Zed - need a bit of your expertise.
I picked up this JC Higgins Model 103.16 (Marlin Model 80) for $5 at a garage sale.
You'll see why in the picture.
I want to restore it, seems like almost all the parts are here (missing a screw in the bolt assembly, and the trigger safety, might need to replace the rear bolt piece).
Think the metal is too far gone to save?
Also, would you recommend hot blue bath, or the cream bluer that you recommended that one time.
OK-- I usually don't recommend this stuff, but it's the only way to know what's under that rust.
The bolt housing is the worst area on it, I was just going to use oil and steel wool to clean it.
Looks like I'm making a quick run to Home Depot to pick up some naval jelly rust remover.
I'll update here in under an hour, the Loctite stuff works in 5-10 minutes.
Yeah man, that's a little beyond what can be done with steel wool and oil, unless you're using a really coarse wool, have plenty of it, and are REALLY patient.
There's no finish left, so there's no real reason to NOT use naval jelly in this instance. But you know there's going to be some pitting under there, so you might as well get several grits of pic related from 150-220 grit to polish some of those out. Some may be too deep, and you'll just have to live with 'em.
>that's a gun
Jesus Christ I thought the metal was wood.
What a bomb.
Hey how do you guys USE sandpaper?
I had to polish an SKS sear once, and I wrapped it around a square-sided flatfile I had on hand; do you wrap/fold it around a piece of hardwood or what?
that's fine. any kind of flat, solid backer will do. Just make sure you sand longways on spring steel. If you sand across, you can potentially make weak spots where the spring can break.
No idea if that's actually true, but I always do it.
Anyone can hand over $100. That's not interesting at all. It takes a little skill and patience to do something yourself, for yourself, and then you can be proud of the work you did.
You're just a boring and untalented person.
Jelly is on it, got the 10 minute timer going. May need to do a second coating.
It said remove surface rust first with a sanding block or brush. I could tell there was what looked like light pitting when I cleaned off the rust with a sanding block.
At this junction, I'm thinking restoring with bluing will be a lost cause. I'll probably fill in the pitting, and then duracoat.
We'll see though, after the jelly has had time to work.
Pics incoming in 4 minutes or so.
Best of luck, hunter.
If it's not functional, you at least have a gun with a story behind it.
Got my grandfathers single barrel break action. Older then he was (IIRC), but it's not safe to shoot.
I'll be here.
Don't be too hasty about duracoat-- I had a pretty badly pitted Remington that I was able to polish out (file out in some places...) and cold blue to a pretty decent looking finish.
>OP was wise to seek his, and only his, council.
Considering my contributions to this board on this and similar topics, and Anon's general non-contributory shitposting, like your post, this is actually completely correct.
It cost me $5. The stock is worth $25 at least.
Here's the pics after 1st stripping.
>implying that outweighs anything
>implying he doesn't shit up other boards, too
I asked him a simple question about the electrolysis guide he made and he never answered. He doesn't know shit.
It's difficult to see how deep that goes. Can you put a straigtedge across it, and then stick a pencil or something straight down into it so you can measure the depth from level?
Or take a pic kinda at an angle.
>old rust bucket being given a second chance to be an awesome classic
>Zed being helpful
>my wife is coming home early from work
Fuck. OP, you're doing an awesome thing, >>23245469 is already looking good.
Used to work at Midwest Trophy in the Metal/Wood/Acrylics shop. Stripping, cleaning, etc. is all old hat for me.
Thanks though, glad you're enjoying the process.
Here's a close up of the pitting. Nothing is deeper than this, but there are several areas like this.
I am thinking it may require sandblasting to get all the rust out, or something more than elbow grease and sanding pad.
I like you Zed. You do actually know somethings, and it's a joy to watch people complain about you shit posting.
And the best part is, the entire thread was shit. Yet they un-ironically accuse you of shitposting.
I think you can file those to minimize the appearance, then sand and polish the surrounding metal, but they may be too deep to get fully out.
You don't need a sandblaster for the deep bits, just a brass wire brush of some kind. I had one on a bench grinder, and that made short work of it, but if you have just a hand brush or brass dremel brush, or even the kind you chuck in a drill, you'll be able to get all that shit out.
