**READ THE GUIDE***
***READ THE GUIDE****
For those of you just joining us, please read this guide. Please read it before asking questions as there is a chance it has already been answered there.
For those unfamiliar, "Plamo" is a shortened form of "plastic model." If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here.
>"If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!"
***READ THE GUIDE***
And a handy guide to other types of plamo:
Some lineart: http://seesaawiki.jp/nuriesozai/lite/d/MenuBar1
Paint Matcher: http://scalemodeldb.com/paint
Old thread: >>5263640
Grunt Bash Group Build
It's time for a new group build, and damn simple one. All you need to do is combine a grunt design with a one off design, including named Gundams, Sazabi, Kampfer, and the like.
Due By: November 10th
As always, send it to (and post it here!): firstname.lastname@example.org
Gunpla/Plamo Secret Santa!
Sign ups run until December 4th. I'll try to have everyone paired up by December 6th.
Like last year, I'm going to have everyone fill out a Google form so I can collect the information easily.
Also, if you have some kits in your backlog that you are willing to part with feel free to email me a list and estimated values.
Oh my God.
>brush strokes with rough brush
>no color separation
>surface not primed properly
I can never look at my room again. Fuck you.
I even had stickers (wallpaper) on them a long time ago.
Wasn't there some anon a while back who got a 00 gundam as a gift and when he opened the box it was pre-built, covered in glitter, and tied up in a lewd pose?
>Buy one from a convention because I figured my preorder from amazon is never going to go through.
>It goes through and ships without me noticing that night
>Now have an unopened one sitting in my closet.
Maybe a lucky anon who wants one will get paired with me.
ahem, I finally completed my MG Gundam X, it is lovely
yes, I go over the marker lines with the pencil. this is because often, when I used topcoat over parts I panel lined with the marker, the black paint of the marker "bleed", making an absolute mess
the mechanical pencil prevents the above from happening
Good idea. Looks like a lot of people actually use gundam markers for panel lining. They've worked alright for me, but sometimes they leave an extra dark dot at where I started lining.
Is there lineart for the HMM Zoids or only for Gundam stuff?
I think I've come across a first world problem, guys. I just finished building the Star Winning and now I'm not sure what to build next.
A word to the wise: Don't end up like me. Control your backlogs.
I built a ZOIDS Mirage Fox.
He has a twist motor and stomps around all over my desk, very cute!
He comes with parts for two armor variations, I used the Shadow Fox style shoulders and the Mirage face.
The swords on his tail here can also be mounted on his back in place of the minigun. I like having both.
I just counted and I have 57 in my backlog. Need to really start on them chop chop or im gonna end up sleeping in the hallway.
Also, stupid, sexy OO Gundam
Went by my spreadsheet. This is the best picture I can do because fuck actually getting them all and stacking it, too lazy for that shit.
Mirage Fox is ZOIDS Original line. ~$20, has a motor.
Also, here is HMM Shadow Fox. ~$45 much more detailed and poseable, but no motor.
Never done a 1/144 but that seems too small.
Ye. They're more like gunpla but they come with pre-applied markings and lots of little painted details. They also come with waterslides and a nice display base.
>Everything needs a Revive!
>Gogg already has perfect proportions for what people want out of it.
Please leave him alone Bandai.
Really want a Big Zam but the model kits are lacking. Anyone know if this MSIA figure is worth the $150+?
A lot of them are metallic or clear, guess I feel they will be used more. And also because I don't mix color a lot so the cap is a good indicator of what I am getting.
sadly there aren't really official lineart for the zoids themselves that I know of. However the manuals for the HMM kits tend to have a lot of lineart of the weapons, parts, etc. just check out hobby search/1999. But I am sure those aren't the line arts you mean, you want something for color tests don't you?
The older kits did have side view and top views of the models that were drawings for the painting guides, while newer ones use pictures of a painted kit. You could try and covert those drawings into line arts with a good deal of work.
Finally there is TONS of fan made lineart I have seen, but your mileage will HEAVILY vary on those.
>my back hurts
>why do I even need all these weapons
>theres a big metal rod up my asshole
>I don't wanna unlock laplaces box
The way his head droops down he looks depressed lel.
He would look better standing on the table without the stand though, unless you can pose him, but apparently Unicorn is hard to pose
>mfw click the link
wow I had no idea we had a board like that
I'll fucking fight you m8
Live, from the Kennesaw, GA Hobbytown USA "National" Model Contest
the moon may not be out, but the sun is!
I freaking love this kit, the reflectors are super shiny
my first was supposed to be the gyan since being a normie and hearing BF was good decided to check it out and immediately ejaculated, but it got lost in the mail because shitty chink amazon sellers, so i decided to watch 0079 and got the revive tiny-head-holes-in-arms and an F2, since I heard it was the best HG zaku out
>tfw haven't posted here in years and I'm working on something that fits the theme of the group build.
