My commuter whip and my sporting whip.
They're both dirty from winter riding. I'm gonna strip them, clean them, and do yearly maintence on them here shortly. Once I'm certain there's no more snow. (it wouldn't be the first snowy April I've had here in Illinois.)
Fresh off today's (brutal, bone-jarring) road race.
Poor thing, it's 8 years old this year, and was never intended for the punishment I dole out to it, week after week.
Say hello to the pleb machine.
Short distance commuter/errand bike. Nexus 3 in back, pretty comfy to ride but not incredibly fast.
Fuck yea carradice. Does it rub your legs though? Ever consider a bagman support? Awesome bike as always. Those bottles though- whyyy
I like it. Cool photo too. Needs less foreground though
Raise your levers and tilt your bars down. Doesn't have to be parallel to the ground, but shit, can you even ride in the drops?
Pic from last summer. It's sitting in my apartment without wheels, casette, stem or handlebars right now, but I'm going to fix it up within the next couple of weeks, and then perhaps sell it.
That's cool as fuck, especially the headset and fork, damn, tapering like that is my fetish. Is that a columbus sticker?
Have you got an even nicer ride now, or just choosing fat lazy mode?
With nicer wheels and tires would be 10/10
The chainring isn't that big, it's an illusion created by the small wheels, the bike itself is also smaller than a normal bike.
Never really got to changing to clipless but I will still buy some one day
Flags are for kids, and I neither ride with a helmet btw. Oh and I don't use jerseys.
Yeah. I had them up like that for winter. It game me a more secure grip since I wasn't even in the drops. They're righted how, but I don't have a picture.
Postan' half assed picture because I'm that lazy. Not sure if I'll run a soft tyre on the rear this year, too many punctures.
I think the rain is gone -- might as well clean it today or tomorrow.
This was my Bachelor's thesis at MIT in 1974 - modified since then, shown here in the MT Washington Hillclimb configuration with a 20-18 gear! 12 lbs.
>at least tell me it's locked out
It is, can't remember the last time I rode with it unlocked.
Picked this bike up used a couple years ago not really knowing anything about bikes, just gave it a new lease on life recently. I'd replace the fork if I could find a dirt cheap, non-sus fork with a 1.5" steerer. 'Till then, it'll stay as is.
>Tight fitting mudguards
I don't think I could tolerate such a short toptube.
>Two bottle cages on a singlespeed
Especially not with such narrow handlebars.
>Evidently historical, yet tasteful paintjob
>Brake levers oriented for use with pinky finger
>Suspension on a road bike
>Tidy cable routing
>Position too high (or arms freakishly short)
>Unbearably boring paintjob
>Significant parts out of shot
>Use of non-SI units not approved for use with the SI
>Off-road bike that requires taking a hand off of the bars to shift
>Millimetres of clearance at the brakes
I was about to call you stupid for thinking your bike had such a thing - then I realised you had a Cannondale and verified that that was the case. As >>796741 says, you'd be better off getting a reducer headset than holding out for a fork with a 38.1 mm steerer. Very few forks were ever produced with a straight 38.1 mm steerer, and most of them were ~180 mm travel.
Have since changed the front brake, got an M755 for pretty cheap. Also got some Boxxers coming soon, not 100% sure but I think they're 2005 World Cups (silver stanchions) with 2004 crowns, dunno if they have the ti springs. The crowns are white and the lowers have a shitty paint job so I'm going to repaint them, anyone have some colour suggestions? I was thinking of red.
Picked up this Quintana Roo Kilo with Rolph Vector Pros. Very fast I'm liking it. Going to most likely take the bullhorns off and add drops, along with possibly removing the aero clip ons.
>everybody gets a number on the rating thing
>I GET A LETTER
Where is our friendly endorser of the International System of Units when we need him?!
Anyway, I ended up giving a good overall clean on the bike and took an equally useless picture because shitphone, but at least the entire bike is on it now.
Really happy to own this thing.
Here's the bike I was riding earlier today, picture from 2013 but it's still pretty much the same.
TT frames have steeper seattubes than typical road bikes.
I'm not the previous anon, and I think the guy with the QR should do whatever makes him happy, but yeah, putting drops on that bike is going to produce some weird handling and finding the right stem may be a challenge.
