/BQG/ - Bike Questions General
Deal With It Edition.
i can't rationalize buying anymore bikes.
I really want to buy the surly wednesday. Or maybe the all city single speed, or a jamis sonik, or win an old RB1 from ebay, but my consciousness mind isn't allowing it anymore.
i'm not sure what's wrong.
can you guys help me?
Many bikes do you already own? How many of them do you actually use? All you really need is one for the hobbiest biking of your choice, and a beater to take around town. You might want one or four or twelve more, but thats not going to fill the void in your heart.
Use that money to make memories. Travel, build a family, get elective surgery to have those huge tits you always wanted, pay into a retirement fund.
Stop owning stuff and start doing something.
Just missed it.
Looking into replacing my fork with a suspension-corrected rigid. Trying to figure out how to measure my steertube. Am I gonna have to take the thing apart to measure it?
You mean the extra wide tires of fat bikes? It is mostly an industry excuse to market once again idiot white people with too much disposable income to get another bike. The number of serious bicycle enthusiasts is very small. At first fatbikes were just some hodge-podge kludge people from Alaska and elsewhere developed for their needs and locale, but eventually companies like Surly started offering ready made fat bikes.
It does have some real utility on terrain like sand and is much more suited to snow. But even in a lot of snowy conditions you will want to ride on already packed down snow instead of having to cut your own path.
My first day with a helmet and it already stopped something from fucking my up.
Has anyone here ever had a helmet break?
Yes, but honestly I have broken more helmets because I knocked them off tables/workbenches onto hard surfaces than I have by actually crashing into things (and the two times I have broken helmets while riding have been while mountain biking at night).
It's too big for you. For reference I have a 34 inseam and 57cm is about the biggest frame I'm happy on regardless of toptube length.
>trek's sizing off
Nope, you may have read about the confusion that comes from "compact" frame sizing, but in the 80's all Trek frames were standard diamond shapes, so standard size rules apply
Honestly, most of the time I use one of the ultra-cheap direct-from-China bags you can get on Ebay. They work fine, and if you don't need to carry more than a basic carry (tool, patch kit, spare tube, phone, keys, and maybe your walley). If you need more cargo capacity it may be worth investing in a bag that will have better sewing, but for the basics, the simplest of bags will do. I will add though: don't even think about a VO Baguette bag, the workmanship is great but the design tends to make the zippers open up spontaneously.
Taking the fork out of a frame (so you can actually measure the steerer) is one of the simplest mechanical operations possible (remove fr wheel, loosen the stem, headset, and front brake cable, then slide the fork out), if that's beyond you then you should not be contemplating replacing your fork without professional help.
As Niko says, the point of extra-wide tires is that they let you ride across surfaces like sand and snow - more surface area = more "float". Fatbikes are great if you want to ride across a frozen lake, on a crosscountry ski trail, over lots of mud, or on a beach - but yes, if those are not places you even want to go then there's not much advantage to a fat bike.
Sometimes I pick up bikes despite not needing to own anymore myself just because I enjoy working on them. On the positive side, a bike habit is cheaper and healthier than drugs or alcohol.
>Taking the fork out of a frame (so you can actually measure the steerer) is one of the simplest mechanical operations possible (remove fr wheel, loosen the stem, headset, and front brake cable, then slide the fork out), if that's beyond you then you should not be contemplating replacing your fork without professional help.
I'm just overly cautious. Also I intend to do it with quasi-professional help, there's a co-op nearby that will let you use space and tools for an hourly rate and people who know shit to guide you through repairs. I guess I'm only worried because I've never taken apart and part of the bike that was this significant.
Also my old roommate bought a bike on Amazon and assembled it and it was always wrought with bullshit problems. I don't want to fuck myself over from being able to get to the co-op.
i sold three this week, i still have five more working bikes, and few extra partials
maybe it's that the emptiness is gone and now i don't need to pine for bike to fill the void. but i still think a honda grom might complete my life. and i still appreciate bikes. like i really want the wednesday because it seems like the ultimate junkyard dog that can be set up in a variety of different ways. I even work at an LBS and can get it for 500 off the sticker price. But i don't ride enough. and if i did ride enough i'd be sinking to much time and energy into the bike maintaining it.
how do I hold all these feels?
i do exactly that too anon, but I can't find the inspiration anymore
If the protector is a plastic one you can just break it apart and pull it out of the wheel in pieces (if it's yellowed from UV exposure it will be brittle and break easily).
Then by all means, take it to the co-op and have them show you how to take to the fork out and measure the steerer.
>bought a bike on Amazon
this was probably part of the problem, the cheap bikes I've seen for sale on that site have been shit-tier - even assembled properly and maintained moderately well they would be likely to develop problems
>i do exactly that too anon, but I can't find the inspiration anymore
I feel you anon. Don't worry though, it's totally okay to take a break from interests from interests every now and then.
I have an even bigger collection (12, 8 are 'keepers') but haven't had the urge to do anything beyond selling flip bikes the past year or so, and I would be down to 7 personal bikes if it weren't for a friend trading me a near-complete bike for building him a set of wheels.
>states anti-fat bike sentiment nearly unanimously accepted by /n/ cyclists
>nobody botheres to reply or communicate with the idiot.
>says other dumb shit
>still, nobody cares
And here he is again, everybody...
No lack of ignorance at that.
Thanks for your replies, nick. But you're just not wanted here, apparently.
