How about we design a simple occupation type manufactured rifle? Something anyone can make in their garage when the chinks invade, with only minimal tools.
We could pattern it after Japan's Emergency Rifle they designed in the ending days of WWII.
It's just a simple bolt action receiver fitted to a smoothbore barrel (just a tube/pipe), two piece FCG (trigger and return spring), a four piece bolt (handle, bolt body, striker, and striker spring) and a wooden stock.
Fucking simple, man.
Since it's smooth bore, the pressures are low, thus it doesn't blow up when it fires. It's not as accurate, but it's simple and reliable.
I've always had a fascination with the Childs .22 pistol.
Something like this is the easiest, just 2 pipes, an endcap, and a 1D nail. Just slam the smaller 1/2 inch pipe that can shoot 12 gauge into the 1D nail thats welded or fastened to the endcap. Childsplay breh, no tooling at all except for maybe a file to make sure the inner tube slides proper like
In addition to a shotgun, you can make it a mortar launcher using 12 gauge blanks, a dowel, and some sort of afixed explosive, generally a molotov cocktail
Or fill a bottle with explosives and 1D nails (you already bought the box, might as well use what you have). then add a fuse and wrap that shit tight, a fuse is much safer than point detonating mortars just make sure its long enough
Absolutly shitty ms paint drawing for a homemade mortar but a sound design, use a 22 blank for impact detonation of explosives, probably gunpowder, with this design you just need a way to secure the end to the dowel, like a fitted cup on the end
Except how often are you going to find shotgun shells in an occupation environment? Also, that's difficult to aim. The rifle or the /k/ liberator pistol can be aimed better than that.
Plus, they're more concealable on your person than that shotgun.
Its not that bad actually, real fun in all honesty, just akward
If you want something fitted make a stock out of wood and tape or just use witchcraft like i did
>Pic related was turned in at a gun buy back
how about an smg type of weapon like this? easy to produce automatic and could be personalised with additions like stocks and fore grips
Sentry gun mount for 'airsoft' ar 15.
Will post G code and how to when it's done. Build cost is around 600.
Its just pipes man, point is its like 3 parts and a length of pipes isnt really noticable, not meant to be high tech just easy use mang
I chose 22 blanks because i have some around and most hardware stores sell them for ramsets, its only for ease of access, a shotgun primer would work just fine too but they arent as common
In addition to a mortar launcher you could make mortars real easy
Some anon posted the original designs for this ages ago, its the CLIT or CLaymore Improvised Trap
Its just a small pipe shotgun with a spring pulling the 2 pipes together
Now this time you need to drill a hole in the big pipe and put a metal hook that connects to a string
you could place this in door ways after mounting the CLIT to the wall to be either a direct trap to kill or maim whoever opens the doorway or as a sort of alarm system if it doesnt succeed at killing the target
As easy as open bolt weapons are to make, they run through ammunition quickly since their rate of fire is so high (Luty's guns run at 1,200 rounds a minute) and are unreliable.
Single shots are simple, reliable, inexpensive, and most of all they make you conserve your ammunition.
In an occupation type scenario, you have a very limited amount of ammunition. With a sub machine gun, 20 rounds could be one, maybe two kills.
With a single shot firearm, 20 rounds could mean 20 kills if you know what you're doing.
Plus, single shots are easier to suppress: there's no clanking of the bolt flying back and forth, it's just the sound of the striker hitting the primer.
Are Knives okay? This is the one I am working on, trying to make the most generic knife possible. 1.25" wide, .2" thick, blade around 5"
I don't think you're using that term right...
I have no idea, other then that it attracts a magnet when it get hots and it smells like hot steel when I annealed it, and the swarf gets magnetized from a long filing with a bastard mill file.
I am thinking after this I want to try a single shoot 22lr along the lines of >>22266695 or pic related but I don't have a wielder...
You can buy a simple "broken" wire feed welder from Craigslist for like $50, it's worth it.
Now, they may say they're broken, but they're not: let me explain.
Most of the time, people sell them because they have a lot of splatter when they weld with flux core wire, and they think the welder is broken. Well, it's not: the polarity of the welder is wrong. Most wire feed welder s can also do MIG welding, but that's a whooooole different ball game. Regardless, when you MIG weld you must have the opposite polarity than when you weld with flux core wire, I.E. the clamp should be positive, and the wire negative (don't quote me on wether I have the +/- right, it's late: google it yourself). A lot of the time though, they come out of the box set up for MIG welding, when the person only plans to use it for flux core wire. When the polarity is set for MIG welding and you use flux core wire, you get a LOT of splatter.
