**READ THE GUIDE***
***READ THE GUIDE***
For those new to gunpla/plamo or even just new to this thread; please read the guide. Please read it before asking questions as there is a chance it has already been answered there.
For those unfamiliar, "plamo" is a shortened form of "plastic model". If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here.
If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!
>Why won't anyone answer my question?
Try being specific, especially about your materials and process. Post pictures whenever possible; even if the kit/part looks bad, you are more likely to get help posting pictures.
A guide to other types of plamo:http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20(Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step).pdf
Kawaguchi Gunpla tips:https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJV1h9xQ7Hx-SoCOivVEHNDOl16VWLB3A
Gundam Lineart:http://seesaawiki.jp/nuriesozai/lite/d/MenuBar1 AND http://gundma.imgur.com/
#GundamFTWest Group Build Contest:https://gundamftwest.wordpress.com//
Another gunpla guide: http://funakatown.com/images/Building_Gunpla_Final.pdf
Old thread: >>13390386
get home from work with these waiting for me at my door.
dis gon b a gud weekend
Hey guys, I do commission builds.
Each HG commission is $100
Each MG commission is $300
Anyone interested? Post your email.
Pic related is my latest commission for a friend. Since it was a small kit I gave it a 25% discount. She loves it.
Man, I hope some idiot does fall for this. Anyone dumb enough to fall for such an obvious scam deserves whatever happens to them.
My Mack Knife's are ready to scramble at a moments notice. To defend Capital Tower, of course.
Anyone know where I can get more runway from? I remember these came from a 1/144 plane toy that I forgot about.
Nvm, found em. They're called Hot Wings runways and they come in packs of 4 for like 7 bucks?
Graze squad guy here, I got the first two Grazes built and I'm wondering which units I should start on. I was thinking about using the blue one for the melee unit since it's fast. For its main weapons I was considering the Freedom Ferder's tonfas?
As for the standard Graze, I suppose I could screw around with some heavy weapons I have laying around for the heavy unit?
Yes, but right now I don't have the money for the other four. Plus one of the four I need doesn't come out until next month, anyway. I'm going to try and buy three more Grazes over the next few weeks.
You could make the green one one of the two "regular" ones you were talking about.
The blue one can be either the melee one or you could make it your commander like it's supposed to be and think of what you're going to slap on it to make it commander-y. Like custom paintjob or gun or whatever.
Got my Exia R3 conversion kit and this is my proress so far. The plastic quality is on par with Model comprehend and there are some fitting issues as expected. I recommend sanding the peg where the tip if the barrel attaches to reduce its diameter as the fit is too tight. In the instructions, you need to cut off parts from the thighs inner frame. Meaning you may no longer be able to revert it back to normal Exia. You can not build 2 GN Swords as shown in the promo pics. but there are enough parts to build 2 GN Rifles.
Yeah, the Commander unit was the one I kept running into a roadblock with. I looked at previously released Commander units and there wasn't a whole lot of difference between them and the regular version.
Yeah usually "commander" just means a horn and a different paintjob, and maybe a gun. I guess you would have to think of what type of commander this is exactly. Beefy and hard-hitting or a fast Char-like motherfucker?
Well out of your ideas I'd say you should work on the melee one. Which I guess would involve making the head more generic since it's not a commander type anymore.
>Which I guess would involve making the head more generic since it's not a commander type anymore.
That's easy enough. Just switch out the head for a standard Graze head.
Also, I'm thinking I'm going to use Tieren legs for the heavy unit. Big, bulky, definitely able to let the unit stay still while firing giant guns with insane amounts of recoil even for a giant robot. and feet flat enough that it won't topple over by looking at it funny. Yeah, it should go without saying that the Graze has some balance issues. It also has an insane amount of moving parts for an HG.
I say go for the Hyper Gunpla Battle Weapon set and use the Scissor weapon in Dual saber mode.
Could also slap a funnel set on him. Funnels are criminally underused.
Oh get an imagination. I'm sure mobile workers still get shrekt by beams. And if not, why not use them for anti-personnel duties?
Cute little girls with rocket launchers hiding in that debris over there? Zip a dozen funnels over there and turn them into embarrassed looking piles of ash.