...but it already makes the perfect commuter bike
>someone at my uiversity actually does this
Behold, my shitmobile!
Acera drivetrain, Deore brakes, XCR fork.
Absolute piece of crap, love it to death.
I already know about the BlackRedWhite thing. And no, I don't really care.
Thanks for all your help building this up /n/
Got this last week and it's my first bike with drop bars and pedal-feet attachment. Loving it so far but the bar-end shifter is a bit of a pain (worth it for hydros though).
I'm glad you guys ride in "cities" that make a front suspension on a commuter seem pointless, but in real cities, there is so much shit in the roads, paths, bikeways etc that using a front shock is never to be discouraged, but heralded as the bold deviation from tryhardisms that pollute the potential for personal innovation in each cyclists style. Potholes and eroding roads are a fine reason to run a comfort and control enhancing spec that minimally effects performance
IMO this just looks like a very fragile bike and I don't really like trusting old carbon and old aluminum plus those wheels have so few spokes. I think this is a tri bike intended for light use and that would be my main concern for repurposing it, not the geometry.
Just rolled past the 4000-mile mark for this year. Gonna be putting this bike away today, and dusting off the roadie for commuting.
It's also time to build up another polo bike and get the team back together. World Opens are going down in Boston in May.
>inb4 "NON DRIVE SIDE HURR DURR"... There was 80 pounds of shit on the rack and I didn't feel like picking it up. Also it's hiding the shame of a rusty chain.
Hm. Good to know, I might look into it at a later date. For now I'll just leave it as is. Zero money spent on this thing is more money spent on my other ride.
>I don't think I could tolerate such a short toptube.
>Especially not with such narrow handlebars.
It's very much an upright citybike, and being a not-go-fast ride I wanted some narrower bars for comfort, so I cut about an inch and a half off of each end. It rides quite nicely.
>I was about to call you stupid for thinking your bike had such a thing - then I realised you had a Cannondale
Yeah, kinda blows after the fact.
I just want you to know I fucking love your bike. 10/10 would ride gnarly dirt trails with. Miss the blue bar tape though.
Quick question, do you have your hoods angled inwards or do the Cowbells just have a reasonably pronounced flair to them?
I can't shake the feeling that the frame looks like it's made of PVC tubing. Of course it isn't, but that lighting immediately made me think of such.
suspended forks were invented so you could bomb down hills with drops >6 inches all over on an MTB at >20mph until you were at the bottom.
in cities, you have to stop/start all the time. a downhill doesn't mean you get to go fast if there's stop signs, lights, and traffic trying to right hook you. there's plenty of debris and potholes, fat tires are enough to absorb those since you aren't going as fast and they aren't as big as what a sus fork was built to handle. it's just a lot of weight with no pay off.
I'm this >>796478 guy.
>where's that at?
I live in Denmark and that's a generic field some 25 kilometers outside the city I live in. The angle from which the photo was taken makes it look like there's a lot of flowers.
That thing on the fork is not a Columbus sticker, but the frame is made from Columbus Thron tubing, so it does have a sticker on the seat tube. I have a commuter that I have been riding everyday for that past year, but I havent got a new road bike (yet).
How do you like that frame? I'm considering buying the pro sl 2000.
>Evidently historical, yet tasteful paintjob
I actually hated the paintjob when I first got it, it took me some time to like it. I thought it was cheap looking, like a toy bike or something.
Always that white garage door with the squares in it. Is it something you must have in murrca?
Thats nice. I would change the cables for an other color, black maybe.
>dat frame color
>old DA stuff(?)
10/10 man, that's beautiful, very well executed. What crank is that?
I'd ditch the straps but I have to get off and ride an elevator every 10 or 20 minutes so I'm gonna keep it compatible with my nikes
straps that fit big BMX pedals like you have run for like 10 bucks on amazon
Or you can get these http://amzn.com/B002SR9ANG which supposedly work more like a clipless cleat
>Early 00's BigShit with a custom front triangle
Please tell me that isn't what I think it is.