If you use Lincoln flux core wire (high quality stuff, doesn't splatter much), an anti-splatter, water soluble coating on the metal, and have the polarity right, you will have fantastic welds with almost no effort.
I forgot one more thing for you to eat while making you guns!
This shit works.
.180 Cal black powder micro rifle.
Uses flash cotton as a fuse and a single match head with TP wadding. Bout as powerfully as a red Ryder.
Made from antenna, glue, tape and wire.
Looks good in a gijoe hand.
I should probably post the original infograph with the dimensions for all the materials. I know this is kinda late considering its 12 hours later but the dimensions are here with an actually competant description of how to make pipe funs
NO AR! IT"S AIRSOFT ONLY.
Although this could be made from wood, or really any material, ideally it's made using the gcode on a CNC with Al 7075. If you have CNC access and that quality alloy, you can also make an AR lower.
It's definitely his style though being a quick paint job with not so perfect English though. He is one of the few anons who actually posts photos of the actual builds instead of just spamming random schematics.
I was actually thinking of doing something similar for a TOTALLY COMPLETELY AIRSOFT 10/22. Never played much with electronics and computers and stuff. How hard is it?
A single shot rifle that uses a pistol round would be terribad for use against a modern military. I don't know what the Chinese use for armor currently, but it probably isn't much different from what the US/European countries/Russia use, which would be IIIa kevlar (capable of stopping .44 magnum from a revolver or 9mm from a submachine gun) covering the torso and groin and a plate that covers most of their chest down to their belly button and a second plate that covers a similar part of their back that can at least stop a couple hits from non armor piercing rifle rounds up to 7.62x51mm/7.62x54r (older US SAPI plates, Russia uses something similar) or possibly even from armor piercing 7.62x51mm/7.62x54r with a hardened steel core (US ESAPI plates, European countries use something similar). They will also have helmets that are IIIa kevlar equivalent (US Army recently adopted the ECH that can stop 7.62x51mm safely and Russia has helmets for special forces that will stop rifle rounds). You would be better off with a submachine gun considering you would be restricted to firing at their face/the non protected area between their neck and their helmet, if you managed to build something that could penetrate IIIa kevlar you could also shoot through their helmet and their vest under their plates (bellow the belly button). Shooting through the plates is out of the question however as unless you have a supply of steel core or tungsten core 7.62x51mm/7.62x54r depending on the level of protection you aren't going to be able to penetrate their plates.
>A single shot rifle that uses a pistol round would be terribad for use against a modern military.
The Chechens used .22 rifles for sniping at very close range in Grozny aiming between the vest and helmet.
1.A heat source
2.A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer
3.A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals)
4.Potassium chloride(sold as a salt substitute at health and nutrition stores)
Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of potassium chloride and
add this to the bleach being heated. Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer, and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If
using a battery hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge.
Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it is between room temperature and 0oC. Filter out the crystals that have formed and
save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals.
Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 milliliters distilled
water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. This process of
purification is called "fractional crystallization". These crystals should be relatively pure potassium chlorate.
Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to drive off all moisture.
Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts
potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals from above) into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until intimately mixed.
Allow all gasoline to evaporate.
Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This explosive is best molded
to the desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest
detonation velocity. Also, a blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used.
You act like anyone would actually put a real gun in this thing. The only situation where people would, is if they are already bad enough people that they don't care about killing random people, (eg cartel farmers) or is shit hits the fan in a rebellion type way.
You guys should download The Dokument, there is a bunch of documents about reloading and weapon building with "household" stuff
I was just looking around regarding MOs recent amendment to protect firearm ownership and stumbled upon this:
Does it only affect firearms made to be sold? Or are we all boned?
gunna build me a personal range for this bad boy this weekend.
I think functioning micro guns will be a new hobby of mine
I always thought a somewhat simplified version of the B?yskawica SMG would be interesting. Almost no welding is used in it's construction and it seemed fairly functional, if a little homely
I'm presently building a CAD of this for my own foolery, and perhaps build using the 3D printer I'll have in the coming months. Not exactly khyber pass but fuck if I am going to pay 130 for a bit of ABS and two straps. Shoot, maybe after I'll pawn some off to a few friends of mine.
>hencho en switzerland
that fucking gets me every time
1Blowback question: following the calculations from Orion's hammer, I have it understood that 7.92x33 kurz uses a 6.7~7lb bolt, vs 6.3lbs for 7.62x39?