Less trauma for the survivors, too! Guy next to you gets riddled with bullets and is a gasping bullet hole filled chuck of meat bleeding out next to you? TRAUMA!
Guy next to you gets zapped by a laser and is turned into a nice and neat pile of ash? NO TRAUMA!
"Before quenching (when the red hot blade is suddenly submerged in water) smiths coat it with a clay mixture to cool the edge slightly faster than the back. The difference is only a few thousandths of a second, but it turns the edge into an even harder kind of steel called martensite. It also creates the hamon. In ancient times, its main function was to create a powerful blade. Today, it’s an opportunity for the smith to express himself artistically."
I doubt you'll be quenching 1000 times injected Bandai plastic, but you can probably do it just by masking the sword and then painting it. Just be very precise.
How's the quality of Kotobukiya kits? I'm thinking of buying this.
Yes, I perfectly know that Aldnoah.Zero was awful as a show, but the Earth Kataphracts had amazing designs.
I got a good look at an actual katana, and the blade edge from the hamon down, and this entire region has this look of brushed metal outward to the edge.
So I should either mask + sandpaper, or should I do a thin handbrushed layer of metallic paint to replicate the texture?
Found another work around.
Pick up a Unicorm version Dreissen and you can get this cool T-Link Ripper type weapon that both satisfies my funnel fetish and appeases your "HURRDURR NO BEAMS" autism.
Dang it SamuelDecal. He's not shipping his out until next week.
Meanwhile, I completed my first diorama type thing. Are you guys ready for Halloween? Doing any spooky builds?
Think the guy used stencils to write "Strike Fighter" and "Dra-C Meeting" on this kit or custom decals of some measure?
These poses are super awkward. Sorry. Anyway, that doing anything for you?
Bought a bin to clean up my shelf a bit/protect some of my backlog from dust. Was a pain in the fucking ass to move everything.
This is before...
...And this is after. A lot cleaner and a lot nicer. Bit bigger than what I would like, but the boxes are fucking huge
which never fails to make me smile when I think about it.
My mono-eye display as of now. I really need to get more mono-eye kits built.
Also a tad worried about dust, but right now it seems ok.
My Feddie display as of now. It currently shares space with the bin, so I might be moving it sooner rather than later.
And that's it. Now what kit is next? Preferably something mono-eye.
>those dust covered magic cards
Don't have any sticker sheets, especially for my mono-eyes. I have a 08th one from my Ez8 build and my Zeek Mk. II F2 STardust Memory one, but that's it.
Working on it.
Question. I can use a primer with parts masked off, right? Or will the masking tape peel off the primer with it?
Welcome to the Zeonic Fellowship friend.
Too bad you're never getting off this wild ride ...
Forgot to add my Hy-Gogg, but an RG Z'gok would be a fun non zaku mono eye to build
then an HG Gogg, HG Acguy, HG Zock ...
It's what that other anon said, Char Origin Zaku. Since you're new, it's an easy build with pretty nice gate placement for most parts so you won't really have to deal with visible nub marks other than for the lower legs and head.
That green looks good if you're able to light it up. You could always replace it with a modern MG variant if it comes with a different color
dat horrendus blotch of paint on its forearm
Guess ill call it a birthmark and accept it that way.
>That green looks good if you're able to light it up. You could always replace it with a modern MG variant if it comes with a different color
Agreed, but it might just be where I do a lot of art stuff, so I've gotten used to contrasting colors and such, and the fact that I prefer the sabers that aren't pink or green personally. I especially love the yellow/orange ones, not enough of those I feel.
maybe because those aren't safety nubs
dual saber scissor sword from the hyper gunpla battle weapon set is what's up
Fuckin sick m8, the wurger is next on my list of OG kits, so far i have the Alt, the R Gun, and well obviously the falken now. Gotta have that wurger to go with it; hopefully I can find it for a really good price like I did with the falken.
it usually appears in mandarake for 1800 yen or less, in fact, there is one now there for 2000yen if you look for it
I even went as far as getting the 1/100 version, too bad they only made 4 of these kits
damn lucky you, but I;m not surprised, you always have some of the coolest kits; it's a good thing you do them right. I'll check mandrake after my next paycheck cause I can't justify ordering just one kit at a time from them, thanks for the heads up on where to get it!