>Appreciable ironically as a historic piece
>Serviceable first TT/Tri bike for some up-and-coming poorfag as part of a heart-warming tale of triumph over adversity
>Front mech cable end excessively long
Utterly tasteless, 4/10
>Moderate carrying capacity, yet only one bottle cage
>Clashing frame-mounted pump
>Mostly high value:money compnents
>Appreciated for what it is
>Intolerably shitty fork
>Tastelessly coloured components
>Brake levers angled quite steeply
>Evocative of a summer's day on a forested coastline
>Wear evidently from use
>Impeccable photographic skill
>Paintjob has suffered with time
>Drop bar hydro discs
>Front light angled excessively low
>Ugly wheel reflectors
7/10, go for some proper flats or SPDs
>No spacers above stem
>Tight-fitting mudguards on off-road bike/off-road tyres on on-road bike
>Extremely washed out
>Rear light possibly obscured
>Rear seatpost reflector almost certainly obscured
>Ugly spoke reflectors
>Using suspension for comfort
>Relying on suspension to deal with potholes
>Using SI units
>Using correct unit symbol
>No space between the quantity and the unit symbol
>Unadulterated urban fixie
>Knows what he's got
>Paintjob that tries but fails
>Looks out of date, but not yet retro
>Gaudy Easton logos
>Aggressive position with cargo carrying
>Please tell me that isn't what I think it is.
Well it's certainly not a Big Hit. It's an Elan DH Pro (also sold as the Remec DH Pro which it also says on the top tube, I think they're the original manufacturer and then Elan rebranded it). The front triangle is carbon fibre, the rear end is made by Risse (there's also a VPP version with the pivots on the chainstays instead of seat stays).
In my personal opinion it's just as easy to pull your foot straight back as it is to twist out.
I've had some pretty serious crashes while working in snowstorms and such while strapped in. Just make sure they're tight enough that you get efficient power transfer but loose enough that your foot can slide in and out.
Thanks : ) The ride is really great.
I did some paint touch-ups, but yeah, I might do some more and I will de-rust that brake nut.
It's 105 mostly. Crank is Pro-lite Resana. Wheels are 5800 hubs and Pacenti PL23s 32/36. Original 600 headset and brakes. Cinelli 1A and 44cm Nitto Noodles. Selle Turbo saddle.
looks like one of those spinning light things to me
I highly appreciate your praise. I define it as shitmobile due to how most mtbs here in /n/ are mostly high-end, where this thing is, at best, low-mid.
I started riding a BSO with full tourney components and started upgrading until there was no more BSO left. Don't get me wrong, the fact that it's a generic frame with random components don't make it a bad bike, but I can't afford better. So, to /n/'s standards, this thing is shit. But I love it.
>Intolerably shitty fork
Agreed, but it's best of the best in shit-tier forks.
>Brake levers angled quite steeply
That's probably an illusion from the photo, wheel turned, landscape angled downwards, whatever. They're properly adjusted related to my forearm angle.
Still, I take that 6/10 as a good thing.
You missed the point faggot and further proved mine.
I agree that tires ran at low psi work well for providing comfort and result in minimal loss of performance or efficiency, but many people cannot even explore the option due to insecurity of not being a true hardcore cyclist if they do not ride around everyday on thier tomassi with 140 psi 21c racing slicks.
More upright positions allow for less body weight to be suspended by your arms. So a suspension is a good means to alleviate that.
Even shitty suspension forks without proper preload can be started without power loss. Why boast a true cyclist can be comfortable on a rigid bike when you just illuminate your ignorance of a true cyclists capability to be fast on a comfortable bike?
NASA invented memory foam to cushion the boys blasting off at 1.21 gigawats, but now Fred's around the world are using that shit at a meager 1x gravity. Bike innovations have many origins but only tools get stuck on how to use those innovations via trends, marketing and /n/.
The more you cycle, the less you will give a shit how cool you look and the more you will use the technology that exits to exploit its function.
Moved to London and brought the bike over with me. Didn't cost extra or anything.
Plans for the bike: New saddle (black), some hoods, and some chainrings that aren't BioPace. I know it's kinda ugly as it is, but I got the saddle for free and I couldn't find decent hoods for a reasonable price back in South Africa, so had to use the bartape like that.
