also welcome: Windows 2000, Mac OS 1.x-9.x
also also welcome: IRIX, SunOS, AIX, VMS, MVS, etc
tolerated: PowerPC OS X
fuck off: XP, Intel OS X
>you will never have to deal with huge bulky monitors and half ton computers
>you will never have to wait until no one is on the phone to use the near empty internet
>you will never have to deal with installation diskette 3 of 4 being corrupted
>you will never be annoyed by your hard drive that sounds like a combination of a 747 and a minigun
>you will never have to listen to your modem scream and warble for ~1 minute before it acquires a connection
>you will never have to deal with the young, unsupported and near functionless Linux kernel
It feels so fucking good.
I'm actually in the process of Peroxiding the entire case right now with a 80% solution,
I'll take a photo when I get home to show you the results,
Great computer none the less
Hey how is it going using your 200 pound unix boxes? Sunpci ftw
I've never seen one of these in action.
Do they have access to the other devices in the PCI slots on the same motherboard?
Can they work in a modern computer?
And why are they so god damn expensive on ebay?
>tfw have the same model but it's not compatible with my Blade 100 or 150
You can either hook up a separate monitor/keyboard to them and use them standalone or use software to run Win2k/9x on them in a window on Solaris. I don't know about PCI device access, they won't run in anything modern though as far as I'm aware, mine will only run on Solaris 8 or older.
SunPCis are basically a cheap AMD K6 shitbox on a card, and they share disk space with the host system.
still bretty good for running Win2K and Office or whatever else you need, though
I make just over $800/month at $9.25/hr ($7.81 after taxes) and the fact that I only work ~20-25 hours/week because we run out of work early all the time.
That, and that thing is huge. I'd have no where to put it.
How would you even ship that thing? It looks like it would weigh as much as me, if not more.
But if I did have the money, I wouldn't hesitate.
I just looked up the manual.
118lbs Maximum weight.
Up to two UltraSPARC II CPUs and 2GB RAM
Honestly this thing is about as fast as the old Dell sitting next to me from 2005.
(No, not my main PC)
There really isn't one.
Everything this system could do in terms of processing power and available software could be done on my PC way faster.
Though, I would like to play around with an old SGI system. Probably an Indigo2 or an old Indy.
As far as I know, there are no emulators capable of running SGI software.
It's has wheels :) the good things about it are it has awesome security features and like I mentioned can run the sunpci which I have installed. It also accepts 6 hot swap scsi drives it took 2 people to get it up my stairs. It's pretty rare too and the prices are fucking absurd so that's why I'm not scrapping it
I don't think there are any SPARC emulators either, I really like the look of older sun gear though.
If you go SGI, get an O2, Indigo2s are okay but the ones with software are 3expensive, O2s are still pretty good and don't need special monitors.
I wish I could find some decent sun gear here, I only find low-end workstations like Ultra 5s.
Half of you had yet to be born when these bad boys we're in their prime.
Commodore Amiga 1000
A/UX is pretty neat, a mac compatible (kinda) UNIX (kinda)
I assume this is one of the reasons. This is what you get if you execute one of the coreutils in the Finder.
I can get and share more screenshots if anyone is interested.
Other thread was baleeted, so bump with Terminator II Pocket PC.
Apple IIe, stolen from an old school here in Italy...
Just installed Windows 3.1 and Calmira on my Toshiba T3100e just because.
Runs like absolute dogshit on the 286 with 1MB RAM with Calmira open.
My Riva TNT2 just came. I really do think this is a Pro now. a plain TNT2 would've had a slower core and memory clock. This one matches up with what the Pro should be clocked at.
Don't think it matters that much as supposedly, these were easy to overclock.
>all those SE/30s
I only have a Classic, /retro/ ;_;
Also, I think we should create an IRC. I mean, all OSes listed in the OP post can run an IRC client of SOME sort.
Heh, I have a photo of mine doing the exact same thing here.
Nice little XT
here is mine!
I have been a mac user since birth, love Mac OS 9 and ppc os x. Why not lisa os/apple dos too?
noice 3.5'' FDD
I'm still trying to find a copy of SyTOS to get my tape drive working ;_;
NVRAM is fucked on all three and I haven't ordered new chips for them yet, two SS2s and an SS10 (with no hard drive)
This is tomato my 286 at clone~
64 shades of greyscale, Win 3.11
Need to find a good PCMCIA type 2 ethernet for it
Reminder that Computer Chronicles exists and deals with /retro/ computers from 1980s to early 2000s.
