**READ THE GUIDE***
***READ THE GUIDE****
For those of you just joining us, please read this guide. Please read it before asking questions as there is a chance it has already been answered there.
For those unfamiliar, "Plamo" is a shortened form of "plastic model." If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here.
>"If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!"
***READ THE GUIDE***
And a handy guide to other types of plamo:
Some lineart: http://seesaawiki.jp/nuriesozai/lite/d/MenuBar1
Paint Matcher: http://scalemodeldb.com/paint
Old thread: >>5251008
Grunt Bash Group Build
It's time for a new group build, and damn simple one. All you need to do is combine a grunt design with a one off design, including named Gundams, Sazabi, Kampfer, and the like.
Due By: November 10th
As always, send it to (and post it here!): firstname.lastname@example.org
Gunpla/Plamo Secret Santa!
Sign ups run until December 4th. I'll try to have everyone paired up by December 6th.
Like last year, I'm going to have everyone fill out a Google form so I can collect the information easily.
Also, if you have some kits in your backlog that you are willing to part with feel free to email me a list and estimated values.
>tfw new kits arrived
>zaku 2 ortega with dat axe
what make first senpaitachi
also i'm getting a hi-nu ver ka in a couple weeks purple or royal blue for colour, gonna try get ice white for the white parts and then add some grey for part separations
>My second RG
So many pointless tiny little pieces.
So I just ordered the PG Unicorn LEDs.
And then preordered the PG Banshee's expansion set.
...I think I'm going to be making an expensive purchase soon. Never built a PG before, but I feel the time has come.
Bandai Hobby Release/Restock 2015-11:
Main Gunpla lines first, no offense to SD lovers but I'm dead tired and I'll be saying "Night!" to /gpg/ in a few minutes. I'll do the rest tomorrow.
Whatcha building folks.
Building the most based Jegan at the moment.
I have a feeling that painting the vent parts yellow and black is gonna give me hell though.
>The MId year campaign ended only a month ago
>The New year campaign starts in less than two weeks
Damn that's fast. And those HG sets look to be the worst set prizes this time. The IBO one only has 6 kits and half them are Graze, while the Origin one is he same amount and half zakus.
Meanwhile the RG set has ever RG outside of teh wing crammed into it, makes me wonder when they are going to start doing with it what they do with the MG sets and start only picking a few from the line for it.
Just finished snapping this guy together, I have a feeling it's going to be a bitch painting the little details on my kit too.
Just working on a GM custom. A little nervous as I just tend to build, apply stickers, and place on shelf. I'm actually going to try painting it and applying transfers, and all that fun stuff.
Im probably going to buy it fucking hell
Even though there are heaps of other MGs out there that I could be building
At least this one actually has several additions and changes to the design and isn't just added details on the original.
Just finished building these two and I plan on practicing painting on them. Any tips on how to paint the visors? I want to try avoiding using stickers but I don't know how to paint them to have the same effect as the stickers.
PG Banshee, been going slow on this one. Just snap-building until I get some touch-up paints for later on I hope.
Trying to hold out until I get the Armed Armor VN / BS Part Set, before I go for the LEDs myself.
Enjoy it, will be a bit of a long build for a first PG; but not a bad choice at all!
Hell if I know, I just stored them away in the box.
Poor hguc gyan. It's probably the worst of the hguc line in terms of engineering. The base body is like if they mashed 90s and 80s 1/144 engineering together and then gave it decent weapons rather than some of the innovations that other early hguc were trying out like the knee and elbow joints being seperate parts you didn't have to lock in place if you were seam welding.
>exposed polycap joint layout
I fucking hate that so much.
i have to pose his arms just right so his elbows don't stick out like a sore thumb. I'm new as fuck to gunpla and my oldest kit before him was the HGUC 79 gm and I fucking loved him to bits.
Gyan's feels so damn old by comparison, like he needs a lot of work to be presentable.