The uppermost head lens usually isn't molded to be separable. I'm not talking about the eyes, but the topmost camera lens.
I tried reaching in but I kept having to correct the missed strokes and wick away spillage with a toothpick dipped in thinner.
Hg shuffle alliance when? I built the old hyper mode bolt last night in two hours. Pics possibly later but I'd like to give it a quick going over of hold paint to erase where the nubs were cut. Should I sand it too? I normally do but I'm afraid of messing with that sweet chrome.
So last week I was just theorizing, but I decided I WILL order a Gaplant Hrairoo and Barbatos and see if I can't kitbash them together
Too bad they'll never make the much better designed kg-7... That poor thing never got to do anything besides that one time rat used it to kill
fist lady with it.
Well, it got a MegaHouse figure but
>7300￥ and Sold Out.
You could always just paint the Sleipnir olive drab before applying decals and get something similar-looking, but yeah that's not really a decent substitute.
I'll be fucking pissed if Koto ended up making a Tharsis before it made an Areion
I don't want to turn this into an A/Z shitposting thread, but I find it absolutely fucking baffling that they got Eggs to execute the plans.
Surely it would be better to risk your disposable soldiers like Marito and not your genius who comes up with all the plans you rely on.
Eggs was the only competent person in the entire earth forces, unfortunately.
I'm probably gonna go for it and get the KG-6 if I have the chance. The being bad can't make the design bad.
I wish there were a KG-7 kit. Imagine how much cheaper it'd be without the big dumb leg wings.
Apparently Mandarake's got a regular Clanche if anyone wants it http://order.mandarake.co.jp/order/detailPage/item?itemCode=1030038463
Here's one for 4k yen, which is cheaper than the Sleipnir plamo: http://order.mandarake.co.jp/order/detailPage/item?itemCode=1032009068
Anyone got WAVE Votoms plamos? Are they good? Where did you buy them?
Pretty sure the F91's V-fin looks like this.
Man, it's nice how everything SEED just fits into eachother
isn't it because they're all based on the strike or something fam
i was hype to begin with then i realized i have no inspiration to do anything with one, group build time?
Why not just straight build it? It looks cool.
Everyone has such a hard on for customs but I straight build 95% of my shit with detail paint and panel lines and topcoating. Maybe some seam welding.
No, bought the Launcher and Sword separately at Yellow Submarine in Akihabara, parts shop, though it cost more than the entire MG package to buy them like that, but what would I want with the old Strike?
Yeah, I'm usually not to careful with inner frame nubs since they usually won't show depending on the pose. Not into sanding really.
I get what you mean, I usually don't either but I try to get rid of the ones that show. That's pretty cool that you can buy the parts separately. The old MG looks better, because with the remaster it's like they tried to change random shit that didn't need to be changed like those retarded die designs on the shoulders
I have the old IWSP and Noir too but I really liked this one better, more parts separation and cooler decals. Though the old Strike seems to be regarded as the first "modern" MG here it's still 13 years old now.
Really like how vibrant the clear red turned out on the chest and forehead jewels.
Shame about the misplaced vent stickers though.
Also, it's kinda anti-climactic depressing to find that a pic reveals imperfections that your own eyes could not detect. Now the orange overflow on the face is gonna bug me forever.
Useful if you can read moon or if we can translate the whole guide. Otherwise don't bother and just look at armor/tank modelling guides.
You say that but looking at this shit drawing. I just realized that you can make them using Denial and Build as a base but you are gonna be going through a whole tube of putty
This is kinda sketchy, it also costs like 5 times the price of an average gaia metallic paint.
After Perfect Strike I finally got the last part of Buster top coated too, only Blitz left but I can't decide whether to use Matte coat, semi-gloss or Clear... probably not clear but matte just doesn't seem shiny enough for that suit.
I don't know how I feel about this
They would be really retarded to not make a Revive/Origin GM since they could milk it forever. It wouldn't even be that hard. They already have the Revive Gendums and the HGUC GMII was already really good.