Gonna try find an old MTB to use as commuter/daily ride.
They're not hoods, theyre levers. Hoods are the rubber bits that cover the levers. I wouldn't change a thing on this bike unless it was uncomfortable. Looks great! Keep it maintained vs superficially altering it.
No what I meant is that I had to wrap the bar tape around the levers because I couldn't find hoods for the levers. I know what's what.. but I would like to have actual rubber hoods because to me it looks weird. It isn't uncomfortable though so I am not in a huge rush.
As for the superficial alterations, i don't intend to go that far. The chainrings are old though, so I'd like to replace them at some point with normal ones. My rear mech also needs to be replaced as it's original but is coming to the end of it's life. I can't tune it properly because there is really a lot of play. As for the saddle, sure that is somewhat cosmetic but I really hate that it's white and has a lime green detail. Again, I'm not in a huge rush but as soon as I get some disposable income I'll be looking to get a new one.
Thanks though I'm glad you like it
>Quick question, do you have your hoods angled inwards or do the Cowbells just have a reasonably pronounced flair to them?
I've got them in line with the of the ends of the bars; so tilted slightly inwards.The flare of the cowbells isn't all that dramatic.
He's not talking about style, he's just talking about function and he's completely right. You are the one obsessed with coolness. Your anti-style nonsense is just as impracticable as this imaginary rival commuting on 21c slicks at 140psi you're all hot about.
That guy has a suspension fork by accident. It's perfectly fine on a casual bike, but that doesn't make it a good thing. It's just not THAT bad.
The only reason suspension forks on non-mountain bikes is a thing at all, is because they were once fashionable and a huge marketing trend.
The mountain style bike trend was toppled by the fixed gear trend and suspension forks became uncool. That doesn't make disliking them any less valid now. You are basically just trying to be cool and 'free thinking' at the cost of common sense and actually thinking.
That one bottle that requires both hands to open and close and you might as well have a picnic while you're riding. That bottle instead of regular bike bottle is like bringing your le cruset cast iron casarole instead of a goo
why are you so interested in my drinking habits? i'm not a professional, i can spare a moment to stop to get a drink..
also i commute 12 miles, i usually have a drink before i go out and when i get to my destination i have a sip, sometimes i don't even do that. I'm not a pro and I don't pretend to be, I don't need to sip while on the move every mile
You should drink about 1 bottle every hour. If you never ride more than 1 hour well... ok
But you should still get a second cage, because you can stuff food / other things in it. It's really useful.
The bottle is fine. Drinking while you're riding is dangerous anyway. Campagnolo recommends stopping your bicycle in a safe place before attempting to remove your bottle from the holder or beginning to drink.
Lol. They don't recommend that, it's just legalleese for covering their ass. They don't want to get sued when some dentists goes down because he can manage to keep a straight line while pulling out his bottle and he claims that they didn't explicitly tell him not to do that.
Lol, could you imagine watching races where everyone stopped to pull out their bottle when they needed to drink?
Got this second hand not long ago but still in great condition. Been great so far even if it is a Halfords bike.
my specialized enduro comp 2015 , i am in love every time I ride, shame I cracked a chunk off the break lever ring on my last ride and need to figure out a better looking fix
Anyone know what I got?
My commuter...it's getting a total overhaul this weekend. The frame and fork are soaking in my bathtub with hot water and Simple Green, and i'm cleaning the fenders and rack right now. New headset, new wheels, new crank+BB, all new bolts, new brakes+levers, Gonna put gears back on it (I was running it as a SS for winter), and maybe even get a new rack.
2013 Reign X, not much on it is stock except the bars and stem.
The shock isn't upside-down, that's the way a CCDB Air shock fits in most frames like that because all of the adjustments are above the piggyback reservoir.
I had a pretty bad back injury so I kept my bars at a bit of an incline for a few years. But now that I feel slightly better I dropped them. I raced a lot a few years ago but haven't had much time lately with school raping me.
Just took this one.
I'd say my favorite thing to do on this is climb
>non driveside photos
Pretty flashy though dude, i'm jealous. You should go white bartape. Also, could you flip the seatpost clamp around and make the rear brake cable run less sharp?
