I want to get serious with pencil work
what is the best brand of pencil I should look for?
Are clutch pencils good? what about mechanical pencils?
Mitsubishi Hi-uni are top tier. If you don't have the cash or suck just get staedlers tho.
Tombow Mono pencils are pretty highly regarded by a lot of pros.
I prefer a 2mm lead holder because it's easier to get a fine point and more comfortable to hold. Good 2mm leads are about $1 each most places, although jetpens has Uni Mitsubishi leads at half that price that I've yet to try but are supposed to be about the same as their wooden pencils (which are great).
Pic related is what's on my desk. I've got a lot more than that, and honestly I use the Pentel P209 with 2B lead and the Staedtler Mars Technico with HB lead more than everything else.
I have two 0.5mm pencils for HB and 2B lead. 2B is for general writing and drawing, HB is for underdrawings I'll probably erase. The 0.3mm one is for guidelines and construction lines that I won't erase.
Never. I really love music and I can't just have it playing in the background without getting too into it. When I spin around in my chair there's an electric guitar, amp, and media PC ready to go, and I switch between drawing and music pretty freely. They're two separate loves, though.
are these good?
I like how french they are
Pentel Ain Stein is great for mechanical pencil leads. 4B is pretty dark and very smooth, so you don't scratch the paper for sketches and you can work under shit light conditions.
If your leads break, get a mechanical pencil with a metal tube at the tip. Also useful if you want to use the side of the lead.
Not good are Faber-Castell pencils, too much grain compared to Pentel.
>the french make quality art tools
good quality supplies don't come with nationality, i mean, come on.
There may be french brands who make decent art supplies, but so are swedish, german or japanese and so on.
just because it's "frenchy" doesn't make it good.
Yes, I'm being butthurt.
Trying to be a bit constructive here, Conté usually does produce nice quality supplies i have to admit.
>two thousand fifteen the year of our lord
>intentionally giving yourself a distraction
>not devoting all attention to the craft
>Shiggy my diggy
I like listening to space ambient or drone ambient. There's no groove to get into and its relaxing white noise basically. Sometimes the notes being played inspire me to draw stuff, else, it just blocks out sound fx around me
You need two things, paper and a pencil. There.
Now Seriously, if you're asking this questions you still didn't even started your journey into drawing.
So you still need to draw a couple thounsands of sketches... And I'm not joking.
This is a goal, and to achieve it you need to be pragmatic. Buy 4 packs of those cheap print paper of 75gms, 500 sheets each and you have 2000 sketches to do. u$7 each pack = $28 bucks in paper.
Next, you need a reliable pencil to attack those thounsands of paper sheets, pick a sturdy mechanical pencil. Why a mechanical pencil?, because as I said you need to be pragmatic and practical. You can't afford to spent a fortune in wood pencils, and lose time with that. A good mechanical pencil will last forever, that's all you need.
That Pentel in the pic related is good, but you don't even need a costly one. The other day I'd bought a new mechanichal pencil for 2B leads. They showed me a bunch of mechpencils of all kinds, I choosed that one in the bottom, not because it was cheap, but because of the quality of the design. I could afford the costly ones, but I'm not a collector, I need a pencil to to do drawings.
If you can acheive that goal of wasting those 4 packs of 500 sheets of cheap papers doing sketches, you'll be more than ready to get SERIOUS about art. Next You will be askng in art stores for 2mm lead holders asking them to show you everything they have to pick the right one.
About mechanichal pencil design I'll talk below...
"Mechanical pencil design", in the pic related I point out two basic things:
1-the point: as I show in the picture those pointy designs sucks. The tip of your finger is supposed to rest there for long periods of time, and also pressing hard. You need a nice and smooth tip design to rest your finger and hold the pencil.
2-The body: Fat, convoluted, and bloated body designs are crap for collectors or dumb people, Not good
for an artist. You need a working tool not a fancy toy. So as much the mechanical pencil design resembles an actual wood pencil or a traditional painter brush the BETTER. The design should be as sleak and smooth as possible. And as I said above it doesn't have to be a costly one. Just look for the quality of the plastic, a good sturdy piece of hard plastic is enough, a metal tip in the point is important too. Plastic tips breaks easily.
And avoid the pronounced ribeted grip on the body, a ribeting to edgy will destroy your poor fingers. Remember you'll be pressing that piece of plastic for hours and hours, and the longer you work the harder you'll be pressing the pencil because your hand will be struggling against working fatigue.
That's my advice, but also this guy agrees too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FoyaGaFajSU
But as I said, Those 2mm LeadHolders and tools are for more advanced drawing.
