**READ THE GUIDE***
***READ THE GUIDE***
For those new to gunpla/plamo or even just new to this thread; please read the guide. Please read it before asking questions as there is a chance it has already been answered there.
For those unfamiliar, "plamo" is a shortened form of "plastic model". If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here.
If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're expereinced, don't make the new people worry!
>Why won't anyone answer my question?
Try being specific, especially about your materials and process. Post pictures whenever possible; even if the kit/part looks bad, you are more likely to get help posting pictures.
A guide to other types of plamo:http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20(Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step).pdf
Kawaguchi Gunpla tips:https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJV1h9xQ7Hx-SoCOivVEHNDOl16VWLB3A
Gundam Lineart:http://seesaawiki.jp/nuriesozai/lite/d/MenuBar1 AND http://gundma.imgur.com/
#GundamFTWest Group Build Contest:https://gundamftwest.wordpress.com//
Another gunpla guide: http://funakatown.com/images/Building_Gunpla_Final.pdf
Old thread: >>13453790
Anyone here from U.S.? I need to know if gginfinite alredy ship the mg altron.....worst service.....never going to order ther again
$8, free two day shipping - I saw a chance to fuck around without any consequence and took it, have I fucked up?
Got these chinese wings for my rg. Hope i won't wait long.
Breaking news, the newest HGUC Revive has been announced!
And it is...
Because it's not an MG and we're not talking about MGs and it's not for people who only want to buy MG versions of suits.
MGs are for people who want the best version of the MS they like, not manbaby "collectors" with snafit HGs talking up half of their childhood bedrooms.
it's all about the target market. bandai almost never market their MGs to kids, as opposed to HGs. MGs are generally viewed to be somewhat (although not per se) on par with vehicle/army modelkits which are not exactly kid-friendly.
In japan, maybe, but people in the west are more likely to see them as big toys that you build. Not that it really matters what other people think, all that matters is that you have fun with the kits you buy
You sound like a huge whiny baby. Imagine being elitist over your robot toys.
What do you mean by "fun"? I mean enjoyment, and if snapfagging is what brings you joy then I say go for it. That said if you're not putting effort in (sanding, nub removal, basic panel lining .ect) and looking for critique on that effort, then I would recommend not posting here. These generals are clearly meant for critique, suggestions and the free exchange of ideas. If you're looking for a pat on the back there are other places to go.
Just finished my first ever paint job, glad I picked RX-78-2 because I messed up painting and since it's cheap it's not too big a loss.
I thought I was a genius for spray painting the whole tray instead of individual pieces, so I realized I was a retard when it came to cutting them out later. It was definitely fun though. I'll post more pictures tomorrow with a non potato maybe.
>spray painting the whole tray
>painting the whole tray
the guide is there for a reason. At least it wasnt a total loss. It looks OK for a first effort. You should touch up the crotch V with some yellow.
MGs are for hamhanded faggots who lack the dexterity and overall skill to work with the far superior 1/144. 1/100 is a wholly arbitrary scale that does not scale with anything else, and exists only to let lazy fucks make kits since real gunpla is too hard for them.
I usually go for crocodile clips mounted on wooden skewers stuck in a block of dry foam.
Great for airbrushing/rattlecan application.
I hand paint though, so I prime with a rattlecan and then hold the part by the skewer while I apply details.
So you're saying you don't take off your trip when you blatantly shitpost or when you're really desperate for (You)s? I'm giving a (You) right now when I should know better and not reply to bait. 10/10 on the execution shitposter. You stirred up alot of crap in the last thread.
Why is Graze and its variants so sexy? IBO sure has the best looking grunts in recent Gundams.
So where's that guy who was claiming this was going to kill FAG?
