes them.
>>755845 I've seen kickback first hand, and it is NOT a pretty sight. Person was crosscutting a small 2x4 on a take saw without the riving knife. It caught and threw it into the wall, guy was lucky he didn't get hit. It was thrown with so much force it would have broken ribs or something.
>>756324 Just some critique - I'm no pcb pro or anything but maybe a couple of things that could help.
At highlight 1 it looks like you can swap those two components so you don't have a trace going under one of them.
At highlight 2 I'd see about cleaning that up a little so you don't have two traces going in between pins - just makes less room for your fab shop to mess up.
At highlight 3 those vias are pretty close to those 3 traces going to the USB port. Again just preventing fab issues
At highlight 4 again multiple traces are crammed between the pins as well as almost wrapping around a pin a little. There might be a way to space them out a bit and leave a little wiggle room for errors.
To be honest as much as it would suck I'd play around with rotating the DIP28 90 degrees and re arranging from there. To me it looks like there is just too much trying to get around too many obstacles.
>1 yep you're completely right. >2 I'll try and use a via near those resistors, otherwise i cant see a way to "untie" it >3 yeah I should move those down, easy done. >4 again I'll try and chuck some vias in.
I've rotated the dip around so many times, this is like my fifth revision of the board. but i think aside from those mentioned It should be pretty good.
I've had some late nights lately so the brain isnt 100%. cheers for the help.
>>755845 I worked in a cabinet shop for several years through high school and college. I was so happy I still had all my fingers when I was done working there.
The guy that ripped most the materials used to angle these 45 degree cuts into 1.5"x1.5"x.75" blocks used for decorations with his fingers right next to the blade like nothing, never gave a shit or seemed concerned about it but on several occasions warned me a bout kickback.
>>752942 I worked with something like this once on a remodel job. I just used an old board and jammed the saw in through a cut, from its angle it never fell out. Then i used a scrap piece trim jammed in the trigger to keep it on while I used it. Finally I just dropped the whole thing, after it was buzzing, on top of a cabinet that was being taken out; instant table saw.
I wired some cabinet lights and a dimmer switch for them. Now I need to figure out a housing for the switches and wires. Might do it from a folding storage box I found in a store. Once that's successful and once I get another set of lights to wire, I might redo the box or modify it to fit another set of batteries, a dimmer and a switch.
>>758546 The top section is a sequencer. There are seven rows of 20 switches. The system checks each switch in a pattern set by the faders. If a switch is closed it triggers the oscillators to start doing a thing (they do a lot of things) . The box of knobs controls the oscillators. There's a lot more to this project than those two parts.
> how the hell do you play this? I'll figure that out after building it.
>>761515 Looks nice mate, though that bar to the right of the seat looks like it would break your ribs if you got into a jumble. How are you planning on steering it? Will you be putting in pedals? How are you going about it?
>>761587 I have a 6.5 horsepower engine, planning on having a 5:1 ratio. I might step it up to 13hp later on, but I'm not sure I could do that with the metal I have just yet.
>>761588 Nothing on it is permanent yet. The wooden bar you see was just to see if the tie rods were long enough. I have a legitimate steering pinion on the way.
>>761596 Steering it will be done as said above. I'm putting pedals in for sure! I don't have a transmission for it yet (I don't know if I'll get one at all...) But I'm looking at the peerless 700 transmission if anything. I'm also planning a full roll-cage, sheet metal "floor", and headlights/gauges. Also, possibly a four-point harness as I might step the engine up later.
One of the major barriers in this project is finding good steel so I won't kill myself with this thing. I've got one buddy who's helping me out though, so things are going quicker than I thought, but for now, this is REALLY early in development. I'm planning to use this kinda like an ATV for geocaching in spots where my van might struggle, or possibly some back yard/neighborhood fun. Any feedback/wisdom would be appreciated!
