**READ THE GUIDE***
***READ THE GUIDE****
For those of you just joining us, please read this guide. Please read it before asking questions as there is a chance it has already been answered there.
For those unfamiliar, "Plamo" is a shortened form of "plastic model." If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here.
>"If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!"
***READ THE GUIDE***
And a handy guide to other types of plamo:
Some lineart: http://seesaawiki.jp/nuriesozai/lite/d/MenuBar1
Paint Matcher: http://scalemodeldb.com/paint
Old thread: >>5259496
Grunt Bash Group Build
It's time for a new group build, and damn simple one. All you need to do is combine a grunt design with a one off design, including named Gundams, Sazabi, Kampfer, and the like.
Due By: November 10th
As always, send it to (and post it here!): firstname.lastname@example.org
Gunpla/Plamo Secret Santa!
Sign ups run until December 4th. I'll try to have everyone paired up by December 6th.
Like last year, I'm going to have everyone fill out a Google form so I can collect the information easily.
Also, if you have some kits in your backlog that you are willing to part with feel free to email me a list and estimated values.
Hey guys, This is the unicorn head stand, are these hard to find and can I only buy them with the HG unicorn special edition set?
snapfags like u fags could never build something like this.
Everyone is always welcome to post military or any other plastic models in this thread.
Shitposting is not welcome however.
>tfw my picture is used
I wish my camera quality was better in this case, but stark jegan is pretty cool anyway
Gonna get started on Banshee Norn now, and I definitely believe I am going to paint the chest and horn pieces gold with gundam marker. But I
also want to try those official gundam sprays too.
My hobby store literally got Unicorn and Destroy Mode HGs in stock last week, both featuring the head on the packaging, so I don't believe they are hard to find.
Basically my hobby store sells these at 12 dollars a can if I remember correctly, can any anons vouch on their quality? I remember some anons having criticisms with these.
>12 dollars a can
I can see why.
Is it taboo here to crosspost between here and the /m/ thread? I'm super new to gunpla in general, and I don't want to stir up any shit.
I just got a proper xacto knife to replace the razor blade I had been using, and stole some of my gf's emery boards... getting a bit better about de-nubbing, but now the seams are bothering me. Is seam welding something a non-painter can do without too much sanding touch up? I don't have room/access to paint materials for a proper job right now.
I just wanna say these threads are lack luster.
You guys don't talk about anything that's interesting, and you never answer any questions people have.
Even the Transformers threads are helpful regarding questions
Posted this in the /m/ thread but figured I might as well post it here. Only thing that needs to be done is painting up the other shoulder and the other spear (Making the two spears the Transient came with in fixed poses for stability, one closed one open).
The cape is a temp since I don't have an Iron up here and I don't know anyone in my dorm who does own one, so I can't make a good looking one with Stitch Witchery.
Posting military models here wouldn't be off topic though. This is the gunpla/plamo thread, not the gunpla only thread.
This one has a little star.
This one has a little car.
Say! What a lot
Of brushes there are.
Yes. Some are red. And some are blue.
Some are old. And some are new.
Some are sad.
And some are glad.
And some are very, very bad.
Why are they
Sad and glad and bad?
I do not know.
Go ask your dad.
Some are thin.
And some are fat.
The fat one has
A yellow hat.
From there to here, from here to there,
Here are some
Who like to run.
They run for fun
In the hot, hot sun.
Oh me! Oh my!
Oh me! Oh my!
What a lot
Of funny things go by.
Some have two feet
And some have four.
Some have six feet
And some have more.
Where do they come from? I can’t say.
But I bet they have come a long, long way.
We see them come.
We see them go.
Some are fast.
And some are slow.
Some are high
And some are low.
Not one of them
Is like another.
Don’t ask us why.
Go ask your mother.
Look at his bristles!
One, two, three…
How many bristles
Do I see?
One, two, three, four,
Five, six, seven,
Eight, nine, ten.
He has eleven!
This is something new.
I wish I had
It's been ages since I've fully hand painted a kit, but if I were to do so now, I'd grab a flat red sable appropriate to the scale (say 3/8"?) for the bulk of the work and a couple of smaller red sables (maybe a 1, 0, 5/0) for the details.
>brush - basic motor control + paint thinning + patience
>spray - Aerosols + layering + masking
>airbrush - Fine motor control + colour mixing
in that order. It's also the order of cheapest to most expensive to buy into.
>how good a certain model kit is
This is a stupid question and it's asked a million times per thread. How the fuck are we supposed to know what is "good" for you? Also, Google reviews.
