I am an amateur who got into this hobby a year ago but rarely had the time and chance to practice it. If it helps then I am using a Canon EOS 6D with Canon 135 2.0 prime lens, Tamron 24-70 2.8 and a Canon ES Speedlite with wireless converters(?). I have other lenses but I have only been using those two so they don't count.
I recently bought a studio set and the details are as follows:
3 x 300W Strobe light (with 150W modeling lamp) 3 x Standard Reflector 3 x Light Stand (Max: 200cm Height) 2 x Soft box (70 x 100cm) 1 x Wireless... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>2905304 well all of this shit would be pointless to buy if you were a sports photographer. you failed to mention what kind of photos you take and what kind of photos you plan on taking with this kind of setup.
I mostly take cosplay, portraits and landscapes/street photography. I read and heard about strobes in passing and it got me interested. I saw this set on Ebay for cheap and bought it as a birthday gift for myself. I have no experience with other sources of light beyond my Speedlite, reflectors and natural sunlight so this is a first for me.
With this set I am planning to practice on my pet, friends and objects.
Is... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Hello, new to /p/ and just photography in general. I've been thinking about buying a camera for a while, but I'm so sure on which one to get. I don't want to do anything crazy or anything, just some casual photos, something like pic related since I really like night shots. Anyway, what would you guys suggest? MY budget right now is about $100.
What is the most widely produced lens mount? Tried researching and I've been having a hard time seeing some solid numbers. I see people shitpost about it, and often saying that m42, pentax k, canon ef, or minolta A were the most widely produced mounts. Does anybody have any links or info on actual figures?
In the coming decades space will become more and more commercialized. Moon and Martian colonies are being talked about being a reality in a decade or two, tourism will probably be a thing before that, and extra-terrestrial mining will be not far behind.
I want to be on the front lines of all this as a photographer. How can I prepare myself and my photography now so that I will be attractive to these new space companies and have access to this new frontier?
The documenting of early travels to mars and the moon will most likely be a minor task assigned to essential crew members (as it is today on the ISS). Being a pioneer photographer in this area would probably require you to already have full space training and a good understanding of astrophysics and engineering. Being a proficient photographer would be a secondary skill in such a situation.
The men who discovered the americas didn't stop to paint pictures. Their survival was a much more prominent consideration. It will remain this way certainly throughout your lifetime.
Analog is a more digital process than "digital" is.
As for the high level differences of mere possibility, you're pretty much correct. With enough technical knowledge and a large enough budget, you can do most everything that you can do on film you can do in digital, right down to manipulating the smallest possible unit of visual information.
Post processing programs like photoshop just make a lot of this shit far more accessible because a lot of the more technical stuff... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>2904787 not sure what you're asking, but almost all the tools in photoshop are based on darkroom techniques. the difference is that they are instantly visible, controlling it is much easier, and that you can undo any mistakes and you won't have wasted supplies
there are probably some things in photoshop that are impossible to do in darkroom, but I don't know what they would be because I never edit my photos outside of a the basic tools.
I've been trying to work on my composition recently, on how to frame my subjects, and I want to know what you think I need to work on, so I'll post some of my things (feel free to do the same, let's share opinions)
If you bought a new camera, nikon comes with a software called viewnx 2, usually in a cd. Don't know about canon, but should be the same.
That kind of software will let you do basic stuff with raw files such as exposure compensarion, contrast, brightness, sharpness, white balance, picture control and resizing. Their jpeg exports are quite amazing too. Hasselblad offers a free software like those that is quite good too.
For more advanced options you should either pay for lightroom (expensive depending on your situation) or if get linux and download darktable 2.0 for free. Both are amazing tools with advanced options like noise reduction, retouching tools, lens compensation, watermarks, etc...
I stick to viewnx2 because I dont have the money for lightroom, but it's basically the best software out there, followed by darktable. Such a pity it's not available for windows...
>>2904138 Nothing looks in focus here >>2904141 Similar problem here, also the top and bottom portions are a bit distracting (see the lights in the top right). >>2904145 Nice color, would have liked it more if the top wasn't cut off but I like the composition, horizontal is slightly off
I get my living by taking photos. Or part of it at least. Now I have been printing in one shop that prices it's products at a decent level but now I am comparing the latest prints and they are quite far from my calibrated version on screen! So I'm thinking that I could spend about 1000 euromonies on a printer and then get prints that I can control the looks on, and the quality would be good enough so I don't need to worry about that.
Brand is irrelevant at this point, there are several good options.
Now my problem is going to be that I need to identify photos somehow. When printing in a shop I get the filename (unfortunately not the whole filename!) on the backside of the image. If I print them myself I believe I can get it under the image and then cut it off but then I need to have it uncut until packing for delivery. So does anyone know of a proper photo printer that can print something on the backside also?
Have you thought of just going to other guys or telling them about the issue and that either they fix it or you won't come again?
1000€ plus the expenses in paper and ink seems like a pretty big investment, make numbers first because those things have a limited live, just like any other machine, and depending on how much you earn with those prints maybe you won't even pay for it before it breaks.
