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Old Thread >>43450436
It didn't even look that bad. Imo Orange Ork Anon could have just chalked it up to Orks being Orks about their orky graffiti.
Reposting (finally) finished bret lord for feedback/thoughts
I need the help of the WIP general.
I had finished modeling and priming this slightly custom Coldstar, and I'm in a bind paint wise.
I figuratively can not decide on how I want to paint it. My armies normal colors are earthy brown/black/green (you can barely tell it's been painted, and that was the whole point) or painting it up like a gundam (Char's custom or the Tallgeese)
I really enjoyed working on it, but a small part of me feels that painting a coldstar with this much movement in a dark almost invisible paint scheme seems criminal
I'm poor, but I like 40k, so I bought one of those 3-marine packs, since it was cheaper, now, I've never painted anything before, but I don't want them to look like shit, how should I start?
and finished unit
>but I don't want them to look like shit, how should I start?
Paint them, then paint 30 more guys, then throw the first guys in paint stripping bath (eg: Simple Green) and paint them again.
>so I bought one of those 3-marine packs, since it was cheaper,
If you do the math they are not really cheaper at all.
A good way to get cheap marines is to buy the ones form the starter kits on ebay. Marines are popular as fuck so you might have to try a few times to get them cheap.
First thing you do is clean the mold lines and clean them with detergent. Mold release can make paint chip off easily so you want that washed off.
Then as the other anon mentioned think about how you want to paint them, get the paint and an appropriate primer (you can get colored ones from Army Painter) and paint them.
Don't be discouraged when the first few don't end up looking like 'Eavy Metal minis, you'll get with practice.
I know they aren't relatively cheaper, but I'd rather pay $10 than $40.
ok, I've already cleaned the mold lines, I'll clean them, I guess that explains why that first layer I applied peeled off so easily.
I'll get a primer once I've got some free time.
and, I haven't decided what color scheme i'll give them.
fluff-wise, my favorite chapter is the Black Templars, however I think black color schemes don't look that good, it seems to opaque many details, what chapter do you think has a cool, and easy to paint color scheme?
smurfs or white scares
next one i'll probably do this quality is this mini
My Thousand Sons Sorcerer (Lord) early WIP. Basically the blue metal armour is done at this paint. Now to fix up the silver trim in order to make it gold.
Wait wait wait...
what the fuck
I'm also just getting back into 40k since the early 2000's and marines back in that time were actually posable, didn't have snap on bolters, and looked a fuck load better.
Those look like the 90s edition marines.
Wtf is going on?
Thank you, they are meant to be decadent and vain. There are two cultists to each thousand son in order to continually polish their armour, even in battle, even while being killed. They are enthralled to do so with sorcery.
I do a base coat of bright silver (I actually use a Krylon silver spray which worked out really well). Then I do about 3 coats of Asurmen Blue, but I dilute it slightly with GWs matte medium. I do about 5 drops blue to 8 drops medium.
I will do the same to get the gold I like, but using the sepia wash.
Then I will edge highlight with mithiril silver for both (but primarily the gold).
Gimme a minute and I will take a picture of my squad of WIP Thousand Sons that are a bit further along than the Sorcerer and have some most of the gold done (although they need to be touched up).
Been working on my dreamfordge models, setting them up to be used in 40k as deathwatch forgeworld dreads. I need to do some highlights on this one the other only had the base black and greys done.
Here is the current state of my first Thousand Sons squad. The robes and tabards will be a deep purple to crimson red, their eyes will be a glowing green and the crook on the Aspiring Sorcerer will be a dark green marble.
And might as well share the heads that will be on the second squad.
The remaining 8 Rubrics will have the traditional heads and I have a further 4 of the original pewter TS models.
Remove mold lines, clean model, drill bolter barrels, pick official tried and true color scheme, look up tutorial on that color scheme, buy each and every paint for that color scheme, have a variety of brushes including possibly 18/0 brush, thin your paints and paint, make sure to have sufficient drying time before and during washes, strip and repaint as necessary, and nice get.