Also; yea. We get it. I'm a fat, white, angry, virgin, neakbeard, nerd.
Grips or tape?
Or is this handlebar style-dependent?
Also I have no clue how the previous owner/manufacturer got the grips on my current bike. I thought they were taped at first, but the dude just wrapped cloth around the grips because they're mushy.
I'm ignorant about the different styles of bars, I thought mine were bullhorns but after looking at pics I don't know what to call them. They look like flat mtb bars with "horns" on the end? Maybe the "horns" detach? I'm reel ignant mayne
You guys are gonna get sick of me
Also you're right
I need to find the brand/maker of this frame
Looks like the Easton logo, I'd be looking into that
Should I? The ones I see here for sale are all black though, no gay pattern. 5 bucks, do you think they're good for everyday commuting or whatever?
Where can i find a 6-speed rear derailleur for my old road bike? At the moment i have some cheap mtb rd on it cos cant find any 6-speeds meant for road bikes.
Also my brother is going to give me an old 90s rigid mtb. I've been dreaming of front suspension mtb and was thinking of turning this thing into front susp. Will this ruin the bike or will it work?
There's probably a bike shop in your area that has a giant pile of old derailers. Dig around it for a Suntour Cyclone or Cyclone GT, depending on what your largest cog is. If that store doesn't exist, there's always ebay.
there's no such thing as a 6 speed derailer, and a well cabled $15 2015 sora derailer will outpreform anything from that era. If it's friction, you can use anything.
The only thing worth paying for is getting a silver one.
Earth is fantastical holmes.
Ok, i exadurated slightly. It's $18.
I'm fairly confident that would work. 10 & especially 11 is probably a step too far and you might get rubbing if you cross chain badly, but shimano RDs are pretty damn forgiving. Use some google-fu and you can affirm this. Sellers will be very conservative about compatibility because they don't want any liability.
Another option, bit more expensive.
RDs for greater-numbered speed cassettes can be used on smaller speed cassettes, just screw down the limits a bit more. after that, the range and changing the gears is all in the shifter.
I know because my old-assed daily commuter has a six speed freewheel/shifter and came stock with a medium-cage RD. I switched to a freewheel with hill-climbing gears (still a six-speed) but the derailleur didn't reach around the big cog. My mechanic sold me a new-ish Shimano Deore long-cage salvaged from a 9-speed bike, assuring me it would work. he was right, no problems at all.
Are these shoes road or MTB? The site says they're compatible with SPD, but when I google the model it says "road" shoes everywhere, so that'd make them SPD-SL compatible.
So, which one is it? Also, does anyone have some experience with this brand?
I just bought a new chain and it keeps skipping when I pedal underpressure. It doesn't do it as much or at all when I shift into easier gears but at the default (10 speed) it skips? What could be causing this?
definite myth, regardless of hormonal effects (if they're noticeable at all), you can certainly lose weight by cycling (calories ingested < calories expended)
That PBK listing is missing some critical info. I googled those same shoes and found this picture of the sole - they'll work with either 2-bolt or 3-bolt style cleats. But they're definitely 'road' shoes because they have a flat bottom and aren't meant to be walked in.
Did you run the old chain until it was extremely worn? If you run a worn-out chain too long it starts to wear out the cogs on your cassette/freewheel (and your chainrings too) to the point that they won't mesh properly with a new chain. If that's the case, then the necessary solution is a new cassette/freewheel.
This is a javelin parma bicycle. It was donated to our bicycle coop that makes Franken bikes out of scrap parts. We are trying to sell it as a luxury item to buy tubes and patch kits for kids. What would a general range of value be for this bike? Everything looks stock. I can add more pics if necessary?
Wouldn't call it a "luxury item" by any measure, as far as I can tell it's an alu frame, Veloce (or Centaur maybe?) brifters and some cheapo wheels. You could definitely get a couple hundred bucks for it.
Where I live that bike would sell in the 2-300 range, but you might ask more if you live in a bigger city where bike prices are higher.
Yes, you need to be very careful about how you set your cleats up - you want the pedal spindle under the ball of your foot, want your feet more or less parallel to the bike, and don't want your knees to gyrate too far outwards or inwards with each stroke. Pay very close attention to any discomfort you experience, because if you keep riding on poorly adjusted pedals you can fuck up your knees and have issues that take months or years to recover from.
They certainly look like Victory parts. If you go to look at that bike, be sure to ask the owner if he has the 'aero' water bottle that matches that cage.
I'm wanting to get some different wheels for my road bike, found pic related on local Cl, American classic 420s. Questions:
Anyone have experience with these? Want opinions, they seem decent.
And, seller says they are 10 speed; will my 9 speed ultegra cassette work?
oh shit, i live in san luis too
where you at broski
you recognize my bike?
high leds, I started my bikefag phase a few months ago, with a fixie I bought. I had to move overseas, though, so I sold that one.
Now I'm in the market for a road bike under $1000, but I really have no clue what should I look for, or if there are any bike brands, or components brands, that I should pay attention to.
Can you help me please? Thanks lads.
i'd rather buy it in a brick and mortar shop, since i need to see the fit and all that jazz. i'm living in guatemala atm, but the bike selection is quite good, with most of the big brands being locally available.
it's not like in italy, but hey, third world.
i guess at this point it's better if i focus on specific groupsets, or other quality components.
At your price point the road bikes you'd be looking at would be Tiagra or Sora equipped. Which is not bad stuff.