Has episodes on OS's (Win 95, 3.1, Some macs all got dedicated episodes) Web Browsers, Games, Hardware (Including very old laptops, and the Apple ][ in the 80s.)
I also remember one about a touch-screen 5150.
Look about, you'll probably find one that interests you personally - they're almost all on youtube.
I like that we had touch-screen systems in '83 (and even in this, Stuart notes that touch-screens aren't a new technology), yet it took so long for mainstream use to begin.
To an extent, I wish it had been longer. ;-;
They work pretty well in restaurants where host/ess types are already standing but you'd get gorilla-arm trying to use one while sitting at a desk. Same with light-pen tech for pointing.
Sony VAIO C1 Picturebook with Window ME. Might consider to convert it into a portable linux laptop but need to check the spec can handle i.t
>It brings Windows 3.1 up to date with some of the advanced user interface enhancements from the Windows world
Why does this even exist.
> captcha: sksday
> /k/ would be happy
Is that an ALPS Apple keyboard?
If you want to get into programming on that beast, check this out:
Probably posted this a million times already, but in addition to that sexy Plasma display, the Toshiba T3100e has a mechanical keyboard by Alps. The feeling is about 80% MX Red, 20% MX Brown.
Got the T3100e for $20 at the flea market a month ago, also found the ThinkPad 701C the same day for $15.
>>you will never be annoyed by your hard drive that sounds like a combination of a 747 and a minigun
My SCSI equipped PowerMac G3 sounds like a helicopter taking off whenever I do a fsck, or when I'm upgrading a bunch of packages.
I remember that one. I looked at it first in an apartment store in Mexico. It had a Pentium III and the standard (for the time) Windows 98. It was 2000 or 2001 I think. It was like $2000 dollars.
I'm still floored that it's finally emulatable.
You're the anon with the Nichijou mac? Neato.
someone mistook me for you because I'd set up System 7 to look like pic related (which is only in emulation)
There's people on Nekochan that still daily drive Octanes and O2s, you can run all of your favorite *nix software on them plus SGI exclusives and they are ridiculously over-specced for their time.
I can still surf 4chan on my base-spec Indigo2 that rolled out of the factory in October 1993.
stretched gif as background image
I installed w2k server beta on a 486 with 32 megs of ram
I dunno if there's much that actually requires A/UX to run. As far as I know, it's just System 6 (System 7 for A/UX 3.x) with Unix underpinnings. You could build Unix software of the era on it and you could run the wide selection of Mac apps.
as for compile shit like alpine, I really doubt it
I'm really trying to think of what recent software you could build on it.
But why not use some P3 box from the late 90's that have ISA slots then?
It's not like the programs would have to be changed around, so long as the OS they run on (which I'm assuming is probably DOS or an ancient version of Linux) runs on the P3 box.
~$100 vs $700 is quite a deal if you ask me.
>nobody wants to virtualize interfaces like SCSI
Linus fucking loves SCSI emulation so much, that all block devices use it (e.g. /dev/sd*)
Software is written in x86 Assembly to be accurate down to the clock for each processor
A P3 goes faster than a 486 and doesn't do the same stuff
Don't blame me, blame Electrical Engineers that think that everything will be the same forever and never stop to think about portability
RTCs were a thing well into the 286 era, but when you write your shit to work with a specific hardware set you can fuck it up hard when you move to an infinitely faster chip like a Pentium III or even a higher-clocked 486
>system is worth 20-40 grand
>dependent on hard to find parts that cost hundreds of hundreds of dollars
>code was written with no portability
Jeez what a mess.
This is why people started writing programs in C/C++
So what are you gonna do in about 20-25 years when this 486 bites the dust and the only ones left around are in museums?
Though, I do remember seeing a program that could make older programs that were written to work with a specific clock rate run slower but the name alludes me at the moment.
>Though, I do remember seeing a program that could make older programs that were written to work with a specific clock rate run slower but the name alludes me at the moment.
There is a lot of those.