The gold will get another wash or two of the Gryphonne Sepia. So far it is only 1 layer over the pure silver and a light dry brushing of Rune Fang Steel. After the additional washes I will edge highlight with Runefang Steel.
And thank you very much! It was an experiment that I am very pleased with. I wasn't so sure after the first wash of blue, but the second and then third really convinced me. Especially after layinng down some gold it really came together.
Now the details with accent colours will hopefully make it all work.
So, I think I need to stay away from eBay...
I don't even collect chaos
Here's a tip for you, thread.
Use two jars of water: you dip your brush to jar 1 first to get rid of most of the pigment. Then you finish rinsing your brush in the far cleaner water of jar 2.
I did that from the get go, without even thinking about it. All I could think was "you thin with the same solid black water you rinse your brushes with?"
These same people will have a separate water cup for metallics, but won't have a cup for clean water. It's actually better to have one clean cup for second rinses and one shared cup for both metallics and non-metallics than it is to have a separate metallic cup but no clean water cup.
If you're still here, got a pic of something painted from the rest of your army? Would help. Anyway, how about light grey/blue, with maybe green as a colour that ties it together with the rest of your army? (This is why a pic would help, to see what your spot colour is.) Basically give the thing sky camo rather than mud camo.
Since you are new:
>so I bought one of those 3-marine packs, since it was cheaper
Your first mistake. These 3 marines cost $10 while a tactical squad of 10 would cost 40. In Theory you saved a few cent per marine, but in reality the tactical squad is a multi pose kit while your marines are boring monopose.
Besides that, if you have to look after your money, get your GW stuff from ebay. Check for "Dark Vengeance". Its the current starter box and it includes monopose miniatures as well, but those are a little bit better in terms of sculpts and variety. They also tend to be extremely cheap on ebay. You can get marines for $1/each if you get lucky.
If you are US based, check out these links:
You get the idea.
>I've never painted anything before
Do you have paint and brushes already?
If not, think about the chapter for your marines and try to find out what colors you need for it (ask here if you need help).
what model is this, and your lord anon? ive been watching your lord last few days, never cared much about brets, but seeing that lord kinda makes me want a bunch of old timey knights
Post something you've painted, it's easier to give advice.
that's insanely good, congrats
choosing colors, adding details and making my figures less plain, I think? I'll link what I've done in a bit
I'm downloading that video but it's going to take anywhere from 10 hours to 9 weeks according to deluge.
it's the first miniature I've ever even begun to paint. Had some issues getting imgur set up.
Under which light should a model's color scheme be judged?
The soft, yellowy mood lighting of most people's home lighting? The harsh brightness of an up close desk lamp? The natural purity of indirect sunlight?
This is an image board, you can upload an image to attach to your post, no need to use imgur.
First of all, did you prime the mini with a spray primer or a brush-on primer? I can see areas of metal without any paint on it.
Your blue isn't "within the lines" so to speak, so your brush control is pretty bad. If your hands are shaking you can put your elbows against the table and brace the bases of your palms against each other. Make sure you don't have too much paint on the brush and you use an appropriately sized brush.
The paintcoat on your sword isn't solid, but it looks like you're at least thinning your paints. You should apply multiple thin layers of paint to achieve an opaque and smooth color. You seem to be using reaper paints, those don't need to be thinned down a lot, 50-50 paint and water max.
Most tournament areas probably use fluorescent lights, but for painting competitions it's probably diffused white light because that's what proper lightboxes and studio lights produce.
I got it with some formula p3 black primer, there's absolutely no metal visible regardless of what it may look like, I havn't even begun to paint the sword reallyI changed my mind about what I wanted to do after putting on 1 or 2 thin coats
and yeah my brush control is really bad, I'll try what you said, though I'm not sure what you mean by within the lines
the sword is getting a metal sheen with orange highlights on the runic engraving things and idk what to do for the handle, or the belt, but I'm thinking some kind of neon orange thing for sort of LED lights on bits of the armor and the 'helmet visor' or whatever the thing is
I think in your case, preshading would be a good idea to bring out the panels better. Get some brown wash, mix it with some black wash, then add a small drop of water and slather it all over. Work it into the recesses and let it dry, then look at your paneling again.