>Harrison's is white, kiddo
Yeah but his mobile suit is blue.
>Let's cannibalize the clear parts off Extreme Gundam and slap it onto G-Self
How's the articulation range on the Extreme Gundam? I might wizard up something with it to make G-Self more flexible.
>tfw getting kotobukiya anubis
>all those paint apps to be put
>all those panelines
>finding it so fun to paint it and put effort on it
did i finally lost it gunpla thread?
Are my /m/exican compadres here?
What are sprue cutters called here in Mexico? Are they available in any hardware store?
And what about pic related?
one here, as they said, just look for an x-acto
also, if you are from the DF, there is a Tamiya shop in the south part, near San Jerónimo, it is a good place to buy some supplies, mostly topcoat
for everything else, you can order them cheaper online
wouldn't it be easier for you to cross the border and buy stuff in the US? anyways, as far as I know, they are simply called "pinzas de corte"
they are not found exclusively in hobby shops, you can find them too in the tools section of any home depot or total home store
no problem, but as I said, almost all the tools you need, knives, sprue cutters, cutting mats, etc, can be bought online, at least I did in HLJ
the only real trouble is the damn topcoat, I use tamiya because there is a store nearby, but so far, I have not found something that can serve as a substitute
Read the guide faggot.
But short answer:
primer is always best, especially with paints, acrylic is pretty weak.
If you are using a spay can you don't really need primer.
If you are going for a lighter color, or painting over yellow or red, primer is probably a good idea.
while I like the clear purple parts, they are a little too dark for my liking, they don't really stand out as I would like them to do
nice, might get one to complement the double X, but the X doesn't have the divider right?
I don't know, I just want him to settle down or go away. I'd rather him asking dumb questions that's in the guide than him saying he doesn't need the guide.
I'll do my part and never reply to him regardless.
>I'd rather him asking dumb questions that's in the guide than him saying he doesn't need the guide.
But thats literally saying you don't need the guide. Asking such general questions about primer is as basic and covered as it gets when it comes to the guide. Don't encourage it.
Not him, but my thoughts exactly. If anyone is going to feed him his (you)'s, then at least let them be posts to go read the guide. That and experience from actually doing something,
anything, is what noobs really need.
Finished snapping together my Stargazer today, going through the legs right now to take care of seam welding.
I'm gonna grab some plasheet and try making a face mask for this. Probably won't be able to split open, but it'll be removable for sure.
How do I paint in this part (in circle) with a brush? It's like masking off the surrounding area in a 1/144 is gonna be a crapshoot.
the wiki didn't have shit and i cant watch anything right now
can i get some info on this bitch
i got it cause it looked cool
It's literally just sonic the hedge hog
my local hobby shop had it marked down cause they are having trouble selling shit
there are 2 competing in my area and i chose the one that has the lower prices at the time
i got it on a whim
So my airbrush (Badger 105 Patriot) is working in terms of spraying air. I can keep it at a consistent 20-25 PSI range, so it's suitably connected and all.
I'm going to hop by Hobby Lobby tomorrow and get paints and putty. Already have plastic cement. It'll be my first time using putty or cement to seam weld. How should I approach ventilation so it doesn't harm my lungs? Is my respirator overkill?
BOO! Was hoping it was on Amazon. Still have this free trial for a couple more weeks.
WOW thanks! Been looking for more poses for muh baby!
It's piloted by the "self professed genius pilot Mick Klim."
Mick Klim is an embarrassment to mobile suit pilots everywhere. He's basically Patrick Colessar in that his sole claim to fame is that he's gone up against the protag several times, got shot down each time but survives to fight another day. He accomplishes pretty much nothing of significance in 23 episodes and acts like a know it all smart ass when he's really dumber then a bag of rocks duct taped to a box of hammers.
That said each of his suits are very stylish looking and would make great display pieces IF THEY WERE IN FUCKING 1/100 SCALE!
And he gets a super cute waifu who adores him, so I guess he wins at life even though he's a complete failure in every other regard.
>He's basically Patrick Colessar in that his sole claim to fame is that he's gone up against the protag several times, got shot down each time but survives to fight another day.
Either you don't know what a protagonist is or you didn't watch the show.