>what's the height of a certain model kit
There is a site called dalong.net which is in the guide and which gives you height comparisons. There is only so many times people can repost pictures from it here for you.
tl;dr if you ask retarded shit nobody will talk to you and it's a good thing that you find this thread disagreeable. Your kind is not welcome here.
A bit back. I definitely remember asking about Kotobukiya's knight guy from the Zoids line
>How the fuck are we supposed to know what is "good" for you
What does this mean? If the model's good just tell me it's good and I as a result will think it's good. It ain't rocket science
I thought these threads were places of discussion? what's this recent trend of people saying to just use Google?
I'll bite on the google bit
What's the point of discussing shit that's readily available a google search away, not to mention its far less unreliable to expect everyone to have and extensively review a kit you wonder about, it should be common fucking sense that the first thing you do is search for reviews and look at a few. If there is a burning question that non of them answer THEN come to the thread and ask
"Fucking google" isn't a recent thing, its common sense and used to not plague discussion with shit that one could just fucking google
I mean, you have access to all these resources that are better, why throw a hissy fit when a 4chan thread won't spoonfeed you
>what's this recent trend of people saying to just use Google
Because Google has literally *all* the information and this thread is a small sliver of it?
Have you considered the fact that people here simply have no opinion about the kits you're asking about because they never owned them?
I don't think you realize how few people are actually here regularly.
>responding to obvious bait
Just build it anyways, not like there's anything on the line. Group builds are just to help inspire people to build something anyways.
That said after procrastinating and a setback I'm going to miss the deadline myself.
Since /m/ is a shithole right now, I am now asking you guys:
Where should I get started to mod 1/144 HG Red Astray's flight back to the Metal Build version? I was thinking of kitbashing Over Flag intakes with the chest pieces of the Astray to roughly approximate the MB version.
Not sure how I can mod wings. I can't think of any IRL aircraft wing that I can greeble up to get those pointy wings with wedges all over.
I plan to keep this kit simple, just do some panel lining & top coat it. But I've never used top coat before- Should I do the lining before or after it's application? I'd be using acrylic paint for the lines.
What kind of Aerosol paints would you recommend?
I got some Tamiya stuff, I'm pretty happy with them, but is 7 bucks an okay price for small cans like that?
Here's the shiki spook I promised, needs some fixing here and there but it's pretty much done
So I just looked at him again and apparently almost all the seam welds broke, did I upset Plamor or did I do something wrong?
How do you mask and finish up parts if the joints have to go in before you build up the arms?
Pic related, example. How do you make a clean assembly and disassembly of body parts if the joints are locked in like this? Do I file down the pegs that lock into the joint, or do I mask the joint and then assemble the arm, a little like what military modellers do with the visible internal sections of vehicles?
I love it. Anyways, it's common to just nip the pegs so that painted parts can assemble again easily, but because I have no idea which pegs you're referring and what they look like to I'd try another option like the masking that you suggested. Good luck and post pics when you're done.
Paint the joints first, mask them and then do whatever you need to do with the parts that fit around. Alternatively it could be easier to mod the pieces but it really depends on the kit and how the parts link up
>nipping the pegs
Take this RX-78 joint on a 1/144. The joint attaches to the forearms on two pegs, each side.
If I want to separate the parts for painting, I'm supposed to nip the pegs just enough to remove it in and out, and then later glue in the pegs with two-part epoxy?
POST THOSE FUCKING WIP
>Go to look for action bases on HLJ
>Find this instead when I search "action base"
>The only and proper HGUC that needs a revive get its revive
Have a fine handcrafted artisanal reaction macro
I own many of the early HGUC.
Relativity speaking, out of the first 10 hguc, Gyan is probably the worst following Gouf.
And even with Gouf, its only seriously flaw is the bad skirt.
Gyan has that and more.
Of all the revive released and announced, the only one I believe that is worth the second take effort is Gyan. Anything else is just Bandai way's jewing people and delaying going into late and unprofitable large ZZ suits and relatively unpopular F91/V series lines.
the fuck is that
if you want a computer fan specifically, there are ones that move about the same amount of air at like 13 dB
if you want a HVAC fan (that will last a hella lot longer) you can get ones that pull twice as much air at about the same dB
also consider what you are hooking it up to
some faggot was whining the other day how he can't get an adapter from a computer fan to a HVAC ducting
Use that. Make sure you buy a grounded plug adapter though.
Not perfect, but better than Monday's Ice Gundam. Damn Texas wind.
I really want to get one of the zaku f2000 rereleases, but it's already sold out on preorder on amiami, and hlj shows it as backordered..
If I order from HLJ, is it likely to be fulfilled once the release date rolls around?
Chris is best symphogear, why are you surprised?