This guy is metal anyway right? If it doesn't turn out well you can always strip him afterwards and try again.
In that case, I'd say throw some cheap black ink on him, take a picture and dunk him in acetone and then talk to us at every step for advice.
I keep a glass jar around with the stuff, it rips off paint in about 4 seconds. It's great! Wear gloves though, it's not good for you.
Sweet 8 pound, 6 ounce newborn infant Jesus.
This is Infinity, right? That fucker's metal? Because honestly, you've fucked up pretty hard if you started black and built up to white. You absolutely caked over all that fun detail, and the mini's gonna be a bitch and a half to paint.
Prime white or grey for light models, anon. Honestly, only prime black if your scheme is going to be mostly a very dark, saturated color.
I'd say plonk the guy in some simple green and start from square one. It sounds shitty, I know, but you gotta have the basics down first.
He wants you to strip the paint off the mini and start over. Acetone completely destroys paint and plastic miniatures, so it can be used to remove paint from metal miniatures.
Washing (liberally applying a well flowing layer of paint on top of an area, or in this case the entire miniature) would make it easier to see what you've done with the miniature.
You should start by watching the videos from the torrent, it explains a lot of stuff, including terminology.
The ink is so you can take a clear picture of the panels so you know where not to get paint. You should always work your way up, starting with the deepest recesses and ending with the protruding parts of the model.
from gamezone miniatures in spain, the one i've painted is knight errant hero, one with lance is grail knight hero. They do nice models for basically entire bret range, as well as models for other factions also
Dude don't do this to your first painted miniature, you'll want to keep it as a memento. Keep painting it until you're done. Then get some grey spray primer and start working on a new one.
this seems legit gray has been recommended before and black was distinctly not recommended, of course I got black before I heard any of this cest la vie
time to order grey primer and do productive things :)
Well, that's where shes supposed to be gameplay wise so that's where I've put her.. She probably would get overshadowed by the BSB in front rank anyways.
Thanks, and yeah I'm a little scared to try pupils on her eyes cause I'm 99% sure I'll give her crazy eyes
hes right, pic related, my first painted miniature lol. disasterpiece from when I was like 7. helps to show how much you've improved
Start of a krieger vanquisher. Took a lot of masking and re-masking. Wouldnt want to do this for a whole army.
Your brain has this weird mechanism when it comes to recognizing and identifying individual parts. Like a foreign language, it sounds like gibberish. Once you learn a few words and their meanings, you can make out just those words inside of the gibberish. The same goes for detail. Once you know where it is, you can more easily keep track of what to paint in which order.
In my brain, I have the the details stored of thousands of miniatures. It really helps me get the most out of my models.
Looks badass, but I think the reds could do with a little more depth, and the colours on the shield look a little bland, especially when put next to that badass knight.
"judged" may have been a poor choice of words.
I'm trying to personally decide between a couple of variations of a color scheme, but some of them look too dark in low light and just right in bright light, while others look just right in low light and too bright in bright light. It's driving me insane.
I am the warpgazer, the changer of ways. Look upon me and rejoice, for esoteric knowledge will flow into your brain like a landslide through a mexican village. Sanity if for the weak.
>It's a WW1 camo thing
WW2 as well. (pic only partially related)
Mmm m this guy is finally selling his word bearers, out of my price range though. Really makes me want to get some word bearers too.
>tfw it's too humid to prime, even in the mornings
>tfw got a carnosaur for hella cheap from a friend of a friend
God dammit Al Gore why are you doing this to me
Vallejo ghost grey 200ml, get it. I live in the netherlands, the weather is always shit for priming. Grab a large drybrush, go to town on that badboy. Might take 2 coats but gitterdun y'know.