Mo'Slo, Bremze, SLOWDOWN, AT-SLOW, CPUKiller, MySlow, PentSlow, VariSlow, et. al.
If we are spending more on repairs than it would cost to lease a newer one we will stop repairing it. Purely an economic derision and a very easy one at that. Have had the machines for over a decade and we got them used... Only one has had a MB/CPU failure Another has had a variable frequency spindle driver go out but all in all they are quite low maintenance.
I like the PC based shit a hell of a lot better than ge/fanuc where everything is proprietary. With the pc gear I swap out the floppy with a 2gb ide sd card adapter.
The fanuc machine we have was designed for punch tape (^_^) punch tape fed to it from RS-232, new laptop did not have RS-232, no problem they make wireless adapters that interface via Bluetooth.
I have the repair manual with schematics of every board along with vendors and vendor part numbers. Most things I can find on my own. Sometimes I have to call them up and order from a distributor which sucks.
That's not how insurance works buddy. Also anything can be fixed. You just have to decide when its worth it or not.
The motherboard is on a card plugged into an ISA back plane. The thing actually has a solid state rom isa board that it boots from. There is a pata hdd too but it only holds the nc files and some of the configs. Quite a rugged design.
I love it when they have standard PC hardware driving machinery. Makes it so much easier to work with.
Fun Fact: The program that missile silos use is still loaded from an 8" floppy.
I love these. I have an Amiga 500 but the problem is the keyboard seems to have some broken columns so the column 1QAZ won't work at all.
I don't know if it might be because of some unknown stains on the foil with traces to the buttons or it might be just a cut trace but I haven't noticed anything like that.
Try to clean it, and it it still doesn't work, check for a keyboard replacement in Amiga Kit:
finally got my vga>scart cable working proper
the trouble i was having with sync was caused by a loose/dirty scart plug/port, wiggling it around a bit got it going
i spent far too long trying to figure that out... guess that's what happens with 15 year old gear
surprisingly the cable is largely just wire-for-wire, bar the usb cable, which has a few resistors i tore out of a broken vcr that bring the voltage below 3v for use as an RGB-enable wire
The front looks like the PVM 20L4 I have. With the backlit buttons and all. Looking at those pictures, it seems they used a pretty-much identical faceplate. Although like every PVM, it's deep as hell, and only has BNC(RGB/YpBpr)/S-Video input.
I see. The Profeel doesn't seems to have any BNC input jack, only RCA for the sound and composite video, Mini-Din for S-Video and SCART/Jap-RGB21 for RGB.
Personally, I'm searching for pic related (same as >>43014625), could it be a 27 or 21 model. I just love the way it looks, and it must have a great picture quality.
A nice mixture of old and new. This is a Mac LC550 I recovered from my uni's physics department. Not pictured: a stack of 20meg hdd's and floppys.
How much do you allow yourself to spend on old computers?
I've been looking around, but anything 486, amiga, or old mac is a little too expensive I think. I don't really have that many friends, so I get very few freebies.
Last I got was some shitty old LCD from my fathers workplace.
The system's fully loaded and they didn't even wipe student files. I also grabbed a Mac SE, but had to dump it due to extensive damage. I don't know how they stored their systems but the external drives had rubber feet and they melted into the casing and onto the boards.
That's a lot cheaper than here. 60 bucks would at best give me an amiga 500 in poor shape.
Last night I saw someone try to sell a 486dx2 based "gaming PC" for about 150-200 dollars.
I would expect to find a generic PC like that for free. Just the parts are a lot cheaper on ebay.
>anon, you were never using that PS1 system with a shitload of games for it anyways
Man I love amiga demos:
There's something funny you can see when watching Amiga and PC demos: on Amiga, 2D stuff are smoother than 3D, that's understandable, but when you watch a PC demo, 3D stuff is smoother than even a simple scrolling.
u guys actually pay for this shit?
the old software is kinda cool, would be nice to reverse engineer and emulate it (or run natively through custom-made drivers and kernel extensions), but the old hardware is objectively terrible today
Irix user reporting in.
Was running Quake II on the Onyx last night but a breakdown has forced me to use the O2 until replacement parts come in.
An old car can still drive fine, albeit more expensively than a new one.
A new building may work, though may require greater expense for renovations and inefficiencies.
