Hey /g/, the sales are starting to hit and I want to start pulling the trigger on my first build. How does this look? Anything wrong?
Not bad at all. I'd go for 1x8gb for ram instead of 2x4, so you can upgrade to 16gb in the future. Otherwise you should be fine.
I wouldn't worry about getting a fully modular psu. The only thing thats not modular is the 24pin and the 8pin, which he needs. Also, blacks may be better, but he's getting an ssd anyway, so speed might not be the highest concern on the storage drive
I really need help with the motherboard
I was told not to spend over 120$ let alone 100$ because I will most likely not even utilize most of the power , I'm not looking to overclock yet I bought stuff just in case . First time builder and very nervous but I have help from a friend who has been doing this for decades .
I need help /g/
Id probably go with a smaller case, full towers are way to big, not saying go matx/itx but probably better off with a mid so you dont feel so bad when you glance over at your monolith. As for the mobo just get the cheapest atx one you can find, if you plan to sli you can get the gigabyte z97x sli, its not shit and loaded up with useless features and itll match your color scheme
>full towers are way to big
If you live in the bedroom you grew up in inside your mommy's house maybe. But if you are an adult then a full tower is a place to put beautiful water cooling.
i've got to ask this here - i'm experiencing artifacts in some games(VRM temperature reaches 70c or so) - i can think of 3 reasons why:
- CPU gets too hot, (and it is pretty close to graphic card) -> mediecore airflow -> graphic card gets too hot
- faulty graphic card
- not enough juice from PSU
2x sata HDD
intel i7 3770k (stock cooler)
asus maximus V formula (ridcershit i know)
Silencio 550 case
sapphire radeon HD 7970 (dual X version)
650W PSU (bequiet)
i would love to get confirmation for any of those possible reasons before i spend my jewgelds on replacement parts, or before i RMA my card.
theres the msi z97 pc mate and the g55 sli, not sure if id get those with a windowed case since you will regret it when you see the clashing colors, with mobos you can pretty much just go for the color scheme matching and whether or not you want sli or onboard ethernet etc
Here's my build, I already have a number of the parts. I'm just slowly getting all the parts together since I don't need the computer for another two months and I don't wanna fork out such a massive amount in one lump sum. I figured I'd buy the gpu last just incase something new comes out or price drop on the gtx 980
first build so going for a budget pc
The Pentium G3258, I want it and I want it now. However, muh hyperthreading. Seems I'll be doing 0 gaming and only using it for development (Visual Studio and Android SDK) and general fucking around, will I really miss the hyperthreading? €60 this bad boy costs.
Or should I just man up and splurge (poorfag confirmed) the extra €50 on an i3320?
An OCed 3258 is just as fast as a locked i3. However, if you went with the i3 you wouldn't have to spend nearly as much on the motherboard nor would you really need an aftermarket cooler.
If you could squeeze $20-$30 more into your budget, you could get a much faster setup in the form of this.
Your CPU will bottleneck the 280x, even while overclocked to 4.5 GHz. I wouldn't go higher than a 270x. Also I'd go with at least a 500W power supply, as the AMD cards are more power hungry.
Thoughts on this? Still not sure exactly which GPU I want to get. I don't plan on overclocking immediately, but I want the option to later, which is why I chose the K but no fan.
Not exactly the word I'd use but okay. He could also go with this. A used 280x could be a consideration as well, and would be quite a bit cheaper.
>implying Hawaii = all of AMD's cards
Only the 290 and 290X are truly power hungry. The rest use nowhere near as much.
I'm only asking! Seriously though, shit doesn't need to be lightning fast, once it runs smoothly and at a reasonable speed I'm happy.
The "people" who are warning me off it are workmates who fuck and blind their machine out of it if a command isn't executed immediately, and i do mean immediately.
Hence I'm here, seeking advice because even 4chan is better than the "I'm cursing at my computer therefor I am master wizard programmer" dicks i know.
Thanks for the help. Just saw somewhere else that buying the g leaves the option for upgrading open down the road so i think that seals it.
Considering benchmarks were made with this cpu and a 6 GB GTX Titan I can hardly imagine it doing a bottleneck
Also the estimated wattage seems right, I changed for a 450w power supply
That 290 should be fine, but you could also take into consideration a GTX 970 if you bumped your CPU down to a non-k i5.