Good morning WIP! Its my birthday! Should i paint my Breachers, or my Pathfinders on this humid ass day? Also had a question. Anyone had luck replacing Ghostkeel heads? I want to go all itty bitty dome like the rest of the suits
ikr, this army is semi-famous for winning painting competitions in the netherlands so I figured I'd share it here in case someone wants it. Like that crazy guy with the gold bars or KD "I'm RIIIIICH and like porn models" anon.
Don't worry man, the nozzle on the bottle is a bit annoying and you have to shake it before use but it goes on smoother than a baby's ass skin. It's pretty much all I use. After priming some 50 models with it, the bottle is still almost full.
Sounds good. Got some work done on the turret yesterday. Just gotta touch up.
>tfw in canada
>days are 20
>sun sets and it drops to 10
>have to prime outside and bring models in before they start to dry
At least the weather is being nice to me I guess, soon it'll be no prime time
Seriously, a bottle is like 12 dollars so just trying it out isn't going to kill you. Buypainted on youtube uses this. Many professional studies use it. It goes on fine with a brush. Just get it, because let's be honest, who really works on more than 3 models at a time anyway.
I have hundreds of primed models but that somehow doesn't stop my brain from wanting to paint things I still have to strip in the middle of winter. I'm probably going to start on my gretchin horde next, just so I can brag about how many models I've finished this year haha
seriously I have done like 8 models so far, gotta pick up the pace
They should be under white light, not warm, not day.
Because game stores use white tubes so your models will be fielded under white tubes.
If you have a lit display cabinet then it should be judged under that.
The orange glow of day light bulbs will tint any colour scheme. We must stick to the pure glow of flourescent white bulbs. Sterile and devoid of humanity.
Personal taste? I'd hit the boils with a light yellowy green glaze because they look very much like the skin now. Other than that it's 9/10 fucking disgusting, well done.
Oh and in addition to that, these also exist in TL form. Russia has been using them for decades as light therapy for kids in dark regions who don't get enough sunlight. The more you know.
Fellow Dutchie here. I've had good experience with "St Marc Express verfreiniger" which contains pine-oil, available at the "Boerenbond" or similar stores.
It'll get the paint off without damaging anything, it is however, fairly slow. It's quite comparable to Pinesol, which a lot of US people love for its stripping ability.
Blue power is great. I also have St Marc but blue power seems faster because of the high concentration of the stuff. For anything metal, go to kruidvat and pick up some nail polish remover. It will dissolve anything plastic in under 2 seconds so keep it away from everything you love.
I assume it is a cleaning agent of some kind. :)
Google isn't being helpful though.
The full spectrum daylight bulb I use gives of a really bright white light, it's a little on the cold side, so contains slightly more blue than daylight, but it works really well.
Did you just search "blue power" and give up after the first result wasn't what you were looking for? Looks like it's an ear cleaning solution of some kind. That should help you figure it out.
interesting. I indeed did not search beyond a simple "blue power" search and seeing a lot of tractors. But that is irrelevant, as I was quite happy with St Marc Express.
And If what I'm seeing now is any indication, that's a pretty potent concoction... Isopropyl alcohol and boric acid are unpleasant, if potent solvents.
Isopropyl alcohol and boric acid sounds like a terrible idea...
It also makes me think of a hippy in a roach infested slum.... cleaning their bongs with the isopropyl and drying out roaches with the boric... takes a big rip... hmm what if I combine these two to clean my minis?
both as pure substances, yes... terrible idea. But this Blue Power stuff is a solution of the two, at more manageable levels, not as volatile.
Not that I can find much information, other than recipes for it, and no real sale information.
So winter is coming and i live in a apartment, how do you guys do priming your figures.
I don't have the space for a airbrush setup and brush on primers just don't look as good.