>Zaku with Stark Jegan's shoulder missile pods.
I'm not happy with the translucent parts packaged. The mechanical detail on the inner frame doesn't show thru because of the thickness.
So I was thinking, to glue this acetate, do I either use that micro-sol clear, PVA glue, or is two part clear epoxy glue my best bet? I remember from the Finescale articles that aircraft modellers tend to use the first two for gluing the canopy.
Use small amounts brownish/red weathering on the knees, edges of the legs and feet.
Remember your sense of scale. It's not gonna look like it rolled around in dirt.
Wherever the contact points are for kneeling, chip/weather those.
As for the upper body just show fine amounts of Martian dust collecting in the recesses.
The Barbatos _is_ nano-laminated after all.
Pigment powders. Cheapest is to pick up a cheap pack of artist pastels (the dry chalk-like kind, but not actual chalk). Scrape the stick with the back of your knife onto a piece of paper or in a small cup or something and use the powder from doing this.
You can get them in a huge variety of colors including earth tones.
You can also buy things like MiG pigments.
Either a soft paint brush or makeup applicator. You may want to satin or flat coat first to give them a little something to grip to and then coat them again afterwards as they will come off easily otherwise. Look up guides on youtube if you want to see some tips and techniques for it on how armor plamo guys do it.
I was turned off from the models I saw in the stores when Wing was airing because I thought they'd be completely white and glue like other model kits.
A few years later gota HGUC RX-78-2 Gundam, was hooked after that.
>>trying to look 'artistic' by following the rule of thirds
follow the booster fuel tank, the unicorn takes up almost half of the image.
i don't understand why you would not make your gunpla strike such a boring pose while being suspended in the air by a base.
Finished snapping Lightning Z yesterday.Fun build, he's a pretty cool guy.
It's pretty badass. Adds a cool look, without the big wings he looks a bit bland.
Actually it's pretty awesome on the arms, too, and you can mount the other stuff to the wing's spots.
Picked up a Taishiji Dom SD on the cheap. I kinda like it. Think I can find a Ryofu Tallgeese for cheap?
Only place I can find him in stock for a decent price at the moment is hobbywave.
He's overpriced as hell everywhere else I look at the moment because there hasn't been a production run in a while and he's one of the more popular of the line.
Yes single edged nippers are better, but require softer and sharper edges (which means fast wearing). Single cut is more uniform than double cut because of the nature of scissors. Once the pivot starts to get loose it's done, toss it out. The two edges will never meet uniformly again. Ask anyone who works in the clothing industry.
Why are Sangokuden kits so rare? I've been looking for this one for a long time.
HG zaku II. It was amazing.
Then I got a more modern kit (rezel com) which was even better.
Yeah, Bandai rotates through their old catalogue every month. Even old kits from the 80s.
You could also try to search Asia-based sellers. The Sangokuden series was a big hit there and there's probably someone hoarding some excess stock somewhere.
I wish dom had better ankles, it's tough to pose him without toppling every where
Personally I always used an exacto knife to scrape off some dust. Never slice or cut though as obviously that will make way way too big of chunks, but the scraping works great. Every once in a while a tiny chunk will break off that is too big but easily ground down with the end of the knife handle.
My first was similar to >>5270281 Except it was both Wing and Deathscythe I recieved at the same time. I remember I was sick out of school for two days in a row, woke up from a fever induced nap to find the two kits sitting on a bed side table as a get well gift from my grandmother. Was so excited I had to put them together immediately despite still being sick. So many mistakes were made, had to take it apart later to put limbs face the right directions.
Waiting for this one to arrive. Is painting absolutely needed for this? I'm planning to just assemble, cement and top coat though I'm not sure about the flesh/face parts.
How do I tell if the pastels are ground up enough for use?
cosidering it is one of those ancient kits from the 90s and it is supposedly the first kit he put together, I must say as a kid he was not afraid to at least TRY to do crazy over the top paint jobs. And honestly while overall hideous, there are some actual nice elements here and there. like the gold on the wings looks decent enough.
Yes and no. Color sepwration is like hg kits. If you don't paint then you will be missing a few color details but it will look okay dependibg on your ocd. You will probably really want to apply the waterslides though.
This blog is pretty good for looking at old stuff. It's in moon, though.
Pic related. Not sure if it counts since it's not Gundam, but it was getting into these Rockman kits as a kid that helped me stumble upon Gundam later on as a teen.
To add to >>5271694 they give you waterslide decals for the eyes in case you want to repaint, but I guess you already knew this.
On a related note, is it possible to get a good flesh tone with spray cans? Looking at some reviews of Stylet I can see a lot of unsightly seams in the flesh parts and I was thinking of painting them (already planning on painting on armor details/white trims, at least).
What, you guys don't have painted boxes on your shelves? I thought everyone did that.
