Now that ``small size'' is no longer the sole domain of small sensors. APS-C and FF sensor cameras can now be as compact as cameras with compact sensors. ~This kills the MFT~
Besides, there's an ergonomic limit to how small a camera should be. We needn't resort to camera the size of a tiny Minox camera for small sensors to stay relevant.
I think Pentax had an idea in the right direction, but horrible execution. If you can't compete on size, compete on unique styling. So they made the MX-1 compact. Which unfortunately looks like a half-ass... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>2887889 >APS-C and FF sensor cameras can now be as compact as cameras with compact sensors. Gearfags only looking at body size again, I see. It's all about system size. Body size isn't even a consideration until you look at the big magalloy chassis DSLRs.
>>2887999 So an autofocusing Leica. Leica BTFO when?
A few years ago, I found someone's Leica IIIF setup at my local antique/estate sale shop. I assume the guy died. He was a pilot, as I found some photos of him and his lady from the war near the camera, and a slip stating that he bought the set while based in Japan, presumably. I wound up with an old IIIF body (with a bad curtain), a few lenses that were either bad (the Summacron 50 is well scrached up) or long telephoto lenses that seem awkward on such a small rangefinder. It even came with a large attachment that allows one to look through the lens, though it was dusty and dim. Anyways, the only thing that seemed usable was the Leitz Summaron 35mm 3.5.
I wound up buying a Bessa-R to be able to shoot with it reliably. When I started using it, I noticed right away that it was a real mixed bag. Some of the time I would get a decently clear shot, but other times I had this tremendous haze that cut the contrast so badly that things almost seemed mis-focused. I put the lens down after that for a few years.
In the past year, I have taken an interest in using it again, as I like the portability of RF and way of shooting it entails. I began looking into getting it cleaned...but something has kept me from going through with it... I almost feel like if I have it cleaned, it will lose some of its essence. I recently found a few threads that mention this myth of the "Leica glow", which has gotten me interested in the subject. The strange thing is that this "glow", for me and many others, seems to happen only by chance. I do realize that it gets more distinct the wider open the aperture is, and the longer the shutter speed....but sometimes that doesn't seem to matter at all..
I guess I'm starting this thread to see what anyone else thinks about this subject of the "glow", and if anyone, from looking at the photo's I am going to post, thinks this lens is fucked or not. Feel free to post any "glow" photos of your own.
It's a faggy ephemeral thing that people assign to leica to try to assure other people that they did the right thing by spending so much on camera and lens. Leica is luxury brand with luxury pricing. It doesn't do anything magical and people who tell you otherwise have either drank the kool aid or don't know what they are talking about.
>>2887276 Did you wait a long time to develop this? Has this roll ever been in a wet area? Is this roll expired? Was this roll inside the air tight capsule or was it laying around? It's most likely fungus or bacteria I once had something similar occur, but instead of a web texture, it was a whispy long tailed bacteria thing Here's a blank shot from that roll
im making progress on a good free demosaic (AHD) for fuji xtrans
Here is an initial try at the interpolation step. Each of these little subimages are results of interpolating using only sensor data from a certain direction. This is only the first part of AHD, next comes a step where at each pixel, the best one is chosen from one of these five candidate images. You notice on the NE/SW SE/NW images, different parts of the caution circle are smooth. There is a way to quantify this smoothness, and that's how you decide which image to choose each pixel from. I still have... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I've never used filters with B&W before and am wanting to give it a go. I have a Hoya Y[K2] Yellow filter and I'm shooting HP5 at 1600. What should I expect this to do to my image and am I able to use it for only a few shots or do I have to use it for the entire roll? Thanks for your help.
Pretty much any photo with blue sky in it will probably look better, it cuts down atmospheric haze, will probably make skin look a little bit smoother. Light yellow is pretty general purpose, I leave it on basically all the time unless I want to use some other color for a special effect. I only shoot black and white totally unfiltered if I really want to gain an extra stop, which may be a concern for you if you're having to push to 1600.
>>2886150 OP here. I'm actually considering using it not because of the effects it gives. I was shooting last night and needed 1600 but today it's just that tiny bit too bright out so the stop of light it looses will be about just right.
Best camera for video(short films, sports and action stuff) on a 1500 dollar budget? I am currently thinking of the 6D. Also sorry for the annoying gear thread but I want to get some opinions before I spend a shit ton of money.
>>2885868 I only recommend 6D for stills. Watch youtube videos about it, it gets ugly patterns on horizontal lines that make it worth $300 to me for video. For taking single photographs, rather than video, 6D is a good value.
Apart from Photojournalism and being a Paparazzo are there any good things you can go out and shoot and make money off of it?
I do not mean like weddings or interiors etc I mean specifically things you do not need to schedule prior that you can just go to and shoot and then profit from afterwards?
I have thought about shooting portraits on the street (though this does not seem incredible profitable) as well as things like open events/ competitions where you could shoot and potentially sell images to competitors etc.
I would love to go full Nightcrawler mode but I am in Australia and as far as I am aware our news publications are not really interested in this shit (nor does it happen enough in a condensed area to be worthwhile).
In times of need I've made posts on Facebook/forums and sold landscape prints. It's not something I keep up with, but rather once every year or two...so it's not exactly sustainable long term or anything.
Photographs of random people probably wouldn't sell too well unless their identity is pretty obscured.
