Less than one month until end of group build! (October 31st 2014) Link in end of OP.
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For those of you just joining us, please read this guide. Please read it before asking questions as there is a chance it has already been answered there.
For those unfamiliar, "Plamo" is a shortened form of "plastic model." If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here.
>"If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!"
***READ THE GUIDE***
And a handy guide to other types of plamo:
Kawaguchi Gunpla tips : [YouTube] Fun to build GUNPLA - Basic Tools (embed) [Embed]lick to play video inline.
Gundam Lineart: http://seesaawiki.jp/nuriesozai/lite/d/MenuBar1
#GundamFTWest Group Build Contest : https://gundamftwest.wordpress.com/
Old Thread >>11490568
Reposting from the old thread(Sorta), but my 1/6 scale StG-44 showed up this evening. Gotta mod and paint it properly, but it's definitely a better size than the 1/9 scale I have at the Geara Zulu's feet. It'd be nice if a 1/7 scale existed for this gun, but that's just not gonna happen.
Oh well, at least it's a better size than the old one. Also, the 1/100 Zulu is ALMOST done. Just dragging my feet with it.
Anyone got the image of the GM with the aurora film on the visor?
should i do my first paint job with spray paint or hand paint? I'm broke as fuck and was wondering what's cost effective and whats easier? i want to work with the same colors for at least 2 kits.
I recommend starting simple. Go with spraycans for simple recolors or mass coverage, and handpaint fine details.
Paints can get expensive if you're not careful so shop around for primers and sprays at places like OSH and Walmart(Their paint section is usually really nice and cheap for good Krylon stuff). Citadel and Tamiay make phenomenal hand paints, but they add up quickly too, so pick carefully.
As time moves on, you can move on to an airbrush to reduce paint costs since you no longer need cans, but can be very expensive up-front.
I'd write more, but I need to sleep and get up early. I'll respond to you when I wake up, if you say anything.
As far as rattle-cans go?
Tamiya, Mr Hobby, or Krylon Plastic Primer.
With Krylon you'll have to adjust your spraying technique. You'll wanna go with lighter coats and from a distance.
If you get an airbrush there are many more options available.
PG Unicorn will be remade forever. That's a limited kit, get it.
>Mr. White Putty
Depends on the amount of putty used / size of the area. Best to let it sit overnight for 8hrs or so.
Not legitimately, but you can use the fork connector to hook into the crotch and then hold it up at an angle.
It would be better if you got two AB1's and supported the nose with another arm, otherwise it has some pretty bad wobble.
Are you in the US? You can get Xuron 2175ET nippers on Amazon for only $3 more, and they're better.
The Formula P3 clippers are copies of Xuron 410 clippers if I recall, but don't quote me on that. They should be pretty decent.
>You can get Xuron 2175ET nippers on Amazon for only $3 more, and they're better.
Alright, thanks. I was only asking about the Formula P3 clippers because they were the first result when searching "hobby clippers" on Amazon.
How well would it balance if I worked up some sort of adapter for these plugs?
The problem is, they have multiple names. Sprue Cutters, Nippers, Hobby Clippers. Makes searching difficult.
The front landing gear hole is deep enough to work with, but those smaller connectors wouldn't inspire much confidence when in the air IMO.
You could definitely scratch-build a cradle to hold it up. Sorta like the MG ReGZ stand.
Which Tamiya nippers?
The 74001 & 74035 are just as good as the Xurons but more expensive depending on where you get them.
The 74045's are pretty average cutters. Nice big grips, but the heads are large as well, making them harder to get into tight spaces. They're also not as sharp as the 74001 & 74035s.
74095's are the newest basic pair of nippers from Tamiya. Sharper than the 74045s, a better angled head for getting into tight spaces, and all around pretty decent clippers if you can have them around $10-12 USD.
Starting work on the Mk-II tonight. I can't seem to connect to the IRC channel, my client's replying with "Illegal channel name".
The eshop only shows this picture, but I *think* it looks like the Tamiya 74093, do you know anything about that?
I have a question about the action bases, are you supposed to remove the to part of the cradles? from the blueprint it looks like they want you to remove the top part but it looks like they're still there in eg. the mg strike noir blueprint.
I tend to use:
300 work horse-seams/scratch building/large nubs
600 for nubs
800 for priming
800 -> 1000/1500 for smoothing/polish on unpainted
2000 and up tends to be over kill
Lots of different opinions; some people seem to be happy with 300-800 other people complain that theyre too rough and religiously stick with 800+
From experience 800+ arent very good for removing seams and nubs.