Okay hold the fuck on, he isn't the only one who likes those kits
You people who don't want anybody to talk about G-Reco kits are literally as bad as the guy posting his "collection"
Possibly worse since there's only one of that particular jackass
Part of the issue is that there is already 3 graze kits being released withing a 2 month period. A fourth feels even more excessive and they have more designs on the way in the series that they want to time gunpla releases for. So since the regular releases went to the mp version, the kai, and chocochar, char's fucboi got relegated to P-bandai since it doesn't require any new parts.
Ok, let's make a Graze for every recolour in the series.
We have Graze, Space Graze, Graze Kai, Schwalbe Graze, purple Schwalbe Graze.
These aren't Zakus, you can only put so many out.
No idea. They look like all the same set as well.
It's so they can reuse the hgbc powered arms powereder set.
That's what I don't understand.
Normal SDs come with choices of different eyes, looking in different directions and such.
Why spares of the exact same thing?
I'd say for recasts, but the eye part is a seperate molded piece unelected by the face expression and I feel like anyone who can recast can probably paint anyways.
Maybe the manual will explain it.
So we're all just using snapshit's thread? Well okay then.
Full review of the Super Blunder.
I own multiple grunt suits. Thunderbolt Zaku's, Z'goks, and Adeles
Five, actually. Here's the second P-Bandai IBO kit.
>I call the Schwalbe the Blue Graze
>Literally this is a blue Graze
On one hand I'm glad because this P-Bandai shit is nothing but a recolor, but on the other hand I'm thinking "fucking really now." How lazy can you be?
top kek kotobukiya btfo this is so much better than FAG
>mfw I woke up to find no one made a non-shitposter OP last night since I fucked up OP
AMURO DIED FOR OUR SINS YOU FAGGOTS
>what is sarcasm
You must be some sort of retarded mongoloid rice nigger. Go learn some English before posting on an English board you brainless fuck.
Never really been interested in FAGs, but now I'm curious.
To anyone who has a FAG, are the eyes on it pre-painted? Or waterslides, or what?
How can Bandai's plamo be so inferior?
Also, judging from the review linked in >>13460133
how does the articulation on a FAG compare to Super Fumina?
Imagine all the people who bought the Super Fumina the second it went on sale online. It sold out in minutes. Imagine all the people who bought it from someplace like amiami so they couldn't cancel it. Imagine how they felt when the pics started rolling out. Now the reviews. Their orders are shipping as we speak.
There are multiple pre-painted faces with different expressions (which are easily swapped out) AND wet transfer decals for people who want to change the skin color.
Articulation's about the same.
>mold the eye brows in color
>but couldn't mold the eye brows in black
this is awful, did they really think this was a good idea?
I think including waterslides for the eyes would have saved Super Fumina.
Besides the horrible eyes, it just needs a proper pink paintjob for the spats and a few grey touchups.
Would it have killed Bandai to bump the price up a few hundred yen?
Super fumina has the superior articulation, fags have the superior faces.
Fags eyes are predone for you, but you also get some spare sets of eyes on the waterslide sheet if you decide to paint the skin on it and need to reapply them.
>How can bandai's plamo be so inferior
Bandai hobby doesn't have nearly as much experiance as koto at making models of girls. They also don't do prepainted parts and including waterslides is very rare so they have to rely on stickers.
To top it off, super Fumina is a decent bit less expensive than the Fags (which on release were around MG level prices).
>including waterslides is very rare
They do it all the time with MGs.
>super Fumina is a decent bit less expensive than
Kotobukiya's prices are always a lot higher than Bandai's because of how Bandai's are produced in their own specialized factories in Japan while Kotobukiya orders shit from China.
It's times like these that make me wish gunpla battle was real.
We'd have FAG users claiming theirs look superior, while the SF users would probably perform better due to (slightly) superior articulation.
>Bandai will never learn
>Super fumina sold out on preorder
>Will probably keep selling due to mecha musume cute girl model
>Implying they need to learn anything
Pic mostly related.
>retarded snapfaggot gunpla performing better than Kotobukiya kits built by real modellers
Sure if you completely ignore everything your shitty show says about better built kits performing better in the game.