Same to you, picture is from the wrong side, jesus, it's not hard.
>that taunt front brake cable
>that shock rubber
>that red strip on sidewalls
10/10 bike, welcome to /n/
just finished a full rebuild and deep clean, just annoyed that the decals are under the clear coat, and waiting on a narrow-wide and new pedals.
Just got it cleaned and tuned up.
New bar tape, new 105 chain and casette.
>i-is it nice, /n/?
Its pretty okay.
I like it.
A clean decent well rounded bike.
You should upgrade to clipless when you can afford it, if you ride recreationally.
Try to learn to trackstand first (easier to learn on flats).
Try out high priced slicks if you ever want to treat yourself.
Ignore this silly flip and slam your stem meme.
Some days I think /n/ wants everyone riding a pursuit bike with a slammed nitto jaguar.
Not plebshit if you have it set up nicely or ride the shit out of it
pic slightly related, a Kilo WT set up beautifully IMO. Not mine, although I wish it was. 10/10 would spin all day long.
>front brake pad rubbing on tyre
>dirty bike being allowed inside
New forks on.
First thing I did when I got them was weigh them, I figured that was the easiest way to tell if they had the ti springs in, and they came in at 2.85kg which seemed about right (even a bit too light). Get them fitted and give them a quick test and something definitely wasn't right, turned out there was almost no oil in them. Pulled them apart (which was fun, and a lot easier than I thought it'd be), checked them over, reassembled and filled with oil and now they seem pretty good. They don't have the ti springs and the rebound damper may need replacing (it works, just can't adjust it).
Total weight comes to bang on 20kg so a few hundred grams heavier than before (that's with wider bars, a new front brake, and the forks). Measured the head angle more accurately and it's sitting at 63 degrees, bottom bracket it a little over the axles (about 350mm) at 395mm.
My new bike i got today, cost me £500. Hybrid Trek :)
Finally got around to putting new tires on my bike and rode it to work today. Somehow broke a spoke in the process. Should be good to ride on until I can stop by a shop.
Cool bike man, looks functional as hell. Also, dat fork, and dat crank.
Someone on /n/ pointed this out to me a while ago (thanks).
I think you have the same style brakes as mine (maybe not, someone can correct me). You need something to catch the cable, because if it brakes, it snags on your tyre and locks your wheel which would be very nasty (see sheldon on cantilever brakes). They changed the design after MTBs where introduced because of a series of nasty accidents.
I like mine a lot now that I finally got them setup nicely. Adjusting them is a total bitch (tightening the brake pad moves the brake pad). Kool stops improve them a lot.
For the front, I just cut a wheel skewer and glued an inner tube thingy on the end (it threads into the caliper brake mount perfectly). The rear is just a random bent piece of aluminium with a hole drilled in it bolted onto a fender mount.
Also get some end caps on your shifter cables so they don't fray & some bottle cages & racks if you commute on it.
Noice. Hubbub 10 on 9? Does it work well?
Fuck i hate DH bikes lol. Only because I suck at riding DH. The one time I did some gondola DH i bailed after smoking a cone and sent the rental bike about 100m off a cliff. It did not give a fuck and I kept riding. They're tanks.
Instead of a shit bike in disrepair, you have a top tier functional bike in great condition, kudos. Needs bottle cages. Maybe move your levers in a bit (maybe not).
cool bell man
Don't get him down anon.
>if straddle cable comes loose it could snag tire and lock wheel
This particular tidbit is one the more dubious tips Sheldon wrote. I'm not saying the idea is wrong, because sure it could happen - but the odds of you breaking the brake cable or having the straddle hanger come loose during a ride are extraordinarily low unless you've really messed up somehow during cable installation. Just saying...
Haha yea ok, fair point. Sometimes I think maybe I revere Sheldon a little too much.
It certainly hasn't happened to me yet. If it ever does though, I will sacrifice some goats to based Sheldon.
"Traditional cantilevers used two separate cables, a main cable running down from the control lever, and a "transverse" or "straddle" cable running between the two cantilevers. The main cable would be clamped to a triangular "yoke", a sort of hook that pulled up on the transverse cable.