IIRC at that point in Origin the gundam had no core fighter (in origin the core fighter is just a glorified escape pod rather than a rarely used part swapping gimmick and even the GM has it).
I don't remember when it was actually added though. It was either at jaburo or later when they upgrade the gundam to pic related and add the magnetic coating.
So that when it raises the arm up to block the visor gap is by the face to look out of without needing to rotate anything.
Yeah I gave up on the cuffs and used stickers for them.
>Yeah I gave up on the cuffs and used stickers for them.
No. The -1 was a completely different color and had a visor. The rx-78 just has a swappable backpack in origin. The only inaccuracy is that the v-fin is white.
Why does everyone like Titan colors. All it reminds me of is gaudy edgylord teenager color pallete selection, like when you let them customize their armor and the first thing they do is dye it dark red and black.
AEUG colors has a nice off-white, and the Nu has solid use of white and dark color contrast. It only looks goofy in the RX-78-2 color scheme. Which unfortunately is what gets used constantly for flagship Gundams in most new series.
Gotta finish panel lining these bad boys.
What, no if anything that'll be the easiest part. Reverse washes are easy. I was more concerned about the little chest details and the lower leg thrusters
Sounds like you're thinking along the lines of the Guards type zulu. I'll personally stick with the standard and Zee Zulu for now.
Yes. It even says "RX 78-1" on its torso.
Pretty much. It's a little simpler than the tv series one though. Instead of a complicated fold up thing, its chunkier and just sits in the torso upside down. When it ejects it basically blows the bottome wection of the ms off and flies straight out of the bottom of the torso.
i'm going to japan in two weeks and I was going to take only 1 MG back (maybe 2 if I get a p-bandai from mandarake probably jesta cannon) and I was planning on getting Hi Nu ver Ka but this makes it a bit more difficult.
I got a set of the gundam planet nippers today.
Actually, super solid. I did some comparison cuts with my tamiya nippers.
The GP set has a nicer, smoother cut, noticable, but still stresses the plastic. It's not like those cut comparisons on their website where it's just a perfect smooth cut, those shots feel like bullshit, but definitely a better cut overall. I might order a second pair.
I'm taking some now.
I have a better camera for macro pics somewhere, trying to find that, in the mean time, here's this one.
One way cuts are more uniform. As you use your nippers the halves will misalign. It happens to all scissors and if you drop an expensive pair of scissors, like the kind that tailors use, you're fucked.
Go find some from actual in hand comparisons. The GP official cut shots are just as clean as those, doesn't mean that's actually how it cuts most of the time.
Need help. New to washing/drybrushing. What is the best ratio of paint/diluter for a wash, and can I use water to dilute instead of thinner?
Looking over my first kit and seeing all the room for improvement. I can't wait to get more kits and get good.
Thanks to the anon who posted about the $7 GMs. I'm going to have a small army soon.
It was pretty windy today, so I sprayed a bit close.
i want to make a custom of the "ferrari gundam", is this close enough?
Still starting on the wing binders shortly. With any luck I'll get them complete and at least have two with working LEDs.
So after looking around the house, there isn't really a good room where I can set up a booth and direct the air out of a window. What now? Could I just set up a spary booth in the garage?
Bruh, ducts and a folding table.
Just finished weathering a Graze, any thoughts?
Silly anon how do you even manage to break a v-fin with sandpaper?
You did try sanding it down, right? you wouldn't trust your knife with the job, surely
How much work does it take for Koto kits take to look decent?
Couldn't even try to make it look anything like the Manga
Was the Gundam's V-Fin white in the Origin by the time of Garma's death?
I hate how everything has to be fucking MG-ified and made bland as fuck. It's like the design team begrudgingly made this an Origin version
Just snapped my Diva Colours Adele that's been sitting in my backlog for years. I thought it could use a weapon with a bit more oomph so I gave it the rocket launcher from the old customize campaign parts.