An old computer cannot do what is even mildly expected today. It's like buying a broom and proclaiming usefulness over vacuums.
It's mostly hobby computing, for some people there is something attracting about these machines, not just because it's "old", but because of the way they're designed, the way the various manufacturer were experimenting.
Like old cars, these computers still run fine, even if it's slower than new ones. It's just that we don't run them for the same purpose.
rad, knowing the price of the license of a single of those discs, too, that's something you got there, but sure it's not worth shit today, just collector's.
Save for the modem it was all bought for $80 from a business who apparently digitized old media. I spend more time browsing or messing with Softimage 3D because there's a GL bug when you play quake on the graphics chipset.
I'm switching over from floppies to these devils.
You can do everything except for internet, like >>43019928 said.
and even still, you can probably get IRC up
I've actually considered getting a RasPi to hook older systems up to so they'd telnet into it over serial and it'd connect to the internet for them.
Of course, I'd need some older systems (my original idea was to use a RasPi as a wifi box for an old 68k PowerBook that I had my eye on).
I was speaking on the Kx **hv1 models; Physically they are nearly exact matches for the 2030 and 2520.
Those Kx**ps1 models look familiar to some mid to late 80s PVMs, specifically with those protective outer panels, but I can't seem to remember the model number.
I really need to get something like that put together so I can pipe some low res animu out to my PVM. 480i from the PS3 looks alright, but it could be so much better.
So many photos, so many ruined by moire patterns and redraw.
Why not check ebay?
also, for the love of christ don't get a Mac with less than 4MB RAM, that shit is suffering
and don't try to use System 7 on a Mac slower than 16MHz, that's also suffering
why am I now hard
Yeah, but it's shit. They can browse but they can't really do much of anything that the average person is doing on their systems today.
But if you just want to do other stuff, like word processing, spreadsheeting, email, etc, you could do that on a 486 with no problem.
>An old car can still drive fine, albeit more expensively than a new one.
Not if it's a Model T-ford - it doesn't even do what's mildly expected today in terms of ride-comfort or speed!
People just play with them for fun. The hardware in itself is fun to play with. You wouldn't use a model-t for a serious business trip either.
i still haven't quite nailed down the reason why i don't get such well-defined scanlines like you do (really mine are practically non-existant)
that's a photo of a PVM, right? i realize those are professional monitors, and can expect something about them to be better
but what is it? is my tv just not accurate enough/not sharp enough, and therefore bleeds out all the lines?
is it because the color mask in my tv is arranged in a staggered pattern?
am i missing some setting/tweak i can attempt/perform to help this?
I'm going to assume that is somewhere around a 13-15in set, yes? Scanlines are less apparent on smaller screens.
>is it because the color mask in my tv is arranged in a staggered pattern?
Yes; Your set is a shadow mask(as the great majority of CRT TVs are) where as mine is aperture grille. The fact that it is professional monitor and is much sharper does help in the matter but Sony's Trinitron line (and copy-tron variants) have especially well defined scanlines, and are the style that most emulators/filters have tried to, well, emulate.
You're not likely to see readily visible scanlines on shadow/slotmask sets unless they're getting close to 30in.
I already linked the album with a good majority of my photos of the PVM in >>43022621 , but here's some scanlines showing on a 35in Toshiba.
>am i missing some setting/tweak i can attempt/perform to help this?
Even with absolutely perfect convergence/geometry/etc(which is, for all intents and purposes, impossible on CRTs) you can't change the physics of the matter that each line of the image being drawn to the screen is going to be very close to the next when using such a small CRT.
Add fake scanlines to your image and display it in what would effectively be 120p?
thanks for the hints
i do get somewhat visible scanlines in darker areas of the image
>Add fake scanlines to your image and display it in what would effectively be 120p?
yea, can't see that being too much use
can't add lines in 480i either for obvious reasons, and 480p is also out of the question (besides, 480p w/ fake scanlines would pretty much result in the same thing as 240p, on-screen, wouldn't it?)
so it seems my tv's picture settings has brightness and contrast swapped around
lowering the brightness ("contrast") makes the scanlines far more visible (which, by watching it go down, is clearly a result of color bleed, which itself, is as you say, too small a gap for a tube of this quality/mask to keep properly seperated)
>can't see that being too much use
Yeah, it was just a bit of a joke to be honest. I'm sure there's someone out there who would go through the trouble of it though, for one reason or another.
