Pecs and Booties Edidtion!
>Citadel Painting Guides:
>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
old thread >>43424415
So I was tired of painting tacs and decided to add some termies to my army. I made my squad leader first. His arm was really fun to do. I used a bionic leg of a dead marine found on the base of the fulgrim model. The head is...well...Eidolon. I preferred the helmet to the head so I just used the head bit. The skull is from my GF's dark eldar bits box aswell as the wrack mask on his belt/ groin area and the chains hanging from under his shoulderpad. The hand is from the Grey Knights termie set. Thought it would be a cute little "Fuck you" to khorne. Anyways, how did I do overall?
I like it, but the blade on the bolter might be a bit too long, comparing with the gun itself. And the hair is a very, very white, too white to be honest.
Other than that, a rather nice model.
These fucking retards every time.
>Optional pinup models to drum up interest and get more money. Not included in base game, only bought by people who wanted those specific models. Many of them either don't have rules, or have non-pinup versions.
>Lololol you guys are playing a poooorn game, lololol magical realm.
When did a bunch of nerds turn into such Talibans anyway? Is it people overcompensating for being such perverts in private? Were they molested by plastic kits as kids? Catholic as fuck? What?
Witch Elves and Daemonettes were topless since before your balls dropped son, and those were the STANDARD models, most of the T&A KD models are special alternative versions.
So I guess warhammer is a porn game too.
So I wen't a little nuts on this venom. I wanted to make it look like ratmen looted it. What do you think?
It still hovers I just need to create the mount for the flying base underneath still.
Come on. Even the monster have t&a. One of them even got an anal vore attack. Tell me that's not magical realm, I dare you.
Don't be so defensive about it. If you like it you like, at least be honest and embrace it.
Realized why people use Khorne red on these things instead of darker tones
Will call it a blood reaper and continue painting it
WIP of my Plasma Knight. It's been months since I worked on it ha
So, question. What tools do you guys use mainly? Citadel own or stuff you guys have found over the years? I was given a small set of Citadel brushes and home tools by an old hobby friend of mine but I wanna get something better as they are all either worn out, used up or just not that good.
tl;dr tool recommendations
Help me, WIP, you're my only hope!
After more than 10 years of non-painting I'm finding myself with dozens of tiny plastic toys on my hands.
Back in the day, Vallejo were the colours of choice, are they still any good? What about washes? I've read that with inks or washes other brands might be better.
I feel like it might have worked better if you had flipped the cannon over and found a way to put the joint of the arm directly on the gun rather than attaching it to the knight-kit's gun.
Vallejo paints are great, but check your air metallics for clogging because sometimes there are old bottles on the rack. For washes, secret weapon, army painter, gw or vallejo's non-dipping solutions work well
Several reasons: Hard to use in my current apartment, I feel it "cheapens" good blending and doesn't look as good as well done wet/two brush blends, and cleaning it is a bitch and a half.
alright, so progress on my infiltrator unit for Skitarii. Fixed with some over all details, and working on some weathering atm.
Will be doing some base work tomorrow, and a seal to finish of.
Anyone have experience thinning down normal vallejo game color or model colors for an airbrush? Wondering how well that will work as I don't really want to go out and buy paints specifically for airbrushing if normal paint plus thinner is enough.
i paint boats for a living, id go airbrushing for vehicles/big fuckers and land/buildings.
but then again i prefer the brush, and am in no rush for completion, where do i have to be, we all gonna end up in the dirt
If your game ever turns up that is.
And if/when it does, dont forget to let literally everyone know by posting on every site you can find. Then do an unboxing video. Then post your special snowflake game variant that you think makes you uber creative. Then paint the models badly and post them literally everywhere again.
For these miniatures I used mostly simple techniques. Drybrush on the metal parts, wetblending with a brush on the gray, finishing with some edging. Did some on the coat with my airbrush as its the only surface large enough to actually get any use out of it. Just a quick highlight to speed up the work.
Washed with GW washes, weathered with MIG powders, and AK interactive rust streaks. Fixed some decals with Micro SET/SOL.
To get a good gradient, its all about working with thin layers of watered down paint, and don't swap the damn thing. You want you're paint to be under control, with this technique, every layer of paint (even the same color gradient), will add to the highlights. The red helm at the bottom for instance, is all painted in one color, but I used several coats well blended to make it appear as if its darker down the base. If I wanted to go higher, one could go for an orange or light red, and continue this transition.
My tip, check out YouTube, they got tons of great blending videos.
Looks like 2 different kits bashed together, but cool. I guess it will all come down to how it's painted if you can get the 2 styles to blend together. How do you plan on doing the pilot and gunner?
Depends on the individual bottle. Some colors typically require more thinning than others, some none at all.
I wouldnt recommend using 'normal' paint in an airbrush, def not in a .25 or .2
To get the GW site 'Eavy Metal standard should you start by applying the lightest in layers nearest to the edges and then going over the non-highlighted areas in darker colours? Or am I forced to edge highlight?
Also is airbrushing objectively superior?
Not sure what the tap water is like where you live, but most tap water contains particulates that can affect the paint by leaving a visible residue on the finish. Over time tap water impurities can also damage an airbrush or sable brush.
The $5-$10 for thinner for your airbrush, or $2 for a few gallons of distilled water are both worth it.
To me its all about what you try to achieve. The airbrush is a great tool for, as you mention, base coat, cover large areas with paint, Zenital highlights. But one of its main areas of work is to blend colors. Some know how to work it, some don't, just like a regular brush.