I have this pentel graphgear in the lower picture on the left.
i don't think it's "bloated". yes, a bit wider than a usual pencil would be, but nothing uncomfortable. what i had to get used to, was the weight. it's metal an thus a bit heavy.
but the main reason why i stick with with this pen is the way it transports the lead. you won't get a cheap mechanical pen that'll transport and grip 0.3 leads realiably and this is exactly what this pen does.
I'm sorry, I shouldn't had said the "dumb people" stuff, that's not what I wanted to express here.
I know that the graphgear Pentel is a very high quality product. But I stay on my opinion about the advantage of simple and efficient design.
For example, I usually take off the metal clip from this pencils, in the Pentel GraphGear the metal clip is part of the pencil mechanism. The complexity of that pencil is already getting in the way for me, just with that extra feature.
But as I said that's just me. I keep my pencils on the drawing table, so I don't worry about mechanisms to hide and protect the tip, if the clip works, or how they look. The more simple and cost-efficient the better.
Not him, but I was pretty surprised why you would shove these into the suck corner. But I get your general idea, which I agree with.
OTOH, the Graphgear isn't merely featuritis, the weight and front half are great for artists and people with restless hands.
One pack of paper at the beginning is better, if you find something better or want something for a different use you won't end up wasting space and money. Yeah, even printing paper has different use cases.
When first starting out id recommend using shit #2 bic mechanical pencils n regular acid free printer paper...if u want to feel fancy get cardstock. I'd also recommend a black pearl eraser because they are legit as fuck for poor fags like myself. Different drawing styles use different ways of holding the pencils. I sure as hell don't hold it the same for a rough sketch as I do for small intricate details. Just buy one of those cheap boxes of pencil grips to add to you pencil if it's actually that fucking necessary for ur hand. Also don't forget to take care of your hands n wrists....carpel tunnel, dick grip syndrome, stiff finger excuses.
Tombow Mono is a must. Mono 100, pic related, is what I actually have, but the normal Tombow Mono is equally good as well. Comparing to previous pencils, I feel like the pencil lead breaks a lot less, the line quality is extremely good, and the pencil tend to eat less lead when drawing. Shit's good, though it's quite expensive for pencils (it wasn't really expensive for me since I bought them directly from Japan and then a friend in Japland sent them to me through mail). Also, as a bonus, the smell of these pencils is somewhat distinct.
Someday I'll find this beauty... some day
Me? Southamerica. Here I can only find the fountain rotring art pen in a single package. The lead holder pencil isn't available. I know it went out of production in the 90's tho.
I don't think that I could spend 50 dollars or more on that pencil anyways.
I finally got round to getting these as well as midtone sketchbook
love them, first time using charcoal and carbon pencil and they are awesome, they work better than graphite for toned paper, are darker and I also like how it doesn't have that "shine"
The only exception is the "pierre noire 3B" which you can see is the one on the far right, the lead broke multiple time and it's already that small after using it for just a day
No idea what that is, i'm not pro enough
I use a pentel graphgear loaded with 4H lead for very light drawings/planning out. It doesn't smudge as much as hb as I have very sweaty hands, and erases pretty clean as long as you don't dig. So yes, mechanical pencils are useful for certain things.
If I were you I'd just pick up a set of pencils ranging from 4B to 4H and play around.
Anyone have a good alternative to jetpens ? their international shipping settlements are completely ridiculous.
>No Tracking Available. Delivery is Not Guaranteed. Please wait 45 calendar days from shipment date but no more than 75 days after shipment date before initiating a lost package inquiry.
10$ for 45 unsecured business days shipping from the us to Europe ? seriously ?
I've only been doing this for a little while so I can't speak with any authority, but personally I prefer clutch and mechanical pencils when I'm out doing studies - there's less mess without needing a sharpener and if you get the right leads you can get some really strong values. This was drawn using a Faber Castell TK 4600 clutch with 2.0 mm 2B lead, and the gridlines and underdrawing were made using a Staedtler Mars Micro with 0.7mm 2B lead. The best advice I can give you with regards to the mechanical pencils is to grab affordable pencils, but high-quality lead. Also shell out for a decent kneadable eraser as well. I hope my advice was helpful.
Any tutorial on who to draw on toned paper?
when should I be using sepia/sanguine pencil? when I use white charcoal it looks like I'm using too much
actually it was milt kahl, but the're both pretty autistic
I got a box of them as a gift once. I hate pencils to be honest.. But God it was nothing short of excellent to work with.
If you're serious about pencils, and are looking for some heavier blacks, with an unreal smoothness. These are for you
me again *2 weeks later*
have I improved? what do I need to work on?