Would getting a box, cutting both of both sides and putting it in a open window work or would the cold fuck up the primmer, during the winter its probably -20 to -40 Celsius.
Image cause its useful.
Working on my backlog of minis, mostly Reaper Bones minis and WHFBG stuff, lots left to do
Posted here a while back and realized I forgot to tell a anon what specifics I meant.
I want to make space marine armor for Cosplay and want to know what a good starting point would be.
Any tips on removing the last parts of the sprue gates from resin models?
If I keep doing shit like this, I won't have a single unmodified bit left.
If you've got a saw, use that to get the majority off then sand it.
If not you can use your hobby knife to widdle it away, or you can sand the shit out of it.
Just make sure you're wearing a mask no matter which option you choose.
My Bloodthirster is slowly inching along. Getting closer and closer to completion. It's been taking me a longer time than I thought it would. Might have something to do with the wings being bigger than expected. Still need to do the base, but I just wanted to see what the skulls generally look like.
the color scheme washes out this already too cluttered mini. both the armor and a lot of the saddle cloth (and the shield) being blue makes it all very visually indistinct. Nice execution though
You CAN prime outside in the winter. However, you still have to monitor the HUMIDITY. You still want to be below 50%.
It is not IDEAL to prime in sub zero temperatures, but you can. I have done so in the minus range mentioned in Northern Ontario and Toronto Island.
What you want to do is be QUICK and prepared and have your models and paint exposed to the cold for as short a time as possible.
In side, set up some news paper and prepare your models on strips for batch spraying. Shake the can excessively. That is, shake it for more than 60 seconds. I do 15 seconds a hand, back and forth, counting the numbers slowly. Then quickly outside with one strip of models, spray, and back in with the models to dry.
Shake again and quickly out and in with the next strip. Rinse and repeat. Just don't have models outside getting COLD at any point in time.
Also, wear a mask.
I'm starting to think I should do some sort of summary pic about this, because it's the second time I see a similar discussion this week.
Anyway, you guys should check the CRI (Colour Rendering Index) and the Colour Temperature (in Kelvins). That's hwo to know you've got a good lightbulb or not.
I'm actually curious to know if those of you who got a daylight lightbulb do know of the CRI on those.
It's not on the bulbs themselves, it seems, but on the packaging, it's usually in the form of a 3 digits code, such as 827 (80% CRI, 2700K), 950 (90% CRI, 5000K), etc.
Furthermore, you can DIY an indoor spray booth that sucks it up and out a window. That's a bit more prep work, cost and storage space, but an option.
And finally, you can prep even further in advance and purchase the items you want to paint over the winter before hand and have a slew of models already and primed. Then just paint all these over the winter.
>I'm starting to think I should do some sort of summary pic about this, because it's the second time I see a similar discussion this week.
>Anyway, you guys should check the CRI (Colour Rendering Index) and the Colour Temperature (in Kelvins). That's hwo to know you've got a good lightbulb or not.
>I'm actually curious to know if those of you who got a daylight lightbulb do know of the CRI on those.
>It's not on the bulbs themselves, it seems, but on the packaging, it's usually in the form of a 3 digits code, such as 827 (80% CRI, 2700K), 950 (90% CRI, 5000K), etc.
92% CRI, 5200K on mine, no 3-digit code.
I rather love this particular bulb, the downside is that the manufacturer went bust years ago.
Haven't been able to find any in case this one breaks. It should last ~8000 hours or so, but it'll die eventually.
>The Color Rendering Index (CRI) is a scale from 0 to 100 percent indicating how accurate a "given" light source is at rendering color when compared to a "reference" light source.
Why don't I just post this link:
People can read it, or I can just give them the short and skinny.
You want a CFL (compact fluorescent - aka spiral) 5000K bulb with 80+ CRI. Lumens are dependant on one the size of room and how far the light source will be from the model. He says 7000-8000 Lumens for a medium room, but that is for a ROOM and for painting on a canvas. So, that's good for the room, but you want a lamp fairly close to your model, so I guess around 825 Lumens or so would do (13W). That's what mine are.