You'd need a BIOS update to use the Refresh chips like the 4790k, but the 4770k and 4770 would work perfectly fine. You might actually be able to do a tiny bit of OCing to an unlocked chip after updating the BIOs as well, since MSI, Asrock and ASUS boards support non-Z overclocking now.
what mobo would be best for a beginner using a i5 4690k
I'm already building my pc and just need to buy the gpu and mobo , most likely I'll buy a gtx 970 from Msi or asus but the motherboard is what I'm trying not to break the bank on.
You could invest in a good CPU cooler if you're going to spend that much anyway.
Case seems a bit shitty. The review I looked at said it had misleading specs and that it's too cramped for a water cooler radiator as advertised to be compatible with.
SSD is alright for the price, I guess. Not quite as good as the MX100 but $15 cheaper.
AS Rock z97 Anniversary v MSI PC Mate z97.
Both same price, similar specs except MSI have VGA & DVI. Not sure what I'll be doing monitor wise yet, will prob use tv or buy two shitty old ones hence I like the MSI keeping the options open.
Any reason why I should disregard this and still get the ASRock?
Looks solid anon, not a huge fan of the case. I was looking at an ITX or mATX for my build which is pretty similar to your specswise. Too bad I live in yurop though, these faking prices here jesus.
Yeah I think you're right about the cooler. At this point, an extra 30 bucks isn't going to kill me and it certainly couldn't hurt, especially if I end up overclocking the CPU. Think I'll stick with the SSD I've chosen as well, especially since it's like 75% off right now.
Decided against the case, went with the Corsair 400R instead. Updated model: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/233t4D
Any other suggestions anons?
Guy who suggested a cooler here, Ripjaws RAM have large heatspreaders that will interfere with that heatsink. Either go with a different cooler, or get lower profile RAM.
DDR3-1866 for $64
The manual suggest that for 2 sticks of RAM, you should install in the 2nd and 4th farthest slots. Actually, the 212 Evo and Ripjaws ram might fit together, I know the cooler is wide enough to block large RAM in the slot closest to the CPU, not sure if it also blocks the second closest slot. Picture from your motherboard's manual.
>buy link related now
>or save up a few more thousand while waiting on the 8GB 980s/980Tis/next-gen Titan and do a full tower Tri/Quad SLi 4k rig
The PSU is $70 after MIR, so it's not like he's overpaying by that much
It's safer to go with 1 x 8GB. It's slightly better for performance if you go with 2 x 4GB due to dual channel. Low profile RAM is always an option, but prices now make it a bit more expensive. The issue is that if you decide to upgrade to 16GB in the future for whatever reason, then that means the cooler will still end up blocking slots unless you change coolers or go with low profile RAM.
Great, thanks for the input. Think I'll go with the 8GB just to avoid any issues. I can deal with the slightly worse performance. And the finished product:
Depends on how it's installed. If the cooler is installed with fan horizontally aligned, then it's possible to block two slots, depending on the motherboard. If it's installed with the fan vertically aligned, then only the fan will block the RAM, and it's possible to just remount the fan if you need access to the RAM slots closest to the CPU.
In the 2nd picture you can see that the guy had to move the fan higher to let the RAM fit underneath.
A couple of questions.
Why the different fan?
I was thinking of getting the Gigabyte Z97 Gaming, is it better or worse than the one you recommended?
Does the ram matter, or are all manufacturers pretty much the same?
Is the Gigabyite 970 the best out of the manufacturers or is it mostly prefrence?
Is the case you put better than the antec? Asking this because I have an antec now, but it's fairly old.
Also, the screen is 60hz, does that matter?
I know this may seem like I'm trolling but I haven't looked into PC parts for 6 years.
>Why the different fan?
It's just a few dollars more than the U12S and performs better.
>I was thinking of getting the Gigabyte Z97 Gaming, is it better or worse than the one you recommended?
That's really preference. Find the board with the features you want to get and go for it. I've never been a big fan of "gaming" boards regardless of brand, though that's just me.
>Does the ram matter, or are all manufacturers pretty much the same?