I can't stop laughing at the Super Fumina. It's like Bride of Chucky.
China's factories are actually cheaper than Japans. Gunpla is cheap because they get the license for next to nothing, reuse the hell out of molds, plan to continue profiting off the kits for years, and geared their factories to mass produce them. The kits they make for non gundam series tend to be a bit more expensive at similar quality because they need to pay more for the license and don't have plans to profit off of long term or reuse a lot of parts typically.
And I should have said "waterslides are very rare on hg". I think I can count the number of hg that come with waterslides on one hand.
You wake up in a dark room, bound to a chair. This is the face you see. Scale of 1-10, how afraid are you?
the blowjob will be amazing
The manual is up on hobbysearch. Even professional modelers hired by Bandai for the sole purpose of making the kit look the best it can without going full waterslides and shit on it, cannot make it look good.
It's shit. It's pure shit. You can't make it look good if you're just "decent."
Just buy some anime eye waterslides and you got a good cheap base to make custom.
Like I said earlier, the raised areas make it easier to paint in details unlike the Koto where it is just a flat surface
Maybe file and sand the lips down a little while you're at it. They protrude a little too much for an "anime" style face in my opinion and it gives it a weird uncanny valley effect.
Sounds good but I would like to try put paint for a lipstick effect since it is a raised surface.
I really want one for the custom potential...
Everyone should know by now that all the kits from the HGBF line require moderate degree of work
Give it a soak in warm soapy water and rise off to remove any dust from sanding the putty (Wet sanding especially will leave build up in things like panels on the part) and allow to fully dry before priming.
No they don't. There are kits like Lightning Gundam or Fenice that require zero work whatsoever. The most you have to do is detail painting on something like Kampfer Amazing or the Build Strike backpack.
On the Super Blunder you basically have to redo the entire face.
>haha Super Fumina the best FAGgots BTFO
Ok. I'm using putty/seam welding and all that for the first time. This putty (Perfect Plastic putty) is water soluble. How does that factor into everything? Should I not wet sand/give it clean up with water? Still haven't started yet since I wouldn't want to undo the actual putty by wetting it while sanding.
So how come they were able to get Goku and Luffy right and not Fumina?
Fuck. Well, I have a full bottle of the stuff and it's already open, may as well finish up. Since you have experience, what should I be doing after it has dried onto the part? Being that I'm an idiot, I didn't use the little plastic nozzle that came with it to pour it onto the part and used a regular applicator instead, it went on slightly thick.
My options are:
Sanding sticks (400/1000/1500/2000 grits)
Metal sanding files.
And do I wet them at all considering that?
I only even used the applicator once. I always just applied it with a toothpick, waited like 10-20 minutes, then wet my finger with water to rub off most of the excess and lightly sanded with 1000 grit for the remainder. Then I'd prime to see if it needed more putty or sanding and touch it up as needed. This last step you'll end up doing with almost any putty you use though.
My wee wee glows with an awesome power!!!
It's amazing how bad they fucked up the Super Fumina when they did so well with GN Archer and Nobel. Instead of even doing a new gigantic mold for the Super Cumdumpster they could have made it a custom of Nobel with a different face and hair and saved a lot of money, and it probably would have turned out better.
Bandai literally did everything wrong.
Ok. Well, as it is thick (pic related, first time so I was clueless) I guess I'll probably use the harder grits and work my way up?
>inb4 hotglue jokes
Goddamn those cheeks are way too prominent. Bandai Hobby couldn't walk down to the Tamashii Nations guys and ask them how to do a female face?
Bandai is literally saving anime
Stuff like the eyelashes, eye brows, and eyes are molded detail and entirely seperate pieces in the case of the last two. On the FAGs those details are entirely flat and just waterslides preapplied for you, requiring you to reapply them if you paint it with basically no way to change the color or paint them in.