If you can, find one with Tiagra and some decent wheels. It will have an aluminum frame but that's certainly fine, just make sure it fits you well.
Should i turn my MTB into road bike with slick tire and road bike style handbar for max speed commuting, it would be wise or just buy a cheap road bike? Im poor fag so 2nd option will take some time.
I've been running Campy Veloce ergos for about a year now (10 speed)
The last couple of months I've had a problem with the right hand upshift lever (the thumb button). When I'm on the 6th cog (counting from smaller to larger) and push the upshift lever, it doesn't fully return to its original position after the shift. It doesn't get stuck down, but rather comes back up and doesn't "snap" into the original position, but kind of hovers there, loose. If I as much as brush my thumb against it, it quickly keeps upshifting, until it reaches the smallest, or second smallest cog in half a second. To avoid this I now move the thumb button up and down with my thumb, instead of just pushing it and waiting for it to snap back by itself. It still goes loose sometimes too, and only downshifting (pulling the large lever behind the brake lever) returns the thumb button to its original "crispness", if I'm making any sense.
TL;DR: Veloce right thumb button doesn't spring back properly when upshifting from 6th to 5th cog and becomes loose and upshifts by itself, can I fix it?
Looking at doing a mini brake overhaul on my bike. Just spent the last hour adjusting them from when I removed my wheels to clean the bike. First off Im going to swap my cables and cable housing. I believe I found the correct set of cables please view the link below. My second question I need help is with the pads. I believe I have cheap Tektro M350 and I'm posting the link for the replacement pads I believe I need. See the links below. Thanks!
Read this post:
Depends on which variant of 600 you're comparing against really: Earlier versions of 600 and Victory will work equally well, but after 1986 the 600 line gradually got more effective rear derailers, indexed shifting, STI levers, and more powerful dual pivot brakes. Neither pre-'86 600 or Victory are particularly special groups except that they are generally very pretty parts to look at.
I would open up the shift mechanism and make sure there's no grit or dirt in there before anything else. But yes, the springs and bushings in Ergo levers do wear out over time - good news is they're totally serviceable and the process is well-documented online.
Yes and Yes, those parts are compatible
>haven't cycled due to illness
>feel good today
>go down my road, it's on a hill
>go to park eat a banana
>come back up and push really hard
>get back to my house and heart is going crazy and getting double beats then it calms down
Fuck only a few weeks and I'm unfit. I've been on my static exercise bike every day but the real bike is a lot harder.
How do professional cyclists get back into cycling after an injury or illness? Surely it's career over if you're out for a long time?
Since I'm selling and not buying I though it should go here instead of the /bbg/.
Trying to set a good value to get rid of this 2012 TCR 1
- Spinergy wheels
- 105 rear, random dura-ace crank
- The rest is Tiagra
Had it for $1200 CAD/$895 US, but I suspect my local populous would lowball me for 25% of that.
are there resources on the internet specificalyy regarding building a bike with/from a vintage frame? esp. regarding reputable brands and whatnot at certain pricepoints
basically just asking for someone/something to tell me what to buy/ look for lol
I'm in Cozumel today. Yesterday I was in Grand Cayman. Why does bike culture seem so fucking based here? People treat bikes like a more important object on the road. They treat them with respect.
Why is US bike culture so shit? Why do people literally try to kill cyclists?
No way- see Lance or Pantani. Both had almost a year off the bike before coming back greater than ever. You just have to want it.
Buy a COMPLETE c/v bike and it will teach you what's up. 'Building a bike' is not like building a computer were any fool can get good value with some easy guides.
You can't be spoonfed this stuff, but if you buy a COMPLETE good one, the bike will teach you.
Late 80s/ early-mid 90s is probably the best era to start with.
try spraying some wd40 or something in there first. You might be able to free some gunk that's messing with ur shit. If you do rebuild the ergos, work out exactly what you want to do first, buy the parts, start the job completely fresh, and finish it the day you start.
If you just begin taking it apart, and then come back to it later, it will be a nightmare.
Ergos are made to be rebuildable. Also when they start to wear, they will slip gears, unlike STIS which won't ever do this. I've never done it though. Give Branford bike a call, they're experts & should have parts/ advice for you. It's not strictly economical to repair power-shift ergos. If you're the poorfag type or you hate wrenching, then a new set might make more sense, but i think it's worth it to upskill yourself/ if you enjoy wrenching. One day you might have a nice set, and you'd already know what's up. Making your mistakes on cheaper stuff is always a good idea.
pic semi related, my 8 speed ergos waiting for a new home.
Is there any disadvantage to using a commuter/cyclocross/randonneur/light touring bike (i.e. Salsa Vaya, Surly Crosscheck, etc) for heavy touring aside from the fact that a true touring bike (i.e. Surly LHT) will be more stable and more comfortable? Would a non-touring bike (specifically the frame and fork) stand up fine to a heavy touring load?
Also, how doable would it be to drill a frame and fork (that are designed for mechanical discs) to accomodate traditional cantilevers?
Also, careful with the Dumonde stuff (and citrus degreaser in general) -- it smells good so if you have pets or kids, don't let them have access to it (or rags soaked in it), they might think it's a treat. And that would be very bad.
What should one wear while cycling to work?