I reakon 600, 800 and 1000 are best are good to start off with.
Tamiya for masking tape, lots of different widths to choose from and it cuts cleanly so there isn't any loose threads to mess up the paint job. Use it for masking edges and use cheaper masking tape for the other areas.
I find 600 for sandpaper is enough to sand nubs, maybe 400 for larger places, then it's 800/1000 (also have 1200/1500/2000) for smoothing it out. Won't be perfect as there will be some sanding marks.
My first gunpla.
I don't think i will ever be able to stop now, next one will be char's zaku II MG 2.0, and hopefully the third one will be the MG Sazabi Version Ka Model Kit.
The guy who fixed the rusting waterlines in my house accidentally took my Knipex nipper (the one time I invest into one great tool instead of having to buy 10 over the years and it gets accidentally borrowed....), gonna get it back soon.
I need to be more patient when building Gunpla, that's what I learnt from the latest translated chapter of GBF Amazing. I don't have enough patience to sandpaper a nub for an hour or so.
I've been taught to cut somewhere inbetween the gate and the actual part so as not to damage the piece and reduce it down from there. I usually do with a hobby scalpel/x-acto-knife as the MURRKNS call 'em and try to reduce the nub with three different grains of sandpaper. If all else fails, I'll scalpel it carefully.
It was fun to do, maybe i'll get MOE Legilis as well to complete the pair.
So it isn't a good idea to detach pieces afterwards (or directly on the finished model) and doing some painting ?
I want to specify that i do painting and calligraphy with brushes so i'm pretty good at handling them.
Five hours in and main suit is done. Who knew building RG's was this easy and fun?
Is there a proper tutorial on how to use Gundam Markers? I've bought a bunch but they don't really stick to the untreated plastic, so I guess Gunpla has to be primed first..?
I know that I should press the Marker down until it Clicks in order to make the color come out, thank you.
Very therapeutic I find. HGs take about 2 hours at most to snap and fully remove the nubs but then you have several more hours to fill in seams, mod joints to allow easy removal for painting then paint in details that you'd use stickers for.
MGs take about 8-10 hours to snap and fully sand down and most of it is because of the inner frame rather than armor. On some of the newer releases such as the Nu ver Ka, Sazabi ver ka and that weaponfest that is the FA Unicorn, the time extends well beyond 15 hours.
RGs are just....fast for what you get out of the box. Tiny nubs for the most part, excellent color separation for the pieces. It's like speed building an MG in a smaller scale. My only complaint about the line is the sonic welded hands and how sub par they are compared to their competitor (Wave's.)
Well it varies depending on the kit, but I guess in general a HG would take between 2 - 4 hours, depending on it's complexity, and the amount of work I want to put into it. Obviously painting kits takes even longer, but I tend not to pay attention the amount of time it takes me to do that.
RGs I tend to space out more between several days but I guess somewhere between 8 - 10 hours.
And MGs are probably 12+ Hours, but again I tend to do just work on them in hour bursts and don't really notice how long they take to do.
8 hours for normal HGs, the more parts heavy ones take longer of course. Couple to snap, couple to fix all the seams and joints, couple to paint/detail up, couple to panel line and top coat.
MGs take me about a week due to snapping, elbow and knee plus any other part that rubs against another mods to keep paint from scraping, painting in sessions, etc.
Snap time is seriously cut down with some sweet ass nippers and a sonic toothbrush that I modded to use sandpaper.
If its just snap building with panel lining, decal application, and minor touch-up with markers to replace stickers I would say
4-5 hours for HG
7-8 hours for MG
with RG falling somewhere in between depending on the kit.
Katoki kits obviously taking longer because WARNING labels.
So if I wanted to convert a 1/144 Zeta/Zeta variant to transform similarly to the Bawoo, where would I start? I like the ReZEL, but its torso doesn't seem too suited to this sort of thing.
Re-engineering the torso isn't a major concern.
I heard F91 was small in scale compared to other gundams but...yeesh!
Also, WIP, will post when finished.
just buy this stuff locally or off Amazon. You dont need to import expensive tamiya brand nippers, they're not complicated devices. And its not going to make the final product any better.
If it's the red handled file underneath the cement, it's part of the Tamiya Basic Tool Kit. But if you're talking about that huge vibrat- er...electric sander, it's from a knock-off China brand called U-Star.