The only thing surprising here is why she hasn't gotten a proper figure yet.
I picked up the RE Nightingale, and I'm prepping for assembly, but I'm noticing that it has stickers rather than waterslides. I've generally avoided using stickers as much as possible, but I'd really like to use them here.
Is there any way you guys know of that you can use these regular stickers, but blend in the border of the stickers on the model? Every time I've used them before they've always had that noticable transparen border and it always bugs me.
I love the Mk.II. So I figure my ultimate expression of love for it would be to get the PG. But I know it's an ancient kit by now (2001, IIRC). Has the engineering/articulation suffered for being so old? Is it a good and recommendable kit in general? I'm still just a student so dropping this much on a kit is a big deal for me, y'know? I wanna know if I'll be happy as hell or disappointed as shit.
So far loving constructing my Zaku ll at the moment.
Whats your best way to applying water decals, im trying not to fuck this one up.
Do not get the PG, anon. I bought one back in 2006 and the balance on the thing was terrible.
Quite frankly I feel all the PG models are just expensive ways of throwing out your money, stick to the MG 2.0
The Mk II is my favorite too! Definitely go for the MG 2.0 though, I don't think PG's are worth the cost. I built mine as one of my first MG's and I still love it.
I don't know why but I can't like the Titans dark color scheme. I like the Titans Test Team scheme just fine, though I guess TTT's color scheme is similar to MkII AEUG.
>i have no idea why they even considered the revive
Cause RG is a piece of shit in term of play?
I just finished the Mark 2 RG. While it is a huge improvement over the first RG, but overall it is still much weaker structurally compares to the old HGUC.
For its age, the old HGUC Mark 2 is excellent in term of overall style and proportion.
I for one still can't understand whole "tiny torso, long ass bottom half" general style for the RG line.
Think i might get the option parts for that fuck huge rifle
Gundam marker pink, cleaned with rubbing alcohol to wipe away the access
So, how many of you own two or more of the same kit?
I'm about 90% done with the RG Exia R3. I have to wait until warm weather to do my waterslide decals because I topcoat outdoors with a can.
Sorry for the shitty, shitty, phone pic. Playing with the models after a move.
Thanks, but I already know haha that's actually how I got the fourth GM. I ordered the first three for only around $18 from banzai hobby, they're giving out three of the last campaign weapon sets for each gunpla you buy, figured I could buy more GMs and play around with those weapon sets to give them some new equipment.
So, I see people all the time posting pictures of decently built models they claim they built in an afternoon, painted even.
How are they doing that?
i can spend hours on end just doing proper nub removal for a kit.
It usually takes me a day to build a kit depending on if it's HG/RG/MG (MG's take me about 2 if I don't do anything else) and if it's a full painted build then it takes me another day to get everything primed and painted if nothing bad happens. This is assuming I have absolutely no prior commitments and I just lock myself in my house and don't get distracted by fapping.
Don't masturbate when painting, it's not fun
Wrapped up my second kit last night. Never tried topcoating before but I'm tempted to make my first attempt on this one.
Beginner here from /tg/. No stranger to painting miniatures whatsoever, but never done gunpla. This is my first venture. Should I be priming then airbrushing? Or just mattcoating and airbrushing shading? Not to sure where to start.
Well I would like to loosely base it on the original mobile suit gundam from the 80's. It's the only one I've seen but I'm a big fan. However I am going to make some minor mods (pin sockets as mini thrusters, heatshrink tubing over parts of cable etc) and heavily weather most likely as that is my favourite part of wargame modelling.
Nice low key weathering. It's refreshing to see weathering done that isn't RUST AND SCRATCHES ERRRYWHERE DEY DUG IT OUT OF AN ABANDONED SCRAPYARD AND SENT IT TO FIGHT IN THE RUST WARS AND IT CAME BACK A CHANGED GUNPLA A RUSTY GUNPLA A GUNPLA BATHED IN RUST AND SOOT AND ALL CAPS.
Sorry. I really hate most weathering jobs. It's practically my trigger now.
I'll try to make a better base later. This'll have to do in the meantime.
As someone new to the hobby, admiring all you guys do, I really appreciate the compliment! I do like heavily weathered Gundams sometimes, but it's true, lots of people go overboard with it and/or do stuff that doesn't make sense.
No worries mate. People just sometimes forget less is more. They mean well though.
Anyways, that the regular Gouf, right? Not the Gouf Custom. If you don't mind me asking, how'd you make the mono-eye light up, or is that just camera trickery?
Yeah, to each their own, of course.