*** I also put a piece of cooking PARCHMENT PAPER over the lamp so as to defuse the light before it hits the model head on. Same as I do for taking pictures in my DIY light box.
>I'm starting to think I should do some sort of summary pic about this
In all fairness, a pic like this one >>43480203 for model photography would be awesome and pretty much needed. I hope some photo savy anon does this.
Great link, Anon! Thanks. That's the kind of stuff I was on about, so it's great to get a pro's opinion about it.
I still don't have a proper diffuser for the light, which is a pain because at 1200 lumens, it's bright as fuck, haha.
Yeah, that's why I'm thinking about it. I spent so much time reading up on this shit when I bought my lightbulb last time that I think it's a useful topic, both from a photography point of view and from a painting one too.
It's just I'm way too verbose for this sort of stuff though, haha.
Try out the parchment paper. CFLs don't get that hot, and parchment paper is meant for cooking anyway. I just used one layer, but you could maybe try two. Its cheap as fuck at your grocery store, dollar store, corner store, etc.
Yeah, like I said, mine are 825. Good for some confirmation though!
So, I think this would be a good bulb for a lamp:
you need to go to bulbs dot com and look for is a CFL that is 14W (60W equiv), 5000K, 82CRI. There is one there for 3 dollars. It's pretty easy to use their filtering system to narrow it down. 4chan won't keeps telling me I am spam for trying to link to it.
Sentinel cockpit - one and a half hour, will probably won't be seen once assembled, but whatever.
Good man. My Landraiders also are fully painted on the inside, some even with extras, wargear and one with a sitting, bareheaded terminator cleaning an energysword.
Nobody will ever see that.
What doed /tg/ think of my experimental "realistic" metals?
I am using the (now OOP iirc) Asurmen Blue wash. I have not tried their new equivalent shade nor their blue glaze. I do have the glaze though and have been tempted to try. I've never even used it yet.
That's not a bad thing.
I mean, I play Necromunda and getting genuine minis is way out my budget. Everything I have, barring the one plastic Orlock, is a kitbash of some kind. It also helps that simple melee weapons are pretty viable and common.
This should be enough to get you going:
Isn't this a bit outdated considering the advent of LED lighting.
I work under 6 3" led lights and there doesn't seem to be much that measures up to it.
>Do tell of your skills anon.
Little to speak of, the only conversion in that pic is replacing the axe head on the second dwarf's weapon with the IG flag. Otherwise that is just a Avatars of War figure and a Scibor figure as they were intended.
We would need more info.
Do you want to paint something specific; metal, skin, fur, scales?
Do you want them to be all practically the same or do you want variation in the model details and positioning?
Making armored glass and HUDs from Gundam transparent sprues
This is possibly the best Tauros setup I've seen to date. Those double wheels and the dozer make it look super sexy. Also kinda sleeker than other versions, I guess it's suspended lower. Those are Taurox wheels, right?
Ugh no. Everything about these are wrong. I used to work under lights like this. These are what I REPLACED.
Do yourself a favour and actually read that link I shared and then read the link you shared. Once you change youll realize you were using a 6" ruler instead of a 25 foot measuring tape for this "measuring up to" things you are inclined to do.
I'm a Warmahordes and Malifaux player, but there are a few 40k models like the Alpha Legion Contemptor Dread that I'd really like to get.
It's just a bit awkward justifying getting minis for other games though since there are models within the ranges I actually play that I both like and could use.
But how far should it be taken. I mean I can go into details about the functionality of your sensor but that's not really relevant.
If you're using a dslr you have additional options compared to a smartphone camera.
But it all just comes down to making sure your subject is in focus and WELL LIT, preferably against a solid background color while the camera and the subject are still. It's not rocket science.
I mean what am I supposed to make an image out of, how to prop your phone against a book with blu-tac, how to point your desk lamp at your miniature, and how to tap on the screen on top of the miniature so the camera focuses on it?