That looks great. I dunno, some guy gave you links to pencil art videos, other said ¨draw from life¨... I think you improved because you found something in yourself not because someone told you something.
At some point there´s only one thing that becomes common ground to every artist: ¨get out of your comfort zone¨. But it´s too soon to throw that at you. You´re doing good, and you should keep filling sketch books.
You seem to be interested in natural figure, so you should check Proko´s channel asap. He´s doing some amazing anatomy classes and also giving critiques.
Idk but you can probably draw a very kickass gumby.
I think it's important sometimes for people to analyse a problem and try to figure it out themselves first (like doing math exercises, try solving it first before checking the answers at the back of the book).
When I started with digital I spent more time playing around with the software than looking up tutorials and it looks like that anon improved by limiting to two pencils.
Definitely, those things are very useful. This guy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=26VlD_Yfk_Q
made a review of a bunch of electrical erasers, but I can´t find the video anymore. It was really great. Maybe he took it down because he named several brands and made very harsh critiques. He said the old big ones are the best and that´s what he use. Those with a cord and a stand, but those are expensive and the best of them went out of production.
Anyway he also reviewed a couple of the mini erasers and said that they were very reliable tools. You definitely need one of those.
Here´s a site about mechanical pencils and lead holders. Huge collection of them, with info and pictures. Awesome stuff for the pencil drawing enthusiast:
Holy shit u$330,000 for this? Did someone here bought one of these?
Look through an old technical drawing book some day. There's all sorts of awesome drawing tools and techniques out there that aren't commonly used nowadays because professionals use CAD.
My grandmother was an artist, and she took technical drawing back when she had to get special permission to take a "boys class". She said it was a very useful class and encouraged me to learn it. I was taught traditional in my grade-school shop class fortunately, but even in college they taught a little basic traditional drawing before moving on to CAD.
Pencil extenders are also essential, but some people don't know about those either apparently.
A 2-pack of Pentel P205 drafting pencils (that will last decades) is $4 right now on Amazon. For that matter, though, the Papermate Sharpwriter is the best disposable mechanical pencil (I'm >>2139812 and I've tried them all) because the lead advance mechanism is a big spring with some give to it. That makes it terrible for anything requiring precision but amazing for light sketches.
I think there's a reason why 2mm holders don't come with an attached eraser. Those are usually used as high quality long lasting tools. There's not much snese in adding a little eraser to them.
Specially in art an attached eraser for a big ass 2mm leadholder sounds kinda ridiculous tbh.
I prefer much more the lead sharpener instead of the eraser tbh
Stole two of these at a Wilkinson store and bloody hell they suck!
I've been smudging my charcoal work with tissue and they do a much better job imo
"The Heavyweight PencilL" 2mm leadholder... Now this thing is ridiculous. I would go insane having to hold the pencil in one fixed position with my fingers stuck like that.
I do the exact same. I have my amp set up with my bass and guitar in the corner of my room and while I'm waiting for paint to dry or taking a break from drawing I'll start playing guitar. Keeps me productive and means that I'm not sitting around doing nothing
I use a Rotring 600 .05 mm, .07 mm and 2 mm. 2B or HB. I usually just draw something, scan it, and clean it up in ps. I am not a good artist so it's not worth posting any here. For the 2mm I use Uni Mitsubishi lead. I got it on sale on JetPens so I ordered a bunch. Moleskin notebooks, again I got them for cheap. If I didn't have a boat load of the Moleskin I would just use the printer paper we have at work since I could take a rem and no one would notice. Magic White erasers for my hard ones and just cheapo kneaded erasers.
Overall I would say it's really nice to have different size pencil's that have the same body type because you can easily switch between then for the different lines you need to lay down. I really really like the Uni Mitsubishi lead, and I fear running out of my supply. As for the lead in the other pencils I just use cheapo Pentel. It gets the job done.
It's nice to always have a plan B for when drawing or playing guitar get too frustrating. If I can't add a few more BPM to a lick I'm practicing, then slow, deliberate drawing helps me to relax a little and gives my fretting hand a break.
Thanks. I've since added a set of grey Copics, a handful of felt-tipped pens, and an architect lamp (the Pixar animation one). The lamp is my new favorite thing. Having a bulb you can move around freely close to the page is a lot easier on the eyes.
I still use a 2mm lead holder and 0.9mm pencil 90% of the time.
I forgot to put my eraser shield in that photo, but I use it all the time to keep my edges sharp and pick out bad marks. I usually draw on a clipboard with a dozen sheets of copy paper too.
It's the same technically. Economically it's going to be cheaper though, because those mechanical pencils will last forever and eventually you just have to buy some lead packages.