>And he gets a super cute waifu who adores him, so I guess he wins at life even though he's a complete failure in every other regard.
Again. Either you didn't watch the show or pay any attention to it.
If I wanted to get a good Exia Repair kit, what would you guys suggest? The metal build looks amazing, but fairly expensive. I stumbled across some MG Ignition kit that had Exia + Repair parts in it, but I'm not sure.
I just want to get the best version of this sexy, damaged beast possible.
>constant pony music
he ruined a gundam
>it was one of the shitty chibi ones
i mean if you are going to, atleast he did the stupidest one
>Mick Klim is an embarrassment to mobile suit pilots everywhere. He's basically Patrick Colessar in that his sole claim to fame is that he's gone up against the protag several times, got shot down each time but survives to fight another day. He accomplishes pretty much nothing of significance in 23 episodes and acts like a know it all smart ass when he's really dumber then a bag of rocks duct taped to a box of hammers.
Except he was right about everything, especially the Towasangans' plot to use the fighting on Earth as an excuse to build a new space fleet capable of traveling to Earth so they can conquer it while the Earthnoids are busy fighting.
what do you guys think of this over lay for streaming gunpla building?
ill move all the shit and clean it up
also what do you think of the concept of streaming gunpla in general
>I'm going to hop by Hobby Lobby tomorrow and get paints and putty. Already have plastic cement. It'll be my first time using putty or cement to seam weld. How should I approach ventilation so it doesn't harm my lungs? Is my respirator overkill?
No, wear respirator while spraying. You should really have a spraybooth if you're in doors but failing that hopefully a big open window that you can spray right out into.
Dem ghost dust particles, invisible to eyes and only appears in photos.
Canadafag here. It's ironic that GundamPlanet is more expensive to ship here than HobbySearch.
What are my other choices aside from Mocks to experiment and get messy with panel lining, stacking pla-plates and trying out masking and shit?
I am going to spray with my airbrush in my garage with the door fully opened and my respirator on. I know you obviously don't spray the plastic cement and putty, so you meant for spraying paint.
For the seam welding specifically, what should I do for safety. I can do what I do when using the airbrush and use my garage or be indoors and open windows, whatever works. Don't have a spraybooth.
Honestly a simple dust mask would do. There are no real fumes from seam welding, since you generally just apply the paste to the parts, then let it sit for three months so it finishes bonding.
>And he gets a super cute waifu who adores him, so I guess he wins at life even though he's a complete failure in every other regard.
Are you dissing the best girl in the show Mick Jack? Did you even watch the show?
Are you being serious? That sounds like too much.
Ok, I'll just do it indoors with the window open then, should be good. Is what the other guy says about three months to cure true?
Have like 20 others at my other house.
Post a pic of your most recent kit/WIP. Pic related, the Crossbone X1 that I finished up a few days ago.
I tend to have everyone throw out numbers and we go from there. This saves me the hassle of Ebay. Any interest I have a new email since the others are too well known
if you understand math then you should know that every thing can be averaged
My current WIP and overall progress.
Spoilered for gore and disturbing images
and shitty camera pic. Browsers of a weak disposition may wish to look away.
I want to kitbash her with something but not sure who/what yet. I have the 2013 customize parts and the most recent customize campaign parts so those are options too...
Think I forgot to focus the camera properly.
I need to pick up a second one so I can have the pair. I kinda want to do like, one's melee focused and one's ranged focus so they look like a cohesive pair. Or maybe just have both as long range for double the firepower. I don't know yet.
Neat, been meaning to grab an Adele. I'll pick it up with the Jager when they get restocked in November
unless it/they get delayed in being restocked again.
When it comes to brushes, you really get what you pay for so make sure you buy a good one.
It takes some time and skill to brush paint on evenly, and it's not something you'll just get right the first time.
So keep practicing and you'll get better.
I was pretty much using a really cheap one from Dollar Store, with some awfully thinned paints, and with the lack of items to make painting easier(small containers for mixing and things to move paint with). Definitely getting better stuff soon.