Unfortunately, it can't hold it very well, even when braced against the shoulder, but using the gigantic shield hides this fact pretty decently.
Right now it's disassembled. Gonna work on seam welding in abit. Thinking of painting the blue parts a dark shade of red and some but not all of the white parts a dark shade of grey.
>"I have autism"
>N-no faggot, you have autism!"
>you wouldn't trust your knife with the job
not him but I wouldn't use nippers to cut such a small piece off an already small piece. filing and sanding will take more time, but you'd literally have to have hot dogs for fingers to fuck up
Suffer from "random black splotches" weathering.
Don'f do that. It doesn't look like burns or soot or anything other than sloppy black paint. Its the most common mistake I've seen beginners make when weathering.
Look up "chipping", "pigments", and "streaking" in relation to weathering plamo for some basic techniques. There is a wealth of guides and how to videos out there.
So before I give it an attempt tomorrow, has anyone here built the Metal Earth Guardian from Halo 5's limited edition?
How does it compare to High Grade shit and RG, since those are my only previous experiences in building from sheets, not counting Beyblades and B-Daman.
Yeah, it kinda has me down. I think I'll give it another shot with Aile Stike in the garage or something. It never comes out this bad when I'm just using normal paint. This is my first time topcoating.
No one does that and calls it TItans colours. If they do then they're fucking colourblind because it's clearly dark blue and not black.
And it's not just dark blue and red, there's prominent yellow parts too.
I take it Modelers-G is not accessible to anyone else? Tried on my PC and phone, brings up a login prompt but I don't have an actual account.
Metal earth stuff is different from plamo. You need to carefully cut each part out to avoid nubs, carefullh dhape each piece by correctly bending it, and once the model is complete it is a statue with no articulation unlike gunpla.
>That Barzam Head
I got the same third party kit, I know you suppose to use the support that came with the 3p for the refined head to mount the vulcan pod.
But for some reason I can't get the vulcan pod on to the normal Barzam head using the original RG kit's support which I think one suppose to (see image.)
Anyone know what I did wrong?
cant really tell you, too many variables to keep in mind; pigment density, thinner use, type of paint, colour differences etc etc
>can I use water to dilute instead of thinner
No. Water has surface tension.
a lot actually i have pic related and the amount of work that has to be put into making decent is a lot.some parts break when fitting in stuff polycaps dont stay in cementing is not needed but recommended seal of all the seam lines sanding to make edges look sharper and etc. sadly havent done any of those dont really have the time.
I might have gone overboard with the gundam marker...
adding a little bit of detergent to water to break its surface tension is ok, but remember, it inhibits the toughness of acrylic paint. You'd better be top coating that shit if you do use soap water
Question to you masters out there: Is vallejo matte varnish basically the same thing as matte top coat?
English isn't my native language and my google fu didn't help me to find the difference between the terms topcoat and varnish.
>Mirror Turntables go for around $30 -$40 on eBay
Are these just inflated prices, or are they really that expensive? I feel like these little display trinkets should be around the $10 range.
Yes, it's the vallejo topcoat. I've been using that stuff on my last few kits. It works pretty well. Just a few things to remember with it.
1-Shake the bottle really well before using as the flattening powder stuff likes to condense on the bottom if its been sitting around for a while.
2- Thin it with water. You may want to add a little retarder or flow aid as well if its drying out in the brush and clogging on you.
3- Its seriously Flat. Don't do more than like 2 coats or it starts to sort of fog up and white out the colors. And don't spray it on super heavily either or else it will run and dry into panels and grooves.
4- Give the parts a few days to cure before doing final assembly. While it can be picked up and handled a bit when its dry, it will scrape or scratch off until a few days have passed and it has fully bonded to the parts.
This is just a very quick mock-up I did. Shades are probably gonna be different, but I was thinking of mainly leaving the very front chestplate white and flanks of the torso white.