My point being, this wargaming hipster trend blowing /tg/s whistle ain't my tune. I believe the airbrush to be a great tool, but thats just it. And thats just it, to the professional painter, its just a tool, nothing more. So I find it disturbing when people (and this happens quite frequently) nags about on how wrong it is to use the airbrush for jobs its perfectly designed for, only because it feels like cheating.
Well, next time you paint the eyes of you're miniature, reflect on why you use the fine detail, and not the tank brush.
Posting more krieg
and another view of the krieg
Spend the $100 and get an iwata eclipse. Dont get the fake iwata, get the gravity fed hp-cs. Its the best entry level brush available, and one of the best all around brushes there is. Its durable, reliable, somewhat easy to clean, and at .25 its small enough to use on 28mm infantry.
Can you drink it? Then you sure as hell can put it in the airbrush. I have had my airbrush for about 9 years, and I haven't noticed ANY damage at all from that.
And exactly what "particulates" is there in this tap water we must avoid? Do you know more of it, or is it just some stupid shit you have red on the internet?
From personal experience, just don't go all along with all you read on the internet. Its full of shit that most of the time just isn't true, to make you spend more money on shit you don't really need.
You don't need to ask this question; when has "Chinese" ever been synonymous with "quality"? It's a bootleg brush. Anything Chinese is a bootleg brush. Even if you somehow get some miracle Chinese brush without shit machining, you won't be able to replace the soft ass shit steel needles it comes with when they all bend on you. Good airbrushes don't go for less than $100 US retail, ever. The one notable exception to the rule MIGHT be an Iwata Neo, only because the Japs are enforcing the QC at gunpoint.
>To get the GW site 'Eavy Metal standard should you start by applying the lightest in layers nearest to the edges and then going over the non-highlighted areas in darker colours?
No, you go dark to light.
>Or am I forced to edge highlight?
Well the "'Eavy Metal standard" you are referring to uses edge highlighting, so obviously?
>Also is airbrushing objectively superior?
Depends. If you are looking to save time, get more easy blending or lighting, or want an airbrushed look, then yes. There are some things airbrush cannot do, and if you just go ham with the brush you end up with overbrushed looking pieces of shit like pic related. I had an even worse example from this studio done in this style, but with a Riptide and obnoxious circles of glaring OSL everywhere, but I don't actually keep that shit on my hard drive so I can't find it right now.
Airbrush paints cost the same as thick paints.
>no additional effect
Not if he has shitty water, or doesn't know how to thin properly. And if you think even filtered water is as good as actual thinner for painting then...I dunno. Shit painter detected? Whatever, this is /tg/ so I'm not even surprised, morons like you post here every day.
Get you're cheep ass airbrush, unless you're starting up a professional painting service you wont notice the difference.
I had the expensive kind ($250 when I bought it years ago), and got a new one when my compressor broke down (also the expensive kind). I had to get one in a rush, so I when to my local hardware store and got a complete set for $70, including brush, compressor, hose, extra cup, extra needle, you name it!
And lo and behold my surprise when it worked like a boss! Did the exact same work I had been doing for several years. And this was about... 1 year ago, still running perfect.
>you wont notice the difference
Maybe if all you're doing is basecoating. But if you can't tell the difference in trigger feel between a Chinese brush and an actual good brush then I dunno you must have petrified Gorgon victim stumps for fingers.
Calm down anon. I live in Phoenix, AZ and there is visible residue at the bottom of a glass of tap water here. I lived in Anchorage, AK and its the same there.
Calcium being the #1 offender. If I rinse my brush with tapwater here, then apply a dark layer or a wash, there will be a white residue in the recesses of the model when the paint dries.
Thats great you dont have that problem.
Can you guess which one is from Harbor Freight?
Well, I only have a modest 17 years of experience of painting miniatures in the back pocket. Don't know about you, but to me thats a fair share of it.
With he extra buck, I meant for the water instead of thinner you idiot, did you not read the whole question?
And no, if the water is of some what quality, you get a fairly standard effect. The paints (most of them), is fully compatible with water and is a product SPECIFICALLY MADE so not to need any stronger substances to mix the color. Learn you're history new guy, before you start hating on others.
Again, no. The quality part is definitely no question about. I'm sure this old bag will break in a matter of years, not that it matters for a price of $11.
But the product you can put out is just about as good as my old brush, its all in the hands of the painter I'm afraid. And if you need quality stuff to paint better, you're just not that good of a painter I take it.
Water dries faster than acrylic retardant. If you thin with a retarder or thinner cocktail, you automatically gain benefits over water. Claiming water is "just the same" as factually superior liquids is stupid. It doesn't matter how long you've been painting, since you're clearly a retard to begin with.
>From personal experience, just don't go all along with all you read on the internet. Its full of shit that most of the time just isn't true, to make you spend more money on shit you don't really need.
Applies equally to shitty painters on /tg/ telling you to save money because they are poor and are too shit at painting to tell the difference between an acrylic thinner and water since they don't even blend to begin with.
I'm saying, if you're painting a miniature and using paint long enough for it to dry in the cup. You're doing it wrong mate.
Thus, stop being this retarded and just face it, its a unnecessary product produced so some (you in fact) can feel better for themselves for having more stuff they actually don't need, but cost more money so it must be better.
Dude you're an asshole. You have shit on two people now and neither was warranted. You made a stupid assumption about the first guy, because you were too ignorant to be aware of varying water quality.
Now you're either lying/backpedaling, or being a total asshole because someone misunderstood.
Seriously, you must be a miserable piece of shit sitting there spitting vitriol at anyone unfortunate enough to catch your attention. Consider suicide.
The more you thin something with water, the worse it gets compared to acrylic medium. If you've ever feathered 20+ layers or tried glazing, you'd know what I'm talking about. It's either the water's fault or the paint's fault, but since we all use the same brands of paint (Citadel, Vallejo, etc) but live in different cities with different tap water that leaves only one option.