If this is the case, why not build a VG1-5 clone out of an AK receiver (can a close enough be made out of a cut up 1.375" square tubing?) with a guide rail welded to the bottom under the trunnion part of the receiver. The front trunnnion is an Orion style milled chunk of aluminum. The barrel is a barrel blank with the piston profiled in and fitted with appropriate gas ports.
The slide is built out of tubing, perhaps rectangular tubing with a riveted/welded threaded cylindrical insert to fit a cap perforated to fit the barrel though, with the whole of the slide riding on the rail welded onto the bottom of the receiver. On the other end of the slide, an Orion style laminated bolt is secured to the slide with screws. The hammer is a simple AK hammer.
The receiver endcap is a bit of a mystery, held in place with spare AK pins, perhaps the safety lever? For sights, mount an Uzi style sights to the slide, perhaps cheapened out using a hexbolt and a welded on washer? Or mount a red-dot on the receiver endcap.
In 7.62x39 the gas ports will be necessary in order to make a sufficient gas buffer to avoid the slamming slide from breaking up the gun. It could be interesting to make it in lesser calibers, perhaps omitting the gas system and making the slide lighter to avoid limp-wristing.
Reading up on GunLab's reproduction gave me the push to think this out.
People need to quit this.
>buy AR pistol
>buy arm brace to keep it a pistol
>ATF my SBR
I really like the guy who has been making these guides. If someone goes and makes instructions on making barrels then this dude has the potential to be the new Luty.
Ah ah ah ah, you are all forgetting that it's not a pistol, but a "firearm": and as such is not an AOW and can have the foregrip.
Basically, if the firing OAL is over 26", but it has never had and doesn't currently have a stock attached to it, AND it has a foregrip: it's a "firearm", and not a handgun or rifle.
Take a look here: http://www.franklinarmory.com/XO-26_Letter__c_.pdf
That guy is totally in the clear, the gun is 100% legal.
Well you can't shoot someone very well without a gun, so it probably helps.
Anyone hear any news about Wheat?
Is he still reputedly dead or lost in Cambodia?
Would those shitty like cap gun pellets be a decent propellant
Or just grind match powder?
I had a thought if I scaled it up a little I could ignite it with Christmas tree lights. I made a plan before but never acted on it
I guess the powder from toy caps could work. But there is very little powder in each cap.
I've tried using a .22 case full of crushed matches to fire a pellet from an old .177 air gun barrel and I got a loud sonic boom. So at least in small bores, crushed match heads are far more potent than people think.
Sweet cheers. Back when I first finished uni for the summer I asked about this and later came up with an ignition idea. I'll copy pasta it from my notes. Sound plausible?
Small low voltage (1v) lights with exposed filament. Make container, fill with match powder, put light through lid and seal it tight. Get long wiring, connect wires, detonate with a 9v battery whilst far away (this overloads the low voltage light which makes the filament burn igniting the powder, if under pressure causes an explosion.
>why not make a straight blowback 7.62x39mm rifle?
The Soviets beat you to it by about 70 years.
Judging by the chain of posts, the poster was talking about the smooth bore rifle suggested in the OP and how a homemade submachine gun would be better. In both cases you most likely wouldn't be able to just buy a barrel blank.
When I get a job, I'm planning on buying a used percussion cap barrel off of eBay, and building a lock and stock from scratch.
Depending on the condition of the barrel, I might cut it down and make it into a cap lock pistol.
Farther down the line, when I have more money and shit like a drill press, I'm planning on designing an ultra simple blowback design that can be made by anyone with simple tools. Hopefully the design will be simple enough that ithe length an bolt weight can be modified to shoot just about any cartridge.
I will retort with "the burden of proof lies with you".
In a slam bang/four winds any worries of flash back would be negated by the chamber. It takes little force to strike a match. The design is based on a timeless recipe for grenade fuses.
Whats your beef?
It's pointless bullshit. A fuckload pressure will escape out the primer hole. Ignition will be weak at best. Unless you're using black powder I doubt you'd get a good powder ignition and burn. And if you get a dud, which is likely, you can't just re-cock and try again like you can on a cartridge with a normal primer.
Also, shells without metal case heads explode in slam-bang guns.
I have photos of that.
something something pivot point
Take VG-1 idea of a simple receiver milled out of bar stock fed using detachable mags, and apply it using currently available mags.