Went to the hobby shop, kinda surpised that they still had all the third party kits, but they also had a couple of lightning zetas and gself perfect. Bought the lightning zeta since the desgin is sexy
I actually meant thinning in the airbrush cup. Is that ok? Like, add as many drops of thinner as needed and mix with the paint that is in the cup? I'll get some glass bottles when I can too.
Also, looked up movement methods. Seems disposable pipettes are the way to go.
Ok, so between what you and >>13403791 said, what's better for mixing? Glass bottles or paint trays?
And disposable pipettes to move from the bottle/paint tray to the airbrush. Those can't take lacquers very well, from what I read?
Got it, I'll pick trays and pipettes up some when I get the chance. I'm not necessarily using lacquer (mainly enamel or acrylics where I live), just wanted to be sure for future reference.
Long time lurker here.
(yes, I've read the guide)
Curious about this kit
I've not built any Gunpla before, but I have a lot of experience with 40k and model car kits, so I'm not new to modelling and painting. Just wondering what the feel is like for anyone that does both.
I know it seems to me that most people will say start with HGs for first time, but I'm wondering what you might say to someone who has some experience already.
Has not so great ankles which make it somewhat difficult to stand on its own. Looks great on an action base though. I've only built normal mode, can't say anything for repair mode
Weather has been shite lately so I can't go and paint the rest of the shoulders or do any other touchups.
Last one in my backlog more than a week ago.
Planning on getting the Barbatos and Graze soon. Would be my first HGs and attempt at painting.
Also planning on a first custom using a bootleg MG Quanta with a knightly theme.
I am using titanium silver and I am noticing clots are forming even though I thin with alcohol.
Why is this happening?
But I think it is a good time to get a rattle can of Chrome for when I want to paint blades
This is a new level of shit posting.
Using actual picture name marks in blown up pictures of the original pictures posted here.
I know we should not give it attention but just so you guys know.
Mind letting us know what brand this is from? Some brands like Tamiya require their own thinner. I've heard people tell me otherwise to save my money and just use 93% alcohol, but I'm getting fine results with the Tamiya's recommended 2:1 paint to thinner ratio.
I'm holding off posing for now till i borrow off some decent camera
Started out hating the Quanta too, but shit kinda grew on me the more I see it, enough to be my first MG.
The main body itself is great, it's the upgrade the Exia deserve. But the weapons loadout is shit, a single long sword and an ugly ass shield with sword bits gimmick. The sword with the bits is ugly as fuck and I never liked that sword ends shooting beams.
That's what I planned on changing in my custom, give it Tallgeese-like shield or a kite shield.
Maybe add a lance or something with a cape and a helmet tail all knight-like and a silvery colour scheme.
The main reason people say to start with an HG is not because of the difficulty, but rather there's a good chance you'll mess some small stuff up, and it's better to mess up and learn on something that costs less than 20 bucks.
The only difference between HG and MG is the number of parts really
Yeah, like I said before, use Tamiya's Acrylic Thinner. 2:1 paint to thinner ratio.
Pic related is my own results. MS Launcher 01 katana was used as a testbed for Alclad Gloss Black Base and Chrome Silver. I was a bit impatient about it, and it ended up as a regular silver instead of a chrome. So I just decided to improvise with some Tamiya Acrylic Clear Red, which came out pretty great.
More like 1:1 is too thin. That's the ratio I used before and everything took forever to paint when waiting between coats.
Still not showing. The headbust on the other hand.
I know that I shouldn't, but the BURNING NEED for that Sinanju, Jagd Doga, Klim Nick Jahannam is pushing me to the breaking point.
Name your price, mortal. I shall pay it.
Surely you can punch harder with thrusters on your arms right?
All you're going to do is spin around in circles. I mean, I suppose you could win your fights that way by giving your opponents a wicked bad case of motion sickness, but I think you'd get one, too. Then it's just ten minutes of puking and falling over.
The G-Self looks surprisingly good with those arms/legs. I kinda want to see someone modify them to be more like the G-Self's originals. (Colors and the little bits on the calves)
Wait so if I hit the deadline for HLJ private warehouse shipping, will it be shipped to me for free?
I felt distressed about this and found no other place to post it.
That's a Swedish flag. An insult of tremendous level that somehow only Finns could detect.
I am soured on gunpla forever now.