>dry in the cup
Since when was I talking about airbrushing? You know Golden Daemon painters use retarders because they have to keep certain mixes alive long enough while blending right?
I doubt your shitty advice that's not only inaccurate, but completely ignorant is better than anyone's in this thread.
Why, because I don't agree with you?
Because I say to a guy, "from my perspective, just buy a cheep one, works just as fine for this kind of work".
How am I the bad guy here? Its not like I'm forcing my opinion on you. I have agreed that cheap price is shit quality, but I have also stated that it can produce just about the same quality of painting (again, on this scale, and for a happy hobbyist. Not someone who intends to start up a professional business, paining others miniatures for money). No need to get butt hurt just because you're super expensive gear just became as useful as a shitty $11 brush.
The same goes for this whole "what do I use for mixing paint?", you can absolutely use better stuff than water, I'm just saying, its not necessary. It wont show on the result, only reflect in you're wallet.
Again, if you go "boo hoo" on it, because you obviously am obsessed with these little things, don't blame me for having a second opinion.
Dude. Look at the models in the OP.
Those are the fucking starter models. Part of the base fucking game.
If you can look at those characters and not call them T&A, I don't know what to fucking say to you.
Because if you can do that, you're either a literal censor robot who only believes that nudity=exposed areolae and anuses. Or you're an apologist piece of shit and need to reevaluate your life.
Since I have nothing in the works other than primed stuff, reposting Renegades.
>Zombies are from Mantic. Their Zombie Apocalypse and Zombie horde models
>Laser Destroyers, defence line, and Mortars from curious constructs. Nice bit of customization at checkout from them.
>Medusas are 1:32 scale Vietnam era Long Toms with barrels cut from ww2toys.net Got three more in the mail to use as earthshakers.
>This guy replying to a text aimed at helping a guy asking about airbrush and paints.
>Doesn't even read the full question.
Oh, so you're just retarded then. Could have said so from the start, would have saved us some time.
>The same goes for this whole "what do I use for mixing paint?", you can absolutely use better stuff than water, I'm just saying, its not necessary. It wont show on the result, only reflect in you're wallet.
Then it's not actually "better". If you're trying to claim you just suffer through using shitty thinners like pure water because you can't afford a $3 dropper of thinner, then maybe you shouldn't be in this hobby, especially when you've had "muh 17 years" to scrounge up said $3.
Here, have some video proof if you being wrong:
>b-but that's oil
Oh, never heard of oil washes in over 17 years? Pffft.
>"Acrylic paint is a fast-drying paint containing pigment suspension in acrylic polymer emulsion. Acrylic paints are water-soluble, but become water-resistant when dry. Depending on how much the paint is diluted with water, or modified with acrylic gels, media, or pastes, the finished acrylic painting can resemble a watercolor or an oil painting, or have its own unique characteristics not attainable with other media"
And I take it you're not aiming for the paint to look like oil paint? This is from a regular Wikipedia. Just stop being stupid, and try to be a better human next time you log on, seriously.
Yeah painting should deal with some of that. The driver and gunner are going to be those little brain rats on the stormfiends. Im going to make those kits into talos, and the little ratlings will be perfect crewmen on my vehicles.
Well it's not looted by orks, it's looted by ratmen. Their goal will just be to get it working by overhauling the engines and everything, not just slapping random junk on it. I am thinking about doing some scratches and bullet holes on it.
Again retard, I was originally answering to a post about a guy asking for acrylic paints for his airbrush.
How retarded are you? I take it you're not <12 years of age, so this must be it?
Because he's going to paint with ONLY his airbrush right?
Don't even try to pretend your retarded, destitute niggardly ass wouldn't claim paintbrushes only need water to thin too. In fact, you're probably the same faggot who has been seen arguing multiple times on /tg/ that water is the best thinner. You might even be the same faggot who claimed you don't need to thin at all.
Nobody said water COULDN'T thin acrylics though. So no, you needn't say more, because you're a fucking idiot and the board is worse off for your presence.
You think the people using stuff other than water to thin can't just go and get a glass of water to thin if it's "better"? People aren't suggesting uses of thinners just to screw people over. You're the only one giving shit advice here.
Thinning airbrush with alcohol or floor wax or Windex serves a purpose. If you don't know why, then you probably aren't skilled enough to be arguing on the subject.
If he's just basecoating it won't matter but even using isopropyl over water will help with drying time, splatter, and spray distance and as a consequence, PSI.
I seriously hope you mean The Product Formerly Known as Future.
Right was washed with Nuln Oil, Left I used Guilliman Blue
Not sure which I like
>okay guys I couldn't find any floor wax but when I went to buy automotive primer the car store was selling car wax, that should work right?
>the only problem is it's solid, so how do I scoop the wax into the airbrush?
I think Pledge/Future is available in the UK too. I've heard of those guys using it but they might have imported it.
Interestingly enough I tried Googling pledge floor wax and it yields results for the acrylic gloss product we're talking about.
hey guys I was thinking of making some female knights by putting wargames factory female survivor heads (the ones that look the best for "most pre modern eras") and putting them on some perry or fire forge knights. Are the sizes about right for that?
I picked up an basically NIB Badger 200 for 15 bucks at an auction. Don't discount auctions and garage sales if you're looking to pick up reasonable equipment and supplies for cheap.
Preliminary line work done. Still need to add color and do cleanup.
whops forgot a foot. And obviously some black will need to be added in places and cleanup done.
Started painting up my sternguard recently. Just needs a bit more work on the flamer. Deathwatch theme going on at the moment.
Salamander guy from previous thread.