I'd prefer to lessen or wick most of the sweat away as I hate my current situation or arriving and needing to pat/air dry before changing.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I came to road cycling after riding mountain bikes for years. What is the difference ride-wise between mountain clipless pedals and road. I have been using mountain pedals on my road bike so I don't have to buy a new pair of shoes. Is there really a significant difference between the pedals besides losing style points to road freds?
Lol, more stable & comfortable aren't enough reasons for you? I'm building up a steel CX/ road frame for long tours, but i want to try and keep base weight at 15kg max. If you go over 20kg base weight i think it's gonna become pretty unruly with water+ food as well. Why are you set on heavy touring? Got no hills to ride? That doesn't sound like much fun.
Converting discs - cantis is a total fools erand, don't do that. Lots of folk tour with discs. You wouldn't want to do it in Myanmar or something, but in most places you could make it work imo.
Using a Salsa Vaya/ Surly Crosscheck kind of thing is like a 'sport touring' bike of old, and if you already have good bike handling/ are used to a road bike, it will be fun (or at least this is what i'm hoping for my Gunnar CX). I really like the idea of leaving my gear somewhere and setting off on day trips, or doing unloaded rides with local cyclists i meet. Doing that on a true heavy touring bike wouldn't be much fun.
Road shoes are often lighter and the sole is stiffer, which provides better power transfer and less probability of getting a hot spot where your foot is. But I wouldn't worry about it unless you're racing or something.
I wear (censored because moot can't code for shit and it's apparently spam?, and either (what the fuck come on moot no wonder you had to sell your site I hope our new overlord fixes this)
This spam filter is garbage I am deleting a paragraph.
Here is another whole paragraph i had to delete. Today I wore (fuck your shit). More fucking bullshit that I deleted. Fuck.
You can get chinese garb^H^H^H^Hmerino sweaters for like $30 at a store that I probably shouldn't name because it will also get flagged as spam. Hell this post already is going to get flagged as spam. But it's one of those cheap stores that sells shitty clothes made by slave children in bangladesh.
Don't get me wrong I like my $100 merino stuff from a more expensive store that I also shouldn't name, but for getting all sweaty the other spam store will probably be fine
Yeah, it's pricey, but you don't need cycling specific merino. Any mid- high end outdoor retailer will sell merino baselayers. Just watch out for sales, and you'll get some good deals.
They are truly god tier garments. Synthetic base layers are marginally warmer, but they inevitably develop a smell, aren't good in hot weather, are heavier, don't feel nice against the skin & they don't look good. Merino is 100% worth it. 10/10 material, all props to sheep.
lol, thanks for the attempts. Fairly new to /n/ so I don't quite understand your jargon, but I am thankful for the thought. I'll be looking out for chinese knockoffs if they seem to be functionally equivalent.
Maybe if I wasn't retarded I would have tried my REI hiking base layer by now.
Thats nice to know, sadly it's just going into cold weather so I'll probably have to wait till spring for the out of season sales.
Are there any reputable bike luggage mounts which are typically used?
>Lol, more stable & comfortable aren't enough reasons for you?
I am planning to get a Vaya regardless, which I will use for commuting, randonneuring, light touring, etc. I just want to know if I can also use it for heavy touring or if I'll have to get a separate bike for that.
>Why are you set on heavy touring?
I will be doing mostly randonneuring and light touring and such, but I want a bike that can handle heavy touring in case I decide to do, say, a month long tour. I want to be sure that the frame and fork of a Vaya (or whatever bike I end up getting) will be able to stand up to the stress of a heavy load for a long time.
>Converting discs - cantis is a total fools erand, don't do that.
I'm not planning to swap discs for cantis, I just want the bike to be capable of running cantis. I'll still run discs, just have the canti mount points for emergencies.
Thanks for your input.
>Are there any reputable bike luggage mounts which are typically used?
Do research on what racks and panniers are recommended for touring. I know Velotransit panniers are quite good, not sure who makes the best racks.
Cycling jersey and cycling shorts. I put on my work shirt and cargo shorts over the top of my cycling clothes when I get to work, you may or may not want to do that depending on your job. Otherwise just change out of them. Aero Tech Designs makes great cycling shorts that are quite affordable. I use these ones (recently did a 305km/190mile ride with them and they were great) http://www.aerotechdesigns.com/mens-padded-pro-bike-short.html
For top you could either wear a cycling jersey, or just get a generic athletic t-shirt at Target or where ever.
racks & panniers aren't the only way. Sometimes they're pretty overkill.
Also 'the best' is totally overkill for commuting. Nitto/ Tubus racks as an upgrade from a backpack is going too far. Same thing for 100% waterproof panniers. I would recommend against 100% waterproof panniers unless you're going to ride often in heavy rain, because if moisture can't get in, it also can't get out, so any sweaty or wet clothing you ever put in there will never dry.
You wear a chamois all day under your clothing? That's Kimo AF
Heavy touring means taking way too much shit lol, you can have a light or ultralight month long tour. Under 10kg baseweight (gear, not food or water or bike) is light, over 20 is heavy, and craziness really, unless you have a heavy touring bike with very low gearing. Modern synthetics etc means shit weighs way less than in the old days.
It's not really about weither it can handle the stress or not (it can), but more that the bike will be unweildy with that much weight, especially if it's conventionally mounted with racks and panniers, and not a non-swaying bike packing setup (worth considering if you have a CX bike that can handle singletrack)
Maybe I am using the wrong terms then. Basically I just want to know if using a Vaya as a fully loaded touring bike for long tours would be reasonable.