>480p w/ fake scanlines would pretty much result in the same thing as 240p, on-screen, wouldn't it?
Visually it would look quite close, aside from small differences in brightness and bloom. I've seen several people in /vr/'s CRT Thread do just that (with PC monitors of course) some very nice results.
>too small a gap for a tube of this quality/mask to keep properly separated
Your tube looks to have quite good convergence and sharpness(partially due to using a high quality signal). It's just a matter of size and screen type, which isn't even a con, more so of a preference.
>i recognize the top of that S!, i hear you say
>Your tube looks to have quite good convergence and sharpness(partially due to using a high quality signal). It's just a matter of size and screen type, which isn't even a con, more so of a preference.
well that's good to hear i suppose, so it's not that anything's *bad* per-se, just different
i was kinda hoping to see sharp scanlines like in arcade machines, but tbh i'm not really sure if i could play a game for a long period with them (at least, the kind that are pure black)
changing the brightness has encouraged me to use something other than the default 50% though, not minimum as above (too dim, maybe alright at midnight), but something reasonable (was actually pretty damn bright before, clearly meant for longer viewing distance, not the 1.5 metres between my desk and bed...)
at this more resonable brightness the scanlines are still noticable, so that's nice
where you say preference, is it not possible to deliberately cause bleed on your PVM? (or do you mean in general, others just prefer a blended-in image with no lines)
ps. what are you doing to take those pictures? i can't seem to convince my camera to take an image half as good as what the crt is actually displaying
incase you're wondering, yes i got this tv a couple days ago
and yes i got it after reading that it was possible to hook them up through vga
i'd looked into rgb mods on real consoles before, but didn't even consider vga could be used for it, too
>where you say preference, is it not possible to deliberately cause bleed on your PVM?
I could probably turn the brightness way up(which is something you should never do for any period of time with a CRT) and open the aperture(currently all the way down) would make it bloom quite heavily and bleed into eacher a bit.
What I meant by preference is there are people that prefer shadowmasks over aperture grilles. I've never had a chance to see a decent shadowmask displaying RGB, so I can't really compare on that level; The pure amount of pixel clarity has given me quite an attraction to trinitrons however.
>what are you doing to take those pictures?
Absolutely light in the room other than the CRT itself, lowest ISO setting my shitty point'n'shoot will allow, a steady hand/pile of boxes in place of a tripod, and quite a bit of luck.
When I first started taking photos of the PVM(and had really no knowledge of how to properly use a camera at all) I had a shit|good/usable ratio of something like 30:1; Nowadays, when I'm not getting stupid amounts of noise and/or banding from the low quality camera, and the image doesn't come out with a moire pattern covering 90% of the screen, I'd like to think it's closer to 8:1.
>I can't seem to convince my camera to take an image half as good as what the crt is actually displaying
Just one of the things you have to accept when trying to photograph CRTs. It is always going to look better in person than it does in a photo.
>i'd looked into rgb mods on real consoles before
There are a few caveats to this, but many consoles will readily give an RGB signal with no modification at all, just the right cable.
I think the photos in this thread looks a lot better than my TV. Everything looks a little blurry, even when using RGB SCART. Composite looks worse, but RGB isn't as good as it was on my previous TV.
I guess one nice thing about this is that text doesn't look pixelated.
i guess there's really no way to decide until i find an aperture grille display to play with
>>It is always going to look better in person than it does in a photo.
>lowest ISO setting
which, out of curiosity? i've been using a shutter speed a little slower than the current vsync rate, else i end up getting bars
i also have:
dark areas visible = light areas blown out
light areas fine = dark areas too dark
it's almost as if the crt has kickass contrast or something
yea, i was kinda surprised to see that, i'd previously mainly been looking at murrican versions of games/consoles (despite not being murrican), simply because most PAL things are just hacked up NTSC things made to "work" in PAL
but (some) PAL regions have scart, which i now know is pretty nice (in that it's a standardized way of getting RGBs in consumer gear)
These photos are very heavily cherry picked from everything that I've taken, and like you said before, it is a professional monitor.
>Composite looks worse, but RGB isn't as good as it was on my previous TV
The wording of this has me a tad confused; Perhaps the use of but in that position.