Happy birthday, Tomino! My MP Elf Brook is done.
My applicator was too large, and using a flat tool on a curved surface with no knowledge of when it is "done". I'm not one to argue, I agree with you and see this as a good learning experience.
And here is the transformation modo. I prefer this to the original because it doesn't have annoying crest-swapping for the head.
So, I cleaned up as best I could. I believe I accidentally overdid it on some parts, which way seems right here? I'll redo whatever needs more putty, this time applying it correctly.
I predict the upcoming OVAs will introduce super versions of Mirai, Gyanko and Shia.
As shitty as it turned out to be, Super Fumina sold out. Bandai has no reason to stop making them.
I actually might buy a couple of these for my future devil custom. Remember how he has those gundam heads that would come out of the ground? I originally was gonna use a bunch of shining or gm heads, but her head is scarier
Even if you painted in the eyes on the Super Fumina it's still going to look worse than a FAG because her eyes will look sunk the fuck in and uncanny. Not to mention her face is all weirdly bulgy and she's got a creepy smile.
There are actually people trying to defend this by saying "hurrrr but FAGs have to use waterslides" as if that isn't going to look better than all the alternatives. Face it, the Super Fumina was a mistake, it was not the FAGkiller you all thought it'd be.
So I got $160 in points from that invite thing promo Tokyo Otaku Mode had. Since their product selection is literally garbage tier, I am willing to buy one anon something with my points.
>HG Gundam Age FX price being boosted to $100
God damn it. It will never be printed again. I wanted one
AGE-FX is getting reprinted this month dude
They inflated the price so they can get a quick buck.
I just got to building the MG MK-II's head
GOD FUCKING DAMMIT THERE IS NO EXCUSE FOR THIS SHIT.
It is a Upscaled HG gundam head. The head vents have to be painted in and are not separate pieces
is it the 1.0 or 2.0 MK-II?
How should I be priming parts that need have no place to grip? Nothing to clip an alligator clip to. Lay it on a flat surface and spray? I would need to move it around to get to all the sides, and I would assume you shouldn't be touching it as it just had primer put on.
That still leaves that tiny part that you attached putty to unprimed, what about that? Never have had to go back and do a second coating, sorry about my newfag priming skills.
There should still be a part that isn't visible to the viewer. An underside or connect that latches onto something else. Put it there, retard. Why are you so fucking dumb? I don't even line my toys and even I know this much.
It is not about gimmicks it is about color separation. Why is a MG facemask molded as one piece?
Why is the outer head two pieces and not 4?
I also just discovered more gripes with the 2.0.
The forearm armor does not stay closed. Will post pics soon.
>Zakus get all the love
>tfw Gelgoog gets almost nothing
What? No Hygogg love? Personally I think it's one of the better looking aquatic Zeon suits.
>zeon hail from space colonies
>60% of their mobile suits are amphibious in the original series
Looks better than 1/2 of the OGs man. Gogg and Zock are ugly as fuck. Z'Gok and Acguy were the only good OG aquatic suits.
>Is there any reason for FUN to exist?
Wrapped up my second kit last night. Never tried topcoating before but I'm tempted to make my first attempt on this one.
How viable is it to paint kits with spray can paints?
I can't really invest in an airbrush and I want to take the next step after snapping, sanding and lining.
You don't use putty like toothpaste, dammit.
You squeeze putty onto a plate/sheet and then spatula it onto the gap finely with a toothpick. Then you burnish in that mound into the gap and then swipe away the excess.
Ideally, you want to have the putty dry roughly in the actual contour of the body shape, and as thinly as it can stick out of the surface.
People dilute putty with plastic cement too. Usually Tamiya putty with its brand plastic cement.
I thinned it using the tamiya thinner (yeah I know, use enamals for detail painting and don't use tamiya for hand painting, I'm poor damnit) and I defiently mixed it with a toothpick. Maybe I didn't add enough thinner or too much?