Thanks for the help!
I haven't heard of a "non swaying" setup but
>handle the stress
answers my question, thanks!
Also one more question, how important (if at all) is it to have a lugged frame for long fully loaded tours? I heard that lugged is better because it reduces the risk of frame failure (which can happen at weld points).
in the 20th century, very.
In the 21st century, lugs are mostly used for aesthetics & mean additional cost only.
'non swaying' bikepacking setups are a relatively modern way of loading a bike which makes it more suited to riding on rough terrain than a rack/ panniers. It normally involves a very large seatbag & frame bags. Google bikepacking. Definately worth considering if you have 32mm + tires which can hack it off the beaten path, because there's lots of fun car free routes to explore.
I'm sticking to racks/ panniers though, so yeah, just an option.
>in the 20th century, very.
>In the 21st century, lugs are mostly used for aesthetics & mean additional cost only.
Meaning that 20th century welded frames were prone to failure but modern welded frames are not, even under heavy loads?
Looking into bikepacking stuff now
Thank you based anon
Thanks for all the help, have a qt3.14 cyclist girl~
Spray rust inhibitor into the tubes (frame saver is the bicycle specific product but i use lps-3/ other can be had more easily). That's all you really have to/ should do to prevent rust.
Surface rust is probably a non issue. If you want to deal with it, remove the rust with sand paper, and then hit up a hobbyist shop for some touchup paint or even nail polish is pretty good. Make sure you clean the frame with wax & grease remover before you paint. If you want to take it a step further, paint rust converter product over the bare metal that had rust on it (this will harden to a black layer), and then paint over that. It will look more ungainly though, and the color will show black underneath.
Yes automotive wax is great to protect the paint, but waxing over rust is pointless.
classic / vintage
another example at the old end of the spectrum
I have a late 70s Schwinn Traveler, some kind of Raleigh from the 60s/70s, and a generic cruiser Schwinn. Been biking for transportation 10+ years but only recently decided I should learn how to properly maintain them.
Thanks much for the gear recommendations.
Sounds like a wonderfully convenient solution. Is there any risk to that or reasoning you keep them on?
Just completely forget about it then. You're all good.
I want to get my first bike!
What do you guys think about this one? http://mobile.craigslist.org/bik/5162159351.html
He said he would take $150 for it.
I'm in the market for a new (and stock) 26er tourer. Only thing I've found to fit the bill is a Surly LHT with 26" whee─║s.
Is there any alternative to the LHT I should know about before I buy it? Thanks in advance, any help is appreciated.
To get rid of the rust: Citric acid. Works just as good as the other chemicals, is much cheaper, and non toxic. Put some citric acid on the rusted parts, let it sit a bit, scrub it, etc. Then when the rust is gone, coat the exposed metal with touchup paint or nail polish to prevent future rust.
Powdercoating is the best option if you want to go cheap. Keep in mind you'll have to take all the components off the bike yourself or pay extra for that to be done for you. Look up who powdercoats in your area and find their prices.
If I am looking at two bikes with the same Reach measurement, will they fit the same horizontally Even if they have different seatube/headtube angles?
I have a road bike that fits me perfectly and I want to buy a CX bike that fits the same horizontally.
hello there, i just bought a pump and i think im a retard.
pic related is the pump. fits schrader and presta(french) valves. my bike has schrader valves.
and heres the glorious question: its only pumping air through the presta orifice.. how do i make the pump work with the schrader valves??? i tried unscrewing the top part but couldnt figoure out anything to do.. i have been looking at the pump for like 20 minutes and no clue.. help meeeeeee, thanks
If you want to do heavy touring, LHT is your best option (26" or 700c; rim or disc; both depending on circumstances). For light touring, you could consider Salsa Vaya (my favorite), Surly Crosscheck or Straggler, or maybe even the All-City Space Horse (though the Space Horse would be more suited for randonneuring, probably). If you are going to be on rough terrain, then consider the Salsa Fargo.
For touring in an undeveloped country 26" is definitely best, and for short people it can be ideal. It can also be beneficial for heavy loaded touring. If you are not short, and are touring in a developed country, 700c would be fine, likely even ideal, especially for light touring.
Not him, but
>easier to find replacement parts in remote places and undeveloped countries
>better handling when riding with a heavy load
>more natural size for short people
>small wheels are stronger than big wheels, therefore better for a heavy load
That said, 26" is not always the best option for touring. But it often is.
>Rigid MTB with slicks
Meme bikes are good for short rides, commuting, etc. Not for touring. And 26" vs 700c for touring is about the wheels, not the tires. Take your shit out of here. You should clearly be asking questions in /bqg/, not answering them.
Dumb question from a newb who just got an 11-speed roadbike. Are there certain gears that just shouldn't be used if they're right on the threshold between the two front rings.
Like, for example being in a very low gear on the large ring versus in a higher gear on the smaller ring? There's that overlap, and sometimes it feels like the chain is grinding.
Not sure if this is just me needing to GIT GUD at shifting or if I need to get some adjustments done.
I just got a fixed gear and my chainline is slightly off so the chain makes noise no matter the tension or angle of rear wheel, do I need to take it into the shop or is there an easy way to offset the rear cog?
You should start by replacing the hub with a freehub, replacing the rear cog with a cassette, replacing the crankset with a 2x or 3x, adding derailleurs, adding shifters, and replacing the chain with a narrower chain. That should resolve your problem. If that doesn't work, post here again and we can give you more advice.
