How do you get lighting like this? I feel like it's just overcast natural light with how soft and even her skin tones are but she doesn't have any deep shadows covering her eyes or anywhere else which I always get when I shoot in overcast conditions. Is he using a softbox and if so how are there no shadows behind her?
Does anyone here ever do photography while on the water, specifically while kayaking?
I've been kayaking several times before, but never with my camera.
I'm looking to buy a dry bag (like the Earth Pak - 10L or 20L) to store my camera at all times when I'm not actively taking a photo with it so that if I dump overboard I don't lose my gear to the bottom of the ocean, but it sounds like a giant pain in the ass to pull it in and out of there.
Does anybody have any tips on how to keep my gear in one piece or how to take good shots while on the water?
I honestly wouldn't risk this, at all. I would just buy a marine kit or one of those fancy expensive purpose-built ziplock bag things. I don't mean use a ziplock bag. I mean it's made for using cameras in it.
I'd also keep the camera out at all times and just tuck it between my legs or something. I'm in the camp of people that believes if you're going to carry a camera to take photos, keep it out at all times to take photos. You will take zero photos if you have to get your bag out and take all your shit out to finally look through the viewfinder.
I agree with you, if I keep it in a dry-bag then I'll for sure take less photos. But the idea of going out on a craft where it is almost inevitable that you'll flip at some point with no way to protect your camera makes me pretty nervous.
Maybe just have the dry-bag at my feet and if waves pick up or something I can shove it in there?
>>2881957 These ones are the best bang for the buck apparently. They're meant to dive with your dslr for relatively long periods of time (I wouldn't risk doing that though) but for splash protection and an eventual dipping into the water when you flip over (less than 60 seconds until you and your camera are back on the kayak?) I think they would be perfect.
If it doesn't compromise your safety I'd tie it with some kind of bulletproof knot to your body or vest so it doesn't sink if you fall.
If by shooting outdoors you mean using the flash for fill flash, and they're using it on-camera, what difference does it make? Probably a small loss of power, maybe -1/3 or -2/3 stop less than a bare flash, right? It doesn't drastically increase the size of the light so what effect does it have on quality of light?
So the result is having to use higher flash power, resulting in slower recycle time and higher power consumption?
>>2881565 You are right. And when you are indoors less light is directed forward directly to the subject because some of it is instead directed to the sides, over and above the flash. From there on it bounces onto your subject. This means the fill light is spread out more throughout your scene.
The benefit it grants is small, but the drawbacks don't really hurt, so everyone just leaves it on the flash at all times. OPs raging is not justified.
Why is it so hard to find information about using flash/off camera lighting with film cameras. I've never used flash but I want to start using some artificial lighting with my Hasselblad 503cx and possibly a 35mm camera, preferably not speed lights. Do you use the same exact equipment you would with digital? Do I need to get older equipment? I already have a light meter so I won't have a problem getting exposure.
>>2880931 Often with stuff like the hassey as it is a studio camera so you would have studio flashes with either a master or a generator via PC cable. With 135 cameras you are often locked into a system of flashes. you can almost always convert to PC (X-Sync) one way or another and then use something like a light meter to determine what the correct exposure is. If you want to use more compact flashes you could look at something like METZ, depends on you camera how you hook it up. If you want better advise describe exactly... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Hello /p/, I've got time for a quick dump so I'm going to post a few images from the last few months. I'm now fully self employed which just as everyone said means that I have less spare time than ever.
Also, I've given in to the lure of square format. For this recent trip it was the only camera I carried into the dunes and it was wonderful to be able to compose them differently. I think this will be a nice change of pace, mostly something I'll just use for those incredibly long backpacking trips or when I want to try something new. Don't worry, I'm just going to start off with some squares I have some other rectangle stuff too.
Starting a thread with the only image with a border just to get you guys riled up. It's not so much a cheesy border as it was a mock-up so my lab can see how I want these mounted and framed. I'm excited to see this one finished.
There's a photography contest I'd like to take part to, doesn't have any theme or rules except that the picture must not be of yourself, also I have to write some 2deep4u toughts, or memories, to go with the picture.
The problem is that I have very little fantasy, all I do is taking pics of my bike and panoramas so I don't have anything I think has a chance to win.
I'm thinking about heading back to this location in a couple of days to see if I can shoot something nice, there's gonna be a similar weather as in the pics.
>>2881723 do a wide landscape-esque shot of your naked belly and write "I remember when I could see past this" I'm kinda serious though, are you sure this has to be 2deep4u? I think it's probably more important that it's genuine and creative, the judges are going to have piles of mysterious empty landscapes with attached platonisms about time to sift through
If you can look at a picture and understand their intention, be able to see what they were going for shown by the composition and subject they picked in an interesting manner it's good photography
For instance in the picture you posted there's a clear idea behind why they took it and it was executed in a manner that makes it clear and concise
If you're just starting out I'd suggest not just walking around with a camera a lot snapping photos of things you think are neat but try imagining... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>2881094 I think this is a good advice, I'll add my 2 cents: Study the work of other photographers, not necessarily famous buy known and appreciated for their style or what they brought to the table. This will help you learn a lot and figure out what kind of photos you'd like to take. After all, You don't know where you're going until you know where you've been.
Find something interesting. Think about how to capture what you find interesting about it. Think about how to frame it to capture it. Think about how to expose it to capture it. Think about lighting, what time of day, maybe come back...
Go out and do this 100 times and maybe you'll get 1 picture actually interesting.