The Staedtler Mars 780 Technical Mechanical Pencil, 2mm is the most usual choice. Proko use them. You should get at least two of them one for HB leads an the other for a 2B or 4B lead.
Sorry I misunderstood your question, I thought you were talking about wooden pencil vs mechanical pencils.
The answer keeps the same I believe. Personally, aside from the Staedtler mars technico, I would like to have one of these too >>2202348 the clean plastic grip seems to be more comfortable than the metal grip on the Staedtler.
Don't use either. Use charcoal pencils and pastels. Stabilo Carbothellos, Generals, Faber Castell Polychromos, Conte, ect.
>Am I fine off using any 2mm mechanical pencil?
Only if you're doing your homework.
I tried this approach during my first years as a self taught art student, and it was a waste of money. I remember I bought all those things and more, oils, brushes, canvases, easels, varnish, and at the end none of that was well used, or actually used at all. If someone is gonna make a big buy of artistic tools he also have to invest in a teacher to show him first hand how to use all that stuff so it doesn't end up being a waste.
Getting focused in one thing consistently and do that every day is a safe bet. Pencil, paper and sketching is a foolproof system to start and to get a solid foundation in art. After the years I began to feel confident to go back to oils, watercolor and other mediums. But first it is mandatory to get gud with your drawing.
Check this site it has everything, articles, reviews, tutorials, pencil history sections and tons of stuff.
Is there any advantages in using a 2mm mechanical pencil over a regular drawing pencil? The only benefits I see now for them is that they are cheaper in the long run (just have to refill leads). I generally dislike using mechanical pencils because I tend to break the leads a lot. Do cheap ones differ a lot in quality from the expensive ones? I'm currently looking at these ones: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mechanical-Pencils-2-0-pencil-propelling-pencil-2b-carpenter-pencil-Drawing/32274368843.html
They are much easier to sharpen and you can change the form of the tip without having to cut wood away.
No clue about quality or what is good, I don't use 2mm or wooden pencils much.
>World’s Most Expensive Pencil
Graf von Faber-Castell $13,400
>that utter feeling of disgust
"Inspired by selected writing instruments produced by my ancestors, I saw it as a personal challenge to rediscover these products of a past age, and to bring them up to date with timeless design and the use of modern technology. This idea took shape as the Graf von Faber-Castell Collection."
That pic is fucking amazing, that yours?
I always used clutch pencils and they're just as comfortable as regular pencils, but I'm going to transition to mechanical pencils soon 'cause I only do linework
E+M Workbox Set - 5.5 mm Clutch Lead Holder + Sharpener
Found on amazon:
26 Piece Drawing and Sketching Pencil Art Set - Deluxe Kit Perfect for Beginners, Kids or Returning Artists - Art Supplies Include Graphite and Charcoal Pencils and Sticks and Everything You Need to Get Started on Your Next Drawing - Packed in a Reusable Case
First time that I see this OHTO Sharp Pencil ones. I would love to get these.
I don't like these, the bulky body gets in the way if you need to use sides of the pencil for wider strokes. You can extend the lead further but that just means more chance of breakage.
If you just like the gimmick of a wood body get a Kitaboshi 2mm Lead Holder
I dunno man, I still believe those OHTO looks much more nicer than the Kitaboshi
Not if it's all shit. I see gritty, sandy pencils with broken lead, charcoal of even more dubious quarity, an eraser made of concrete that will rip a hole in the page, pencil sharpeners that will eat pencils and break tips and useless graphite sticks that no one uses to the point that they don't even sell them individually under any reputable brand.
Tell me again what is useful about a big ugly plastic box that will break in a week full of cheap shit that is already broken like your dreams of becoming a concept artist need to be.
It's probably better to get a trusted brand. Doesn't have to be the most expensive stuff either, I personally really like faber castell or koh-i-noor is really widely spread here but idk if they sell that in amercas. they are good and not too expensive. And if price is an issue you don't need the whole range of pencils, you will use mainly one, usually 2b or 4b depending on your preference. You can safely skip charcoal and I don't even know what those sticks are,I don't dare think that is conte. Sharpeners are cheap in any fucking store or try a knife some people prefer that.
ive been using palomino blackwings for years now. by far my favourite. very smooth, but crisp when you want them to be. work well for traditional animation and loose expressive stuff like gesture drawing. they're really long when they're new as well so it feels good in your hand. the rubber is extendable and is held in place by a metal clip. the metal at the top of the pencil is shaped like that so it doesn't roll off the table. they also do a really nice sharpener which gives them a really long point so you can use it at an angle to block in areas easily.