Finished him up last night. The flames were the most fun part, the eye was a bitch, first time painting a Space Marine.
Very open to C&C, especially on the black, not sure if I should use a lighter highlight, it's very hard to see even in real life unless you look closely.
The black looks very good. Might just be your lighting and photography, granted. But it looks right. Maybe add some highlighting to the scope, tabard - and the bolts on the upper backpack.
No, it just makes it easier to catch all the shit you're spraying out when cleaning the brush. You can just spray a blank sheet of paper to clean your airbrush. It's going to make the exact same mess as you normally make when airbrushing.
Sweet saved me $20.
Still not sure about the chinese knock off brushes. They're about 5x cheaper, surely not 5x as bad in quality?
As a complete newbie to airbrushing but a medium to advanced brush painter - will a chinese brush do?
Buy some good brush soap and you should be fine.
I use the rinky dinkiest pieces of shit I can find, but I religiously wash them after every session and I've had dollar store brushes last almost a year thanks to it. Michaela and other craft stores usually carry some. Tell them you need soap to wash off paint brushes used with acrylic paint and they'll know what you're talking about
Personal taste; i wanted a massive cannon.
+6 on the catastrophic damage table
The mask looks too low but its just the camera angle
Also, the other question I have, is the airbrush I'm looking at has a 7ml cup on it, which is pretty fucking big for the tiny details I'll be painting.
is that going to be a problem? because I've seen some brushes with smaller cups
Start with one model and get an idea for how things work, ideally some grunt that won't be getting a lot of attention when people look at your army.
>prime a good color for your army (look up advice for what to use based on your main color. For example, yellow often goes over a brown base)
>apply basic base colors in a nice thinned method. Ideally 2-3 coats. It's tedious on a single model but once you graduate to painting a squad at a time its not bad at all. General rule is one drop water to one drop paint.
>apply layers over base, ideally one shade lighter and avoiding cracks or other areas of shadow. Alternatively, you can use washes for this effect
>highlight with an even lighter shade, drybrush or actual highlights
>clean up areas where wash spilled over
>do final details
start with this:
so you won't get pointed out you forgot to clean up mouldlines/prime/anything. Next part is about paiting SM.
you have great tutorials how to paint SM (and many other armies)
The cups can be swapped out. Having a too big cup doesn't really matter. You never fill the cup very much regardless of your cup size anyway. Needle size and PSI are what affect detail spraying.
You can get them new for less than 150 online. Even before the discount for one site that has it at $143 it's only $170.
$90 for a Neo, or $100-150 for an Eclipse? It's an easy choice. Don't waste $90 on a Neo unless it's the brush you're going to use it forever or you plan on having more than one airbrush and wouldn't mind having a Neo lying around when you buy a superior brush later on.
The post you're quoting doesn't even mention alcohol? And says retardants dry slower than water? You realize there are a billion NON alcohol thinners right? Thinner doesn't even come close to automatically meaning alcohol.
Vraks Renegade Autocannon teams done. Have so very many left to go, but converting these guys has been a blast so far.
and quick fixed on the bad one
Finally finished my bretonnian lord, thoughts?
It bothers me that people can't just say
>yeah I like it because of the T&A? so what?
and instead have to go through some seriously circular logic to try to justify it to themselves
That being said
I was surprised how much I actually enjoyed the game independent of the models
For example weapon glow effects come out super smooth. Yes it is fast but it lacks the more detailed, segmented relfection effect. It's usually easy to tell brushwork minis from airbrush minis by how much detailing and lines it has on it. There of course pro studios who take the time to do detailed brush work over the airbrushed base, which is how it should be. Many airbrushers use it to get things done quickly and then get upset when people aren't excited about their work.
I'm convinced you're actually retarded. Every time you post your shitty paint jobs you get your stupid face in the image and distort the details of the model. What don't you understand?
I'd recommend getting the hot lead video set. You can find it on the internet for free. Other than that you can watch the some of the games workshop stuff on youtube.
For beginners, prime your miniature with grey, white, or colored spray primer. Krylon/tamiya/army painter are good choices. Don't use black, it's a pain to work with.
You need to focus on 3 things:
1. Paint consistency. Thin your paint a bit (water works), so that it spreads evenly and doesn't leave brush strokes, but not so thin that you can't control where it goes. You should aim for 2-3 layers of a color for a smooth coat, though depending on the background color you might need more layers in some cases.
2. Brush control. AKA only get the paint where you want it to go. Only load a small amount of paint onto the brush, and draw a line with it on paper to ensure you don't have too much paint on the bristles before applying the paint to the miniature.
3. Patience. To get good looking results you need time. Fix your mistakes if you make them, don't be afraid to paint an area a couple times if it doesn't turn out okay. If you're using thin paints you can apply a lot of layers without clogging up the details.
Oh, and don't touch drying paint. Ever.
guys I can't resist.....do you think I should buy for 200? ',:)
I have never, ever treated my miniatures after painting with varnish or anything. I'm always afraid it will ruin my hard work by being cloudy or sticky etc.
Where do I start? Nothing really detailed in the OP
Not the Anon you're replying to, but I feel the need to reply, because I sincerely don't believe it's about being elitist or some hipster bullshit.
There is a feeling to gradients, and airbrush gradients have this perfect quality that makes it stand out and somehow look fake, you know?
It's like pinups in magazines looking so damn perfect. Apparently it's a very popular style? But that's what it is : a style. And personally I don't like it. It looks dead, boring, mass-produced.
It's perfection in a can, but it lacks emotion.
As a tool, the airbrush is just that : another tool in your belt, something to use to achieve an effect. No problem with that!