I'm curious did AGE kits sell poorly or something? I keep seeing many of them for dirt cheap on Amazon.
Haven't watched AGE yet, it's a lower priority, and the general feeling I get about it, is that is mediocre.
I love that small people model from cheap Daiso train model toy. It gives the Gunpla some sorta depth and height
AGE has arguably the best engineered kits of all time. It's just that the toy commercial was shit
Ya I'm afraid to pick up a MG Zaku 1 because the engineering is so old.
That and the older gundams from that era need 2.0s. Particularly the Alex, both GPs, and the RX-79.
Some of those have knock on effects for suits of the same frame as well.
The GP02 will be the hardest for them to make properly and expensive too.
Thats pretty cool. Ive seen some stuff on hlj and amazon of people that size
Isnt also the other company that aired it (not sunrise) have like extreme rights on em that made age not appear in some stuff not affiliated with em?
Tamiya is really damn hard to handpaint with. Id reccomend using some retarder on it so it doesnt dry fast
AGE kits are fantastic. Especially for the main Gundams. The Vagan kits are iffy because of the tiny feet and huge tails giving them balance issues and the designs themselves also work against them. You basically need an action base and even then there's a lot to be desired.
Never used those types of paint so i cant really say anything
But i love my jap friend. This was a good kek
>Browsing under HG and 0079 only brings up the Mega Sized kits
>Private Warehouse shows up as empty sometimes even when it's occupied
>Sometimes post kits as a "_____ Restock" and never does restock
It's just HLJ's website being shit like always.
It's just kinda embarrassing to me that something so integral to the franchise like the ZZ Gundam is completely neglected.
And yeah, the engineering is a nightmare. The ZZ has the articulation of a Barbie doll, and can barely hold its own weapons up under its own weight.
But that's not the worst part. The plastic injection is wonky, leaving banding in the coloring at times, so you're basically forced to paint them.
They sold out so thoroughly that it fulfills their definition of Discontinued.
I wouldn't say ZZ is integral, you could excise it and replace it with a movie trilogy or an OVA series that at the minimal would need to cover Haman's fate and the purus.
But the yes the early Gundams and some of the grunts need 2.0s
>I wouldn't say ZZ is integral
>Shows what happens to Axis - a huge dangling plot thread from Zeta.
>Shows what happens to the Argama/AEUG.
>Demonstrates the complete moral degradation of the Federation/AEUG and gives important context as to why Char would want to go full bad guy.
>Gives Kamille a good ending.
>Introduces key idea of a 'Gundam Team' to the franchise.
>Forms the foundation for pretty much everything in the recent and popular Unicorn.
>Gives us the best Gundam protag and the best collection of women in the franchise.
People don't give ZZ enough credit.
First time being here. I've just received this little beauty in the mall today.
It's going to be my first MG. I've already built 8 HG, only snapping them and only recently started going back over some of them for some quick panel lining.
I really want this MG to be my center piece and I want to push it to the next level.
What do you guys recommend?
Should I go for a custom color scheme?
I wanted to go the full lenght with glueing, fixing seams with putty, sanding, painting, panel lining and a top coat to finish it off.
I went over the 2 guides and plan to ask my local hobbi store guys for some advice.
>>Forms the foundation for pretty much everything in the recent and popular Unicorn.
I'm still mad that they decided to make ZZ canon with UC. Atleast Judah fucked off to never be heard from again
>Stamen is worthless without the junk in the trunk. I don't see them making a MG Dendrobium.
>Might get a re/100 Dendrobium but that is a very long shot.
Where are you going to put a gunpla that's 1.4 meters long??? Why not just start making 1/100 scale models of the freaking White Base while we're at it?
>Resize yer image
But I don't know about going all out with your first "real" kit is a good idea.