Word, it's the regular one. Gonna move on to that one some time down the line, though. The eye is just a little effect I did in SAI, so no glow in real life. I envy those who've mastered the LED additions.
i hate stickers in general so i tend to paint
what i didn't know was barbatos has alot of unpainted grey parts and i had to resort to vallejo paint for those, would have bought a grey marker had i knew
So a buddy of mine bought a Loto twin pack from a local shop. Being the kinda guy he is, he is going to split it with me. From what I seen/read it looks like a simple and fun kit, but it needs more DAKKA BAWS. Any suggestions in how to accomplish this?
OK, i was wondering how people storage the gunpla they are not displaying (like i have 20+ MG but i only have 5 on a shelve and 1 on my desk in an action base) the others go in special boxes i craft, where i can put the manual, weapons, extra parts, special stands (like Hi nu gundam) and it also help me to not lose parts. Pic realted is the box where i have my MG turn A and Turn X, turn A have the moonlight butterfly too.
Yes, and that kit is a redesign of the Hi-Nu.
The Ver Ka. is based on the original version from the 80s.
Lol. Cause we're all born fat or skinny right?
Jokes aside, anyone seen the Ver. KA painted up with the old HG colors?
It is a more purple color, this photo doesn't do it justice.
They are too hight...i plan to buy a big glass display so i can put up to 10 gunpla (also dust is the other reason) boxes are more a must have for me, i build a gunpla then i build the boxes, many of them have 2 gunplas like the wing kits can go easy inside one.
Anyone got any of the Racaseal kits? This Koto one's still in stock on amiami. Any good or should I hunt for the older ones instead? Some of the pictures make her look like she has distractingly chunky thighs.
Ok so I want to paint a Unicorn like the Phenex from that one G-Reco OVA; the thing is, in the actual animation, it's shown as much darker than the silver/gray they use in the HG model. If I were to try to make it closer to the almost black color in the show, would it make sense to use a clear black paint over the alclad chrome?
Lightning Gundam -> Titans
Build Burning Gundam -> Hyper Mode
Powered GM Cardigan -> ???
What is a good alternative color scheme? I'm thinking General Revil colors? Generally, the colors I'm looking for should denote a more "menacing" version than the original.
SAL, took two weeks.
Why do I bother with EMS and overpriced shipping costs.
Gonna go get some expensive for what they are tools and SAL the fuck out of it. Not like I'm in a hurry or anything.
ECOAS colors would look neat but...
White Dingo is pretty awesome too.
I feel that the Powered GM would be a little outdated by UC 0096.
White Dingo on the other hand is around UC 0079.
The Powered GM doesn't appear until around UC 0083, so lore wise, having a Powered GM around UC 0079 would be extremely powerful...
Both color schemes are great...but I think the White Dingo will contrast better with the other two colors.
Would the White Dingos somehow not survive up until 0083? I mean it'd be rather weird for an squadron of soldiers to be gone within 4 years. I mean if they all died off I could see it, but I could also see an homage team. Like the Feddie Black Tri Stars.
That said, those colors would be cool as fuck on the GM Cardigan.
I too like the light gray accents.
Will you be selling little skullfaces?
If you're welding the seams, you'll need to mask over the joints post-assembly.
If you don't care about the seams you'll have to cut the pegs halfway and at an angle, then glue the parts together after painting.
How did you get the visor cracked like that?
They probably got broken up, an impression I've gotten from the series is that after the OYW is that with the system in chaos they wanted to break up any possible power groups to prevent take overs and the like.
You have to consider that if you get enough soldiers together with a new feared tech and then they get pushed the wrong way they could rebel and you'll have a coup on your hands.
So you break em up and break up the bonds formed during the OYW so it's much harder. Probably one of the reasons Amuro was contained aside from being a newtype.
I'm still pretty new to doing any custom work on gunpla, but how would a Lightning Gundam with a Zeta head on it, minus the backpack (maybe wings or an anti-beam cloak like Crossbone Gundam) sound?
Gas isn't free, but its not like you can skimp on it either.
Ya gotta use it appropriately.
My fucking dick
Lightning is based on the Re-GZ, which is at least in the same timeline as the Titans. You could come up with some fanfic-tier lore for how the Titans somehow got ahold of a Zeta-type suit and developed it into the Lightning or something. A-Laws isn't even UC.
They're really good. The only Issue I have personally is that the shoulder balljoint seems to be too damn tight and moving it too wildly seems to be causing stress marks along the seam. I only built one of three and only the original one at that. Later models could've addressed that issue.
Missile pod replaces part of Gourai's shoulder (the gray unpainted bit), and yeah they are short missiles.