But it seems to foster a style, which few painters will then escape to create their _own_ style.
Not sure if that makes sense?
Ye gods, he's back!
Come on, Anon.
I'm sure it's still funny to catch a few people who haven't seen your glorious work before, but you gonna up your game, man!
A real teenage girl would somehow manage to show some cleavage or something, at this point.
Couldn't you guys just tell us the active ingredient in that shit? That would be a lot more useful and avoid endless discussions about local names...
For instance, do the terms "anionic surface agents", or "surfactants" mean anything to you?
Coz that sounds a lot more useful to know than hearing how you use a floor wax to thin paint.
(I'm genuinely curious, btw)
The green and gold have a wonderful harmony, I really like them.
The black is a bit flat, yeah, but I'm not sure it's a bad thing that the highlights are subtle, because your blending skills seem a bit poor, desu.
That edge highlighting on the green parts ... could be better. I love the colour choice, but I think a bit more blending would have really made this mini stand out.
I'm not sure if it's the photo lighting or your execution, but for example, the blending on the back of the feet is spot on. If you'd done that all over, it would be glorious.
Also the black was on the laurels is not a very nice idea.
It's great to see the work done over several threads. But I just can't shake the feeling I've seen this face somewhere before...
Thanks for the input, I need to work on my highlighting quite a bit if I want to collect Spess Muhreens. I actually think I need to start using more water in the paint for the highlights to gradually add on the colour, it's been hot as balls lately where I live and the paint seems to dry reeeally fast on the brush.
Is there any sort of technique for blending that is good to practice?
So, i finished assembling and priming my Kroot Pathfinder squad leader, looks pretty good with the Fire Warrior Kroot. Now to get on with my Breachers. So much to do. What do yall think?
Wow. I actually wrote to forge world asking about this they naturally replied with nothing about my request but still thank me for sending it in.
I'm glad to see someone else had a similar idea.
Is $150 a good deal for
3 apparently interchangeable leman Russ
1 converted Hydra
3 Bolt Action tank Chimeras
I'd need to strip and repainted which isn't difficult with tanks
I hope you reply to this swenson. I've been thinking of making an actual 40K version of this.
Like turning the weapons into 40k stuff so it looks better because it kinda matches already.
wait, wait, just wait desu sempai.
>Anons searching out kd:m in threads to bash the t&a, might even be the same person judging by timestamps.
>"Oh man I'm just here to tell you that the best models ever mass produced are fap bait and grognard tier!"
>But while I WTFhate the models and can't stand anyone saying they like the models just for the fact they're detailed and so beautiful it makes eyes bleed, the game is pretty ok.
I can't help but think of the "Lolol I'm not really retarded, I was just kidding!" comic.
How I read all the kd:m hate posts:
1) I can't afford it, so I'm going to smash on it and ignore everything but the same points feminazis brought up when they first saw the game out of a supreme sense of bitterness.
2) I'm a literal child who thinks that 90% of the people buying, even the pinups, will fap to them, and omg NERDS! I'm only on this forum to shame NERDS! I'm not here as a NERD myself LOL.
3) I've got some serious issues with people's private interests when they conflict with the MSM's portrayal of sexuality, and get uncomfortable faced with so many objectified bodies, and doubly uncomfortable when confronted by horror monsters playing directly off sexuality.
4) I've only got issue with people claiming they don't think there's t&a in the game! I'm just a crusader for literal autism. Have you read my thesis on the GW business model and seen my dark eldar collection? God forbid you actually look closely at those horrible cast miniatures and see the barely concealed t&a and rape culture!
I mean shit. I don't like the wet nurse or gorm, but that's due to me thinking the models aren't on par with all the rest.
Have you seen shit like the hand and the butcher? It's creepy as fuck having hands peeking out of the pheonix's anus, but it's a fucking horror game. It's refreshing to have a game with such detail and then use that detail to actually convey a sense of discomfort.
>pls leave waaaa! fetishes! sex! omg!
>no pictures in WIP thread.
>dark eldar don't have rape culture! you're from pol aren't you!
>please post more pictures
>no pictures in WIP thread again.
Meanwhile... Have some more images. They might not be WIP but I hope by letting anons out there know I'd love to see what they've done with the KD:M models they might post them.
Have another hand.
Nigger, I've been on 4chan for a decade and half that time was spent on /b/. Chainsaw rape, shitting dicknipples, people cutting off and eating their own balls, I don't give a fuck, it doesn't even phaze me. I just really want you to take your selfrighteous sperging and shove it right up your puckered asshole, you're ruining the thread with your feminism bullshit.
Because autismo over there won't shut about his fap fap fap waifu models he probably doesn't even own in the first place. He's been consistently shitposting since yesterday about it. Porn games attract that kind of crowd I guess. Make your own KD Q&A thread I say.
I just got my hands on Liquitex matte medium and flow aid. Help, how do I actually use them?
I got sold into the idea of doing many thin layers to builds highlights, how exactly do those two products play into that?
Well, think of a Gimp2/Photoshop opaque slider. The more medium you add to the paint, the more see through it becomes. This takes some getting used to because at first you'll be all like "woah, isn't this too much paint on one part" and then you're all "fuck, it's still too transparent".
Flow improver does as the name implies, it improves the flow of the paint, allowing you to put down nice evenly distributed layers of paint even on uneven surfaces.
Liquitex flow aid is diluted 1 part flow-aid to 10-20 parts water. Matte medium allows you to increase the transparency of paint without really affecting the viscosity.
You mix paint and medium until you get the transparency you want, then just treat that mix as your paint and dilute it with the flow aid mix to desired consistency.
My goddamn middle click just broke.