I'm going to assume that you're in Europe, in which case finding another CRT with SCART should be piss easy.
>which, out of curiosity?
The cheap point'n'shoot I have has a ISO 64 setting for its general photo setting, but I usually end up going with ISO 100 in its Close Up mode.
Windows seems to be telling me that it's actually going somewhere between an ISO in the high 90s, and nearly 200(I'm going to assume these were taken with ISO selection set to automatic). The same seems to be happening with exposure and a few other settings.
Unsurprisingly, the better photos all seem to be floating around ISO 100 and 1/16 exposure(as it should be for 60hz refresh).
I would like to get the GUI up and running but I can't figure it out.
>it's almost as if the crt has kickass contrast
A good CRT should have pretty damn good contrast.
I tend to adjust exposure bias as needed, which seems to happen a lot with SNES games in particular; Everything is always so bright.
>but (some) PAL regions have scart, which i now know is pretty nice (in that it's a standardized way of getting RGBs in consumer gear)
They didn't change the video output connectors between regions. A SCART cable made for a PAL SNES will and does work fine with an NTSC(U) SNES with a few minor modifications. Can't seem to remember off the top of my head, but it's either a few resistors or capacitors on the video lines, nothing more. I bought mine already modified, but it's something that could easily be done yourself. The photo of Super Metroid is RGB from an american SNES1. Spyro is component from a PS2, though you can get RGB out of it or an american PS1 just as easily.
RGB isn't as good as I expected, but it looks worse with composite. Is this more clear?
>in which case finding another CRT with SCART should be piss easy
It is. People usually give them away for free. It is big, heavy, and they want it gone.
first quote there isn't me
>The cheap point'n'shoot...
okay, that's quite low, my compact can go up to 1600, while i haven't had a chance yet to try a lot of setting, between 40 and 80 has been alright so far, there's other setting that'll probably help, but i'd have to some trial and error with them since i'm not really an expert on either cameras nor crts
>A good CRT should have pretty damn good contrast.
heh, that was a joke, this crt blows away my shitty average lcd i use as a computer monitor when it comes to contrast, easily
>They didn't change the video output connectors between regions.
yea, my comment is more that the term "scart" and "rgb" never came up
i grew up in nz, which is a pal region, but scart is non-existant there, been in australia a few years now, but didn't know scart showed up here until i got back from picking up this tv and noticed the port on the back (which lead to some research)
>still has a massive share of the desktop market
>implying support from Microsoft has anything to do with retro-status
m8 you can discuss XP elsewhere on /g/, it isn't retro and it won't be for a long time
It could be that that particular CRT had had a hard life and seen a significant number of hours.
>It is big, heavy, and they want it gone.
That's how I got the 32in Trinitron that is currently blocking the stairs to the attic. Too heavy to move easily, too large to make of use anywhere in the house currently, and you can't even throw them away easily at this point.
I think this model will do the same, but it looks like complete horse shit with anything over 400 or 600; I don't use them, so I can't really say much.
>i'd have to some trial and error with them since i'm not really an expert on either cameras nor crts
That's exactly what I ended up doing. I'm neither of those, I've just been picking things up along the way as needed.
Yeah, from what I've heard, while there was limited SCART support seen in Australia, it seems to have been scattered about. Better than being in the US; only thing that came with SCART here was a small line of consoles tvs in the mid 80s; Dimension and their EIA Multiport.
One popped up for free early this year, but I sadly had no way to get it; Would have been a nice antique if nothing else.
I have no idea what's going on there, maybe a messed up config file or QEMU doesn't support it very well.
Have you tried TME?
Nathan Lineback (toastytech) used it to run SunOS for his GUIs page.
My XT in >>42997492 was still daily driven until 2010
You'll also probably see it a lot in Industrial control or businesses still running old legacy software.
Apparently the creator of pic-related still uses an Amiga today.
Not sure if true.
We don't like to talk about the furry.
Just another one of the set of pictures I've yet to get up on flickr.
NXengine core running in Retroarch Wii in 240p.
I've got a slightly better photo that I'd post, but this one seems to fit your question better.
There is yet another, in quality similar to the Super Metroid photo above, but it's a bit too samey as it's another text box of Sue.