Saves a ton of time on sanding nubs, but too much force will destroy any colored pieces!
Never really liked Destiny before but this build converted me. Only top coat + some silver stickers left, gotta wait for good weather to fix that...
The RG will do that to ya. I loved it so much I bought the Westenfluss too. Then I started looking at the MG. Then I started thinking it's time to learn how to scrib-panel lines and make the MG into similar quality as the RG.
Then I realized I'm broke.
They're the 74095s I described above. I made an oops in my head, as technically the 74095 is a drill bit in Tamiya products but I was talking about those 74093s.
They're good cutters for $10-12 USD or your regional equivalent.
You don't have to apply the vinyl stickers for color separation but they actually do look good once they are applied.
So what would you recommend for a first time builder who needs panel lining pens? This guy I'm helping lives in Venezuela and needs some. Also he's planning (or already got) 3 mg kits as his first. I already said to either get fine tip sharpies or sakura micropens but he said he can't get the sakura pens?
I just ordered my first kit.
MG Acguy! But all the tools I have are a nail clipper, a promotion swiss army knife from American Crew(has a scissor and a file!), and a kitchen knife.
That has to do the job.
Thanks, I just told him to use a pencil since he can't get any. But I can't believe it when he told me that there's like strict laws where he lives and can't get some stuff outside his country
So I ended up finding the HG grand slam at my hobby shop for 25 bucks and got it. The sword is really awesome but I dont have any back plates for the hands that are compatible with the hands the come with it. Do the hands only fit with HG Seed Strikes or something?
>HG grand slam at my hobby shop for 25 bucks
3 second on ebay:
It's still scalper prices, but $17 for 2 sets is 1/3 of your price
I actually have those coming in soon I got the real one just for the hands and stuff though. I liked how they look and want a compatible back plate to the hands. The joint replacements make me want to get a strike.
Guys, guys, guys.
When the inevitable announcement for the MG G-Self comes out, do you think it will come out with a 1/100 scale
It sounded silly to me at first, but something like that would be needed for suits on extended missions. It'd suck to fight when you gotta take a piss real badly.
Hopefully. When I saw that the mg turn-A came with a cow I flipped out. So hopefully that be a cool lil detail.
But as for toilets in a mobile suit, I thought that the suits pilots wear had like a diaper sorta thing going on
came in today, i'll either put together later this evening or tomorrow night
Quick question /m/en. I recently bought a Sazabi Ver Ka. I won't be painting it as I don't have the disposable income to get an airbrush and everything else needed.
>but anon how could you afford a Sazabi Ver Ka and not a airbrush, etc.
I got it for $42 on amazon with a gift card I forgot I had.
Now, how would I go about applying the water slide decals?
For anybody starting airbrushing, don't make the same mistake I did. I was having trouble with my brush spitting blobs of paint, ruining the smooth finish. This despite knowing my paint was thinned enough and my needle was clean. After some research, turns out I was pulling back on the trigger, then pushing for air, resulting in a build up of paint that gets spat out when the air comes in. It's supposed to go; trigger down for airflow > pull back for paint flow, and reverse to stop.
Because most people love to put emphasis upon painting but in the end, dry brushing and some weathering do the job, especially with the new MG which are incredible looking out of the box.
>put decals in water
>put decals on kit
you can gloss coat it to be sure to avoid silvering
and you can get a setter solution in order to do the ones on uneven surfaces, I use microsol
Built my third 1/100 Zeta Plus C1!
These things are always kind of fun.
Somestimes you just have to put things that are OOS or Backordered on HLJ into your cart and make an order.
Then wait for it to get fulfilled. Some very popular items are constantly backordered for that reason.
>Not really man, they are on backorder on HLJ, do an order and wait for it to restock, nothing difficult, just a waiting game.
>Or just search around the internet, I think you will find it at a good price if you search long enough without needing to wait the obnoxious restock time of HLJ.
I tend to check hlj stock every few days, surprised I missed them if that was the case
"certain shops or sellers"? If you're implying local sellers, there ain't any where I live
Why are you coming off so negative? I'm suggesting that if you find a site you like, such as R4L or GundamPlanet, that you should just email them to see if they'll put in an order for you.
>They walk into room and see display of Gunpla
wow nice work cool robots
>They walk into room and see display of Gunpla
>"Anon, can I play with your toys?"