>without really affecting the viscosity
This really depends on the thickness of the paint though. I occasionally throw a bit of medium in my GW pots to keep them alive, but if I'm not careful enough they turn runny.
It's about the same consistency as most dropper bottle paints I think.
help? I've officially reached Model Overload... Where should I start? This is every mechanicus related unit in my collection. From right to left... Cult Mechanicus, Imperial Knights (in service to the mechanicus), Skitarii, Flesh Tearer's Detachment (for transports), 30k Taghmata, and Mechanicus themed Astra Militarum.
>I want to see WIPs of models I see people hating on for crazy reasons.
>Hoping my support will encourage people to share model WIPs on KD:M, since if I had models in progress, and saw all you hardcore faggots raging about this shit I wouldn't post shit for you.
>Meanwhile you all respond to my posts without images, implying you're here to look at models too, but for some reason you don't want to see KD:M models. That really begs the question why you're so fucking against encouraging people to post them, and so fixated on discouraging them.
>The easy and logical answer is that you're just a jealous poorfag who spent all your dosh on GW putty-men with quality direct from the 90s, and your reading comprehension is fresh from Detroit.
But hey, don't let me stop you from being cancer. I notice now that you can't make the "ermahgod just admit they're t&a" argument you're just plain shitposting. Good to know. Now shut up and let me encourage KD:M owners to post WIPs you unrepentant assholes.
Here's a picture that qualifies as WIP.
>ERMAHGOD TITS REEEEEE
Dude, you're just being a shithead.
Fuck off to the KD general if you want to go on about it, this is a WIP thread. I genuinely don't care about the t&a argument or any of the other bullshit spouted in this thread, you're just shitting it up for everybody.
>I want to see WIPs of models I see people hating on for crazy reasons.
Then buy them and start posting them.
>>Hoping my support will encourage people to share model WIPs on KD:M, since if I had models in progress, and saw all you hardcore faggots raging about this shit I wouldn't post shit for you.
Well, that's just you isn't it. Not many people were 'raging hard' about it anyway, just the couple of guys who started it and you, who have now spent the whole thread bitching and whining at each other.
>>Meanwhile you all respond to my posts without images, implying you're here to look at models too, but for some reason you don't want to see KD:M models. That really begs the question why you're so fucking against encouraging people to post them, and so fixated on discouraging them.
People are responding to your posts without images because they don't want to get this thread further towards the image limit, giving people with genuine WIPs the chance to post them. If I just wanted to look at models, I'd go on google images.
>>The easy and logical answer is that you're just a jealous poorfag who spent all your dosh on GW putty-men with quality direct from the 90s, and your reading comprehension is fresh from Detroit.
And now you're just straight up trolling. I don't play any GW games and get most of my miniatures from Warlord and various small manufacturers. I have nothing against KD models being posted in a WIP thread, provided that:
a) they're actually WIP and the poster wants constructive criticism
b) they're not accompanied with paragraphs of raging bitter vile spewed at anyone who doesn't like KD
tl;dr fuck off and stop shitting up the thread
Hey guys, decided to try and convert up some Tanith. Always liked their backstory and history.
This is a test model I did, so it's pretty poor, but I hope it gives enough of an impression for some feedback on the cloak, colour scheme and flesh. I made the cloak from a baby wipe, which I dyed with ink, then dipped into watered down PVA. I really like the realistic fabric look, and it's much cheaper and easier than greenstuffing cloaks for an entire army.
Excuse shitty lighting.
Has anyone successfully used vallejo's poly primer, in grey or white, using a brush?
I can't tell if my bottle of grey is pure shit, or if it is not good for brushing. In contrast, I've been using the black version for months and it's glorious. Grey though, is a streaky mess with shit coverage.
Stop posting. You really need to just stop. Stop now.
Ops picture is off Google. Never seen a WIP thread hit image limit either. Look around. How many posts have I made? Four now, with plenty of text, sure, but fuck you if your samefagging isn't creating more clutter. So just stop. Show me you're not a complete shitlord. I'm done posting. If you can't scroll up and see something wrong with those shit posts I've responded to, then enjoy your WIP thread. Googling up blogs is better, you're right. This thread should just die by your logic. Nice!
Yeah, the painting got all messy when I drybrushed the cloak and I couldn't be bothered to do the skin properly. Mainly trying to see if the cloak looks alright, I wasn't sure if baby wipes would work.
Cry more bitch nigger, go to the KD general already
Raveners indeed and i know they are pretty bad but
i really really wanted raveners for like 15 years and happened to need something to paint.
Im sure they will be fun in friendly games though.
>"Oh man I'm just here to tell you that the best models ever mass produced are fap bait and grognard tier!
Also why do care? Just enjoy your miniature and ignore remarks like this
>"Oh man I'm just here to tell you that the best models ever mass produced are fap bait and grognard tier!"
Why do you care? Just be happy with your own minature and ignore remarks like this.
You habe no stake in this except to justify your own purchase
I experimentally glued a metal dread together with it, then tried to take it apart after freezing it for a week. The body woudln't come apart and I had to use a lot of force just to get the arms off
It's like three times more expensive but I'll go out of my way to get it
That probably means there's something there besides the cyano-acrylate. Cyano-acrylate crystal is very rich in water and expands quite a bit when frozen (which tends to break the bond), if that stuff doesn't, there's something in there that maintains the bond when the cyano-acrylate is forced to fail. So I assume there's some kind of clear epoxy or something in there to reinforce the bond.
>Owning models you never actually played, because you heard/red they where terrible.
Think this sums up /tg/ in every possible way.
In other news, play with what you think is fun and good looking armies with great fluff and you will have a great time. Especially if you happen to find a group that thinks the same.