>>761627 are you sure you can't go and buy some steel? (i would take a pic if i could) my go kart frame is just a rectangle with some bits going across it and the steel only cost $60 for the whole thing
>>761631 The only places I can really get steel at in Henderson Nevada is at lowe's or home depot, but the steel is pretty over-priced for what they're selling at both locations. I do however know plenty of places that buy scrap steel. Not sure if they're going to sell it though. I don't even mind if the steel is caked in rust either, I'll take the time to clean it thoroughly. If they don't sell it, my only other option is to buy steel in bulk or pay 30+ dollars for shipping to ship long pieces of square tubing; something I'd rather avoid. My buddy might have some steel I could take though. I'll have to ask him later. I guess I should also mention I'm on a pretty sharp budget for this too(~500 dollars left for now), so I'm going to spend as much time as possible trying to find whatever I can at the best price I can.
Anon, i've built a couple glorified gokarts in a college club for competitions for a few years. As for steering i have no suggestions since im not familiar with that kind of front suspension.
For the rear suspension i would suggest a solid mounted rear axle for simplicity. If you want some rear suspension the easiest thing would be to put a hinge in the frame behind the drivers seat and attach a shock or two to handle the load. If you wanna get even more complicated you're gonna need some sort of system to run cv axles and that opens a whole new can of worms with driveline angles and plunge issues.
As for power that 6.5 will make it scoot, but anything more would be terrifying with that frame. I dont want to shit on it, but ive seen people bend 1" tube with a 0.089" wall on a slow roll over (10-15mph). Try it out with that engine and if you still have the need for speed adjust and brace accordingly. If you really wanna go fast, you gotta build a much stronger frame from scratch. We got only 10hp and ive seen people get hurt even with all our rules.
As for a transmission you can pick up cvt's for decent prices from any gokart supply shop. Race karts can have up to 50hp so you should be about to find something that should hold the power. make sure to measure the output shaft on the engine and make sure it is compatible and that is it or isnt tapered. Most of them are the same if i remember correct. If you wanna go with a shiftable transmission then retrofitting a motorcycle trans is your best bet, but i have no experience in it, just seen it done.
Good luck, ill drop in and see if there's any progress every once in a while.
>>761639 Thanks anon. I was planning the rear hinge suspension method. Speed isn't my main concern with this thing, but if I want to make it go fast, I'll take your word for it and start anew.. The rear steel bit I have now will definitely NOT be what's used. I'll consider the transmission when I get a bit more money for this project. My buddy said he has some pretty nice steel he could give me, and mentioned he had some hinges off of a huge carpet hanger like in home depot. I'll post as soon as I do any more work on this thing.
>>761639 Also worth mentioning before I go to bed, the frame seen is not intended to be the final product at all. I'm still planning bunches of supports, braces, and frame elements. The whole rear behind the front isn't even welded at the moment. While it's not final, perhaps you could suggest a gauge of steel and diameter to use? Thanks. I'll post again tomorrow I get anything done on it.
>>761699 It's not as simple as you are describing. Just turning off the motor with a switch that cuts its connection to the batteries will not let the batteries charge with voltage generated by the motor.
You need to wire up a DPDT switch as an H-bridge so the voltage generated by the motor while moving forwards goes against the voltage from the battery. You then need to ride fast enough that the voltage generated by the motor is greater than the battery voltage, but not too much or the battery will be damaged. A regulator will protect against this excess. You also need to worry about overcharging the battery which requires a charge-controller circuit.
>>761701 My childhood chow pup loved being outside when it was fucking freezing. That fuckhead gave no fucks about frozen water unless it was just a solid. >We always shaved him during summer. You're apparently not supposed to do that shit, but we didn't know and he seemed to like it.
>>762040 We had a dog that was part Chow Chow, shaved is has like a lion every summer. Left a bit on the shoulders like a mane and a poof at the end of his tail. Motherfucker thought he was a badass every time we did it. Outside of a bald spot on his back he teamed to handle it fine. He lived to be about 13-14 years old (not sure when he was born) and got colon cancer, so we put him down. I doubt that was from the shavings though. He was in pretty good health outside of the cancer though.