Just noticed something in one of my photos. See the light streaks coming from the lights at the top right? Also the thing that looks like a light leak in the bottom centre, which is actually coming from a sprocket hole. Is it the fabled bromide drag? This is the first frame of the roll, the rest of the film seems to be fine. Delta 3200 in Microphen
Hi guys there's an event on my city where there's a lot of boat coming from different country and lots of tourism aswell. I've tried to take some shot but i really need some C/C. Those shots are from today and i already feel like i do not get the benefit of this event because of my lack of skill. As there's only few days before it end up i would like to get any crit possible, thanks !
Does anybody edit their photos on a tablet? I'm thinking about replacing my laptop with a Pixel C or iPad but Lightroom is still the only thing I need a desktop OS for.
iOS is getting RAW support in iOS 10 and Lightroom Mobile just got updated to support RAWs on iOS but is it good enough to use as your only way to edit photos when you're not at your desktop? I'm just a hobbyist and I don't do any serious work for now.
>>2883887 No. Tablets suck at color management and Lightroom Mobile does not have feature parity with the desktop version (no print settings, no lens profile corrections, no sharpening/noise reduction/spot removal/masking helper overlays, terrible preset support).
Most importantly, it's not intended to replace Lightroom for desktop, so not only features will continue coming first to the desktop version, who knows which features may never come to the mobile version.
Are you really considering not having a computer... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
As a regular poster of /p/, I feel saddened that I have to post a gear thread... But us armchair detectives are lacking the answer to something I feel only you guys can answer.
We are currently trying to identify the type of VHS camera / app emulation , used in these videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ygh2CCRtlEk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLwktE8qrcw (A few others use the same filter but without the timestamp.)
We have a discord chat for the ARG if anyone wants to jump in: https://discord.gg/DVxWg
Celluloid photography has been able to develop certain exposure rules based on the ISO sensitivity of film. Things like the Sunny 16 rule come to mind (100ISO-f/16-1/125). But if you try Sunny 16 on a modern DSLR, your gonna be super underexposed. What gives? Is there any sort of equivalency to film and digital ratings or are the values arbitrary?
You'd think digital ISO standards would parallel classical film photography. Is it a matter of sensor technology or improper exposure metering? Are there any DSLRs with similar metering to celluloid?
Digital camera manufacturers fudge their ISOs a little bit to make their cameras seem like they perform better. You can check on DxO for example where they test the true sensitivity of camera sensors, most are like half a stop off or so. You would never notice it in practice because the camera has a meter built in which is of course calibrated to match the camera's true sensitivity, but if you instead set your exposures using an external meter which is calibrated for true ISO then your photos would be underexposed.
Film manufacturers can't get away with that... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
ITT We tell thruths about photography that we learned first hand by experience.
>the sunny 16 rule underexposes by a stop or so >I'll fix it in post -attitude means you are a bad photographer >shooting film makes you a better photographer, just like shooting primes does >you literally know as you press the shutter if your photo is good or uninteresting. Saying anything else is excuses. This however doesn't mean you know necessarily what is wrong with the photo. That makes taking bad photos for personal critique a good habit. >you are all shit photographers >browsing /p/ or any other website doesn't make you a better photographer. Even when it gives you knew ideas and tools you still have to equip them by physical practice >post processing is a skill as crucial as the photograph itself
>Film photography is an uncreative medium for photographers who can't handle full control of their photos >Even if you shoot film, you're a joke unless you develop and scan your own film >You're just a hobbyist unless you've made money for photography or done gallery work >you're a fucking idiot if you shoot jpeg and can't justify it with being a sports photographer or photojournalist >your brand/gear... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>2887161 >the sunny 16 rule underexposes by a stop or so the sunny 16 rule is arbitrary and absolutely unreliable given how fast and unnoticeably fluid eye accomodation is to changing light conditions. The only reason it ever works is people's ignorance over what exactly a properly exposed negative constitutes (being able to salvage a workable image off a very wide range of over/underexposure with digitisation means as many as there are) and the obscenely wide exposure latitude of film... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Get the R2 for 35mm framelines, R3 for 40mm framelines. The shutter's a little noisier but they're superior in every way. If you're poor, you're probably only going to be able to afford an M4 or M6, If you get an M6, you'll worry every single day about the corrosion issues.
voigtlander bessa Rs have aligntment issues. they're very easily bumped out of alignment. people on this board were shitting on me for not knowing how to focus or how my scans were shit, but it was the dumb camera all along
Think about this; you have an analog device which counts photons in an interesting way. The more photons hit it, the more power it lets through. Now you have to cram 12~50 million of them on a board. In order to collect color information you need a tiny dye over every one. the color must be relatively exact and consistent. Then you need enough ADCs to sate all of them, and interface them with computers which must decode and process the data from every single one every time a photo is taken. Some of these cameras can do it nearly ten times a second, possibly more if you're... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>2885677 I'm gonna guess the answer to your question is actually about shutter speed. You're trying to get that look of natural motion, not a slide show of snapshots in quick succession. What you have to do, regardless of the camera you choose, is make sure the shutter speed isn't too fast.
The basics of videography are similar to the basics of photography.
Learn about shutter speed and aperture and all that and then look at the difference between video shot at quick vs slow shutter speed.
>>2885677 shoot 24fps at 1/24s. crop to 21:9. shoot flat profile and give it a yellow tint. use 50mm f1.8 lens wide open. you probably need an nd filter for this. don't get a chink one. or maybe get a chink one to flare it up.
Hey /p/, how do you manage your photo collections? I just got into LR and I think I messed up.
Anyhow, I have a lot of pictures, say from my holidays. Several have some artistic merit, others are holiday snapshits.
How should I keep my photos organized, yet optimized for storage space?
I have two terabyte drives that I intend to use for photos. Should I keep the unedited RAW files? After I'm done with postproduction, what is the best way to export my pictures keeping maximum quality?
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