>SGT doing inspection of rooms in the barracks
>See's gunpla on display in my closet thing
>Hey, those are Korean transformers right?
Still being a dick man. Not once did Matt say anything about country of origin but you did for no reason, that's what being a dick is.
You could have just said that you don't have the luxury of emailing people without bringing up country shit
I like it's design and we'll how huge it is. I can't decide if I should get that or start with a simple one like the rx-78 3.0 ver
>girl friend visiting house for first time
>We walk into room and see display of Gunpla
>"wow I build Gunpla too actually!"
>>Hey, those are Korean transformers right?
Finished my Turn A today. It was fun to build.
I hate the stickers, will probably use markers.
As much as I love the Ex-S Gundam, it would be a LOT of work; probably more than the FA Unicorn...which I still need to paint. If not being painted, it's still a ton to do, but still worth it.
It's still an amazing kit, however. If you REALLY want it, go for it! If you like the 3.0, go for that if you're unsure about the Ex-S, since it's also a REALLY COOL kit.
>Friends see my collection for the first time
>"Dude, I love robots!"
>"Or, oh shit you collect Gundams?
>Girlfriend sees my Gunpla for the first time
>"That dedication is really attractive and cute"
>Later she asks for me for help with making her own models
I might get the 3.0 first mostly because I want an rx -78 and probably get the ex-s after.
> family sees me buying kits
> both dad and sister freak out about the building process
> "I thought you build them like Legos anon"
Honestly, a good choice. 3.0 is a fun build and has a enough parts/details to keep you busy. It's a very detail oriented kit with lots of gimmicks that is a VERY good stepping stone for the Ex-S. If you like transformable suits like the Zeta or ReZel, get one of those after the 3.0. Once you've built something so complex, you're pretty much set in terms of building capability for the Ex-S. If you'd rather just skip the middle road, go balls deep and get the behemoth itself.
Hey /m/ i have a question for you i was at comic con today & saw the 1/48 zaku 2 & rx-78-2 mega sizes. does anyone have any experience with either of these? i heard the zaku 2 isn't as good as the rx-78-2 as far as color and possibility goes.
>Little brother (15) see my gunpla collection
>"Hey, that's pretty cool !"
>Show him the Unicorn video listing all of the OAV models so he can decide what he like
> Want a Rezel type C
>Give him the Age 2 Dark Hound (space pirate ? He liked it a lot) of my backlog so he can try, and plan to buy him the Rezel after
>Even after offering help and tons of advices, one month later and he have only done the torso, spend all free time playing ASSFAGOT
Well fuck you too onichan.
Here. the articulation is not really good tbh, but I was totally expecting that getting this model. It's just the way it's designed I guess.
The legs can only bend so far and can't go higher than the skirt. The arm can only go 90.
It does come with some great extra stuff, too bad the hammer isn't included and the moonlight butterfly effect is a bandai shop exclusive or something.
>tfw the only person who ever built gunpla with me is my now deceased older brother
I envy you loved and unlonely people
>brother-in-law constantly gives me shit for liking to build models
>mother occasionally patronizes me
>family won't buy me gunpla for Christmas/my birthday because "They're toys and toys are for kids and you're 26!"
>Sister and brother-in-law are already weary of buying toys for their 11 year old son
I own the 1/48 Zaku II S. It's a very fun model, but it's there to look pretty more than anything. They have decent mobility, but nothing like their smaller counterparts. The RX-78-2 has a slightly better range of motion, but not by too much. For the price tag, the mode is still very much worth it.
Awwww yeaaah! The Plus series is definitely one of my favorite aspects of Gundam, just because of how cool the designs and concepts are. The models themselves are a little older, but are somewhat straightforward and give you a very nice finished product, even if you're just lining and doing stickers/transfers.
growing up I always hated the kids that didn't take care of their toys, every month they would get a new GI Joe cause they blew up the last one, a new gameboy cause they dropped the old one, a new box of legos cause they ate the old one
it's the same shit today, every girl I've known has gone through at least 4 smart phones because they destroy the old one
why can't people take care of their shit
It's cheaper if I do it this way because of the private warehouse thing. Although, maybe I shoudl have asked for the best and cheapest, I'm probably not going to spend $30 on nips unless they have tossels attached because god damn what am I some sort of rich person.
It's late...thanks for sand papper info...
I've gone through like 5 smartphones outta anger issues.