Growing up, all my parent's friends had painted boxes on shelves in their homes, and there were stores all over town that sold painted boxes for shelving.
Am I messing up or are dark colors like blue and grey hard to pre-shade? I go grey primer>black pre-shading>base color (in this case blue) and the blue shows no sign of the pre-shading. I'm guessing it's better to just use highlights in this case?
I made a gunpla, hopefully with the Thunderbolt anime they'll release more designs from it
You're right they should just quit making all RGs and HGs and just make MGs.
Sorry friend, first time posting on the gunpla threads
Need small bottles of black, white, and silver for detail painting. Guessing acrylic is best for working on pretty much anything? What brand has a metallic silver that's good for things like knives?
Alright, this is probably gonna be an unpopular as fuck opinion, but I kiiinda hate the look of the Hyaku Shiki 2.0. It's all legs, a Katoki nightmare cast in plastic. I hate the headsculpt too, it looks all squashed and weird. I also like the look of gold chrome way more than the gold coating they did on the 2.0.
Sooo....I'm thinking to go for the old MG HS. Do any of you own it, and how much pain am I in for? Is it a decent kit, or is it just gonna be awful?
Well, see, that's what I thought too, but this doesn't look all THAT bad to me. It can even kneel, according to dalong. What exactly is so terrible about the articulation in your opinion?
I really thought about it, I did. I'm as much a fan of modern articulation and engineering as anyone else. But I just can't get down with this, man. Look at how absurdly long and skinny those legs are. I don't think I'm much of a fan of where MS designs are going as of late (I suspect it's largely Katoki's fault/influence). The tiny torso, long legs, pinhead look just ain't for me. I like the sort chunky, weighty look Gundams used to have. You can see that style on older MGs.
I have some extra money lying around and I was bored, so I wanted to make some sort of armed RX-78
>Ez-Arms (for the backpack)
>Powered Arms (For the forearm gattlings)
Is there anything else I could/should add to this thing?
I'm currently building MGs around that time (did a ZZ and now a God Gundam that's within the same year), and while the articulation does look good from the side, I'd say your biggest worry is if it can spread its legs far enough because older kits usually just had a ball joint and single solid upper leg which make it hard if you have some poses you want to do. It also probably can't swing its shoulders forward. But hey, if you like the older look, go for it. That's all that really matters if you don't plan to mess with it a lot.
how to remove this kind of nubmarks
>HLJ Autumn sale
The time has come and so have I, thanks for the anons who told me to wait until a sale
I know, that's what prompted me to ask this in the first place. Even at this cheap price though, I just don't really like how it looks.
Sand. Though if you're not gonna topcoat, you'll need to do a lot of sanding moving up through the grits to get the sanded plastic looking the same as the rest of the piece again. So either live with it, topcoat the kit, or put in the work. Actually, tje lower right one looks a little indented...if that's the case, you might need to putty and paint it. Really depends how picky you are and how far you're willing to go.
Again, this really depends on how far you're willing to go, but...if you wanna do this on the cheap, you buy a few different colors of paint and mix your own custom color. The thing is though, paint dries a different color than it looks (generally darker). So you need to play this annoying game of mixing, painting a swatch, waiting until it dries, comparing, then going back to re-mix if it's not right.
Anyone know anything about the HG Dunbine renewal version, I can't find pics of the runners or anything.
For less than $10 I'm probably just gonna get it and see how it turns out.
Finish building Altron...took my old 1/100 HG Nataku out to compare (no dragon fangs put on since the peg broke on that).
Gundam markers makes me so lazy now.
Hobby Search has runner and manual pictures but it doesn't specify "renewal" or the release date
Seems to be it though, it is also labeled as restock which means they recently got new ones so it probably is renewal
Yea, I've found I can always count on them to have pictures of runners and manuals for any obscure or ancient kits you can't find info on otherwise, or just any kits in general, Dalong doesn't cover everything and no other site bothers to post content pictures from what I've seen
>he isn't buying chairs for his Gunpla to sit on
They pose all day for you, the least you could do is give them a break for less than a dollar
Or just do some wrestling poses
Your best option is using figinstock and typing in the japanese names of the suits you want as a search term.
I need to do this with G gundam, personally. You'd have to use sal unless you want to get fucked by shipping, though.
I fucked up the wording on that. The scale is off for the SAME suit. Yeah, across the board GW suits are smaller than other Gundams but this is the same MS from the same scale.
I'm hoping it's from perspective since the 1/100 HG is a little more up front than the MG one.
There's a store in Chinatown in SF near me that has a few of them for 7-8 bucks, iirc. Online, don't know.
Funny you mention these things, I'm collecting these as well. Waiting for the last one to come in the mail.
Do some spare parts/an HG first if you can, messing up is annoying to fix. No idea on the amount, sorry, but best thing you can do in any situation you are new to is practice first.