These worked OK until mountain bikes came along, then there was a rash of bad crashes caused by failure of the main cable. The cable would part at the lever or where it passed over a pulley. When the main cable let go, the cantilevers would spring apart, and the transverse cable would catch on the knobs of the tire, causing sudden wheel lockup...ouch!
In response to this, Shimano developed the "link wire." The link wire replaces the yoke and half of the transverse cable. The main cable goes through the "button" that serves as the yoke, and extends down to one side of the cantilevers, supplying the other side of the "virtual" transverse cable.
Use a reflector bracket, fender or other device to prevent the transverse cable from catching on the tire. This may still be advisable with a link wire. Check for yourself whether it could contact the tire when the cable is disconnected from the lever."
Actually most of my weight is towards the front of the seat. I sit directly on top of the seat post. The saddle is longer because it's an Adamo. Last century I did I had a Chicane and it turned my dick purple so had to get a tri seat. Doesn't look awesome but no more numb dick and feels fine to me.
Not a great actually. Before I got this I raced on a 1992 specialized m2 road comp, dropped almost 70 pounds, then got that bike. Don't be upset because it's nice.
Read the post about my back injury you doofus. As long as my back doesn't hurt I'm okay with a bit of an incline. I'm not going to be a pro racer any time soon lol.
Yea the seat does look odd that way but actually i sit directly on top of the seat post. Adamo saddles are lengthy. You sit way to the front of them unless in the drops.
heres mine. does anyone have more information on diora? what country were they from? seems to be a columbus frame
No it isn't, it's on the headset top cap. Pic related is a slammed stem.
105 minus crankset, Bridgestone 550. Original bars, stem, seat post, and a Selle what seems to be a Turbo.
My first real (road) bike here. Been riding for the past two years and making small adjustments here and there. It still feels jittery with a front load though.
Elan DH Pro, also known as the Remec DH Pro (Remec is the original maker, a Slovenian company, and Elan rebranded it). They started making them around 15 years ago (George Atherton rode one) but this is one of the newer models so probably 10 years old or newer.
My old DH rig. I miss her, but where I live now there is no need to have it so I parted it out and absorbed the funds into my AM rig.
I have the money to start fixing up my bike now, but it's still in rough shape.
>a new rear tire
Don't really know if I need to do anything with the shifters.
But, I still love the damn thing anyways.
Comments and advice are totally welcome.
Looks nice, long chainstays on that. Did you always run with the seat that high?
To be honest for the majority of my off road riding I'd be fine with a mid travel bike, but there's some stuff where I'm glad I have this. In an ideal world I'd just build up two bikes but for now I'll make do with this.
The M6 had interchangeable dropouts so you could make a longer wheelbase if you wanted. 9.5" of travel and the long wheel base basically made a bike that could barrell over any massive terrain.
The seat probably looks a little higher than it was because of the camera angle, I'd run it about an inch lower than the bars.
Looking at photos of other M6's with the seat level with the bars it looks like you've got at least a couple more inches of extension in that photo. This one for example:
What did you end up replacing it with?
Here is my current Mountain rig. 2010 Specialized Enduro Comp with some blue components. Tore my durraileur off on a trail, so the one shown in the image is no more
I also have a street trials bike
>Anyone know what I got?
yeti SB 66 (alloy)
fox float 36 with 160 mm travel, kashima coat
fox float CTD shock, kashima coat
mavic crossmax wheels
xt crank, 2 x 10
xt shifters, xt shadow plus mech
hope x2 brakes, 203 mm front rotor 180 rear (floating, sawtooth)
reverb, non stealth, 125mm drop
maxxis high roller tyres, tubeless
shimano DX flat pedals
fizik gobi saddle
ODI lock on grips
how did I do?
I just bought both of these this weekend, another working-project motorcycle (84 Honda Shadow VT 700) and my first carbon road bike (Spec' Roubaix Elite) Thing's worlds apart from my 1980's steel Mikado
too afraid to show your face lol you are an idiot
also your shirt is cringe worthy
why the fuck do you have platform pedals? at least get straps if you're not going to ride clipless
i hate you
you give cyclists a bad name
I didn't see anyone recommend a superior $900 bike. I think the CAAD is a fine bike for the money.