My family is actually surprised that Im patient enough to build models but not wait 5 minutes for a super slow phone to bring up the keyboard
>it transforms into jet mode by moving legs
>watching TV fiddling transforming it back and fourth
>goddamn motherfucking leg falls off
>joint was 2tight4me
>hambrabi is dead
>the day before
>no grade sumo
>tried to pull leg off
>the goddamn motherfucking leg joint comes with it
>try to give build figthers beargguy III longer arms
>use parts from scrapped original beargguy whose head fell off
>fucking break baergguy III's arm joint
WHAT IS WRONG WITH ME
That...makes sense I guess (what else would the crotch be for?)
>If Syd knew that cockpit was in chest the nuclear bomb would have been placed in the crotch of Turn A.
You what mate ? You want to panel line after gloss coat if you're painting or using panel wash.
Since you want to do gloss coat to put decals I suggest to use panel wash for the lining
It depends on how you paint.
I always do Prime-Paint-Line-Decal-Weathering-SemiGloss and have never had a problem. Even on Warhammer models I did decals and THEN topcoat.
Instead of just topcoating before decals, get a decal solution and setter. Worth it's weight in gold.
after watching afew reviews i'm torn between the rx-78-2 1/48scale and the 1/60scale the 1/60 is a good $40 more expensive, but the 1/48 is larger cheaper and has slightly less detail. any advice guys?
Bad luck I guess?
> first 2 hg kits
> v2 and zaku 2 Johnny ridden custom
> thrusters on zakus legs break off as I put them in
> glue it back on
> finish it, go on to the v2
> after finishing it the left knee keeps popping off
> look at it, a joint is upside down and back words
still need to fix that but this made me cry
> go to paint up the zaku. Removing pieces to prime, right foot breaks when I take it off
> look at the joint piece
> it had glued together when I first built it a year ago
I take forever to build a kit but I'm fucking autistic about nubs/mold lines/seam lines. HG Nobel and Archer both took about 8 hours. MG Nu and Sinanju both took me around ~50 hours to build. And probably double those numbers to paint.
Someone said "the red one"?
>tfw I have the waterslide of the model but I have too much fear of screw them up.
Welcome back ANT.
But yeah, this >>11504379 . Since they're harder to wrinkle/wrap like conventional stickers, waterslides are superior. They allow many more chances of lifting and replacing before you really have to finalize and settle it.
Not to mention they look much, much more like printed onto the surface after a simple topcoat.
My haul from NYCC today. Would have bought more, but I ran out of money.
time to take all that plaplate out and redo this motherfucker. this time properly.
yes i know i have made 0 progress on this in two months but i got sick and burnt out on gunpla ;-; gbf has reignited my soul
HGs are cheap which means you can use them to invent mobile suits for characters that in their shows never actually pilot a mobile suit.
I think I'm going to go with an absolutely terrible female character, but I can't decide which one. Pic related, it's the bunch I'm currently considering. Please help me choose, or make your own suggestion.
>That frown on the shield
Why so sad G-Self?
The chinese one from 00. She wears Cheongsams which make my dick rock hard
between the two I prefer the unicorns personally
Found the color scheme online, if you are interested btw
the 9 dollar kit of legend, hg jim, is forged
Usually if you file nubs with a hobby knife, or a file you'll make an uneven surface, so you sand it to make it "flush" a evenly flat surface. Or at least make it so there are no indents or unwanted bumps
Righto, thanks. Its my first time and with a GM Sniper
I like this I think I'm might do it myself. I'm thinking I can feminize a serpent with Tallgeese III parts, ad some sleeves-like trim (somehow), and paint it like this leo from G-Unit.
You'd probably be waiting a max of 2 months. I use to shit on them about them not having stock but recently they've gotten their shit together with getting stuff back in stock as quickly as possible.
it comes with a bunch of armaments in addition to the standard shield, rifle, and beam, sabres
boomerang blades, energy sword, beam cannon, plus the big wings
usually the amount of plastic needed for the kit is the decisive factor for price
Check your hands and see if they have a honey glaze or pineapple like coating on them. If so you may have hamhands. Also, borken leg joints are repairable.
built an RG char zaku and RG mk II and they are badass. next purchase is probably RG gp01, is this a good kit? i'm not into the seed aesthetic at all but I love RG kits.
also is the HG GM sniper II worth picking up?
btw i don't paint any of this shit, most I will do is dullcoat