Negative sear engagement. As the trigger moves, the object impressing its force on the sear is creeping forward. This makes it super easy for a shock to make that object slip from the sear and discharge.
The second design is a good idea due to it having positive engagment, the object impressing its force is moving slightly back as the trigger is pulled which makes it a very safe design.
I don't understand what is going on in the third design though.
you fuckin serious? i carried a 3 inch pocketknife all through middle and high school and no one gave a fuck. then again its a small rural school and i knew all the teachers really well.
If you are interested join up with Fosscad, as >>22277464 said.
We are a great bunch of guys, here is a link for you, www.fosscad.org/fc/about/
The wire you use for the ignitor has to be small so that the current you are putting through it causes it to get very hot and burn.
The wire in an incandescent lightbulb demonstrates this very well. They get red hot. The only reason they never burn is because they are in a vacuum.
So to apply this to ignitors, use a christmas lightbulb. The really tiny ones. Heat the tip with a lighter and dip it in cold water and the top will crack off. Then, fill the bulb with either BP, potassium chlorate, hmtd or mf.
When you close the circuit, the bulb will either burn or blow up depending on what you used.
Dammit, does no one remember the P.A. Luty instructions on how to make expediant ammunition?
The above is where that "POS" would be helpful: old, dirty, corroded or homemade ammo does NOT like to feed in magazine feed guns, especially semi autos and very much so in the case of homemade guns.
A simple single shot will function with any ammunition, as long as the primers and powders in said ammunition are still in working order.
Pretty damn safe. I've personally tested 9mm Luger barrels made out of M20 bolts with smoothbore 8.8mm bores. They were perfectly safe. But i would not reccomend using anything more potent than 9mm in an M20 barrel unless you make it out of a high strength steel.
I've heard about /k/ people hammering a slightly too big hex key down the barrel for rifling. Does that actually work? Is it hard work, or does it go through fairly well? How effective is hex rifling if it goes in a straight line?
That is for legal reasons. It doesn't acctually improove accuracy, it's just that smoothbore pistols are illegal in the usa, so pounding a hex key an inch down the barrel will make it legal.
Dead or in prison.
You're gouging the barrel and the displaced metal has to go somewhere, so unless you remove that, you're going to have even higher pressures.
seriously, a rifling button can be had for ~$200 get one and 30 seconds on a press.
Wheat was our DIYguy + ballistician + one of the few good trips.
Large portion of his family passed, then his sister wasraped& killed in cambodia.
He left an anon a letter & pics to show if he was missing. He said he was either dead or in prison.
Current anon theories are suicide by cop and hunting down rapist/murderer
Is it possible to make an electric ignition that doesn't need reloading/rebuilding every time it is used?
Making christmas lights sound like a good option.
With some creative wiring it probably wouldn't be too much trouble to reload.
I always wanted to attempt to reverse engineer this thing. There isn't a whole lot out there about this gun in terms of how it's built, its dimensions, etc.
too bad laws in NJ won't allow me to build a firearm.. I wonder if I'd be able to make one out of paper/plastic first.
Also, would one without a stock be considered an sbr by any chance?
Just look at close up photo and drawings - rescale any head on photos. I'm pretty sure the workshops that made them hand fitted them and they're all slightly different.
Theres much simpler and better designs out there to copy if you're looking for simple/easy. The Blysk was mainly designed to be assembled in lots of little complex parts so production wouldn't be discovered.
anon pitching in... All these should be combined into one HD memorial but it would be too big for /k/
Were all in this together.
Don't forget to hammer a 6mm hex wrench through this a few times to keep it legal..
This. And the guy doesn't seem to be too tech savvy and probably only knows how to use Paint so he can't really post OC as an anon without being discovered.
I think he's gone for good, like most good triphomos. Maybe he got fed up or maybe he is rotting somewhere in Cambodia. It's the same shit with Johnny.
Falling-block rifle or pistol chambered for some common rimmed cartridge or shotgun shell.
A very simple design mechanically, can be made relatively strong and they're easy to use.
Can you be a poorfag and use a normal reamer to chamber a barrel or do you have to drop a few hundred on a legit chamber reamer?
Also, whats the part of the barrel called where the rifling just begins right after the chamber and is kind of smoothed so the tip of the bullet doesnt hit the lands and get stuck?
No sense in making these bolt-action like the VG-1, just make them straight-blowback, maybe even open bolt if you're not worried about the law, cheap and easy.
