Your DIY home security? Not these kits you buy ACTUAL DIY security. I live in a not so great area in Milwaukee and have this on the back door. It's a cane used as a wedge to make it almost impossible to open. I also put noise makers on there of old bottles and spent bullet casings.
>Open the door
>drill through hinge plate into door frame
> sink in long bolt
> cut off bolt head so it sticks out about 1/4"
> close door and mark where it hits on the door side of the hinge.
> drill that side of the hinge plus a bit so it closes.
Now you can't take the door off even if you take the hinge pins out.
Why? If thief gets in through window and you have double locks they can't open the door.
You can also secure a door with a bar. Just like the old castles. You have to mount hooks on either side (preferably deep and well into the studs) then put a bar of some sort (even a hollow one) between them. Insanely hard to kick in.
Did this when I lived in a really shitty apartment.
Still though, if you have a hollow core door nothing is going to help. which mine were and they kicked in the bottom.
The doors in my house are steel. bungler will probably just break the windows. Which they did to me after they couldn't get the door fully open.
Needless to say I moved. Had to fight to get my deposit back even though the damage was done by a friggin crackhead.
Same here. My guess is a bar on the inside or slider locks at regular intervals over the perimeter.
>mfw it opens smoothly after all that.
>have NRA sign in yard
>get car keyed by random angry libruls
>have soccer mom next door scream at you about muh gun violens
>come home from work to find that Tyrone and DeShawn have broken in and fucked up your whole house looking for dem gats
See I don't have any NRA signs and I carry everyday, yet no little thugs have tried stealing them. It may be because I chased a group of hoodlems down with my AR15 and most of my neighbors know I'm a crazy veteran who doesn't take his pills.
the burglar who comes to rob your house will just let the dog outside, no muss no fuss. Then when the police come theyll shoot it...
get a parrot instead, theyre as loud as a dog, and less likely to be shot by the "good" guys
Depends on the dog's training. Most dogs will take issue to a stranger kicking in the door.
Plus it's a deterrent, not a response. If you hear a big dog barking on the inside of the door, you're going to move on.
Meanwhile in the apartment: the suspect has flushed all of the drugs down the toilet, taken a shower to remove any evidence, and is catching up on Breaking Bad for a way to escape the police.
L brackets secured to studs on either side at middle of door height, 2x6 brace
I can't remember the name but it's basically the pin from a hasp except it goes downward in to your floor joust
If you want one for the top amount a 4x6 above the door and do the same thing
You can also secure a 2x4 to the back of the door, another to the ground behind the door(leaving enough room to open the door), and wedge more 2x4s in between them.
Only break ins I usually see on doors involve prying the framE to to get the lock past the jamb, taking the whole door out with an improvised battering ram, busting the knob off and opening it with a needle nose and a flathead, and cutting the door. What I suggested has stopped all of those, cutting the door or driving a car through it can't be guaranteed though. I did the wedge and a single 2x4 cross brace on a house the fbi was training in. I did it at just the right spot though, after trying and failing for 20 minutes they finally grabbed a chainsaw, it was a matter of seconds then. The thing is though that someone breaking in at 3 am won't have a chainsaw, maybe an angle grinder or sawzall, but with multiple points and enough thickness the job becomes increasingly difficult and more time consuming.
For windows, 2x4s snug at either side of the of the window(in line with the part that holds the glass, not in the middle where the glass can be forced and shattered). Won't work for breaking a window, but broken glass is enough to get someone caught.
For breaking the glass there's bars, you can do some things with wood but it's ugly.
Glass blocks in the basement Windows are nice, but it's still glass and will break with a hammer shot, it just takes more swings to clear enough of them.
The key thing to remember is that if someone really wanted to get in they'd find a way. Nothing is absolutely secure. If may take planning, skills, and the right tools, but there is someone out there with the skills and desperation to do it.