>scenery and diorama purposes
I don't play nids but I thought they looked cool and made them into jungle lurkers for my catachan
Putting that aside, I have thousands of models I don't intend to use for games
Really? This is what I get, no matter what I do.
Even though the reasons may vary. One can be a pure hobbyist, and simply owning models to paint, not to play. But most of the time all you hear is "muh codex sux now! Il place my army on the shelves for 3 years until they do an update, fucking GW!". God forbid they played the game a bit more casual. You don't want to be marked a hugger, but at the same time not be too eager on the rules debates to be marked a WAAC.
one trick that's worked for me, that a friend clued me into, is deepstriking them outside of synapse, inside terrain. Since they're not fearless on their own, if they come under fire, which they usually will when you deep strike them near an enemy, you can have them go to ground for that +1 cover. Since they've gone to ground, next turn they don't have to take instinctive behavior. Then, just move a Synapse creature up in range and since they immediately become fearless, "all the effects of Go to Ground are immediately canceled," and they can act as normal, getting into melee where they can really shine with Rending Claws.
And to contribute to the actual thread, Command Frame is base coated and washed. Haven't gotten around to starting the highlights on him yet though, and it is incredibly hard to find a pot of Agrax Earthshade for my bases in this city.
Converting a Saint Celestine mini into my own special snowflake jump pack canoness. Going to be pinning a spare seraphim jump pack on her instead of that ridiculous cloak.
I'm debating whether I should replace the dove hand for a bolt pistol instead but I'm undecided, should I? I kinda like the little fella.
That was scriptarius he was a cool guy who's friend painted him that portrait of hitler and a fantastic one of him too. He made a lot of neat conversions including a gingerbread dreadnought and stompa. The stompa was even featured in a issue of white dwarf.
Is that white? I use ghost grey and black myself. It is water soluble, so try thinning it a tiny bit just to improve the flow. My priming also ends in near see through layers, that is why I love the stuff
Thanks. I plan on using a whole bunch of of the mantic veermyn mixed with dark eldar bits to make this into a proper space skaven army. Using Haemonculus Covens formations and detachments, it's mostly going to be moulder themed.
I made another one of these looted venoms. For the 3rd I'm just going to order the hull and cockpit bits as I don't need the entire venom kit to make one of these.
>Trying to not make Ravenwing look boring as shit
But does it look okay now? Also not very experienced with weathering pigments.
I've just re-read the Sisters of Battle codex and just noticed that Canoness' can't take jump packs. Fuck. Looks like she will have to be a Saint not-Celestine.
Why does GW hate Sisters so much?
So here's a question for you guys:
I can't get specialized mini paints in my town,
only craft acrylics that people use for birdhouses and shit. I've painted some minis with them, but I wonder if it affects my quality or if it really doesn't matter. Any advice/anecdotes?
It affects your quality but as I said earlier, you're not going for a golden demon.
I use those same acrylics (rarely on minis) and it just means I need an extra coat or two so painting things takes a bit longer.
It doesn't matter overall, I mean, when my friend was 12 and painting his IG some of thsoe are painted with house paint and you can't tell.
Ok, I'm not OP, or any other KD anon, but I do love board games.
So here's how I feel about KD.
It's shit, $400 for a board game is never worth it. It's 38 minis and a buttload of cardboard and it's fucking shit.
I can buy 8 top of the line board games for that price that don't have the painting and assembly time investment that KD does.
However, I love cheesecake models, my favourite reaper model is their succubus wizard which incidentally, is in a thong wearing a beach-shawl type thing which hangs off her hips and shows off her ass.
Her metal bikini has a single strand that curls around to block her nipples.
I love the sophies, and I do own a kingdom death miniature.
I bought a twilight knight pinup for $13
It's a 30mm cheesecake woman with huge thighs sticking her ass out and showing cleavage.
I don't play sci fi skirmish games, I don't play 40k anymore, I will never use this mini.
I will build it and paint it and like how it looks though.
So I bought it.
Is kingdom death a good game? Probably. Is it worth $400? Definitely not. Is it a wargame? No. Is it /tg/ related? Hell yes it is.
It's a board game about dungeon crawling in a setting which doesn't get a lot of love in the mainstream. It's got heavy doses of geiger and freud and a shit load of psychological baggage.
Is it fetish fuel? Yeah but a lot of /tg/ stuff is, magical realms and what not. Even space marines are basically a masculinity fantasy about being big and strong and tough which is related to self-image and sexuality.
Now, why can't we all just get along and in the future, SPOILER TAG KINGDOM DEATH PICTURES.
They're almost always NSFW and this is a blue board, it's pretty reasonable not to post tits and brains everywhere.
Yes I want to see KD minis, yes I like KD minis, no I don't like the gore and guro ones, yes that are INAPPROPRIATE FOR MOST PEOPLE.
You're not going to have a display cabinet with your penis monster in your front hallway unless you're autistic as fuck
Best shot i can do with my selfie cam im afraid
I do love getting the lines clean. Of course once i post this im going to see tons of marks because HEE HAW KAMRAS
Why bother painting well at all, with this attitude. It's not a golden daemon, just slap some unthinned house paint on it in three different colors and you're qualified for tournaments.
You CAN see the blocked chest spots if you pick it up and move the model around, like every single person does whenever they closely inspect a model or pick one up, even if it's fine from the tabletop. Every model is just a colored blob from tabletop distance so "It looks fine from tabletop distance" doesn't mean much.
Feel a bit dumb for asking, but what would be the dark red base used on this model? Khador Red, Skorne Red?
What round-lip bases do you guys use?
I'm looking at getting some rounded lip bases for a few display models, but the only ones I can find in my country have a deep inset in the middle, so I'd have to fill them with some sort of shit first just to get them level.