>use a normal reamer to chamber a barrel
If it's for a pistol caliber i don't see why not
>Whats the part of the barrel called where the rifling just begins right after the chamber and is kind of smoothed so the tip
Looking at google images of cut barrels, some do have a space some don't
Have a semi auto p-14/17? Tired of worki the bolt after every shot? These rifle can fire out of batter with the bolt unlocked... Solution take a pipe, cut out path for bolt handle, attaché tube to screw holes on the dog ears and butt plate and enjoy answering questions such as what the hell is that and can I buy one
Ha, welcome to the party like 80 years to late. The Snabb already beat you to it.
>So has anybody done this without blowing themselves up?
There's nothing inherently dangerous about it. Potassium chlorate + petroleum jelly is an old method of making "plastic" explosives. Trying to make your own mercury fulminate can be pretty dangerous though.
A branch that does not have the ability to regulate the distribution of information. Info is not illegal to have.
Do it if you have the tools. I'd love to see if someone could make a working model.
I dunno if the guy who writes those guides is American, or if he's just paranoid. His two guides have deactivated barrels and he claims they haven't been fired.
Finished my mini matchlock prototype.
Still working on proper load ratio and I haven't tried any powder yet. Just flash cotton.
I use a chunk of incense as a slow match letting me line up a shot with out a burning fuse rushing me.
Also I think it would be funny to equip them with speakers so that they can say select a random phrase before dispensing lead.
Not even fat but
bacon is love
bacon is life
year of our lord John Moses Browning 1911+103
Not putting bacon in everything.
Clit isnt wheat breh but heres the electric ignightor
Sorry Mustve missed that, ive seen people claim tons of designs as his, only to have him deny that
Heres also his only entry in physics, just so you can complete the wheat collection
Modern cars are made from very thin steel, because they're filled with rubber mats and shit to reduce noise and vibrations, so the steel has to be thin to keep the weight down.
If you really wanted to you could stab through a car door with a screw driver or a sturdy knife.
I'm currently working out the CAD for making a pistol. It'll just be a dinky little .22lr, but if it works it will be fun. So far I've got the barrel housing, barrel, breech and firing pin all set up. I decided to work my way outward from there. It's being completed in my spare time, but I'll show you pictures of its development as it comes along. Hopefully I'll be able to manufacture this at the machine shop at school, but it'll be questionable. If I keep the pieces separate, I doubt there'll be a problem, and the guy in charge of the shop is pretty chill, but we'll see.
I'm trying to keep the small angle approximation of linear motion there by keeping the pivot point at the other end of the gun, near the muzzle. This is a work in progress as it is now, and is by no means a finished project. I hope to complete it and then release the detailed machining plans to /k/ after I verify that it works.
Remember that cap about the guy who shot napalm out of a shotgun?
I kinda want to do that for kicks but I know fuck all about reloading. Think if I just take a cheap load and fill the was with relatively thick napalm it'll work? And what about recrimping the thing?
Using a power sprayer or something like that unmodified seems dangerous. They aren't exactly designed with heat in mind.
>vietnamese knock off of a chinese copy of a ppsh
Since when d o shacks and tunnels inna jungle not count as "homemade"?
The design is a modified version of the type 50.
It was manufactured in vietnam.
Most guns the VC put together were like that.
I'm out of vietnamese guns, have a pole.
Ignorant brain fart time.
Could magnetic attraction between the bolt and the chamber compensate for bolt weight in a blowback design? Or maybe on specific locations on a frame (imbedded steel in polymer) to create "drag". Making say a 1 lbs bolt mechanically act as a heavier one.
With that in mind. Could magnets repelling in the rear and attracting in the front of a bolt remove the need for springs?
Noted! I forgot about the effects impact has on magnets good point.
But what about magazine springs that could compress completely? Float the carrier away from the mag floor? Lighter weight, less parts?
It's why I call it a brain fart.
yeah I figured
I was thinking for the know nothing D.I.Y.er to whom the construction of springs may be a mystery but "epoxy space magic to tube" could still be accomplished.
I was thinking along the lines how to make it lego simple.
Thats a damn good idea anon.
Mabey it would work for a .22 or something with low recoil.
Or a bolt action and just use it for the hammer/striker so it doesnt actually take any of the recoil at all.
Anyways, to make springs all you have to do is wind some spring wire around a rod.
Use a smaller rod than what you need because it will uncoil slightly when you release the tension, making it a little bigger.
It will also shrink a little length wise the first time you compress it, so make it on the long side.
drill a hole in the rod and stick the end through to hold it while you wrap it around.