AND you can buy hinges that are like that - with interlocking pins so that even if the whole hinge-pin-region is cut off with an Angle-grinder the two remaing plates will still stay in alignment.
But for most people a simple 'non-removable' hinge-pin will do ; if somebody is going to attack your hinge with an angle-grinder then they have got the time anyway.
But remember many windows can be lifted-out once they are open a small amount.
Newer windows have a spacer in the top-track that prevents lift-out - OR you can put a few strategic screws through the top-track to prevent lift-out unless the Window is FULLY open.
Speaking from experience here managing corporate security, these are my recommendations for residential settings
1. Biometric or keycard locks,
2. Reinforced doorframes with heavy duty steel hinges and deadbolt, solid core doors
3. Anti-shatter/blast film on all windows at ground level
4. Cameras with an IR illuminator positioned at all entry/exit points and facing the street
5. DVR that can record at least 2 days, preferably a week of footage
6. All valuable items in a fireproof safe bolted to the floor
7. Glass break and open/close sensors on all entry/exit points
8. A gun with hollow point or frangible ammo
And if you want to get really /diy/ you can buy your own access control panel and connect everything to it so you can do stuff like open doors remotely and monitor temperature etc.
>in an anti burglary thread
They have fire and burglary rated safes for a reason.
OP, most of these people in this thread are fucking clueless. Go read UNCs or Cromwells study on burglars to figure out what they actually avoid and don't like.
The use of lethal booby traps is illegal in all 50 states. Again, most of these people in this thread, and perhaps forum, are fucking clueless.
Alarms and dogs are the most effective passive, i.e. knowledge beforehand, and active, i.e. knowledge after the fact, deterrents based on the findings of the UNC Charlotte and Cromwell studies.
Removing hinge pins wouldn't be an issue then. They'd be on the inside. The right way to reinforce hinges is replacing the 1" screws going into the door and frame. Only 2 per hinge into the frame side though. Anymore and you risk pulling the frame back too far and potentially binding the door.
Even if they had inside access on a select few deadbolts limit access to the screws. Medeco and MulTLock only have caps covering them that can be easily pried. Hell even Arrow, who has covers that rotate over the screw when locked, gives an obvious drill point to the screws.
Don't live in a shitty place and you don't even have to worry about security. And become good friends with your neighbor.
>The key thing to remember is that if someone really wanted to get in they'd find a way. Nothing is absolutely secure. If may take planning, skills, and the right tools, but there is someone out there with the skills and desperation to do it.
Maybe so, but they're so rare you're better off not worrying about them.
These threads are always so stupid.
People treat burglars like they're the FBI.
Burglars don't pick locks, or spend 30 minutes battering a door.
If you want to keep a burglar out of your house do the following.
Secure your windows when you leave.
Have a steel exterior door.
Securely attach the door.
Have a good quality deadbolt.
Have a dog.
Have a security system.
Have a sign that says you have a security system.
The sign alone will keep any burglars away unless they know you don't have one (you tell people) or unless they know you have something extremely valuable (drugs, stashes of money). They have no way of knowing you don't actually have a security system, the guy who robs your house isn't the crew from your heist films.
Same with a dog. A criminal isn't going to risk getting fucking mauled by a dog, he's going to go to your neighbor's house instead.
If a burglar spends more than 5 minutes trying to kick in your door, he's going to run off because he has no way of knowing if someone heard it.
If the FBI/Police is trying to get in, you're not going to stop them so you might as well go full Waco and burn the place down.
Leave my doors unlocked and a radio on low when I'm not home. Never been burgled yet. Oh and I don't invite drug users into my house. That's pretty much the only reason you get robbed in australia
You don't need 3" screws in all 12 holes. 6 is fine without changing how the door currently is.
No carpenter failed me; I'm the one putting in doors and I, like a number of other professionals, agree with the installation instructions of the StrikeMaster II. There is a reason it's a product that's been duplicated by many.