Thanks, I broke out the calipers and found that my rear "frame sapcing" is 120mm, my front chainline is about 45mm from the center, and my rear cog is about 20cm from the edge of where i measured the "frame spacing" so my chainline is about 5mm too close to the center
Should I just go to the hardware store and get some washers or what?
Is it possible or likely that running a tyre at lower pressure will wear it out faster?
I have just over 2000 km on the bike and the bike mechanic noted it seems unusually squared off/worn.
For reference I run the 23 mm tyre at 100 PSI with roughly 75 kg of total load.
There is a difference between carrying your fat ass 2 blocks and carrying a heavy load for thousands of kilometers. 26" wheels are stronger and therefore less likely to break than 700c wheels. Now you fuck off. Not even the anon you replied to, btw.
Do you guys wear helmets? If so could you please post them?
I'm planning on buying a road bike, most the time I think I'll go helmetless but there are occasions where I would prefer one.
Is it a cycle-fashion faux pas to wear a rounded, skate style helmet on a road bike? Specifically I'm considering a "Nutcase" brand helmet. I could just buy a normal road helmet but to me they create an awkward, top-heavy look.
The guy at the bike shop told me that the skater/mountain bike style helmets are made for multiple softer impacts while road bike helmets are made to break on impact to absorb the shock.
Personally I think thats kinda baloney and that road bike helmets dont provide as much protection, so I got something kinda inbetween that wasnt all aero and vented because I care about my brain.
Also MIPS is unproven but why not
I'm kind of wondering the same, I'm looking at cyclocross bikes and that style of helmet too, maybe Bell or Fox.
I have a feeling most people think it's retarded, but I'll do it anyway. Seems to me like these helmets provide better protection, especially on the back of the head and keep you warmer in winter.
Also for some reason I find road style helmets pretty disgusting with their 99 air vents and shit.
I got pic related, very comfy and ventilated and looks great.
Was pretty cheap when I got it too.
Nutcase are generic chink helmets with a fancy paintjob. Just FYI.
Disregard looks and buy a glorious made in Germany Casco helmet. (or something similar tier)
Funny enough Nutcase's slogan is "I love my brain" or something.
Well anonfag, do you love your brain? Buy protective equipment not fashion accessories.
>I don't care about aesthetics like these freds who like to wear stuff that is aesthetically displeasing to me, so I'm gonna get a skater helmet even though it won't offer the same protection just to prove that I am totally not obsessed with appearance over function
They make all kinds of styles other than "professional road racer aero helmet"
If you honestly care about looks over safety, just skip the helmet
I posted this same helmet in another thresd.
If you care about looks then get this one.
A BMX lid actually offers more protection, as does a full face DH helmet.
But yes, it tends to be people that hate cycling kit in general that are the most vain. They can not possibly get it into their heads that people wear these things for reasons other than appearance, while at the same time focusing on how aesthetically unappealing they are, because they are more obsessed with looks than anyone else.
I don't wear a BMX helmet because they're heavy and poorly ventilated. They're comparatively extremely uncomfortable to wear than a cheap $30 road helmet or basic MTB helmet with the visor removed.
Why do girls look so cute wearing a BMX helmet?
Also they're an entirely different design than standard bicycle helmets, correct?
>i.e. padding under a hard shell rather than compressed styrofoam
They're designed to take multiple impacts as opposed to traditional road helmets which are supposed to be replaced after only one. Whether or not BMX helmets are as effective in a high-speed impact I'm not sure.
There's a hard shell on top of the styrofoam, whereas a MTB/Road helmet has a much thinner plastic shell. This thicker harder plastic shell does almost nothing for impact protection, it helps protect against concentrated forces that would penetrate the shell. It also protects the foam from being crushed due to mishandling.
That's only soft liner helmets which are sold as skating helmets. BMX helmets have to conform to bicycle helmet standards. And soft liner helmets really only prevent you from getting superficial wounds on the head.
My budget is 500-1000 American Freedom Coupons. I want to buy a new bike for offroad and street cycling. Can anyone point me in the right direction? The cheaper the better, but I don't mind considering more expensive bikes if I see enough reason to buy one.
/n/ i dun goof'd
I bought a new tube and accidentally ordered a schrader valve
Going to return for a presta tube during the week
I was debating drilling the rim to fit the schrader valve, asked around and it seems to be 50/50 between "its no problem" and "you will weaken the rim etc etc"
Many anons drill their rims?
Just going to assume you're not a troll.
A tube costs four dollars. Why would you take a drill to 100 dollar item to accomodate four dollars worth of consumable?
Just go to a sporting goods store and buy a presta tube goddamnit, that would take less effort than fucking up your wheel.
Not really unless you feel compelled to.
If you buy aero upgrades, yes, get an aero-ish helmet because there are big savings to be had there. If you buy gram upgrades, the cost per gram on a helmet may be very competitive. If your head is particularly hot you may want to get something with more vents.
i kind of get wat ur saying - 'the stick breaks in the wind, the leaf bends' but bmx wheels are strong as fuck & bmx riders break wheels cos they abuse the shit out of them. Take your road bike to a skate park and see how long it lasts lol.
How bad are these mongoose dirt jumper bikes?
Also why the fuck are dirt jumpers so expensive??
It's just an over sized BMX bike god damnit!!!!