Haven't decided on a colour for the feet yet. Was going to go with red to make the look uniform but might also do a different shade of grey.
Just get a 6 or 7 dollar clear turntable off of deal extreme and put something on it.
Should hold up to anything other than a Big Zam.
So, out of the box Barbatos has no decals or anything like that for these areas, but they're obviously supposed to be pretty brightly colored. Would Gundam Markers work? Sorry if it's a dumb question, but I've been having trouble tracking down a solution that doesn't involve airbrushing.
I wouldn't mind giving it a shot, I just wondered about the markers because I've never used colored ones, and they seem like they'd be closer to the actual color because they're "Gundam Red" and "Gundam Yellow."
Let me know when they do a 6-days war.
>FedEx guy just dropped off my 1/100 Kampfer
>as I'm outside picking up the box, some basketball american in a truck gives me the dirtiest stare as he drives past
Fucking hate this neighborhood. No joke if the Chinese come and kill everyone else living here I would not shed a single tear.
>Tread carefully in these parts when asking for guidance
Fix'd it for you senpai. Might want to get your keyboard looked at too, it's randomly making capital letters where there ought not be any.
I've read the guide quite a bit, and have had great success because of it. I know how gundam markers work, but not how close they are to the actual plastic color in the particular situation I asked about.
Can anyone tell me what this 10-16 instruction means? This came up after the backpack instructions and after i assembled the while figure. Its my first build pls humor me
>no spray booth
>all that over spray and wasted paint
fine example he's leading
>There is no reason to waste money on a single action.
>except all the hundreds of reasons
Use both single and dual myself, and they both have their purposes. Anyone who says otherwise is parroting and probably has never built, much less painted, a kit in their life.
Are there any places in the US that can do plastic chroming? I want to give the Metal Garuda parts of my Musha Victroy a nice gold finish, like pic related.
I'm not the anon you replied to but I have been following this discussion pretty closely as it's something I might have to think about soon.
>>except all the hundreds of reasons
>and they both have their purposes
Could you please further elaborate on those reasons/purposes for me?
Asking advice, reposting from /m/:
>So I'm looking at the teeny tiny clear parts on my RG Astray Red Frame. It's the head lenses, all four of them.
>Now, I know a lot of gunpla modellers don't like to deal with clear parts and just paint over it, but I know that aircraft modellers actually do put up with clear parts and carefully mask in the frame around the "glass".
>It would be far, far easier to call it a day and use the dry transfer decals on them (whichever of the two sets) to color in the frame parts.
>I just tried masking over the topmost lenses to leave out the frame for priming and painting, but I couldn't get a clean enough cut with Tamiya tape.
>Is eyeballing it with Vallejo primer and cleaning up the spills my only resort? These clear parts are teeny tiny shit.
>See pic, it's what I intend to do.
Your thoughts on masking off such a tiny piece?
Not him but single actions are usually cheaper and a greater number of them have wider nozzle options. ex. the Paasche H is a great cheapo brush for laying down primer, base, and top coats.
You also get a more uniform spraying volume, which helps with larger surfaces. The dual actions are best suited for the more artistic stuff like doing shading or detailing medium or small sections. DESU, in general dual action is typically good enough up to MGs. A 0.5 or 0.6mm nozzle gives enough coverage to prime, top coat, or lay down base coats because gunpla has good parts separation. Still, for the people that are willing to spend a few extra bucks and want to shoot primer or top coats with an airbrush I'd recommend getting a Paasche H. This isn't a paid commercial, but buy it.
So fine-tip it with vallejo primer and then go in with color, huh?
I burnished the tape to the edges of the lens with a toothpick, but even a clean cut with the corners and edges this close to each other causes the fibers of the tape to show.
>unironically buying museum piece
Do you use a CRT monitor too?
Because they had based humikane to design the girls, and the sculptor was actually good. Was it apsy?
Anyway, that's a winning combination however you look at it, the only problem would be price and finding the right time to release it on the market.