A lower position (to a point) is more aero. When someone tells you 'slam that stem', they're telling you that they think your handlebar is unfashionably high and that you should do as the pros do and lower it, regardless of how it may affect your riding.
>I didn't see anyone recommend a superior $900 bike
Yes you did. You just ignored it because you believed the hype about the frame mattering the most when the fact is the CAAD8 is a mediocre frame and not much better than any other generic entry level frame. If you got a CAAD10, you might have some basis for your argument.
loosen the stem bolts, those are the horizontal ones
loosen and remove top bolt and cap
remove one or more spacers (those round washer things that sit just underneath your stem)
replace cap and top bolt, getting the right tightness for this top bolt can be tricky
you actually might want to look up a guide for this part specifically rather than listening to people shitposting on /n/
tighten stem bolts, making sure the stem/bars are lined up perfectly with the wheel/fork (this is also tricky)
This probably isn't relevant to you, but it's a good fact to know: when clamping a stem to a carbon steerer tube, you always want at least one spacer above the stem, because clamping the carbon right at the cut end is much more likely to crack it.
Centurion 5/5 Motobecane 4/5
Would 5/5 but that fork looks painful.
3/5, 4/5 if that's your main bike for trails.
I want to like this but I can not tolerate this 14 spoke tomfoolery. 1/5
tubes still 2fat
4/5 -20 points if you are a hipster faggot
I thought I'd like this more with proper wheels but that text on the top tube is just awful. 2/5
5/5 seat+adjustment looks like pain tho.
4/5....4/5... Fuck it, 5/5.
Oh wait, disks! 4/5.
2/5 please add drops and use on a track.
3/5... nah, 2/5
I want to 1/5 this but I like single chainrings too much. 2/5.
Still a 5/5 would steal
3/5 -1 for FSA
4/5 if not fixed, 1/5 if fixed.
5/5 if you didn't have stupid aero spokes.
I got fed up adjusting these fuckers all the time and stuck V brakes on mine. Now I just have to worry about getting those damn travel agents in and out.
5/5 even though I still hate those stupid wheels.
It's a 55 Micro Switch TA. Basically the air version of the 55 RC3 Evo except it has travel adjust and lockout.
Has a little bit of that top end stiction that all air suspension has, but you don't even notice when you're on trail and the trade off for adjustability is worth it for AM riding.
You clearly have no concept of what it takes to ride legit trail with any amount of speed or fluidity.
DH bikes are akin to DH skiing, a purpose built descending platform. Have you ever rode legit DH trails? Is DH skiing not a real thing either?
You're a moron.
Does anybody have any recommendations for a kid who's attending a large university next fall? It's really bike friendly.
I've been looking at the Trek 7.2 or 7.3FX, but I don't exactly understand the differences between the series. What does 7.x mean anyway?
The numbers are just model designations, with the higher numbers coming with slightly better parts, Trek could have just as easily named them something else though.
They're decent bikes for paths and very basic MTB or road -type use, would be fine for trips around or near a college campus. Avoid the 7.0, 7.1, and 7.2 Disc models though, I've built those at the shop I work for and they come with some really awful components that will actually hinder your riding.
>4/5 -20 points if you are a hipster faggot
What if I'm just a faggot? -10?
>Originally published in Bicycle Guide, February 1993
He may have had a point then, when mountain bike technology was almost identical to road bikes.
>Then when you do that 1% of your cycling that actually requires a 'real ATB'…
oh, to see your local fred's faces when they get fucking dropped by your steel/105 combo.
she's very nice, anon. personally could do without the lettering on the rims but that's hardly your fault.
bretty gud, but I personally would not bother with clipless on a commuter. I'm running MKS Lambdas, nice performance/great value flat pedal.
if you can modify the mount so the basket will hang lower and closer to the head tube, that will help with the jitters, but they will always be there compared with an empty basket/none at all. potential problem, though: if you do that and the basket compresses the cables past a certain amount, it will engage the brakes.
guys, it's not his fault he's retarded, he's canadian. he probably works at the Seagrams plant and stays drunk all the time, anyhow.
this is what happens when we let the troll bike thread die