>>2903853 This is my fourth lab I'm trying. There always seems to be something, if it's not the image quality it's the lack of interest in trying to fix shit. I have had seriously cold images (not good, they are underwater photos and are cold already), problems with contrast and so on. Skin tones needs to be good, as always, and this seems to be a problem for labs. Funny thing was, in one they had it off when we compared their print with their screen. Talk about pride in their work!
But yeah, I'm not sure if it will be an economical gain, I'm prepared to pay a little to ease my life a bit. It seems like I will have approx 500 customers this year, if it goes on like this, I'm looking for about a thousand which should yield about one half of my needed income and keep it at that.
Now this is frustrating as it seems like I have to find another lab. And no, the one I use will run my images in a standard setup, he uses ye olde school chemistry, not a printer, so I'm maybe not that keen on talking about this with the lab, again...
But so far it seems like there are no printers that also print on the backside, except for the BIG ones and that is way overkill for my needs, at the moment with 500 customers I expect to print maybe 600-650 15x20 images, in centimetres.
I am getting a DSLR on Tuesday, and will be flying to Japan for 4 months on Saturday. How can I practice to be able to take better pictures and use the camera more adeptly? I don't have a lot of time, but I've done a good bit of reading up on cameras so I'm not flying blind.
Honestly, just playing around with manual settings is a good idea. But just putting it on Auto and focusing manually is a good start as well. Everyone learns at a different pase though so it just kinda depends on your knowledge of photography already,
Seconded. I love these, and have half a dozen different models of Jap rangefinder of this type and age, including a Canonet and two Minoltas (a 7s and a 9). The age of them will require you being VERY lucky to find even one that is partially/mostly working without a full CLA, and a full CLA will cost almost as much as a used Bessa. Buying six Canonets to find the one working one in the group will cost far more. The electronics are just are not that reliable anymore either, and most dont have full manual... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>2903664 That canon is often ridiculously overpriced. Get a Konica Auto S3 or S2. Both great rangefinders with excellent lenses you can still get for cheap if you look around. The S2 is a bit bigger but has an incredibly sharp lens to compensate (just look up old reviews).
Or just get a Bessa like previous anons suggested if you want interchangeable lenses.
>>2903588 >wireless connection to camera, most cameras dont have that. option 1. camranger option 2. diy router hack imitation camranger option 3. trade for android tablet and shoot tethered via camera's mini USB out to micro USB on tablet option 4. store your portfolio on iPad to show off to clients
>>2903145 This place is really weird, welcome aboard.
>I left the camera upstairs and im lazy as f*ck to get it Well, laziness doesn't go well with anything creative. Facebook compress photos to rape level
>That's my first picture taken >What you guys think? You're showing a sign of good composition, there's a balance in the picture. The focusing on the piano keys give an interesting short field of view - which tell you did this right. BUT there's not much in focus, the power lines leads to the out of focus area. The logo + J.PFN... is readable but is too far to the left to be of interest.
It's an ok start, and this camera does look capable in low-light. Ask your roommate for advices. Don't let him fool you again for the payment. Take many pictures ,be curious and try things.
Short answer: no. Medium answer: Using some hair dye you get something that couples a single dye layer of the three or something. No full colour. Long answer: You can mix up any chemical mixture if you have the ingredients. C41 dye couplers just happen to be difficult to obtain and very expensive for an average consumer. If you work in an appropriate industry or know someone who does or want to be prepper-tier self-sustainable you can buy and mix your own colour dev. Prohibitively expensive and difficult if weighing stuff or doing basic math scares you.
>>2903212 The active ingredient in fixer is usually sodium thiosulphate (aka hypo) or ammonium thiosulphate. If you want a nigger rigged recipe, ammonium thiosulphate is an ingredient of some fertilizers, although I'm not sure about the keeping properties of film fixed in a fertilizer.
>>2903010 >Need advice photograph your espresso when the cup is full, BEFORE you've drank it and slobbered all over the cup like a fucking disgusting pig. Photographs of coffee and espresso are the most cliche meme out there, I don't know how in the hell you fucked that up.
I'm a bit into older, manual lenses. Since I have an entry level Nikon, M42 lenses are out of question (since the lack of infinity focus). I've found these two recently (factory f-mount lenses), but I don't know these lenses at all, and I could not really find enough on the net. (Right now THIS focal length would be nice to me, but Nikon lenses are just sooo expensive.) What is your opinion about these two lenses, /p/? Thanks. (Pictures are of the lenses.) Hoya 24mm f/2.8 Zykkor 28mm f/2.8
I'm planning on buying either a 35mm or 50mm lens that's under $500 AUD for my D3100. I own the 18-55 kit lens and the 55-200. They're both rather shitty, but the kit lens pales in comparison to my 55-200. So I thought I'd get something that's significantly better closer up and in low light like the 35 or 50. If I'm wanting to do portraits and close-ups, which one would be better? Should I just save up for something more superior or what? Or would that be a waste of money?
Hello /p/ im the lowest level off noob to pictures and videos Im looking for a cheap DSLR possibly or bridge camera to record video in 720p i want to start filmimg bmx videos something that will do better than my samsung s4 :D thanks
All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.
This is a 4chan archive - all of the content originated from them. If you need IP information for a Poster - you need to contact them. This website shows only archived content.
If a post contains personal/copyrighted/illegal content you can contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org with that post and thread number and it will be removed as soon as possible.