It is a never ending source of entertainment Anon.
For what it's worth, here's a pic of the worst of the pitting on my 550-1. Could I have filed and polished them out? Sure! But I'd have lost a lot of the barrel marking in the process, and would have probably wound up having to reprofile the whole barrel several thousandths thinner.
In the end, I decided that they're part of the gun now, and a reminder of what the thing looked like before I could put it right. Point being, for a $5 rifle, you're still going to have something that's worth WAY more than what you put into it, and just might be a hell of a shooter besides.
The only reason I bring it up is because I think blued steel and walnut looks a lot better on an old vintage gun than duracoat will.
I'll have a buddy bring some metal stripping stuff this weekend, since he works in a garage.
I'll get it fully stripped this weekend, and get pics, and go from there to see if it's worth bluing, or fill in pits and duracoat or parkerize.
Either which way, I won't go wrong with a $5 gun. .
Well, I could always have it blued, then if I don't like it can always smooth the metal out and then some other type of coating.
It's a Marlin model 80. The microgrooving in the barrel is amazingly good once I got the dirt and bug carcasses out of it (seriously, there were 2 dead beetles and I think a spider in there).
you could get a better rifle for that $100 though.
The fun would be in restoring a $5 rifle with hardwork and simple tools.
I'd love to have an opportunity like this.
That's what I am thinking.
Replacing the safety is going to cost me $10 from Numrich, which has a good number of parts for it.
Will probably take me another week maybe to get it to be able to be shot (gotta reassemble the bolt which is going to take parts, plus get a magazine).
It was mummified, along with the beetles.
I used this stuff on that Remington. It is bar none the best cold-blue I have ever used. Way cheaper than having it hot-blued too.
Man, shop around for those parts. Set a dollar cap where you want to have a shooting rifle, and stick to it. Your $5 rifle can turn into a $120 rifle before you know it, and the damn thing may never be worth that much.
The magazine might be tricky, if you sand away and rust on the magazine catch, or the siding itself, the new magazine may not fit in the gun at all. You may be looking at some more replacement parts here.
Yup. I already gotta pull the barrel, and get a new cartridge guide spring.
Cost right now isn't an issue. If I can get it looking and shooting good, I'm willing to spend hundred or two on a project gun, even if it isn't worth that on the market. I don't plan on selling it, I'll use it, and then give it to my godson, or one of my friends.
Stock is good. Only chip is on the butt at the plate - some wood putty will fix that, and some golden oak or walnut stain.
The stock is in good enough condition I don't have to sand and refinish, though I do need to remove a sticker from something.
It's actually not walnut, it's stained birch. I suppose I could replace the whole stock with a actual walnut Marlin 80 stock, but, this one is good, with that one exception.
I suppose I could go harvest some birch bark for brewing, and take a limb or two, make some sawdust, and create a birch putty with the dust and wood glue to fix it.
Still going to have to stain it to get it to match.
If the stock is in decent condition with butt-plate, it's probably at least 35-40 on eBay.
Do you have the bolt? That's where the money is at on these things. She's honestly not that bad.
Yeah, it was sold at Sears & Roebuck. I know it was made pre-'68 - no serial number. I am thinking it was a 50s or 60s model, since it has the newer style extractor (one piece clip that slips onto the bolt).
I do have the bolt, I am missing the sear retaining screw. I gotta take it apart and do the same type of rust removal on it as well, and make sure the firing pin and firing pin springs are good.
It used to be chromed, the rust destroyed parts of that.
Aluminum oxide won't harm it, but glass beads are what you'd use on rust
I'd honestly go with that first
The wirebrush is going to leave inconsistent scratches that will all go different ways and won't be a uniform finish
I'd say go with a bead blast or aluminum oxide, then Belgian blue it
It'll look sexy as fug
I only recommended the wire brush on the idea that Hunter didn't have access to a sandblasting cabinet. I've used Ye Olde Brass Wheel on a couple of guns, and then just used a couple of grades of sandpaper and oil until I had it to the finish I wanted.
But if you have access to a cabinet, hell yeah, go for it. Much easier.