Protip: springwire and music wire are the same thing
What kind of a tubing do I need for .454?
I'm making a derringer and I want it to be as powerful as possible because lol only one shot and I got a box of 454 from my friend.
Yuropoor here so not much experience with guns btw.
How so? The cartridges are big, I know, but a lot smaller than shotgun shells and people use fucking plumbing pipe for that.
I have some seamless pipe with 5mm walls, when I drill it a bit more open for 454 the walls will be a tad bit over 4,5mm.
From what I can tell commercial revolvers have less on their cylinders 'weakest' spot.
>The cartridges are big, I know, but a lot smaller than shotgun shells and people use fucking plumbing pipe for that.
Their size really has nothing to do with it. Shotguns fire very low pressure ammo, which in addition to the smooth bores makes them good candidates for DIY shit.
.454 casull is a very high pressure round, just forget this incredibly dumb idea and thank me for saving you some appendages.
But I only have ammo for 454, .357 maximum and 7mm remington magnum (this shit came from an old shiluette shooter)
Which one is best for first diy build and can be shot from a seamless pipe?
But has much less than .22LR
There are a ton of calibers with less pressure than .22LR, so I always find it funny when someone says "your first gun gotta be a 22!"
.38 Special has less pressure (not the plus P shit mind you) coming out than .22 does. I think by 3-4k.
But I recycle old 7.62 barrels and make .32 derringers out of them during the Winter when I'm bored and it's too cool to go outside.
Make your own custom low power shells then.
Pull the slugs from the shells and reload with match heads and shot.
Straight walled brass is great for mini shot shells for diy pipeguns.
Ive seen you postin that since you made that one thread about it, i wanna see what it doooooes.
>some ignorant yuro is given sound advice
>scoffs and insults wise /k/ommandos
I hope he does build it, and I hope we get to hear about the carnage.
Well, I'm pretty bored atm and current laws and surroundings won't allow me to build a firearm...
But I found that pvc makes for some good Bow material.
Now, I noticed that they tend to have a low draw weight, so I went ahead of my self and made a half inch pipe go into a 3/4 incher, I cut a bit into the 1/2 incher and then pounded it down with a hammer. It worked fine and all, then I tried to use the heatgun to shape it to give it "limbs. it just plain doesn't work. the heat isn't transferring good enough to the inner pipe.
While I go to the hardware store and buy more pipe, could you guys give me some ideas to getting both hot enough to shape?
Also, how would dowels do for a bow like this? I don't think the lower draw weight will send splinters into my hand and arm, as long as I make sure to select them properly, and brown people used shit like cane for arrows way, but I suppose making some sort of armor for my arm and hand wouldn't hurt.
You can run hot HOT! water through the middle. Sand can work better (retains heat longer) to but is messier. Just keep the water flowing through for a while (best to pour into a container to reheat used warm water cuz it boils faster).
Then take a tin can, split and flatten it. Cut it into a wide "T" shape, then bend it around your heat gun, hold it with wire/or hose clamp. Now bend the dangling metal nose into a hook to go around the pipe containing and directing the heat.
It's best if you can get a sheet of wood that you can run some screws into to clamp the pipe down. Then bend it running screws into the wood on the outside of the bend to keep the shape while cooling.
Done right you can lean the board against a wall with your catch bucket on the ground, funnel at the top, camp stove with boiling pot.
With a jig you can even set the curve half way and recurve back making it stronger more compact and just plain cooler.
Get some packing tape (the kind with the fiberglass threads. Wrap it completely up, pvc will shatter into shards. Pointy shards. Cloth tape, leather or rag wraps give it a good wasteland feel. Spray on plasti-dip and a steady hand or large diameter heat shrink tubing to look pro.
Reinforce the ends/ string attachment points. Extra chunks of pvc, can work shimmed in and layered and glued. Or molded flat drilled and grommet reinforced (pop rivets work great once you pry the stud out).
You can make good strings from dental floss. Get a large spool unflavored, waxed.
Drill screws in a board the length of the finished string.
Tie a fixed loop in one end about 4 inches wide with a long tail.
Hang it around one screw and wrap between screws 12 times, and once more for good luck ending one the same side you started.
Tie it off through the loop, wrapping all the way up to the screw. Tie it of and wrap the other end. Remove screws. Wrap up end loops (you can wrap wire into the loops to extra strength copper or aluminum no rust).
Notch point once strung