The biggest difference would be the heatspreaders used, but aside from that they're mostly the same.
>Is the Gigabyite 970 the best out of the manufacturers or is it mostly prefrence?
Personally I'd prefer the MSI Twin Frozr or a Zotac but that's just me. You can't go wrong with any 970 really. PNY's blower cooler design kinda sucks but still a good performer. Your Gigabyte is perfectly fine.
>Is the case you put better than the antec? Asking this because I have an antec now, but it's fairly old.
The Enthoo Pro is the absolute best case you can get in that price range. It's got great build quality and features out the ass. It's better than some cases that cost nearly twice as much.
>Also, the screen is 60hz, does that matter?
Will you be playing games where you can consistently get 120-144 fps or higher? If so you could go for a monitor with a higher refresh rate if you want. I personally use a 144hz VG248QE since most of my games are piss easy to run at high FPS. 60hz is still fine for the most part though.
Hijacking this thread. I need a better case. These are my specs with a EVGA 500w PSU
What, you mean the differences between different manufacturer's GTX970s? Nothing much. Cooler design, maybe they fuck with the clocks, warranty they offer on the product, etc.
They're all a 970 though.
I have no idea which games I'll be playing, that's what you have to tell me, since right now I'm still on core2quad Q660 and 9600GT.
My current PSU died, and I loaned one from a friend, that's why I'm switching, which PSU should I get, a cheap one for 50$?
Also, thanks for the help.
Not the guy that posted that, but:
8$ more for 2" larger heatsink/fan. Probably worth it if you're in the pricerange already. If you're not, why not get the EVO 212?
Gigabyte Z97 Gaming is arguably better, but probably not in any meaningful way that you would notice. The Asus Z97-A is a great board.
Like any computer parts, quality control is important for RAM. Most recommended brands are usually GSKILL, ADATA, and Corsair.
For 970 as far as I can tell it is mostly preference and there are complaints with all manufacturers. That said, generally you will want to buy Gigabyte, Asus, MSI or EVGA when it comes to nvidia graphics cards. Some people claim Asus has worse customer support of the four.
Antec used to be one of few companies that made actually good cases, so they were kind of the go-to for a number of years. Now there are MANY companies that make good cases. (Antec, Fractal Designs, Bitfenix, Corsair, Coollermaster, etc)
60hz / 120hz / 144hz matters depending on what you use your computer for. Most people will notice the difference between refresh rates most when playing fast-paced first person shooters. A higher refresh rate will not help if your FPS can't keep up (60hz at 60FPS is the same as 120hz at 60FPS), so highly demanding games won't show much difference. If you get motionsickness while playing games, you may find that high refresh + high fps relieve your symptoms. If you only play slower games or top-down games (rpg, rts, moba) or don't really play games at all, get an IPS with that has good responsiveness.
Both perform about the same at 1080p (though mantle should put the 290x ahead by a fair bit) - but as the resolution scales the 290x will do much better. In crossfire though - especially at 4K - a 290x will equal a 980 sli setup.
Hardocp recently tested 970 and 980 in sli at 4k and Nvidia surround and the 290x walked over the 970 and equaled the 980.
So basically, 290 is hotter and faster, 970 is cooler and quieter? I'm not really looking for crazy fps or multi gpu setups, and my gtx 750 (non-ti) does 80% of the things I could ask it to do, it only stutters in a few mmo's during intense fights and stuff.
I'm really just looking for a linear upgrade, under $200. Would it even be worth it when I could easily spend that much money on peripherals, which I probably need more?
290x, not 290 - the 970 is flatout better than a 290 these days, but more expensive.
If a 750ti does what you want going crazy for a 970 is not the smart move - you are better off at looking at something more modest (like a 270x or 280 or 760) - not only are those cards still a huge improvement over a 750ti they are a lot cheaper than a 970 and will power 1080p with medium/high graphics quality in all but the most demanding games.
This anon >>45358853 is right, but when heavily overclocked 290x drinks electricity like americans inhale burgers.
Thanks for the info on the power draw. I'm thinking about building a rig later in the year and was contemplating pickin up one 290x to later sli them if it was needed.
Seeing as how an R290X is cheaper or same price as a 970 the only downside would be power draw.