New 4chan filters ebonics so to be honest which abbreviates to t+b+h or ' desu ' becomes desu, see what I mean?
And the short form of family which is used to denote close friendship becomes senpai, so " I got you senpai " is now " I got you senpai "
Why would you think they were P3 colors? It's not even a P3 model. People who buy FW don't buy shitty P3 paint. They'll overpay for Citadel or FW air or use something like Vallejo.
You already know he's not using P3 just by looking at the metallics and the fact that he used washes.
Hey all. looking for some advice. What tools and paints would you guys suggest for a newcomer to the hobby. invested in the reaper bones II a while back and am using them to learn on. Any advice. also...here's my latest mini.
I think I'll take it as a compliment that people are finding resemblance to people in his face lol.
People at my LGS think one of my bretonnian archers looks like terry gilliam, pic related, an old WIP of him (2nd archer from the left)
Thanks anons, was worried I was getting annoying popping up in every thread with a minor update
Wet brush to keep the paint from the ferrule, flow improver for thinning and matte medium for controlling how opaque your paint is. Retarder for blending. There's also crackling which can be used for cool effects
both are fine, and there isn't an exact ammount that you should apply, since you may thin some paints more than others to get certain results, also, watch Duncan's tutorials on youtube.
he's saying use water to keep it from getting globby and thick and looking cartoony.
You can use acrlyic medium to thin it or water.
Retarded for blending just means it'll dry slower, most new painters don't want that, you want to just let it dry then layer up changes slowly.
Crackling makes it crackle when it dries, ie not smooth, it's for specific texture effects.
Watch Duncan on youtube friend, you'll learn all the secrets.
I personally use a wet palette to blend, fuck retarders, you'd have to be a retarder to use those.
Ork color scheme test, no idea where I'm going with this
Retarder is good for blending huge areas, for small things it's overkill
Update on the ork, I'll post better pics in daylight sometime. Any suggestions for the name?
Tried to do an ork glyph on his chest but it looks too much like a dick so I'll be redoing it
Thanks. I actually just started watching him on recommendation too. Any recommendations for what colors to get. I bought all the primary colors as well as a large group of black and white. also any thoughts on what kind of brushes to pick up. i have the basic set from citadel but i was hoping for something smaller for facial detail work.
Oh and heres a pic of the entire unit finished if anyone cares
It was supposed to look like the ork word for deadly, a bone. Wrong kind of bone I guess!
I think you might be in the wrong thread, with that kind of attitude...
The pigment isn't bad. The blue is actually nicely shaded, somehow.
But that green! WTF is that neon green emblem on that blue? And chamoix robes? And gold, metal, dark angel green, white with a greenish wash and white with a yellowish wash...
Jesus painting Christ, is this a miniature or a palette?
>multiple parts have only 1 layer on solid color
>shading and highlights barely there
>huge unpainted areas
>didn't even bother to detail anything on the bike
come on, man, you aren't finished on that thing, you're just getting started.
But Anon, that's the fucking point! It's an inset so you can base your base!
You weren't thinking of just sticking your mini on a base and be done with it, were you?
Also use a non expending filler like Polyfilla or whatever the fuck it's called wherever you live. That stuff is cheap and perfect for our kind of uses.
If you wait a bit for a crust to form and do marking then, it looks like markings in dried mud or something.
Also an inset base allows you to fill it with some water effect gel, or something in the same spirit.
No I want to make really scenic bases, but I don't want to have to fill the well just to get it level. I've seen other round lipped bases that are pretty much level (maybe sunken by about 1mm) but I can't for the life of me find the brand/where to buy them.
Oh sorry, I assumed you meant a small 1mm or so gap.
Well, my advice about Polyfilla still stands for a deeper well, but I don't know much about blank bases so can't help you there, I'm afraid.
I believe there was a list of bits websites somewhere in the thread? That would be a good place to start looking!
It really looks glorious, I gotta say.
Shame it's all for naught, now.
P3 paints aren't bad
You can thin with water, or with >>43467571.
Paint is the stuff with pigment, color, in it. Acrylic paints are composed of water, pigment (ground or liquid) and acrylic binder.
Retarded/extender, matte medium/glaze medium are both additives. You mix them with paint to change the properties of the paint. Don't go overboard with additives
Paint everything black -> Paint color everywhere but where you want lines -> color with black lines
Paint lines black -> paint everything else normal -> color with black lines, but easier since you aren't working over black
Paint everything normal -> use ink or thin paint to blackline -> color with black lines
One of those groups is attempting to improve
Privateer press has slotted 30mm round lip bases at least.
>Paint everything black -> Paint color everywhere but where you want lines -> color with black lines
>Paint lines black -> paint everything else normal -> color with black lines, but easier since you aren't working over black
>Paint everything normal -> use ink or thin paint to blackline -> color with black lines
Sure, 2 is also an option and you can paint the black lines when it is convenient, but unless there is a really appropiate place, don't try to paint the black lines afterwards or the result will be messy.
You do have a problem, because many of those lines are irregular, and that style requires everything to be perfectly clean. It can look ok that way, but with perfectly clean and smooth lines it will look great
Jesus fucking christ, just apply ink to the recesses and wipe the edge clean with a damp brush. If you can't get clean lines like this then you can't get clean lines the other way around either.
I've built my own flamethrower for Bolt Action with bits I had left over.
Nah, Porting Ratmen to the 40K universe don't play warhammer but their troops look do-able in the 40k universe.
I'd refine a few things and probaly redesign most of them from the ground up which requires me to get 3d scans but its completely do-able.
Tried to fix it one last time. this is how far I can paint stuff.