So 2chan is discussing super fumina and dumping a ton of pictures and ideas for improvement. Apparently snapped oob its horrifying and a mess of stickers, while with a little paint work its ~okay.
Because its made to work with the cardigan backpack it's swappable with a ton of other backpacks too.
We've known it was going to be tall for a while now. Its so it can reuse cardigan parts (specifically the runners that make up the powered arms hgbc set) while being proportional to the lineart.
>Heaight: 24.5 m
Oh bandai, you're so silly.
For anyone wondering, the weight thing is a joke from the show. Minato (its creator) is listing the kit and Fumina's qualities and Fumina stops him before he can describe the weights.
It was probably done to make the gunpla more compatible. The kit would be part of the hg line and the sd parts wouldn't be the right proportions or connections to use on it compared to cardigan.
Plus the winning and star winnings transformation and main gimmicks wouldn't really work on it.
I'll never get over how ugly those eyes are.
Has anyone just straight puttied the face solid and made their own? Seems like thats gonna be the only way to make it not creepy looking.
It would be fine as a first kit but you are likely to screw up and with the cost of MGs it makes more sense to cut your teeth on some cheap HGs to develop your skills.
Also I didn't answer your question fully, it looks great oob with some lining.
Wait, what's going on here? What are these white parts from?
Also I hate the kai for the fact that only the top half of the head moves to reveal the inner eye, which looks really fucking dumb compared to the original graze where the bottom half lowered instead.
Into the trash it goes. Also slightly higher price at 1200 yen, wonder what they're putting in.
The second one literally has the fattest ass, wtf is up with that design.
On a side note, someone please convince me to buy the Materia. I have no idea what to do with them oob.
>New gorai kit on the way or just some custom?
Neither. It's a Missile & Radome MSG.
See that thing at the bottom? It's a Frame Architect arm attachment, so you can attach any FA arm to it, not just Gorai's. The whole box replaces the shoulder assembly basically.
/m/s reaction has been hilarious. They've had several dozen posts whining about it in a couple of threads now.
They're compatible with 1/144 Gundam weapons and prolly much the backpacks as well.
>Has anyone just straight puttied the face solid and made their own?
You can headswap with BQ. The only legitimate use of this kit imo.
They have 3mm peg holes is why. A lot of hg parts use those.
I'm going to try sanding down the lips and chin and adding a little putty to them to see how that looks. They are way too prominant for an anime style face, especially compared to the lineart and in show appearance.
Why not acquire a fag instead?
Bunny baselard when?
dat fukken ankle articulation
Well, FAG is kinda a spiritual successor to the Shinki line in the first place, sooo...you've already gone pretty far by wanting to buy it. PS, putting clothes on a robot girl doll isn't as off-putting as you might think.
>Maybe I'll just make a mecha musume.
Get the Super Fumina then. You really can't straight plug gunpla limb on Shinki or FAGS - they're too beefy and long for 15cm girls, but they should work just fine with the larger Fumina.
In my experience, Partio's the only Shinki that can take Gunpla limbs OOTB, and that's only because her head is so comically oversized.
As much as I would like to, I feel like I'm crossing a dangerous line.
I mean, if you take a step back and look at yourself, you're literally a grown man playing dress-up with dolls. Said dolls are really cute and all, but I bet my parents would look at me funny if I started buying doll clothes.
Materia is not that good for dressing up because of that hardpoint on her back.
Best to wait for actual shinkis to come out next year.
>still leaving with parents
Dressing up dolls is a refined hobby for strong independent men.
>I mean, if you take a step back and look at yourself, you're literally a grown man playing dress-up with dolls.
I could understand that a kid would have issues with that, because kids are absolute cunts when it comes to policing each other, but as an adult? Why the fuck would you give two shits?
I was telling myself I'd ignore Super Fumina since I've got FAGs but now I'm not so sure..
Them stickers though, jesus, even if I paint it just hurts to see how bad they are
I have this 100cfm bathroom fan. Given the motor and wire layout, is there way for me to salvage this to make it good enough for a spray booth?
Encase it in a box. plus it into an extension cord, and let 'er rip.
RG Astray dude here from the previous threads.
Man I'm not happy with keeping the clear plastic of gundam eyes. They don't pop well enough by themselves, and in some cases, the chunk of clear plastic is so thick you can't make a back layer to make the eyes shine.
What do you guys think if I use white or silver on the surrounding black plastic sandwiching the clear piece? Would Vallejo fluorescent green help?
But thanks for some encouragement. I did the shield
Full armor unicorn ver ka? The only major bad thing I can think about it is the 90 degree knee bend. 90 degree or less is suffering, can't pose it at all.
Instead you have to find ways to have fun. Pic related