When you say snapping do you mean literally without nub management/sanding? If that's the case then maybe you should work on touching up those other HG's before you decided to spend the time and effort to probably fuck up a more expensive MG. Either way I think you should probably go ahead and fix up one of your other models to work out the kinks and get a feel for it before you accidentally Red Cliff your Unicorn.
But I already have a Zaku, even though it's a HG.
Forgot about resizing, I'll keep that in mind sorry.
When I say snapping I do mean with nub management, just a bit of sanding. I have some pictures of my HG, if you're interested. I'm currently retouching a 00 razer.
I just think it could be redone better now to better fill in between Zeta and CCA and so it can better mesh with Unicorn with better animation as a OVA series or Movie trilogy.
Have all or part of the stuff you mentioned, and throw some CDAish back story in for Haman, some Londo Bell founding towards the end, a puru 12 cameo and some Char plotting in the background.
You seem to enjoy it and I think it's average that could have been done better. So I don't think we are gonna move each other.
I think the other anon was suggesting the Zaku because of the simpler design compared to a Unicorn.
The kits look fine but I still think you're better off practicing on an HG, I only recently got into full painted builds and I'm glad I started on an less expensive kit before I started assembling/painting the metallic Unicorn I was planning or else there'd be a hot mess of putty on every seam line.
Basically, you'll regret your mistakes less if they happen to on a less expensive model.
I misread your post slightly, before you do that kind of work on a MG learn those skills on cheap HGs first.
It doesn't matter if you have a Zaku, the 2.0 is one of the best MG frames and generally the cheapest MG that isn't a Ball. It's a good learning experience for MGs.
Dalong rates the 3.0 pretty high. Don't own it so I can't say. I do own the HG Zaku F2 and the MG Zaku 2.0 and I'm glad I bought the 2.0 even though I had the same thoughts you did. I just had to see why the 2.0 was so liked by people up to today. It's really a nice build that I think everyone should build atleast once
You all raise an interesting point. I'll give it a go on my zaku probably. Try the glue and all the other things.
Do any of you know a good place to order or buy gunplas in montreal/canada?
Hobbywave has pretty good prices and a flat rate shipping cost of $12 to Burgerland and Hockeyland but they usually don't have everything in stock. I don't live there though so I can't tell you about any local places.
It meshes just fine. Summarizing/remaking it wouldn't provide anything new; those 0079 and Zeta movies weren't made to clarify anything or make things mesh, they were made to expand the audience of an already popular thing and cash in on its popularity/nostalgia.
And you haven't provided any further explanation as to why ZZ isn't integral, which is the root of why I disagreed with you. (I think a series of movies or OVAs would be great for celebrating ZZ, not for misguided notions about replacing it in canon.)
Ah it's more that I feel that you can go from Zeta to CCA without missing much and had CCA been longer or an OVA series to fill in the gaps you wouldn't need ZZ.
At the end of the day it feels like ZZ didn't really do much besides being bring Axis in and Haman's story getting wrapped up.
Poorly in my opinion.
It's too strong of a comparison but it feels like Try, a quick cash in riding the wave of popularity of Zeta.
How absolutely disgusting is this color scheme for the V2?
The original lineart was on .gif format so I accidentally hit Save instead of Save As so it saved like ass.
And yeah it's meant to be gold.
Alright. Thanks for the insight, mates.
I don't want to go overboard with the gold.
I guess I forgot to mention it was supposed to be nu colors on the V2.
I'd change up the skirt armor a wee bit.
If you were actually going for the nu, then you should probably use less yellow since it's actually sparingly used on the nu, that and it's supposed to be a very dark blue rather than grey
give it yellow feet, there arnt enough gundams out there with yellow feet.
>Atleast Judah fucked off to never be heard from again
yeeeeeeeah about that...
it sort of is when all that shit tacked on to it purges off.
Okay here is the arm problem i am having with the MK II. The thing just wont close and the seam for the opposite side is too light.
I am probably gonna have to use my exacto and a a strip of plaplate to make the mark and seamline the armor later