What is the best way to improve? I'm been participating in local crits and it's very apparent that I'm not on the level of these guys and am looking to train effectively.
My weekly average right now is somewhere in the range of 150-200km/week and I'm also joining a group for interval training.
> getting back into riding
> mainly for commuting, riding weekends as I gradually fix up bike to rely on for work travel
> sweating, to be expected
> sweat in my eyes
> sweat on my glasses
> sweat sweat, tons of fucking sweat
> removing glasses to wipe eyes while riding bike over and over
This isn't just a fatty thing, I've always sweat a ton. Wat do? I''m mainly annoyed by this getting in the way, getting my glasses dirty/distracting me from the road.
prescription anti antiperspirants on ur face
how does the trigger work? push for harder gear, pull for easier? or like the sram road doubletap, push for harder, double for easier? also, what is that slightly-triangle-shaped thing on the left?
could somebody point me in the direction of some really narrow drop bars?
ive got a set of pursuit/bullhorn style bars on my commuter that are only 30 cm wide and i love them, but i cant seem to find any drop bars that are as narrow (im building up a road bike atm.
I know nitto makes a set of extra narrow bars that are also ony 30 cm but those arent drop bars. I was just wondering if they made them anywhere or not, since my searches are coming up empty
38 is the narrowest common width for drop bars, though 36 exist as well (google, there aren't many and you may have to search around a fair bit). If you want to go even narrower you'd likely need to modify an existing pair of bars.
After two years of almost daily use, my Knog blinder won't hold a charge anymore. Does anyone know if it is possible to change the battery or do I just throw out my otherwise fine light? The Knog website just says to take the light back to the store for warranty.
good taillights are so dirt cheap and there are much more effective ones than knog, why not just get a new one? for a product that gave 2 years of service already, considering all the wasted time with shipping and so on, I'd rather just spend $30 than deal with all that nonsense.
but that's just my opinion.
I actually got another light because I need illumination now.
It just seems like a shame to toss a light that seems like if you could just change the battery it might last another two years. I really like that I didn't need a cord to charge it and they are easy to take on and off the bike every time I park it and they are bright. I have had two that have each lasted about two years including two salty, wet New England winters.
Not that guy, but yes, a cap under your helmet performs the function of a sweat band. But if it's really hot where you live, you're probably better off getting a simple sweatband instead of a full cap that will only trap more heat.
>But if it's really hot where you live, you're probably better off getting a simple sweatband instead of a full cap that will only trap more heat.
Really, really fucking hot, and the sun is a bitch, so the cap visor may be useful. I haven't purchased a helmet yet however, so I'll probably be generating even more heat once I do.
I'm finding thicker-looking headbands, but
Hello, can anyone tell me what kind of bike this is?
Just bought my first "real"(?) road bike, a felt z95 2015.
Anything that i should be prepared for? Am coming from a hybrid commuter bike.
This'll be my first use of STI shifters, i know that'll be a learning curve
a bastardized steel light weight
christ, not this dumbass discussion again.
bikepacking is gay trendy shit designed for doing overnight single track trips, supported touring, or riding through civilized parts of the world where you can use your credit card regularly.
touring bikes are made for doing 100miles in a day, unsupported, with all your gear, so you can be a bike hobo.
if you want the option of disks and cantis, your only commericially available option is the surly troll or the ogre.
do it faggot, all these other guys are nerds.
park tools sells a reaming tool for exactly that.
there's literally no downside. if you go back to presta, make sure you get the kind with the threaded stem and locknut, and if you don't get those, put a little electrical tape around the base of the stem to prevent rattling.
if your rim is wide, then it should be fine to open the valve hole a little more.
Yes, this has been discussed many times, pretty much everyone on /n/ wears a helmet most or all of the time because we aren't fucking morons and we value our lives.
Road helmets are more comfortable and better ventilated/cooler. Get a road helmet.
What is the distinction you're actually looking for? Diverge seems to have a lower bottom bracket than their Crux among other thing.
Does the Canondale Slate catch your interest? The only other thing that comes to mind is the the Avanti Corsa ER which is probably not available in your area and is limited to 30mm tyres.
It's a strange request really.
Dunno I just want a road bike that'll cope with going through bridleways fine, and bridleways are not just flat mud, they're pitted from horses hooves so I doubt a regular road bike would like it much.
Too expensive but definitely what I mean, maybe gravel bike is the term for it? I keep seeing adventure road bike and sorts of other genres getting thrown around and don't really know what they mean tbh.
> A road bike that can go off road but is more roady than a cx bike
If ur in murrica, get a lemond or something. If it fits 28s & it's steel then you can have good times off road.
I got my current bike used, with two used tires (Michelin Meganum and Maxxis Re-Fuse, 700x23). I currently have no complaints about them for my uses (commuting over dry, shitty pavement including cracks and crushed glass).
The tires have been worn smooth (though they look like they were pretty close to smooth to begin with) and they have small cracks, but other than that they seem to run fine.
1. Would these tires be suitable for wet pavement too? I'm talking rain and possibly mild hail, but no snow or anything like that.
2. Other than waiting for them to fail catastrophically, how can I tell when it's time to replace the tires?
3. What are some good tires for my use case?
There are various models with standard compact chainsets. Specialised Crux Elite Evo for example, although that's a moderately high end spec.
>>If they're smooth then no of course they're not good for wet roads.
This is patently false.
. What are some good tires for my use case?