Once I get around to getting/making a cable, I'm likely going to get a dedicated box for it.
Likely a p4 and an ati 9600 I have lying around; If the mobo hadn't died on me, I'd just use the old Dell which fit that description exactly. Worked quite nicely up until I planned to and was able to replace it with my current PC at the end of 2011.
Here's what it looks like on my 1024x600 netbook
I think it'll be a good chance to actually get some experience with linux; Should also be less complicated to get going. No idea on which distro I'll end with; Something simple to start with for sure.
Could even dual boot.
Also, thanks for giving me a reason to post the photo I mentioned before.
Straight VGA (under the original 1987 IBM spec) supports CGA/EGA modes plus 320x200x256, 640x480x2, and 640x480x16 with 256k of VRAM. The card consists of a single controller IC plus RAM, BIOS ROM, and TTL chips to attach it to the ISA bus.
Attempted to restore a Gateway P5-166 (Pic related, not my image) for a fun sleeper project (I only have the case, someone gutted the internals before I could get it) but the plastic has not aged well and most of the plastic slots that held the front panel onto the metal case have broken off. It's yellowed horribly well so it will need a peroxide bath and an entire cleaning before I do anything to it.
After that I began work on loosening the hinges off a Powerbook 150 that have seized up but I have had no luck so far in loosening it to a point where it does not crack the front bezel. Sadly however the previous owner did not take care of it.
i'm using arch, but it's my normal os, nothing dedicated
there are a couple arcade-oriented distros around, which even come configured for use with 15khz monitors
though i'd personally prefer to configure one myself, feels more personal that way
>there are a couple arcade-oriented distros around
GroovyMAME or something similar is the one I've heard of.
As it stands now, my experience with linux is a few months of extremely casual use of Mint when Windows kept getting stuck in a restart loop.
For SVGA modes, there is no standardization for the memory and register mapping, which is why all cards need their own special drivers to run Windows in modes above 640x480x16. The VESA standard defined SVGA modes as 640x480x256, 800x600, 1024x768, and 1280x1024, but there was (as I said) no standard for the low-level hardware implementation of them.
Some SVGA cards also do things like fudge 1024x768 via interlacing; these modes cannot be used with LCD monitors.
Since VESA 2.0, all video cards can also remap their RAM into extended memory, usually some extremely high place in the CPU address space to avoid conflicting with applications. For example, in the Windows 9x era, cards would put their VRAM at like 1FFFFF (335MB) although some motherboards didn't have all 32 address lines connected so it didn't always work (there was usually a utility program to map the memory down lower if that happened)
In real mode DOS programming, the VGA buffer is at A000:0000 and only 64k can be accessed at a time so hi-res modes use bank switching. When doing protected mode programming, you would use the GDT to swap RAM in and out of extended memory to write to the A000 buffer since it can't be directly accessed in pmode. This is how Windoze uses 640x480x16 and the other lower video modes. SVGA modes on the other hand have linear VRAM placed somewhere in XMS memory so no banking or other trickery.
Some SVGA cards actually don't map anything into A000/B800, they just intercept all read/write operations there and redirect them to the real video RAM.
Likely look into various USB adapters for using actual controllers; I've already got one for the Classic Control Pro that works nicely. I'm sure I could find a way to get it working under linux.
Not sure if linux has support for SCP and the like for DS3 usage though.
A arcade stick would be a really neat idea as well.
Driver package need to get it working properly with Windows.
USB is alright, but I'd really like the benefit from the bluetooth capability of the controller to just relax in bed without having to worry about a 8+ foot long USB cable.
looks like ds3 is supported by bluez natively (bluez being the main bluetooth system in linux), just need a seperate tool to do the pairing part (like how you need to plug a controller in to a new ps3 so it recognizes it)
Cool, I didn't know you could draw furry porn on an Amiga
This question may be out of place but you guys probably have experience with this kind of thing:
I have a powerbook g3 I got at a garage sale with what I'm guessing is a fucked NVRAM battery, these things are rare and expensive, so would I be able to just tear apart the battery and replace the cells with standard rechargeable coin cells?
You could try running Windows 2000 natively on modern hardware with kernel extensions. There's this Japanese guy who spends his free time porting DLL dependencies in Windows XP to Windows 2000.