納品予定日 - "Delivery date/Scheduled delivery date," so I'm guessing that's when the stores'll have them in stock and they'll start selling them about two days afterward, seeing as how the pdf release lists dates for the Graze Kai, Byakuren, and Hyakuri two days before what's shown on the IBO site's Gunpla section.
I'm guessing it wouldnt translate well into a model form. Besides, fumikane doesn't draw very meaty girls, so there's that.
anyone bought the red oni babe? how was her build?
>Where did I see that art style before
Fuck, he drew Bismarck didn't he; now I have to go out and make a custom FAG
Doesn't matter to me as long as I get the only things that matter.
All the Germans and Taihou. He's done many other things as well
I only have a dual action but feel a single would be better suited when laying down primer or top coats since you want to cover everything anyway.
Though I suppose touch up of said paint would be better suited for a DA.
The back? Most recommendation is silver or chrome.
Looks like they found a winner.
Well here's a normal Graze, just draw the rest anon
I don't have those. Do you mean to say "I should paint the opposite side of the clear lenses with silver?" The lenses are pretty thick. Maybe I should try a comparison of brightness with silver vs white.
>tfw there will never be a Stamen or GP-01 MG 2.0
why even bother guys how can i be a man of destiny
>how can i be a man of destiny
Sometimes you can't be the winner, so better let those thoughts return to oblivion.
A display stand to display your models in more dynamic poses that wouldn't be possible otherwise. They come in various sizes and colors (that you snap together) and can have a theme as well.
Seconding this, info on what goes down after sign up and matching would be helpful. We obviously get in contact with the person we are matched with by mail for the sake of if something is out of stock, explaining something to them, etc. [nospoilers]I mostly just want to talk to them so I can make friendships with anons ;_;[nospoilers]
>Burst into treats
How does that work? Is it some kind of special Gunpla technique only nips know?
More info about new FAG
>Frame Arms Girl Frame Architect
Oh hey the hair's different
I've never gotten one yet, mainly because I didn't particularly like what the gourai and stylet were based off of. I might pick up an Architect rather than a Materia now since this one actually has nicer hair/face
Oh boy, another one
>Frame Arms Girl Jinrai
I'm pretty sure it's supposed to be the Zenrai but the romaji got fucked up along the way
I heard we needed more FAGs
>Frame Arms Girl Fleswerk
putting this fucker together while watching some mobile suit gundam
im in for a good night
It's one of my first models since childhood, yeah. Gouf's my favorite design & it was like 3 bucks on mandy, a no brainer for me. In due time I wanna get one of the brighter colored custom ones.
>tfw I still haven't got around to priming this since my in-line water trap STILL HASN'T FUCKING COME AFTER BEING SHIPPED MIDWAY THROUGH SEPTEMBER
>don't want to ruin it without a water trap
>>don't want to ruin it without a water trap
Do you live underwater or something? I've been airbrushing for 2 years now, not a single fucking drop of water in the trap. Not one. And I live a few miles from a lake.
>mine splatters after going for a bit but i'm thinking thats just the cap filling up with paint
More likely the paint dries at the tip and plugs the hole which the air then bursts open and you get splatter. Reduce pressure or add more thinner and retarder.
alright thanks anon i'll try again when I get free time, fucking uni exams at the moment then I'm going to japan for a couple weeks so I have no time to airbrush
>didn't stop me from buying more kits
>backlog is growing and I still haven't finished the gouf I started in august
at least i'll be able to pick up some Zeon gundam decals as well as the Gouf ones since I hear they're actually in stock over there.
also going to get a hi nu gundam ver ka but fuck knows when i'd finish that project
Looking at those unpainted prototype pics makes me think that FAGs would look much much better with their bodies painted to look like they're wearing a shiny skintight body suit instead of bare skin.
This is the unicorn head stand, are these hard to find and can I only buy them with the HG unicorn special edition set?