It comes down to a light box and lights, really. You can google how to make a light box and do it with a piece of bristle board, foam core, adhesive of some kind and parchment paper/an old white shirt if you're feeling fancy. Then do a little blurb on each relevant setting giving a suggestion on a setting and a little bit about composure. It doesn't need to be a full course in photography.
I'd make a mould for the detailed part out of oyumaru or something, then just use blue-tac or whatever to fill in the details I didn't want to case before I poured resin into it.
Obviously, that's just one way to do it. You could probably take a dremel or similar and really carefully take away plastic until you can easily sand it flat.
Cleaning mold lines is always going to be slow. If you go to fast you'll either remove too little of the mold lines because you rushed, or if you use more force, you may end up digging in to the model itself because you didn't go slower and with more strokes.
One way to add a little speed without compromising too much precision or effectiveness is to use a harder, sharper tool. Dental picks are already pretty hard I think. Stainless steel? But you can get a sharper edge. You can use a hobby knife, or a blunt tool that has a 90 degree corner.
Here is one of the guns, pre final runefang highlight. The others are done as well. As are the back packs.
>mfw you need to even mention step 1, like people are so fucking retarded they go "let's take a picture in front of my glaring monitor OH NO WHAT HAPPENED"
>mfw no white backdrop
Honestly think people should just be told to buy that $40 collapsible lighting booth and be done with it. Can't wait to see how people fuck up their photography on /tg/ even WITH a light booth.
inb4 that guy who takes a picture with half his face in the frame, but this time with a light booth
And the first layer of gold has been done on the Sorcerer Lord and his back pack.
>mfw no multiple lighting sources
>mfw no soft lighting filter
>mfw no color correction
>mfw no white balance
>mfw no greyscale detector
STOP RAPING MY EYES
By the way that BA looks really goo-
It caused some color issues for my cellphone camera so I had to add some minor color correction to the last image, that's why I didn't originally include it.
I'm not even done painting it, it's been sitting like that for a good few years now...
That was your face for no multiple light sources?
Here is a more appropriate picture of you.
And for no colour correction.
You have brought shame to your family name.
And something about detecting Grey?
Touch more progress on the Sentinel. Pilot is not glued in yet, when I'm done with the interior (as of yet, only the arms of him are need to be done), I'll assemble the whole thing, and cover the painted parts somehow, then basecoat the whole thing in black.
Pic related isn't for any game, currently waiting for snail mail to deliver it to me. It looks like a nice thing to paint, so I bought it.
Nothing wrong with that.
No no, wargaming is my not so secret secret hobby. I work out, have friends, lead a small department at a software company (I'm good friends with the owner huehue) and despite being super autistic as fuck, I actually do alright with the ladies too.
I'm basically a super neckbeard with 20 points in bluff.
I'm doing something similar but with Necrons, Guild Ball and Infinity miniatures myself.
The only thing I'll probably actually play with is the miniature I have on order for my D&D character.
Let me guess - Frostgrave, library scenario?
I saw someone making complete rows of books, but forgot the company's name...the Dicebag Lady sells them tho, so take a look at her webshop.
Oh yeah i didn't see they are 3000K,I do see some that are 5000k on 1000bulbs, I'll probably switch them out, thanks for the heads up.
I am a newb who wanted to get into malifaux by getting the 2 player starter box.
Wondering any tips I should know and traps to avoid.
Glue in image is loctite super glue precision which was a recommendation from a friend who used to build models.
Remove mold lines, don't fully assemble miniatures before painting if it would make it hard to paint some areas, test your spray primer on sprue before spraying minis.
I'd get plastic glue if you find the hobby engaging, it makes a far stronger bond than superglue.
Thank you, that's perfect. Spellcrow has the exact kind of objects I need and Thormarillion has cool shelves.
Nothing for frostgrave though, it's for basing my Thousand Sons and doing objective markers.