I was asked to shoot a wedding at the weekend, it was ok but I struggled to photograph people in the dim light of the evening reception. I used flash of course but it killed off all the ambient light and the resulting shots had no atmosphere. I tried turning off flash and cranking up the ISO, this worked to keep the ambient lighting but the skin tones were all over the place - red, purple, green from the disco lights. How do I shoot like pic related? How is it so well exposed and so well balanced?
You want to be using a moderately high ISO, and if needed you can use a slower shutter speed than you usually would handheld to expose the ambient light. Your subjects are then exposed using flash, which you set to 'rear-curtain'. The rear-curtain mode will expose the ambient light first before triggering the flash, and the short duration of the flash itself freezes the subjects so the slow shutter speed (perhaps 1/20 at 50mm) shouldn't produce any motion blur from camera shake. The flash you use should be from a flashgun and either bounced off a light ceiling/wall... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
OP here, I get that you should expose for the ambient light first then flash to freeze the subject. My problem was that the flash was illuminating too big an area of the room, bouncing off the low ceiling. I suppose I should have zoomed the flash in so it's more localised in effect and probably gel it orange to better match the ambient light.
hi /p/ im a new guy who really wants to start with photography. im looked into alot of used cameras. I think from my research that maybe a siny a55 or a canon 550d might be good for this. Do you guys have any other recomendations? thanks
Hey /p/ I have a problem. I recently got an Omega C700 enlarger for making black and white prints in the darkroom and everyone I stop down the lens to print (around f8) the image gets these dark spots on it and it causes uneven exposure and basically makes printing a decent image impossible. I've never used an enlarger before but I've looked up tutorials and I have no idea what I'm doing wrong. Also just to clarify the problem is non existent at the widest aperture (3.5) and gets worse and worse until it's completely stopped down (f16 pic related)
Hey guys. I have MediaPad 7 lite and i'm trying to instal hack version of VSCOCam, instaling is ok, but when i'm trying to open it, it just crash, so where is the problem ? When i download free version from google play, that working. Can i maybe add filters in some other way to free version of app ?
moved on from VSCO some time ago so I dunno if the email trick still works, but if it still does then you can download the free version and look around to see if anyone is sharing an account with full presets. then you can log into that one, download the ones you need and just relog into your account, and the presets are yours forever.
Best way to get Lightroom 6 for free? Should I just download the legit trial via Adobe then somehow crack it? That's what I did with LR4 years ago, but I'm on a fresh computer and need the new version.
>>2881263 Yeah prob crack it I pirated it because i had some friend who went to a uni that gave out codes to students, but theres like this loophole that lets you reuse serial codes if you refuse to register with adobe during the install, so like me and 6 friends just reuse the same code over and over
>>2881263 Depends on if you're on OSX or Windows. if OSX, just find the Adobe Zii patcher and it's a one-button fix for any and all Adobe programs you have. I also recommend Hands Off! for firewall, I like it better than Little Snitch.
This is a terrible idea. Pawn shops have NO idea about camera equipment, especially when you start asking specifics like "what's the shutter count?". Today I was at Pawn America in Green Bay, they had a Nikon D7000 with an 18-55 VR kit lens, the whole thing was priced at $329 plus tax. I was super tempted to buy it, and I almost did, until I popped the lens off and locked the mirror open and saw a HUGE stain on the sensor, like someone had dropped coffee or some dark brown liquid directly onto the sensor. I didn't take a picture, though I should have, but it looked something like the attached image.
I told the girl who was helping me in plain English "This camera is junk, I'm not interested". Her response was typical: "We test all of the cameras before we buy them, if it's for sale, it works".
How do you deal with buying cameras and equipment secondhand? Do you take a chance on something, or do you spend a bit more and just buy directly from a reputable dealer? I've had mixed results in the past - I took a gamble on a Nikon D40 with an 18-55 VR kit lens for $110, got it home and the shutter count was 46,600 (about 92% of its expected shutter life). I also purchased a 105mm NIKKOR AI-S lens for $15 from the same pawn shop and it's one of my favorite lenses for macro and closeup work.
Do you have any pawn shop horror stories or fantastic finds? I'd love to hear them ^_^
Help me /p/, I just bullshit my way into a job as a professional photographer and I know absolutely jack shit about taking pictures beyond tossing a camera in auto mode. I start in two weeks and I need to know how to set up a collapsible 'studio' for doing portraits, and how to take decent wedding photos. I'm going to be a Nikon D4S and a bunch of random lenses that were in a case, I think there were about 15 of them, he said they were mostly prime but had a few zoom. FUCK This job pays really well and I didn't think I was going to get it
How can I... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Interchangeable back (all are backside illuminated) full frame mirrorless camera with movable flange distance as well as 5 axis sensor based IS, which can be coupled with optical IS (as well as other sensor movements).
EF mount, but movable flange distance allows thousands of lenses to be used.
4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 18, 20, 24, and ultra high detail 50mp backs available.
electronic and mechanical shutter from 1+ hour to 1/8000 second exposure. manufacturer provides lens adapters... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>just posting in the FGT doesn't make you gay, unless you use Caffenol
To start off, I'm trying to scan some negatives and they're extremely dark. Left side of pic related is my attempt, right side is the scan I got back from my developers. I'm using a CanoScan 8800f as its something I happened upon, but if need be I might purchase an Epson v600.
>>2874593 Sure, but it doesn't seem to bring out the colors properly, more so just wash things out. I don't know if its an error in my post processing or what. If someone wants, I can put the original .tiff on mega and link it.
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