>fixing up my Mother's detached garage so I can move out of her basement and live kind-of-but-not-really independently >thought I was so close, just had to put in insulation and do a few other things >LMAO NOPE FAGGOT, YOU NEED A NEW CIRCUIT TO HAVE ENOUGH POWER TO LIVE IN HERE >have to wire an entire new circuit from my fuse box, across the basement, into the crawlspace of the addition, across the crawlspace, then pull the new circuit+replacement wiring through the junction box where the existing circuit goes underground >then have to reconnect everything >and hope I don't fucking kill myself
Someone please kill me.
I just want to live in that shack, have a place to call my own (kind of).
>>762530 >and hope I don't fucking kill myself Are you joking? If you're afraid or intimidated or unsure of what you're doing you shouldn't be doing this yourself. If you burn your mother's house down because of a bonehead mistake you'll wish you had killed yourself instead.
>>762530 what're you even trying to run which requires more power than the garage can provide?
they can be a little scarce on plugs but they're usually at least on their own circuit, even if it's a weak one
in other words, don't use a microwave if a microwave knocks out the power, you need to figure out priorities, and if you're living with your mother that honestly probably wouldn't involve a power sucking fridge either
what you're looking to do isn't something that is going to be convenient but it is in the end a valuable experience, and as always, if heating is one of your issues, insulateinsulateinsulate, smaller areas are also cheaper to heat.
if you're in a colder place though, please consider at least waiting until summer, as an amateur could just as easily cut into a line with a shovel if the grounds part frozen, or run a line through a puddle if it's thawing.
I do a lot of stupid shit but I try to avoid doing electrical work best I can, shit is dangerous and you should not be doing it if you are not confident with it
Working on a DIY Ambilight. Instead of capturing in software, I'm using an HDMI splitter, HDMI->CVBS adapter, a usb video grabber and a RasPi running hyperion* to analyze the video and control a strip of LEDS.
Obviously not mounted yet, just fixated with adhesive tape for testing. Really looking forward to actually mount a strip of leds around the back of the monitor.
>>762942 Cloned my monitor output to a HDMI-->Composite adaptor (you can use some HDMI splitter with two outputs as well). The composite video output is connected to a cheap USB video grabber that is connected to a Raspberry Pi. The Pi is running an open source project called Hyperion that lets me both grab a video stream and control it over the network using the Android/iOS app. The LEDs are a strip of WS2801 controller RGB LEDs. Bascially a strip where each LED can be controlled individually with just 4 wires (ground/vcc + clock + data).
Part list: - HDMI -> composite video adaptor - USB video grabber (composite input) - Raspberry Pi - 1-2m of WS2801 LED strip - some wires - Power supply 5V with 5A (using 2 usb chargers should work too, just be careful, the LED strip I have need up to 3A)
It took me less than 5h to get what you can see in the video, but you should know a little bit about electronics and Linux (to setup Hyperion on the Pi)
>>762942 Oh btw, there is also a kit you can buy: http://lightpack.tv/
The difference is, that it uses a software to capture your desktop and whereas with what I'm doing there is no performance loss since the Raspberry Pi analyzes the video and controls the LED strip. I can also hook this up to game consoles :D
>>762989 >where's the little cage in one of the corners underneath that you keep your twink that you are feeding hormones too? >someone must know what im talking about, there's a screencap of it somewhere
I know what you're talking about. he kept him under his stairs or something, instead of paying rent, he got to be his personal bitch.
still don't know how that wasn't a lawsuit just waiting to happen....
>>755845 I had a 1/4" square about 5"x5" kick back and it struck my forearm. It made a small but deep nick that left a permanent scar. Hurt like a bitch too because of the impact on the bone. I took out the riving knife when I needed to make a non-through cut but was too lazy to put it back in even though 99.9% of my cuts are through cuts.
>>763264 >running new circuit through existing line
Oh boy. That's sure to end well. How exactly do you plan to have a second circuit if you only have one line going to the garage?
Or if you're just upgrading the breaker, I hope you realize that is extremely dangerous and will allow you to overload the cable causing wire degradation and most certainly fires after a period of time.
>>765027 Of course not. This room (it's actually more of an underground shed) has a slight flooding problem when it rains heavily. The jugs are there just to keep the water off the wood, so that my rack doesn't rot and send 40 kWh worth of batteries bouncing across the floor.
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