If your surfaces are shit according to http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews the Michelin Pro 4 Service Course has pretty good puncture resistance for OK rolling resistance, as do the GP4seasons.
Gatorskins have good puncture resistance but infamously shit wet grip so probably avoid those.
Tyre tread on cars is to avoid hydroplaning, something bicycles don't do (in standard operating conditions).
People use tread or studs for non-pavement use such as dirt, mud or gravel.
And put that nose away.
Thanks for the link, just what I was looking for.
The reviews seem to be geared at x25 tires. Assuming I can handle the bone rattling with my current x23 tires, what are the advantages of going wider?
Less bone rattling, less rolling resistance. It might be slightly less aero but the difference is minor enough even the pros don't mind.
I've been using 23s and wouldn't ever choose to use them again personally.
What is this stuff that keeps appearing on my cassette? I clean it regularly, degreasing etc but this orange stuff keeps appearing. It rubs off but I'm not sure what it is.
I cleaned it yesterday and there was none of this so it appeared overnight. The bike was slightly wet after washing, it's not rust or something is it?
Could it be water reacting with the degreaser?
Reading the blurb it sounds like you're fine.
I was just wondering if either that or your degreaser is leaving an orange residue.
You could try putting them on something else to dry and see what is left over.
The degreaser is WD40 Bike Degreaser. Maybe I should spray them both on some metal and leave it.
I reckon it's probably the lubricant though, I'll have to get some proper chain lube.
Oh well, you learn from you mistakes
That's rust, anon. It's not a big deal and will rub off but you'll want to let your bike dry properly to avoid this. The degreaser is extremely harsh as well, go easy on that stuff and rinse it off thoroughly.
Actually hang on, rust overnight? How do I let my bike dry properly?
>bike gets muddy day before ride
>leave it for a bit
>leave it to dry outside for a few hours
>apply the lubeI think is chain lube but isn't
>bring bike in, still bit wet so sponge it with a towel a bit
What's caused the rust exactly?
>What's caused the rust exactly?
the O in H2O is more concentrated than the O in the earth's atmosphere.
it's so minimal, just going on a ride where you shift through all the gears will probably rub it off.
this is not the issue you're making it out to be.
Well you shouldn't really work on strength until you have endurance and form pretty well down, or you'll just injure yourself.
However, generally, spinning the pedals at a high cadence will make you lean, and mashing the pedals with huge power will make you big. Compare Chris Froome (preeminent climber in the peleton) with Andre Griepel (pre eminent sprinter in the peleton), or track cyclists where the strength vs speed body type disparity is more apparent.
Also if you want to be big hit the protein big time after riding.
Less durable, bit quicker/ more supple
Supple as fuck (nice feels), 10/10 grip, more fragile/ slower than above 2
Racey baller classic option
I'm finally getting roof bars for my car, and I need to decide on a roof rack style.
Fork mount vs upright mount? I can see the pros and cons of both but I don't know which is easier to live with.
I'll be using them 2-3x per week. I'm 6'3" and this is going on a Mazda 3 so height isn't an issue.
>>Less durable, bit quicker/ more supple
The pro 4 service course has 3 or so watts more rolling resistance at 100 PSI than the GP4k. Also apparently more puncture resistance. Don't know about actual mileage wear though.
In any case, the Schwalbe One is a good alternative to the contis, very similar figures for RR and puncture resistance and it's a bit heavier but cheaper.
>owning a vile murderbox
>putting your bike on your murderbox so you can murderbox to the nearest park and ride down hills
why can't I hold all this why
Ok whatever, just speaking from experience. No way does it have more puncture protection though.
I really really like both. Haven't tried Schwalbe.
gp 4000s II is unquestionably the best all round road tire, and op dun gud.
Get a flat bar and cut down to desired width and add drop bar ends. Not as effective with the hand positions and might require some finangling, but you could earn cludge cred in the process. Try it out!
I ride my bike a lot, especially early mornings/late nights to work. On my good bike, I have some LED headlight I bought off of Amazon, but it's more of a "too be seen" kinda light, and not necessarily a "to see" light.
Does anyone have a recommendation for a good headlight, with a decent amount of lumens? I don't want to end up with Chinese garbage, and have been doing some research, but it would be nice to hear some feedback from people who I don't have to question if they are marketers (because marketers obviously aren't on /n/, just /v/)
what makes a bike faster besides weight and tires?
yes, in open road situation wind is a big factor so aerodynamics.
but for instance.. going up a hill.. in an asphalt road...
you got 2 mtb's with the same tires (at the same psi), besides weight, can one kind of component make one faster than the other? like i dunno,better transmission?
thanks, i im a bike noob
which lock do i buy ? i gathered some good ones. krypto expensive and heavy but awesome and literally costs half of the cost of my bike.
pics not mine but same model bike ... again
also pitlock or sunlite skewers for front wheel?
one of my break pads touches the rim when i push down and doesnt come back up fully. also i pushed down the break quick release down fully and that same break pad touches the rim. i have dia comp g caliper breaks. wheels look straight
the spring that pulls out both sides of the caliper may be bent or off-center. Try to see if it's off-center first. If it is perfectly center already, you can usually bend it so that the dragging side is pulled farther from the rim. Just be careful, you don't want to/need to bend it too much at all
Means that either your core is weak or you're pushing too high a gear. Gear down when you come to a stop light or stand when you're about to start moving again. As far as a weak core goes, do planks.